Tuesday, 17 June 2014

Searching for Giant Grasshoppers on an Empty Highway


Just earlier this night, in June 2014, my wife and I went on a wild, action-and-mystery-packed car ride. I was driving madly along the narrow, dark village roads around the peninsula of Bodrum, not going to any particular destination, but looking for specimens of Saga, a giant, arcane insect that I knew lived in these areas.


Driving slowly along an empty highway made it very easy to spot insects and other animals. This big, brown katydid, (Tettigonidae sp.) was one of my first discoveries.


This other, green katydid was unfortunately ran over by a passing car.


After an hour or so of driving, we beheld what I was searching for. Just before us stood a wingless, long-legged insect the size of a kitten. I hit the brakes, turned on the emergency stop lights and jumped out of the car. It was a giant bush cricket, the legendary Saga, a katydid so specialised for a predatory lifestyle that all of its legs bore saw-like teeth, like a praying mantis multiplied by three. This reddish-gray one was as big as my hand and very vicious - I could not take it up to the car with us.


A while later, we saw a second Saga. I managed to capture this comparatively docile specimen, and away we rode into our hotel. I actually wanted to drive an extra hour and visit Bodrum, get a table at a rock bar, and feed our newly-captured insect bits of meat while listening to rock music and drinking raki, but my wife was very tired, and I had exceeded my quota of insane acts for the night. 


Back at the hotel, I took some photographs of our guest. It was easily one of the most awe-inspiring insects I had seen. It moved in a wavering, dance-like motion, no doubt the reason behind one of its more badass common local names - the "spiked magician."


Here is a shot of the Saga, compared with my fingers.


Easily a "poor man's weta." Encouraged by the giant cricket's docile behaviour, I let it climb onto my arm.


The sensation of the Saga walking on the inside of my arm was a strange experience. Its giant, adhesive feet hurt my skin ever so lightly, like kisses from tiny girls who liked to bite. 


I also wanted to see her feed. I caught a normal-sized katydid from our hotel room balcony, and presented it to the Saga. Strangely, she was scared of the smaller creature, and did not attack it. I then set the smaller katydid free. Note the enormous size discrepancy between the two animals, which are actually related. The giant Saga is further interesting in completely lacking wings.


The morning after finishing this entry, I released the Saga into the wild. It considered myself lucky to see such a large insect. I now want to go on more night rides across the Bodrum peninsula. Who knows what other critters may be lurking out there?

UPDATE: I assumed this giant cricket was a member of the species, Saga pedo, but the commenter "Kurt" has kindly corrected me. He has pointed out that this beast was not a S. pedo, but a member of the closely-related species Saga natoliae, or Saga ephippigera, both of which also live in Anatolia.

The entire population of the species Saga pedo consists of parthenogenetic females, which give birth to their own clones. This specimen, on the other hand, was a male, as evidenced from its rear abdomen. Such giant locusts, if male, belong to the aforementioned cousin species, S. natoliae or S. ephippigera. Thanks for the correction Kurt!

Saturday, 14 June 2014

Real-Estate Opportunities for Compact Architecture in Istanbul's Üsküdar District

Istanbul, like many developing cities across the world, is the epicentre of a massive housing bubble  that has seen house and land prices jump beyond the reach of most people. The situation is particularly bad at the central parts of the city. Waves of gentrification have rendered “hip” neighbourhoods such as Cihangir, Galata, Karaköy and Moda unaffordable to their previous inhabitants.

Outside the city centre, numerous fancy housing developments have proliferated. These are aimed at middle-class office workers and their newly-found families. Many such projects lie far away from the city and, while remaining slightly more affordable than the centre, are likewise priced way above their real worth. Most often, their sterile exteriors conceal horribly utilitarian lifestyles in which no human being can discern a meaningful existence. They are dormitories for slaves, bound not by shackle and chain, but by mortgage, rent, car and school payments, and Sisypean “careers” that pay far less than their equivalents in the rest of the world.

 Broadly speaking, a young, well-educated person, living solely on his or her entry-level white-collar wage, has only two choices - either live in a squalid, overpriced apartment at the centre, or be resigned to live away from the city and waste hours of his or her life in traffic every day.


However, while jogging across the Asiatic shores of Istanbul around the borough of Üsküdar, I began to imagine an alternative scenario. Property prices in Üsküdar remain lower than their counterparts on the European side of the city. However, the area is strongly connected to the city centre, mostly by a network of very pleasant boat and ferry rides and a newly-opened underwater crossing (see map above, the red areas are the Üsküdar district.) The only reason Üsküdar’s property prices remain low is due to its conservative population and lack of well-built housing stock. 

Despite these shortcomings, Üsküdar is a very suitable location for a young professional to live in. Rents remain low and it only takes a brief boat ride to cross over to the European side. Life is affordable, and the streets feel far away from the noise and grind of big city life. Although the resident population is made up mostly of conservative immigrants from Anatolia, Üsküdar used to have a diverse, multi-ethnic population of Jews, Armenians and Greeks back in the Ottoman days. Neighbourhoods of Üsküdar still reflect this heritage in their architecture. While running through Üsküdar’s streets, I saw many small, quaint buildings, some left over from past non-Muslim inhabitants, and others built by recent immigrants in a more clumsy style. 

Here are some such buildings from Üsküdar's environs:

Greek house from the 19th century, İmrahor district, Üsküdar.
Colourful row of small immigrant houses, İmrahor district, Üsküdar.
Colorful house, İmrahor district, Üsküdar.
Colorful row of immigrant houses, İmrahor district, Üsküdar.
Greek or Armenian-built single block home, İmrahor district, Üsküdar.
Small modern apartment, possibly built in the 1950s-60s, İmrahor district, Üsküdar.
One-room immigrant house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
One-storey Greek house, Murat Reis district, Üsküdar.
Two-storey Greek or Armenian apartment, Zeynep Kamil district, Üsküdar.
Eclectic triangular two-storey apartment, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Old wooden house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Small three-storey Armenian or Greek shop, Sultantepe district, Üsküdar.
Beautiful Greek shop and house, Sultantepe district, Üsküdar.
Two-storey immigrant house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Two-storey Greek house, Zeynep Kamil district, Üsküdar.
One-storey Jewish house, Kuzguncuk district, Üsküdar.
Two-storey Armenian or Greek house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Two-storey house, Kuzguncuk district, Üsküdar.
Eclectic two-storey house, Kuzguncuk district, Üsküdar.
Set of two small houses, Kuzguncuk district, Üsküdar.
Strange corner apartment, Kuzguncuk district, Üsküdar.
Two-storey house with large balcony, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
1960's-style summer house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Ottoman-era wooden house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
This property was up for sale for nearly 150.000 dollars - a very small sum for a central-location house in Istanbul.
One-storey Greek house, İcadiye district, Üsküdar.
19th-century wooden house, İcadiye district, Üsküdar.
Ramshackle immigrant house, İcadiye district, Üsküdar.
Restored and refurbished house, Kuzguncuk district, Üsküdar.
Slanting house, Selamsız district, Üsküdar
House built against historical wall, Burhaniye district, Üsküdar. 
Real estate office built around old Greek store and house, Emniyet district, Üsküdar. 
Mosaic-covered immigrant building, Emniyet district, Üsküdar. 
Concrete building in the shape of an old Turkish mansion, up for sale, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar. 
Old Greek house with shop below, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Splendid old Greek house, built in 1913, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
Wooden Turkish or Greek house, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar. 
Old house with grandma, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar. 
Beautiful old Greek building, Bağlarbaşı district, Üsküdar.
I looked at all these houses, and thought of all the neat compact buildings made by inventive architects in developed countries. I came to believe that Üsküdar, (and other similar neighbourhoods in Istanbul,) had great potential for such further development.

Compact house in Tokyo, Japan.
Compact house with garden from London.
Compact home from Melbourne, Australia.
Compact house, built on top of three parking spaces, from Sydney, Australia.
After buying such land lots and buildings, one can restore them, or rebuild them as seen above in the examples from the rest of the world. The main point here would be to preserve (or build) each property as a single home, and avoid the temptation to turn them into ugly, multi-storey apartment blocks.

The target audience of such compact houses can be young, mostly single urban workers and expats with an inner-city lifestyle, who commute from their houses in Üsküdar to their jobs in the European shore of the city via boat. Similar buildings across the world have become very valuable investments and desirable properties to live in. If (and when) Istanbul’s real-estate bubble bursts, such houses will retain their desirability while the Kafkaesque housing projects outside the city will evaporate. 

 While the exact financial details of such a project need to be further worked out, I am confident that turning Üsküdar’s small houses into clean, well-designed compact houses can be a lucrative financial opportunity, and a chance to enrich Istanbul with some beautiful and exciting buildings.


Wednesday, 11 June 2014

Encounter With a Sea Hare (Aplysia dactylomela)


In May 2014, I turned thirty, during a brief-but-pleasant vacation to Cyprus with my family. On the first morning of my thirtieth year, I went for a swim in the seawater-flooded swimming pool of the hotel we were staying in. Little did I know that the pool held a pleasant birthday surprise for me - in the form of a giant sea slug known popularly as a sea hare, Aplysia dactylomela.


The sea hare looked like a cross between a slug, a hamster and a disembodied heart. It released a brilliant, purple dye when I first caught it - but I could not photograph that moment.


Here is the sea hare in its full view. It was distinctively patterned with large, black, circular spots. These identified it as an Aplysia dactylomela, the spotted sea hare.


Here is a close-up of the little critter's face. Its bushy-looking antennae do not support its eyes as in terrestrial slugs or snails. Instead, her eyes are located on the white, pimple-like protuberances between them.


I released the animal into the sea after taking a few photographs. The encounter with the sea hare impacted me with a strange bout of melancholia, no doubt related to quiet retrospection I was submitting my life to at my thirtieth birthday - an important, if purely imaginary, threshold in many people's lives.


My feelings were further aroused by the importance this pool, and this hotel had for me and my family. Decades ago, I took one of my first  seaside vacations at this hotel with my parents, grandparents and extended family. It was here that I bathed in the sea for the first time, mikvah-like, in the shallow section of the tide-pool. The years went by, my grandparents passed away one by one and death made its presence felt in my parents' generation as well.

More than a decade after my last visit, I was here with my parents and my wife - another generation facing the assault of time. The sea hare reminded me how life was full of unexpected surprises, people, opportunities and dreams - not to mention fear, mistakes and bouts of regret. I guessed everyone went through such tribulations, and everyone had to face them, one way or the other...

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