tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75687216068349792572024-03-22T00:35:49.866-07:00The Adventures of C. M. KosemenC. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-76748918598011259342020-01-23T00:49:00.000-08:002020-04-09T07:21:41.819-07:00New Website<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<img alt="C. M. Kosemen" src="http://cmkosemen.com/images/cmk_logo_decal.png" height="400" width="331" /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In 2019, I set up my new website, </span><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" style="font-size: x-large;">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">From now on, I will be using this blog less often, and will share my photographs on my website instead.</span></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-42530770908114260432019-04-15T07:43:00.004-07:002019-04-30T07:12:37.636-07:00Rescuing Old Cement Tiles in Istanbul<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS31EMpLkEygx0Vf2wxGnf-eK8JV1UhwPqCtx6DBCf4EHda3AHsCkGJ-jl91rFzN6ePWSMXvBF2xpXeyjnhv2DMP_OGISInSs6RhwbWX7BL_FCvKo99momvyV45Vwz_ZK7vKfKQc0Gqzqf/s1600/h01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS31EMpLkEygx0Vf2wxGnf-eK8JV1UhwPqCtx6DBCf4EHda3AHsCkGJ-jl91rFzN6ePWSMXvBF2xpXeyjnhv2DMP_OGISInSs6RhwbWX7BL_FCvKo99momvyV45Vwz_ZK7vKfKQc0Gqzqf/s640/h01.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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In March 2019, I explored this tiny land plot between two apartment blocks in Beşiktaş, Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiY5h0Az8puRWpnKN0vIGGLsAqArhqMH8-fBb89btzh46GX0pE_MwJWfOk3mWC0ubrvOxiyA59wySpinX2bL_1tvatBKLDh97_brl0im3QfI_CHMcQoejKvwh1fHRMMITnzSLYoAw4pKuK/s1600/h02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1157" data-original-width="1600" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiY5h0Az8puRWpnKN0vIGGLsAqArhqMH8-fBb89btzh46GX0pE_MwJWfOk3mWC0ubrvOxiyA59wySpinX2bL_1tvatBKLDh97_brl0im3QfI_CHMcQoejKvwh1fHRMMITnzSLYoAw4pKuK/s640/h02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This area was likely the site of an older structure during the 19th century. My suspicions were confirmed when I came across this brightly-coloured <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement_tile" target="_blank">old concrete tile</a> by the roots of a tree.</div>
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I dug out the tile. It was dazzling, and most likely dated to the last decade of the 19th century. Being familiar with Joel Canovas, the "<a href="https://www.instagram.com/i_rescue_tiles/" target="_blank">tile hunter</a>" of Barcelona, Spain and <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2018/jun/19/the-tile-hunter-of-barcelona-preserving-a-unique-form-of-local-art-in-pictures" target="_blank">his exploits</a>; I decided to rescue, restore and preserve this tile.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDNntvbUmbJQBy6-1SufnASU1A0wkqk0I3QIUqRYxbZjRoQA6-a_KOSLjJqhfNe9Pb29UtR7Rb3vejvCVYVbvAKybXAsgQ-cIgoQTczaYKzWcoseRcigVHcfiwHdcceXCHQd3tHMNBakRE/s1600/h04.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDNntvbUmbJQBy6-1SufnASU1A0wkqk0I3QIUqRYxbZjRoQA6-a_KOSLjJqhfNe9Pb29UtR7Rb3vejvCVYVbvAKybXAsgQ-cIgoQTczaYKzWcoseRcigVHcfiwHdcceXCHQd3tHMNBakRE/s640/h04.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I first took the tile to Mr. Selim Kan, a well-known knife-smith of Beşiktaş. Together we ground the surface of the tile and cleaned the rust that had accumulated over it in the intervening years.</div>
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Next, I took the tile to a picture framer, and set it in a deep, white, wooden frame.</div>
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I finally added a layer of varnish...</div>
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... and the century-old tile had found new life as an attractive tabletop ornament.</div>
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My eyes were now open to "tile hunting". A few days later, I rescued one of these eclectic, green-orange-and-white tiles from the cellar of an old building.</div>
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Once again I had it cleaned, polished and framed...</div>
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I also had this piece from an expedition in 2017, but I have yet to frame it...</div>
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The beauty and legacy of these vanishing tiles are sadly being overlooked in Istanbul. Many buildings, dating from the 1870s to the 1970s have them, but they are fast disappearing. I had photographed and archived them whenever possible since the mid-2000s... Below is a tiny selection from my files.</div>
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A complete photo-archive of such old concrete tiles; alongside numerous other urban details and thousands of legacy <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com/2014/01/sign-painting-in-turkey-from-archives.html" target="_blank">hand-painted signs</a>, can be found in my 2018 book, <i>The Disappearing City: Hand-painted Apartment Signs and Architectural Details from 20th-Century Istanbul. </i><br />
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You can buy this book on Amazon.com <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Disappearing-City-Hand-Painted-Apartment-Architectural/dp/605238039X/" target="_blank">here</a>. I admit it is an expensive book, so <a href="https://www.worldcat.org/title/disappearing-city-hand-painted-apartment-signs-and-architectural-details-from-istanbul/oclc/1049156348&referer=brief_results" target="_blank">here</a> is a link where you can see the libraries that possess it.<i><br /></i><br />
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-50677589468924720102018-11-01T07:15:00.004-07:002018-11-02T07:38:24.962-07:00Halloween in Beşiktaş, Istanbul<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">O</span>n the last day of October, 2018, I found myself in Istanbul's young and bustling Beşiktaş district. Walking around in its tangle of streets, I noticed many people in fancy costumes. Yes, it was <b>Halloween...</b></div>
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It occurred to me to photograph the Turkish Halloween revellers. I approached a group and asked if I could take pictures. To my surprise, they accepted, enthusiastically. Everyone wanted to be seen and appreciated that night.</div>
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I asked this band if there was a party close by. Turns out that there were two such occasions, one at a pub/concert hall named <b>If</b>, and the other at a rock-bar named <b>Dorock</b>.</div>
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I walked to the site of one such party; and was happily rewarded with the sight of numerous people in interesting, awkward or alluring costumes. Beşiktaş was a students' district, and many people had taken the excuse to break with the routine of everyday life...</div>
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There was a veritable street party around <b>If</b>, and the few other adjoining bars and clubs. All establishments opened out to a small square containing an unfortunately anus-shaped "monument", which I took the liberty of naming "<b>Marble Arse</b>".</div>
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I took up a mission for myself; to photograph everyone and anyone I saw in interesting clothes. I told everyone I was an "event photographer", and asked if they wanted their pictures taken. Many people enthusiastically accepted.</div>
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Two rough-looking "skull boys", taking advantage of Turkey's liberal street-drinking laws.</div>
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These guys had haphazardly applied some last-minute make-up.</div>
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A pirate, and Zorro, I presume?</div>
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Cookie monster, Pikachu and neon-wolf-man were some of the more meticulously-costumed partygoers.</div>
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These three girls were the companions of the colourful group above.</div>
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"Here honey, let me correct your make-up while you tacitly acknowledge my social supremacy."</div>
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A really cool couple with a cute paper spider.</div>
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These guys, members of the <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/istanbuljanissaries/" target="_blank">Istanbul Janissaries</a></b> football team, needed no fancy make-up to look awesome.</div>
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I met Murat, a soft-spoken dude in Joker makeup, while taking pictures. We struck up a neat conversation, and supported by common interests and a similar outlook at life, he played Virgil to my Dante that night. Murat later departed to join a party in one of the venues around the square.</div>
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This Syrian dude introduced me to his African friend through a Skype call.</div>
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These two "angels" later introduced me to their friends, and they all posed together...</div>
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These three dudes were hastily improvising some last-minute costumes. One had a simple party mask on. The other had worn his shirt backwards, while the last one had borrowed a pharmacist's white coat.</div>
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One of the genuinely creepy sights that night was this old man, silently watching the crowd from a rooftop while grinning by himself.</div>
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Another Turkish Joker with his girlfriend.</div>
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The guy in the background was having a hard time pretending not to be staring at this beautiful demoness.</div>
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Some people found the "Marble Arse" genuinely interesting, and started posing next to it.</div>
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I was surprised to learn that this group of beautiful girls were actually from Iraq.</div>
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In one of the nearby bars, there was a stand, in which people could get "last-minute party makeup" done for the equivalent of five US dollars. There was an enormous line by the make-up stand.</div>
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One of the coolest guys in the crowd was this Gen-X Beetlejuice. He was having dinner with his girlfriend.</div>
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Pumpkins were hard to come by in Turkey, but someone had gone through the effort...</div>
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Here is the only actual pumpkin jack-o-lantern in Beşiktaş that night...</div>
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Two more guys in white face-paint...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtttYJ70FILzDbLU5wbAUe7d3-0rrIqXHGRZB7wDGPtdXZK7KE_wm1wN8vwig281tbsUyokZoiAAqrBgVc-W2buxbVoY2uyAMxCSZuOTNW8FrCu7_y-o7nRZ8TqQN914TKbyz78XhISaKR/s1600/IMG_5176.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtttYJ70FILzDbLU5wbAUe7d3-0rrIqXHGRZB7wDGPtdXZK7KE_wm1wN8vwig281tbsUyokZoiAAqrBgVc-W2buxbVoY2uyAMxCSZuOTNW8FrCu7_y-o7nRZ8TqQN914TKbyz78XhISaKR/s640/IMG_5176.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and yet two more. These dudes were more "serious customers". </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW3DfrRA2BEBtRTxnpH8avLROPoCqeyEAypPhmNIc6Tj4qWCnUnoKrBrWX8kLp5QVZCG8_WO6_jm-bfa9XTCIlza_0yhnoWPw8py31JJQz8Pr2tCl5PccJieihkE02KcFjVPi-lV8NxLTO/s1600/IMG_5177.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="528" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW3DfrRA2BEBtRTxnpH8avLROPoCqeyEAypPhmNIc6Tj4qWCnUnoKrBrWX8kLp5QVZCG8_WO6_jm-bfa9XTCIlza_0yhnoWPw8py31JJQz8Pr2tCl5PccJieihkE02KcFjVPi-lV8NxLTO/s640/IMG_5177.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A tired-looking couple.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdRTACYZcuO4xvnOezChOO6jq6d_PwKFeKPDEN5AM7RcGZRRh0iJHzFJEm23Q87ccsMNPhny4pWTxyL4yK732JxQc22UMk1jzHvMdrQ91Rl63P9uoQ9wGhtQT8bfMDh9JBxVTNTDUEJ3b/s1600/IMG_5178.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdRTACYZcuO4xvnOezChOO6jq6d_PwKFeKPDEN5AM7RcGZRRh0iJHzFJEm23Q87ccsMNPhny4pWTxyL4yK732JxQc22UMk1jzHvMdrQ91Rl63P9uoQ9wGhtQT8bfMDh9JBxVTNTDUEJ3b/s640/IMG_5178.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Heath Ledger's Joker, Jared Leto's Joker, and a generic witch, sharing cups of wine on the street.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZA3vwUOq6PHUtrwHDaBXByLNhNL16gWe_UnjvOmdtchuaMPfF0MkqRC3SlIBJ44uOBi9WlRdiFprxqCqOdLm7Kkk3zjaY4JVGKo4lo8MY3XkWAIRDFH9WY8BdkhSjpw9jHWJHYJ_1YXz/s1600/IMG_5179.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZA3vwUOq6PHUtrwHDaBXByLNhNL16gWe_UnjvOmdtchuaMPfF0MkqRC3SlIBJ44uOBi9WlRdiFprxqCqOdLm7Kkk3zjaY4JVGKo4lo8MY3XkWAIRDFH9WY8BdkhSjpw9jHWJHYJ_1YXz/s640/IMG_5179.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This dude had incredibly realistic wounds, evidently the work of a professional make-up artist. He was accompanied by a beautiful Vampirella girlfriend, who did not want to be photographed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiJyXl1Ee0dXinD0pzHC_ZSLPxVnqC7xSisB6oQMolgrAxuKIcpgFBoZp-SQEtBD7FMxSsNcsgZlBqM5PyNebe4OEhZ1vSXXWmJSTDhS6epOwCHLE08SPGdNQT-DUj1Qeb0PpveDo7y-f/s1600/IMG_5180.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiJyXl1Ee0dXinD0pzHC_ZSLPxVnqC7xSisB6oQMolgrAxuKIcpgFBoZp-SQEtBD7FMxSsNcsgZlBqM5PyNebe4OEhZ1vSXXWmJSTDhS6epOwCHLE08SPGdNQT-DUj1Qeb0PpveDo7y-f/s640/IMG_5180.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Little Red Riding Hood and the Bad Wolf, I presume?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-BatJlj7_aN00NOKLAS2_g1QbcZfIB250TsfpH2qSyBChiztGb4Q1kRId-w8tIzLKZEJue7bIPSzll1xhFvdLSGcUnsQ2oduAoAAoKpHoFYjsotsJSJ9Zvyt3HY8ZMF8jeNduyzQTtvN/s1600/IMG_5185.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-BatJlj7_aN00NOKLAS2_g1QbcZfIB250TsfpH2qSyBChiztGb4Q1kRId-w8tIzLKZEJue7bIPSzll1xhFvdLSGcUnsQ2oduAoAAoKpHoFYjsotsJSJ9Zvyt3HY8ZMF8jeNduyzQTtvN/s640/IMG_5185.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Suddenly, an UBER van came rolling-in, and out stepped two elegantly-dressed couples; these guys...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVcl0jeSIazXiEe7GOjve08fNP7r1djRIqDj44Ubcrm9AOI_4yS5nAZqKhjaqIIR94sQ-4zskijiltMRvmYh1_tYlfV9BlKRm-jxnuA4Nl3gyPWaKWmLr7ZS8D53t8nSXKjlayF33D1-ft/s1600/IMG_5186.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVcl0jeSIazXiEe7GOjve08fNP7r1djRIqDj44Ubcrm9AOI_4yS5nAZqKhjaqIIR94sQ-4zskijiltMRvmYh1_tYlfV9BlKRm-jxnuA4Nl3gyPWaKWmLr7ZS8D53t8nSXKjlayF33D1-ft/s640/IMG_5186.JPG" width="630" /></a></div>
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...and these two... They had a very positive attitude about them. The guy was wearing the graduation robe of ODTU, a well-established Turkish university in Ankara. (Thanks to my friend <a href="https://www.instagram.com/everyday_ankara" target="_blank">Durmuş Bayram</a> for pointing this out.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsDzK5W7PX-q7r2W5995gDb-i6b4ysMxlZM3ivGTVTAixP5X2LPbxf_JucVKbpugbGBw73GsoMOt-x4SwYrDkjYzj2KhXBxJPUmihyu9RG7uH90DzFioi1aD7lUnqhS3qbEZMmf-l8O9H/s1600/IMG_5187.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsDzK5W7PX-q7r2W5995gDb-i6b4ysMxlZM3ivGTVTAixP5X2LPbxf_JucVKbpugbGBw73GsoMOt-x4SwYrDkjYzj2KhXBxJPUmihyu9RG7uH90DzFioi1aD7lUnqhS3qbEZMmf-l8O9H/s640/IMG_5187.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another cool group of friends.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7U9VAofV6azY-T0t0Ed8ZHdE2_j6l_JVWrolvB4LvKjvBivjhla8rM8FCvTD9pch5A9TuFlEEqyqdFK4FxtBTXgejPJSz-Yrb1ORwCxfE58tBY6_uuw7gL3yCl8BmQV8Uoluna7WTnS0k/s1600/IMG_5193.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7U9VAofV6azY-T0t0Ed8ZHdE2_j6l_JVWrolvB4LvKjvBivjhla8rM8FCvTD9pch5A9TuFlEEqyqdFK4FxtBTXgejPJSz-Yrb1ORwCxfE58tBY6_uuw7gL3yCl8BmQV8Uoluna7WTnS0k/s640/IMG_5193.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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These handsome dudes had spent considerable effort and a lot of money on their DIY costumes. I hoped there was a contest somewhere that night, and I hoped that they won...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidM25yHvXSJvzGkhpF_cRI9uNGYrE0SEXX1P0o5CfYAnx0n40lveuiGoKU7nh0kllZAqG485_yr6rtHKigLtv0f1GpuTbhZvGOL3QS31cwMG3SWMBagX9Z29RgDGCCbE3J1DbEKh-dMkRn/s1600/IMG_5196.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidM25yHvXSJvzGkhpF_cRI9uNGYrE0SEXX1P0o5CfYAnx0n40lveuiGoKU7nh0kllZAqG485_yr6rtHKigLtv0f1GpuTbhZvGOL3QS31cwMG3SWMBagX9Z29RgDGCCbE3J1DbEKh-dMkRn/s640/IMG_5196.JPG" width="616" /></a></div>
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These two extremely charming ladies had opted for a "Mexican day-of-the-dead" look...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9NHp5X31Z1sjM-sQghKFAO1VOgQYydOfQW959CGLAEQyiL581r67Cng3xVXyDMGsD1bPU2SH0FL4oMYtCFXtiyx0iFYKgxgRTV3uvtdI5gBxkGzNnsSiURLvELCwirG21OWe_3Ghy-Zp/s1600/IMG_5197.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9NHp5X31Z1sjM-sQghKFAO1VOgQYydOfQW959CGLAEQyiL581r67Cng3xVXyDMGsD1bPU2SH0FL4oMYtCFXtiyx0iFYKgxgRTV3uvtdI5gBxkGzNnsSiURLvELCwirG21OWe_3Ghy-Zp/s640/IMG_5197.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and they were accompanied by these two gentlemen.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0Riejauc1zKlA3Hmf8C01oqW7_D5lStd9Kz89BwtRveZqesL-2XyZs47qedHi5K-q3HtVH7hV8VqkYwrldKax9sa0NsJba1Ps9Khb2x9Eje03IukjyhyFsy3P-XloFNFE7G-YVgWTdxZ/s1600/IMG_5200.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0Riejauc1zKlA3Hmf8C01oqW7_D5lStd9Kz89BwtRveZqesL-2XyZs47qedHi5K-q3HtVH7hV8VqkYwrldKax9sa0NsJba1Ps9Khb2x9Eje03IukjyhyFsy3P-XloFNFE7G-YVgWTdxZ/s640/IMG_5200.JPG" width="438" /></a></div>
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Some sort of monk with his witchy girlfriend.</div>
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This guy, wearing a horrible mask that completely obscured his face, was, in my opinion, the most pants-shittingly-scary character of the night - second only to the "Old Man of the Rooftops" I had seen beforehand.</div>
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A dark version of Friar Tuck?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHBhAxg3vBa1fBYQ8achx9uDCyd7bqBmlx4D7XOCYX2ccEJ75xTpzG3w0DIU7OC6HqNOYH_V2qSs1UcjEWcnSDwnX7YCa5_YeG8V0ux3gvvVhV6cchyphenhyphenlXkQ1s0dJyarpzA-jb86QInNEj/s1600/IMG_5204.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHBhAxg3vBa1fBYQ8achx9uDCyd7bqBmlx4D7XOCYX2ccEJ75xTpzG3w0DIU7OC6HqNOYH_V2qSs1UcjEWcnSDwnX7YCa5_YeG8V0ux3gvvVhV6cchyphenhyphenlXkQ1s0dJyarpzA-jb86QInNEj/s640/IMG_5204.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This neat-looking demon-vampire couple stood out in their red capes.</div>
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I thought these two psychos had crafted a completely original look with their insane Salvador Dali masks and those fluorescent-red one-piece suits; but they were in fact dressed up as characters from Netflix' Casa de Papel. I was falling behind on my popular culture... </div>
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A nun and a monk with lots of Gothic makeup.</div>
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Unicorn and Generic Princess, apathetically glued to their smartphones.</div>
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This girl was wearing one of the few Far-East-themed costumes that night.</div>
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I really liked the cyberpunk / 90s rave attitude that radiated from this group.</div>
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The Joker strikes again!</div>
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These two guys, one in a genuinely-off-putting Scream mask, were having their own, private party on a nearby street. They had simply plopped down their drinks on the sidewalk and started drinking, smoking and chatting.</div>
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Another, slightly dejected-looking Joker, waiting for his friends by a water stall.</div>
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These two queer guys were really upset because one of the party venues had adopted a "no entrance without girlfriends" rule. They had already paid for their tickets, and were now not being let in...</div>
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They were later joined by this cross-dressing friend, also upset at the venue's sexist entrance policy.</div>
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In time, I wandered away from the party circuit... I felt really happy to have encountered all these people, and taken their photographs. But now it was time to head home...</div>
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...but not without some dinner first.</div>
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I made my way to <b><a href="https://www.zomato.com/istanbul/sinop-mant%C4%B1-be%C5%9Fikta%C5%9F-merkez-istanbul" target="_blank">Sinop Mantı</a></b>, that peerless establishment, and ordered a round of "the usual"; Turkish ravioli sprinkled with ground walnuts and soaked thoroughly with warm, molten butter.</div>
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What a great night it was! </div>
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Halloween is a relatively new tradition in Turkey, and is mostly adopted by young, educated people in the cities. It is, however, not without precedent. Until the mid-20th-century, Istanbul was home to the Greek <i>apokries </i>(<i>αποκριες</i>, <i>apukurya</i>) festival, a three-week period of festivities before the commencement of Orthodox lent. The then-many Greek residents would dress up in fancy costumes, and their districts would have an overall festive atmosphere.</div>
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<i>Apokries </i>disappeared from Istanbul with the departure of the city's Greek community. </div>
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But recently, another, independent folk tradition of creepy costume revelry has been resurrected in Turkey's Thracian provinces. Called <i>Bocuk</i>, this night is held around January, and involves people dressed up as ghosts and demons passing out a special kind of pumpkin dessert to passers-by.</div>
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In this, it has an unusual twist on the "trick-or-treat" of the Western Halloween tradition. <i>Bocuk </i>has been hailed as a "thousand-year-old Turkic tradition", and is probably rooted in pagan rituals in the distant past.</div>
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On a side note, I want to point out how any narrative featuring Halloween revelers (or punks, or heavy metal enthusiasts, basically anyone "different") set in Turkey inevitably leads to questions about youth, politics, and future. In more opportunistically-written articles, the specter of "oppression" is invoked; the straw men of "authoritarianism" and "nationalism" are inevitably trotted out and castigated; fingers are pointed, and the Journalist ends his or her piece with fateful words about "the Country's Future"... </div>
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What a load of pap. I find these approaches extremely stupid - if not downright nefarious. In Turkey, like everywhere else, everyday life is mostly divorced from politics or world opinion. I hope my snapshots of Istanbul in Halloween could give you a sense of ordinary - if frivolous - occurrences in this interesting part of the world.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-12415975993338875192018-06-12T01:31:00.001-07:002020-04-09T07:20:05.447-07:00At My Childhood Home in Ankara - Pictures from 1987 and 2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrEkw5AXpAPhC00z5k8FRnlCBak9Ppzxp8BPYXxn58ioC-BJVUFfsbSm7kSHrzGecGeXC4fbmm92qWgqTv4kqkBFxLTAy4uTH9ig_tASaXEqnJnWkoiZ7_KoRX8zOMEjRonMcGyoczDKF/s1600/IMG_6757v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1087" data-original-width="1600" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrEkw5AXpAPhC00z5k8FRnlCBak9Ppzxp8BPYXxn58ioC-BJVUFfsbSm7kSHrzGecGeXC4fbmm92qWgqTv4kqkBFxLTAy4uTH9ig_tASaXEqnJnWkoiZ7_KoRX8zOMEjRonMcGyoczDKF/s640/IMG_6757v.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Until I was about five years old, my family lived on the top floor of an apartment building with peculiar, green-tinted windows, in the Çankaya district of Ankara, Turkey's capital city. I fondly remember the green windows, and a sense of warmth, family, order and safety...
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWoIjOVQklELatB_u9JSQAHaJ0cpItA2x79PHq4nkn40LsWG0WCZgV_FthSWSQRr5WBm-koNZYrMif48k-UtyeFXp6fOSj_o0EaHF0ZKBdrIbbyLoaqajKiTe43Bbyk6cp-lREqaN0sGsP/s1600/IMG_0295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1324" data-original-width="1600" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWoIjOVQklELatB_u9JSQAHaJ0cpItA2x79PHq4nkn40LsWG0WCZgV_FthSWSQRr5WBm-koNZYrMif48k-UtyeFXp6fOSj_o0EaHF0ZKBdrIbbyLoaqajKiTe43Bbyk6cp-lREqaN0sGsP/s640/IMG_0295.jpg" width="640" /></a>
Afterwards my family and I moved to Istanbul, where, aside from a few work-and-study-related foreign episodes, I still live to this day.<br />
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Whenever I visit Ankara, I always pass by our old family apartment. It still stands, full of life-sustaining memories... Our old home was on the top-right portion of the building in this photograph, with an open window. One of my life ambitions is to move back to this house, sometime in the future...<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/www.cmkosemen.com">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-74317158738954942362018-05-29T06:44:00.004-07:002018-06-16T14:10:19.448-07:00Urban Weeds of Istanbul: A Brief Botanical Collection<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzBF6dI2e8l8EWJ3PuBvS9ReYXQE42sBIRbytRYTJXqQkFuyqPhkpviHBFLhJl2WKccnf8j7ooMhIGF3ZHD_vX2aEttUkwEOo4prgDqCt5GtazWCdFxiFaHw2v-uq3Dl8KM_Y2ScGCnJ0/s640/IMG_2568v.jpg" width="640" /></span><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">I was always interested in the endless diversity of plants, and in late 2017 I decided to start a dedicated herbarium - with properly pressed, catalogued specimens.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8q2lRBGxt55DypfYBSzf8VnNYWlkVOcPSWiG1JXZ7Yp0QsdP_J7Jq_oPDzdbSJ5GlhzQPy7pGtOLrhIF3n26K7hL2Alkll-uePcyPZVtYQHnJtxOs_MXhzfWyj_nPw8nDcEebVrukwAJB/s1600/IMG_2055v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8q2lRBGxt55DypfYBSzf8VnNYWlkVOcPSWiG1JXZ7Yp0QsdP_J7Jq_oPDzdbSJ5GlhzQPy7pGtOLrhIF3n26K7hL2Alkll-uePcyPZVtYQHnJtxOs_MXhzfWyj_nPw8nDcEebVrukwAJB/s640/IMG_2055v.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">Herbaria are most useful when they focus on a certain area or habitat, so I kept mine on <b>"Istanbul's Wild Urban Flora"</b> - that is to say, the weeds of Istanbul. I thought it was an under-researched area, and the mostly-overlooked "weed" plants actually had tremendous variety among themselves. Plus, living in metropolitan Istanbul myself, I wouldn't have to go anywhere special to collect plants.</span>
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<span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">So I got to work. I made two special stamps for my herbarium...</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJgU3RlPx_LwA6JfxbAjNt4ljU6AfcTcU8GJgdoYvv0LL1JshSdTacpPomZMHZj7_ZHp0Fh1xLuNkgiNxc1-Zl3dzqu1DGk3KcLwmSCybwJaUgexqOqc9KsJPn4bc1P0Q22JJY6A6kKa4/s1600/IMG_1873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1497" data-original-width="1600" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJgU3RlPx_LwA6JfxbAjNt4ljU6AfcTcU8GJgdoYvv0LL1JshSdTacpPomZMHZj7_ZHp0Fh1xLuNkgiNxc1-Zl3dzqu1DGk3KcLwmSCybwJaUgexqOqc9KsJPn4bc1P0Q22JJY6A6kKa4/s640/IMG_1873.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">...the first was this "data stamp", which saved me from the effort of printing labels, or writing data points by hand. It had spaces for an overall collection counter, a collection title, the family, genus and species of the plants (left mostly blank, as I had no botanical training), a space for the name of the researcher who I hoped would one day properly ID my specimen, and various other spaces for coordinates, the type of the plant, and so on. I also included a metre-scale bar to make it easier for researchers to measure the plants.</span>
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<span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">I also made this fancy logo stamp...</span>
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<span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">I learnt all the tips on starting a botanical collection from the excellent <b><a href="http://www.mobot.org/MOBOT/Research/Library/liesner/frontpg.html" target="_blank">"Field Techniques Used by Missouri Botanical Garden" website,</a> </b>compiled by R. Liesner and associates at the Missouri Botanical Garden; which I printed out and bound as an individual booklet. If you want to start a collection of your own, make sure to consult this valuable resource.</span><br /><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxkuM0vm7NkbdAVMD_JtPbKrRIvVvk68WnAhfwAMpceATkBLi-nQOIljtwUkRrc-Fg3xLcX5Dwjktijwn-iE9-N2JEzd0xPs6CtuYP2MWzEmkfcH8R6Q0cxawAMqoeM-SKFrjAYHIsCym/s1600/26513067_10103070074068807_1627849419_o.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1303" data-original-width="1500" height="554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxkuM0vm7NkbdAVMD_JtPbKrRIvVvk68WnAhfwAMpceATkBLi-nQOIljtwUkRrc-Fg3xLcX5Dwjktijwn-iE9-N2JEzd0xPs6CtuYP2MWzEmkfcH8R6Q0cxawAMqoeM-SKFrjAYHIsCym/s640/26513067_10103070074068807_1627849419_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;">I thought a new era had opened in my life, and I would go on to create a botanical collection of hundreds of plates, which would keep me busy for decades. But the world of plants turned out to be vortex of time and attention, to which no one could commit "part of their time" and rest easy. Within weeks of starting this collection, I kept seeing new varieties of weeds and plants everywhere. Collecting, pressing and fixing specimens consumed so much of my time that I started neglecting my own work, book and arts projects. So, regrettably, I decided to "freeze" this collection after preparing 32 plates - 31 from Istanbul, and one from Ankara. </span><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com/2018/05/flowers-from-olympos.html" target="_blank">I now contend myself with merely taking photographs</a> <a href="http://cmkosemenartwork.tumblr.com/post/167306864453/flora-istanbulensis-series-10-20-cyanotype-prints" target="_blank">and making cyanotype prints of plants.</a> The plates sit at my office in an envelope, waiting for the day they will be donated to a botanical garden, university or similar institution. You can see them all below, as high-resolution scans.</span><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></span>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-85402805332875834942018-05-09T05:53:00.003-07:002018-05-10T08:22:06.434-07:00Flowers from Olympos<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n Aptil 2018 I took upon the self-inflicted duty of photographing every type of flower I saw while on holiday in the Olympos-Çıralı district of Turkey's Antalya province.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqlEH2yGoaoP3u1wRGBfwMxlSjtYVEHmtJ7DMDRCRT-U1gjZrU0vuYx7ikRwYGxCmh-ediywz5ghgVBnAKGBQUkbvNbLNtWEHVFvbRhBt3hDqr7DBwefR8oV2xgLoRUyTFaTKAWqzoGjPH/s1600/aaa+IMG_9783.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqlEH2yGoaoP3u1wRGBfwMxlSjtYVEHmtJ7DMDRCRT-U1gjZrU0vuYx7ikRwYGxCmh-ediywz5ghgVBnAKGBQUkbvNbLNtWEHVFvbRhBt3hDqr7DBwefR8oV2xgLoRUyTFaTKAWqzoGjPH/s640/aaa+IMG_9783.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had visited the Olympos-Çıralı coast on this blog <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2014/06/a-walk-across-beach-of-olympos-at.html" target="_blank">before</a>, and also returned to it as part of <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2016/06/three-days-on-lycian-trail.html" target="_blank">an extended trekking adventure in 2016</a>. </div>
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This time around, I only wish to share with you my collection of flower photos from this beautiful and fateful place. Wild, domesticated and ornamental plants are all represented here. Simply put, if I saw a plant with flowers, I took its picture. Below are the results of this three-day bout of photographic flower-collecting. </div>
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I am not botanically educated, and I wish to offer my gratitude to the members of the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/IFLbotany/" target="_blank">IFL Botany group</a> on Facebook, most notably to <b>Mr. Michael Vincent, </b>for the identification of these flowers. Enjoy!</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuh_lIm_zIrokgbLLoNMJl0BAxiUsNMLUKohv0UuAQ7CBHoIfH7DjYyx1-OOItCV31keOXeja0dNC96CIR9EB1Z8Ja-YG_XpSouwmW5uIU7YjsAoFJgPzxJEt26DEwPVE4rQb9Vqmh3_NC/s1600/IMG_0016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuh_lIm_zIrokgbLLoNMJl0BAxiUsNMLUKohv0UuAQ7CBHoIfH7DjYyx1-OOItCV31keOXeja0dNC96CIR9EB1Z8Ja-YG_XpSouwmW5uIU7YjsAoFJgPzxJEt26DEwPVE4rQb9Vqmh3_NC/s640/IMG_0016.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Rosaceae sp., perhaps <i>Photinia.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8qUTHgIEliK52RiVjX_wYs5BhGfV2zW0JpwhcDkXu5DGvudcXFq5BwVmW95al4b7Y0TNVwDU00_DwltDLIOG4svookGSWP6dB4lUJCO2SCrodtlqAAKOUsfYKH_eQ35lh5KQibQGETi42/s1600/IMG_0018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8qUTHgIEliK52RiVjX_wYs5BhGfV2zW0JpwhcDkXu5DGvudcXFq5BwVmW95al4b7Y0TNVwDU00_DwltDLIOG4svookGSWP6dB4lUJCO2SCrodtlqAAKOUsfYKH_eQ35lh5KQibQGETi42/s640/IMG_0018.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Oxalis </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBgW3A7BeXKGzD0jR17AQtrfdZmK9z_2RmlfT8reO8FaxvRMnvQ708x66ZqGMriU-YvwgMPbng4XrkIyFhkLQGLLB2ZDkTu7Ns0axgt0CxSMyLPMS4KXhoaPKBT5epjG_1s6zCl3oyb6W/s1600/IMG_0019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBgW3A7BeXKGzD0jR17AQtrfdZmK9z_2RmlfT8reO8FaxvRMnvQ708x66ZqGMriU-YvwgMPbng4XrkIyFhkLQGLLB2ZDkTu7Ns0axgt0CxSMyLPMS4KXhoaPKBT5epjG_1s6zCl3oyb6W/s640/IMG_0019.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Oxalis </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFC9slKj-Bzn4dk2FXEjfCNXV-TSAuV4Qg28O1m2l9LOrHtHlmbMh08shdfrtGyE6XO7Z6a0mTK53uqoLY9f3SKUTJ9o87H88RlcsWgARAH8NRGMpL7tzvAOT8JWl00AGNRWqFR2uVHk7/s1600/IMG_0020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFC9slKj-Bzn4dk2FXEjfCNXV-TSAuV4Qg28O1m2l9LOrHtHlmbMh08shdfrtGyE6XO7Z6a0mTK53uqoLY9f3SKUTJ9o87H88RlcsWgARAH8NRGMpL7tzvAOT8JWl00AGNRWqFR2uVHk7/s640/IMG_0020.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Oxalis </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1pJONbrUPFNvXGdKRY0d2eueHTvDBaEZFHvapQb0tOJkBJmc9t_wVT0B9ZSNnAYXH9rcrV6VzL9MsLwtiuIgJncMxFfCh_n6PwBFNe9PXWEIOIIyZc_UrunS0HmaTUcJ4p_RDaEiWOwY/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1pJONbrUPFNvXGdKRY0d2eueHTvDBaEZFHvapQb0tOJkBJmc9t_wVT0B9ZSNnAYXH9rcrV6VzL9MsLwtiuIgJncMxFfCh_n6PwBFNe9PXWEIOIIyZc_UrunS0HmaTUcJ4p_RDaEiWOwY/s640/IMG_0021.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq1jFU16JpaSmCNEUjs87YVKDg8Q6yJlYQnPa9xGS-8M2kA39aqVJpIpHBj2sk2guBy6hm2zNRz5YhhwL8J3xFu5PZ_fgLPe-WtKo4wuOPh1gdrK4yuIHsYgEJrAEhoGo8rbcb1onXg7fQ/s1600/IMG_0061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq1jFU16JpaSmCNEUjs87YVKDg8Q6yJlYQnPa9xGS-8M2kA39aqVJpIpHBj2sk2guBy6hm2zNRz5YhhwL8J3xFu5PZ_fgLPe-WtKo4wuOPh1gdrK4yuIHsYgEJrAEhoGo8rbcb1onXg7fQ/s640/IMG_0061.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Tradescantia </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2q53Ul6OGm5jTtDAfxjVWGX__8zhvtd_o-zAG2lbbvf3J9xxYhY2XJgNV75qwyXfEOOz90dsVLnTu_QOpe2NzSoOG2regHuRconyCIJo6GwTBftx7NzHYNdBsFefQo4SyzDpKzz0OoMh/s1600/IMG_0062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2q53Ul6OGm5jTtDAfxjVWGX__8zhvtd_o-zAG2lbbvf3J9xxYhY2XJgNV75qwyXfEOOz90dsVLnTu_QOpe2NzSoOG2regHuRconyCIJo6GwTBftx7NzHYNdBsFefQo4SyzDpKzz0OoMh/s640/IMG_0062.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Rosaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeXWMyHd3enu519XoSlfP54xtDSfBBXY2GBS-dLD7NFYvAM6awE2V-LHmY1HQ46gO0F0dGDazvcCq2hNS5rKj-syk7vxVGPIQQXmDFxlbLOToZ-cDarIhkCGpKdjpL5QadIu_pbrRyhIF/s1600/IMG_0063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeXWMyHd3enu519XoSlfP54xtDSfBBXY2GBS-dLD7NFYvAM6awE2V-LHmY1HQ46gO0F0dGDazvcCq2hNS5rKj-syk7vxVGPIQQXmDFxlbLOToZ-cDarIhkCGpKdjpL5QadIu_pbrRyhIF/s640/IMG_0063.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Malvaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSoyavJEbVrHV8FsUdWGDdRB5ZXrlt9VCBi3xD0E9nqx6kdeytye2Z6lD9W8EWEiE4xhVv67eaOxa2xYilVydG1tfjLS1hK0i-_PHiVyznjkkA-e7wNywqlNwicStYq_Hseeyh_Vl4EA8h/s1600/IMG_0068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSoyavJEbVrHV8FsUdWGDdRB5ZXrlt9VCBi3xD0E9nqx6kdeytye2Z6lD9W8EWEiE4xhVv67eaOxa2xYilVydG1tfjLS1hK0i-_PHiVyznjkkA-e7wNywqlNwicStYq_Hseeyh_Vl4EA8h/s640/IMG_0068.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Boraginaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmjZAKu0o_48MhmhyVirRHu3m8Bp1JzMQezoLiaYYYeVxVHbtehPFKHgy_C5l7dBAI4bcSCH40uG8w1WqdDVh-hqDiNun4Xc1lY24jsoEzCmo9X67gGP8yY7c_kdf5SWOtw-vwDT43VRy/s1600/IMG_0072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmjZAKu0o_48MhmhyVirRHu3m8Bp1JzMQezoLiaYYYeVxVHbtehPFKHgy_C5l7dBAI4bcSCH40uG8w1WqdDVh-hqDiNun4Xc1lY24jsoEzCmo9X67gGP8yY7c_kdf5SWOtw-vwDT43VRy/s640/IMG_0072.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Apiaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFBNe1-BS1UfqhU1QSIm1qqfkc4-RO-t6PGHa4kz6DFxrAy3QK-jtonvMEk5Esu7HgagVK1j5nnJRCyyWbIU6h4ILoAuntPAWAjMSmuSOAs60tnucjuv79DyXZ7qBOzpm0cmIjUUQf_3j/s1600/IMG_0079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFBNe1-BS1UfqhU1QSIm1qqfkc4-RO-t6PGHa4kz6DFxrAy3QK-jtonvMEk5Esu7HgagVK1j5nnJRCyyWbIU6h4ILoAuntPAWAjMSmuSOAs60tnucjuv79DyXZ7qBOzpm0cmIjUUQf_3j/s640/IMG_0079.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nyctaginaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQWBmx8OTKRxNei1OhfqPTSM1OcIi4kXfhhNPXpFrDXjs-OOFZ6GHg-__NV1uY2xhCmMnjPQRn2pEfUyekmT0_zMK-dYGfYs0_MCWH3M6h2ECu1C7g7LGhCgX-xiUt3yhfd9mZnD-PDs9/s1600/IMG_0080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQWBmx8OTKRxNei1OhfqPTSM1OcIi4kXfhhNPXpFrDXjs-OOFZ6GHg-__NV1uY2xhCmMnjPQRn2pEfUyekmT0_zMK-dYGfYs0_MCWH3M6h2ECu1C7g7LGhCgX-xiUt3yhfd9mZnD-PDs9/s640/IMG_0080.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lamiaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJ80zq80E_pDRcjIVHZ_VzEPXAop4VNP_pB-DD28gymjj0GKsSJHBd7AvwUIB7AOgHJUD7AqPRiEmBstywYL7USraHqOC9qJEMhwQE1Y1Ht_VCBAKWk2IV-P9IheYXo29lSmurPPHMlBY/s1600/IMG_0086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJ80zq80E_pDRcjIVHZ_VzEPXAop4VNP_pB-DD28gymjj0GKsSJHBd7AvwUIB7AOgHJUD7AqPRiEmBstywYL7USraHqOC9qJEMhwQE1Y1Ht_VCBAKWk2IV-P9IheYXo29lSmurPPHMlBY/s640/IMG_0086.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Datura metel</i> or similar species.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtcfOGgmgD0sy3MFOmMrVIACbM9CFEo8NeEevPzoZSs7lmMX8lLBBFHRrliRgbK6DN3TC024nY2Eoigdf6pisV3Z5U_vf5O7vgy1tcz0D0TfYhyphenhyphenTpsSquQoz5GEKIzV9ZK6i_DfVglqE5/s1600/IMG_0088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtcfOGgmgD0sy3MFOmMrVIACbM9CFEo8NeEevPzoZSs7lmMX8lLBBFHRrliRgbK6DN3TC024nY2Eoigdf6pisV3Z5U_vf5O7vgy1tcz0D0TfYhyphenhyphenTpsSquQoz5GEKIzV9ZK6i_DfVglqE5/s640/IMG_0088.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6hc8voalL6tt2kq0zAOdp4t4tnvW2wC1aneLAP1Bku9Vf_v9BPqOv2UYj_HKt-J8A5kJ63zgcxP7aIHQgOSXVxDnJqfjuGvFj6CwFvhWRWlSXGKMp3cx1DAY6XeIq8f2UdrrWs3Pw9jW/s1600/IMG_0090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6hc8voalL6tt2kq0zAOdp4t4tnvW2wC1aneLAP1Bku9Vf_v9BPqOv2UYj_HKt-J8A5kJ63zgcxP7aIHQgOSXVxDnJqfjuGvFj6CwFvhWRWlSXGKMp3cx1DAY6XeIq8f2UdrrWs3Pw9jW/s640/IMG_0090.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Malvaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNKKRQOIq8TTTBPNBnDMoh0ZaPNPvj_SAMTU2msQEt7qTKHnVT4Vbb1ZGLbqHdFsdfT6XYhuDafPZsfAzc2gewR0x9YXyutGQpzK-RPJNFR9kYY599yt3LgS9nvezou-2qpMnzSzY2sHK/s1600/IMG_0091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNKKRQOIq8TTTBPNBnDMoh0ZaPNPvj_SAMTU2msQEt7qTKHnVT4Vbb1ZGLbqHdFsdfT6XYhuDafPZsfAzc2gewR0x9YXyutGQpzK-RPJNFR9kYY599yt3LgS9nvezou-2qpMnzSzY2sHK/s640/IMG_0091.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Day lily, <i>Hemrocallis fulva.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS8u2ATRMLPMlTBLMsdiyMPjh5C0oNp-xpCPWmNHZJBHnD6cYayGyMjZyvFNL1CWYPreTbcLIaUvcVE9Z-pTS3knbebVAXHyLSjwtgroRb-ySe_7YbQfLF-U7e7T3GgnwQjBhBYI8m53Iz/s1600/IMG_0098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS8u2ATRMLPMlTBLMsdiyMPjh5C0oNp-xpCPWmNHZJBHnD6cYayGyMjZyvFNL1CWYPreTbcLIaUvcVE9Z-pTS3knbebVAXHyLSjwtgroRb-ySe_7YbQfLF-U7e7T3GgnwQjBhBYI8m53Iz/s640/IMG_0098.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Begonia </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrw8ExBy_J2YOOMYBubBYiHFYt886P3qO_O6uxARBWsBZHjclILwwdYu-vSJ5xbYABr5dC_zqUACrHtlzw8szIFUitxf7JaSza9OtSHSAgNZGlYoIBPCbQ6Uw_xiEK2WdSSC2R4YekAbU/s1600/IMG_0100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrw8ExBy_J2YOOMYBubBYiHFYt886P3qO_O6uxARBWsBZHjclILwwdYu-vSJ5xbYABr5dC_zqUACrHtlzw8szIFUitxf7JaSza9OtSHSAgNZGlYoIBPCbQ6Uw_xiEK2WdSSC2R4YekAbU/s640/IMG_0100.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOWElVpqhEFLo9UiTHszqtgmOTmn-Kb_sGw-FRjTocdd1bKJqQ-xAJUjgQ69eKXsUSH6E-3zNojwGnY7P9e1hFzkdxXnZncDRDDSVkkF1Rh_-hESIwKmMfgsnPOL1g-BlIlFv1rc2JebL/s1600/IMG_0101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOWElVpqhEFLo9UiTHszqtgmOTmn-Kb_sGw-FRjTocdd1bKJqQ-xAJUjgQ69eKXsUSH6E-3zNojwGnY7P9e1hFzkdxXnZncDRDDSVkkF1Rh_-hESIwKmMfgsnPOL1g-BlIlFv1rc2JebL/s640/IMG_0101.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNWNxCj1Cx1kjkVO4s1i8R6EsIGMy43V0CR7BJRGofTqWJIw33DSA2KzbAsnXeqqCChFiERWb6z1FBsORGuszTkLYU3OxQ97GHoXwgbiGPBPn4H3SSrqXpy2mHZ1_S2W050ylIU5DEC8B/s1600/IMG_0102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNWNxCj1Cx1kjkVO4s1i8R6EsIGMy43V0CR7BJRGofTqWJIw33DSA2KzbAsnXeqqCChFiERWb6z1FBsORGuszTkLYU3OxQ97GHoXwgbiGPBPn4H3SSrqXpy2mHZ1_S2W050ylIU5DEC8B/s640/IMG_0102.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Bougainvillea </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkljPysMjXKjnk3t_amRPgYCBrWt4Kzia1UbE8wtp-i5N7GRQC5Y6P9We0HjtoRDnR4XSu93XGMTiHlBXpl459KV4B8Wu22QM95CwsqmmgOFRkZAHCCLo1Xsglf16Btx22ejxUvG0JUm-r/s1600/IMG_0104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkljPysMjXKjnk3t_amRPgYCBrWt4Kzia1UbE8wtp-i5N7GRQC5Y6P9We0HjtoRDnR4XSu93XGMTiHlBXpl459KV4B8Wu22QM95CwsqmmgOFRkZAHCCLo1Xsglf16Btx22ejxUvG0JUm-r/s640/IMG_0104.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitU95p4Ks6cOkY5cbDwAmYxzxqIHWIC6Hqoc297mJeEWzf8yZWAvuNM-XY7c64i4k5Nlclx4nQz52lmDr5-GRNCLJZiLD_pkcvBN0jS_q7OyPbenbhyphenhyphen42-Cimdb7jovtMHT685p3qVKii9/s1600/IMG_9773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitU95p4Ks6cOkY5cbDwAmYxzxqIHWIC6Hqoc297mJeEWzf8yZWAvuNM-XY7c64i4k5Nlclx4nQz52lmDr5-GRNCLJZiLD_pkcvBN0jS_q7OyPbenbhyphenhyphen42-Cimdb7jovtMHT685p3qVKii9/s640/IMG_9773.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Ipomoea </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_puXJieHQ59npEvhC_MnQRG5FGW_eZLzCqXuLCaWpq48SE3u1GYKb857jKxW5FuK2H1kaVrR3ZGUebh4Bxq_8xLiYZB9UluVFXua2bOUeES1IPoL_7RG0CaRbzrZiX8QnSVxhtzvQHBY/s1600/IMG_9779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_puXJieHQ59npEvhC_MnQRG5FGW_eZLzCqXuLCaWpq48SE3u1GYKb857jKxW5FuK2H1kaVrR3ZGUebh4Bxq_8xLiYZB9UluVFXua2bOUeES1IPoL_7RG0CaRbzrZiX8QnSVxhtzvQHBY/s640/IMG_9779.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Hibiscus </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifHGB5NXVjxRhsfjgbtz4b_bGVRmjtXq200DbdvO6J-3CkI957eRhxwW6Flb547ikoozkXhHuTC8chKq4Ek8nqpjQMzeM2b53uX4bx_w_HvbCLWbGAhZFqsWUf8tON1gSl9gm69Ao4x7j/s1600/IMG_9781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifHGB5NXVjxRhsfjgbtz4b_bGVRmjtXq200DbdvO6J-3CkI957eRhxwW6Flb547ikoozkXhHuTC8chKq4Ek8nqpjQMzeM2b53uX4bx_w_HvbCLWbGAhZFqsWUf8tON1gSl9gm69Ao4x7j/s640/IMG_9781.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Anagallis arvensis.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVJTa7mzDfDtjNkbpg_68W7GyoB82U66nIRSJdhtjM_F1Rn-DhJrgjttQwgs9lZR7E5LlGfR3l-XqdgYosHJ2qkMF2u3ENZTFwUvN4eI5jTZTjAes4HSPnS_yH_xLxI0ZevRh7w6ajdoZ/s1600/IMG_9782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVJTa7mzDfDtjNkbpg_68W7GyoB82U66nIRSJdhtjM_F1Rn-DhJrgjttQwgs9lZR7E5LlGfR3l-XqdgYosHJ2qkMF2u3ENZTFwUvN4eI5jTZTjAes4HSPnS_yH_xLxI0ZevRh7w6ajdoZ/s640/IMG_9782.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Anagallis arvensis.</i></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Wiyz1U196YoAKRDcjybvSnJKCpYJ4NcRmq6-8NDew97x88JUvhBg5FBftrb_f6SSqps2U8GNNRQG9O5KfsFPmBMxHpKrAzQWpY6SvrHTHBBpZuCArbNZTWnMb-1QuLaMUQIc4v7636b3/s1600/IMG_9791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Wiyz1U196YoAKRDcjybvSnJKCpYJ4NcRmq6-8NDew97x88JUvhBg5FBftrb_f6SSqps2U8GNNRQG9O5KfsFPmBMxHpKrAzQWpY6SvrHTHBBpZuCArbNZTWnMb-1QuLaMUQIc4v7636b3/s640/IMG_9791.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Oxalis </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQkNV5UpRXMrcvCzbG4-9eJIH7DNbMR21jzdtMmGU31VUXQjbndr9E_AEVnSjQuFqp3GGamP0IW8QIZyBqPgWgYUKMD1eaYAZTTE-Jp9O6O47dIEB8a8loNFhtY-OIeU6xd8u-HjVkvAC/s1600/IMG_9792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQkNV5UpRXMrcvCzbG4-9eJIH7DNbMR21jzdtMmGU31VUXQjbndr9E_AEVnSjQuFqp3GGamP0IW8QIZyBqPgWgYUKMD1eaYAZTTE-Jp9O6O47dIEB8a8loNFhtY-OIeU6xd8u-HjVkvAC/s640/IMG_9792.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Oenothera </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NkIr4umt9FUBmTl7NTMbmDdyu5CCi9c1wwXeuaCOnd69Bo7Y3BYWq6Wn89uXLihd0Lwq17rYS8wEWCrIdA4FYSpCNJG9OYGIMwduBWB8ipV_SVqg_Jr8fPrsMld7UeqZB9NyzhFUYhfj/s1600/IMG_9797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NkIr4umt9FUBmTl7NTMbmDdyu5CCi9c1wwXeuaCOnd69Bo7Y3BYWq6Wn89uXLihd0Lwq17rYS8wEWCrIdA4FYSpCNJG9OYGIMwduBWB8ipV_SVqg_Jr8fPrsMld7UeqZB9NyzhFUYhfj/s640/IMG_9797.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Asteraceae sp.?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgojm4v3m2HNPNt9at3OiNmhGIhCUUNFIcacgFSXM1IpRVJOg9QKbJ3cpAApXZJ2H_zoCsO0HRanNNaatrqbhqyWnZZzDZC4GQfzOBKUuYMJgYGrmxTW5zgjbmpALBQfYuHSZBAXidg7PBo/s1600/IMG_9800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgojm4v3m2HNPNt9at3OiNmhGIhCUUNFIcacgFSXM1IpRVJOg9QKbJ3cpAApXZJ2H_zoCsO0HRanNNaatrqbhqyWnZZzDZC4GQfzOBKUuYMJgYGrmxTW5zgjbmpALBQfYuHSZBAXidg7PBo/s640/IMG_9800.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdiNTSQ_OpQJ0cV_D0FY8je7cxyiSI4vFs3hpUInZYyphMUOXdJHbX16SHxtLM9BT15oUe6SZelHjNDwX2G-tetao5S-Kg2UwYdEADJdQg5A-bWy-5bSHXC5qKwbM9IXIf5SPoESCmR831/s1600/IMG_9803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdiNTSQ_OpQJ0cV_D0FY8je7cxyiSI4vFs3hpUInZYyphMUOXdJHbX16SHxtLM9BT15oUe6SZelHjNDwX2G-tetao5S-Kg2UwYdEADJdQg5A-bWy-5bSHXC5qKwbM9IXIf5SPoESCmR831/s640/IMG_9803.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Lantana </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscZ8v4jlzdD0o7eg8tZkp7oqmO6c0JoC3KP1LYCZgZCPk6BffGal7_8vBHgTDL5kTA5JtW9ZtnydixG1sGY1VwlyQVu7-YIqs8sKvxSxTtYhvW6zWC7JiS8JaD7vZpORJzR3v-4pdJ5NJ/s1600/IMG_9808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscZ8v4jlzdD0o7eg8tZkp7oqmO6c0JoC3KP1LYCZgZCPk6BffGal7_8vBHgTDL5kTA5JtW9ZtnydixG1sGY1VwlyQVu7-YIqs8sKvxSxTtYhvW6zWC7JiS8JaD7vZpORJzR3v-4pdJ5NJ/s640/IMG_9808.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_5NQrcDrtaHaTSWcG_b0Vj7ii_78cUxOyVqC8DtFzm4l3pggx-X1swZ7ryBdUrzxNoVRDUa287hVuNe-YrWwLUUME9axDJVgKBgDQLBCmN5w8I_093ShkMwzzTn5zpDTGXCFBztm9tY3/s1600/IMG_9818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_5NQrcDrtaHaTSWcG_b0Vj7ii_78cUxOyVqC8DtFzm4l3pggx-X1swZ7ryBdUrzxNoVRDUa287hVuNe-YrWwLUUME9axDJVgKBgDQLBCmN5w8I_093ShkMwzzTn5zpDTGXCFBztm9tY3/s640/IMG_9818.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Hypericum </i>sp.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHs16a32D2fXqqsuGJv_LjbqMwhExyytvnHU8So8LxhXw-yv8rcPrgki_D5RWc5V8nhWSc_J-5k2mfQBk1KT-ntXPWDYNHTcoAFGY-V7fdsnQIgiVT_PLpXfZt21JyEwX5VVc7P077-H30/s1600/IMG_9821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHs16a32D2fXqqsuGJv_LjbqMwhExyytvnHU8So8LxhXw-yv8rcPrgki_D5RWc5V8nhWSc_J-5k2mfQBk1KT-ntXPWDYNHTcoAFGY-V7fdsnQIgiVT_PLpXfZt21JyEwX5VVc7P077-H30/s640/IMG_9821.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Sedum </i>sp.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0nSi7ClA3iEV0bQBFNAuXMvVAIDZoOi_6f4TwWvNxOgNdi5FVZxcmDygVLMvNrYGa_SRb3NdIjzDfsq-qpI7E2zXd2Dxn5bo03a1dCyuIgW9fh7bUgrJmkWx13SS8UeLOyGVzYoGLeDS/s1600/IMG_9822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0nSi7ClA3iEV0bQBFNAuXMvVAIDZoOi_6f4TwWvNxOgNdi5FVZxcmDygVLMvNrYGa_SRb3NdIjzDfsq-qpI7E2zXd2Dxn5bo03a1dCyuIgW9fh7bUgrJmkWx13SS8UeLOyGVzYoGLeDS/s640/IMG_9822.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilT2fh66POA2CQ15XPIQejQjJCE5kPoJe_vqJHqkepMUZsqEVlUwP0KXM6gimWju48ZHoEJV9dpZtobWnwqR4JuxV_GuXXls8ilIH22KGFKbspzbFoILK9HM8QLLRj-pe7MpU4m68f5HOO/s1600/IMG_9826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilT2fh66POA2CQ15XPIQejQjJCE5kPoJe_vqJHqkepMUZsqEVlUwP0KXM6gimWju48ZHoEJV9dpZtobWnwqR4JuxV_GuXXls8ilIH22KGFKbspzbFoILK9HM8QLLRj-pe7MpU4m68f5HOO/s640/IMG_9826.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDh9Q7OH_mmbMvSUq0JSmtzsnR4GPKxX4AH4k7YF04k9-lY6W9NL_RQA9wW_ob2UyAWBBfuuZYUrA9K_gHBj4Zjn-cIS7gBgMJvd3cI8HuVlS0yCcCb5gE_etFmv6KhOfkgdjxxlG8QQe/s1600/IMG_9829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDh9Q7OH_mmbMvSUq0JSmtzsnR4GPKxX4AH4k7YF04k9-lY6W9NL_RQA9wW_ob2UyAWBBfuuZYUrA9K_gHBj4Zjn-cIS7gBgMJvd3cI8HuVlS0yCcCb5gE_etFmv6KhOfkgdjxxlG8QQe/s640/IMG_9829.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Proteaceae sp.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRobhTdMlvvrA-OUJjNWWJiGzxz2Q7_azut9-_dvqgQrybhQCfJaCx9sG_ohXMhFgMAZhNvLqx5DGSzDtQEbZw0uqKUtHtGwkfpTrKbmFMQvrq_u9X3oDXyRx2EHoqfiHBcZPsighUEFBd/s1600/IMG_9830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRobhTdMlvvrA-OUJjNWWJiGzxz2Q7_azut9-_dvqgQrybhQCfJaCx9sG_ohXMhFgMAZhNvLqx5DGSzDtQEbZw0uqKUtHtGwkfpTrKbmFMQvrq_u9X3oDXyRx2EHoqfiHBcZPsighUEFBd/s640/IMG_9830.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Aizoaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhCE05Ulrcc8jfQX-DCNi5gJv5TtsB2gecnNOEfNnhLdYVoYWVqlCp7XNEhIH1g7jLKTKkZpFkQfzBdg3ygIrDiJ3II4dkWnda62QtzmQF5gL7TsfAwghcsfs8IF0wlgQ3QX3rqaegkX1/s1600/IMG_9831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhCE05Ulrcc8jfQX-DCNi5gJv5TtsB2gecnNOEfNnhLdYVoYWVqlCp7XNEhIH1g7jLKTKkZpFkQfzBdg3ygIrDiJ3II4dkWnda62QtzmQF5gL7TsfAwghcsfs8IF0wlgQ3QX3rqaegkX1/s640/IMG_9831.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzN1TWuAwPD_xEYg6ehhKwymBW6icRejmF7smlzrodVY3D2hjZqqC3VWXZsbmlXW9HhYmSF3YmVmdAeD_9UQQ3tS8aVH4hd2VTeFfLdbyHP4cECwUD5uK9SMB3uqDDgkbNeBBUbxl0_6Ai/s1600/IMG_9833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzN1TWuAwPD_xEYg6ehhKwymBW6icRejmF7smlzrodVY3D2hjZqqC3VWXZsbmlXW9HhYmSF3YmVmdAeD_9UQQ3tS8aVH4hd2VTeFfLdbyHP4cECwUD5uK9SMB3uqDDgkbNeBBUbxl0_6Ai/s640/IMG_9833.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Rosa </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGvwWhNQW0x61cvGeGxpacsj4Wi42CX2KNZHZoZ5CjQQ2SNzHk4e6u3h7D-dIg72ivYtSPsAf8LEkUlbjNOrm7GuIx8ieg5_iKJ0VX4Lmh8HERaMaB5omMb4gDoHBmYA1rAKeebxBeltuZ/s1600/IMG_9835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGvwWhNQW0x61cvGeGxpacsj4Wi42CX2KNZHZoZ5CjQQ2SNzHk4e6u3h7D-dIg72ivYtSPsAf8LEkUlbjNOrm7GuIx8ieg5_iKJ0VX4Lmh8HERaMaB5omMb4gDoHBmYA1rAKeebxBeltuZ/s640/IMG_9835.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Apocynaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwdW3oWllcN7fOfrkEGH6ihHjAEOushrYN8MMGxH1hXI2dbyhQbBwG8yjpHZYsAKyEY_x7_ARCDwpIIQBOZTdGWhzsbGVLypuIYQPs1T2-Oa83hwcgsurwo79MUXeCD-6CMeaQpcu3i1y/s1600/IMG_9837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwdW3oWllcN7fOfrkEGH6ihHjAEOushrYN8MMGxH1hXI2dbyhQbBwG8yjpHZYsAKyEY_x7_ARCDwpIIQBOZTdGWhzsbGVLypuIYQPs1T2-Oa83hwcgsurwo79MUXeCD-6CMeaQpcu3i1y/s640/IMG_9837.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Lonicera </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnMJwaCte1d4sta0VpDtU-2eAsWfkR-c7Bq8XsxXA7h58Unm71Hf-ZeJ3d671eT2uVhqe2gL9duhLr0uDJD3TcvsWI_VO41Ru4uticEU_EQKg7fcGw4261hsF_UtZi8UQROmzaKfDNIRt/s1600/IMG_9838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnMJwaCte1d4sta0VpDtU-2eAsWfkR-c7Bq8XsxXA7h58Unm71Hf-ZeJ3d671eT2uVhqe2gL9duhLr0uDJD3TcvsWI_VO41Ru4uticEU_EQKg7fcGw4261hsF_UtZi8UQROmzaKfDNIRt/s640/IMG_9838.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Plumeria </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZE5dVI5F0vSEzQ-tVqAyFUHdZBMauJOw-XUWSq3Ic8F8yoLpwJtIb945Wm2TxMHHZci44H6p9mD9h0d72mV9ffnN4IPjcFjkvv19H7Vis-mdsAc4y9us6l0k1JnidGvthinTGHM4wSS8d/s1600/IMG_9840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZE5dVI5F0vSEzQ-tVqAyFUHdZBMauJOw-XUWSq3Ic8F8yoLpwJtIb945Wm2TxMHHZci44H6p9mD9h0d72mV9ffnN4IPjcFjkvv19H7Vis-mdsAc4y9us6l0k1JnidGvthinTGHM4wSS8d/s640/IMG_9840.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Apiaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP_8KjXluVDrcDeY78FPwzbP6-ZbOJcvA4_c-MqVaHiYSguTAr-mwgnrZK7xeu6BetcKpmuWaesRKaRtU4gfkVKZPw1FCbRkSqOULYXxeroe3CnygqJRB9aHqGWAwais16isjrHUJVUdn/s1600/IMG_9845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP_8KjXluVDrcDeY78FPwzbP6-ZbOJcvA4_c-MqVaHiYSguTAr-mwgnrZK7xeu6BetcKpmuWaesRKaRtU4gfkVKZPw1FCbRkSqOULYXxeroe3CnygqJRB9aHqGWAwais16isjrHUJVUdn/s640/IMG_9845.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lamiaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0Q5eapKGwNkNq2ffOjnHABiAXfyoxD39wQEtEG5PcJX4vtU40gSxiUhGLn6opobWO3s7YM85m0X4EDuyLMcVU8FJyfBFnEhwtfzyY_lHKMx5598SI1ZI2av1nSoKmVaaD3Qce6QwF4l7/s1600/IMG_9848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0Q5eapKGwNkNq2ffOjnHABiAXfyoxD39wQEtEG5PcJX4vtU40gSxiUhGLn6opobWO3s7YM85m0X4EDuyLMcVU8FJyfBFnEhwtfzyY_lHKMx5598SI1ZI2av1nSoKmVaaD3Qce6QwF4l7/s640/IMG_9848.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWlNEmakvdr_qF16qEKTmYVRIDBem8Pw1pGP8d3Yhb2Rfilih_KBeKRHHcCMQyrUQUB3svfgk-b8vjhnWUlHEPnwER2HVWwkyYctrSvv93rRyhw1bV0qT0SirQriD589p25iuhcVqfbNS/s1600/IMG_9853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWlNEmakvdr_qF16qEKTmYVRIDBem8Pw1pGP8d3Yhb2Rfilih_KBeKRHHcCMQyrUQUB3svfgk-b8vjhnWUlHEPnwER2HVWwkyYctrSvv93rRyhw1bV0qT0SirQriD589p25iuhcVqfbNS/s640/IMG_9853.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Caryophyllaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAuohygAWiz54sXBV4mSV8-t-Cwkrkhixa_wwKFWSCSTORDmwBOeRPgSaqUQikq-_862oCX3T8hvXA3oNvS92Pqgj_KaduLqAF2yKSeantDKPRzHVjegjW9KJqK0v-igkj_7whiWns9UGB/s1600/IMG_9855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAuohygAWiz54sXBV4mSV8-t-Cwkrkhixa_wwKFWSCSTORDmwBOeRPgSaqUQikq-_862oCX3T8hvXA3oNvS92Pqgj_KaduLqAF2yKSeantDKPRzHVjegjW9KJqK0v-igkj_7whiWns9UGB/s640/IMG_9855.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Pelargonium </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCugGutu59irXftCfE7OoxGbZZB7oheWWlPBqcPzK8gtAa5oKO9yiEjwg3QdySCh_tafOiHo3aMZRFYIC4YoARoCicJ4p73iWTovmQ2GN_pGs6Ez0CKLOFxdSybLjzJQ3yQxDhZgXhQi8l/s1600/IMG_9856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCugGutu59irXftCfE7OoxGbZZB7oheWWlPBqcPzK8gtAa5oKO9yiEjwg3QdySCh_tafOiHo3aMZRFYIC4YoARoCicJ4p73iWTovmQ2GN_pGs6Ez0CKLOFxdSybLjzJQ3yQxDhZgXhQi8l/s640/IMG_9856.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Verbenaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPf7biP7SwFOxUIylTg84pM8kYEPAYUgLwcd_y60NykrXgVBhuPocBWyVqOePtvOvbC7jb6fTBSG1nqy_onlUtB12J4ZtJ87RTCNfuiV2FocYGxJ2EA89_ZyFDruCTQwYXUU4gUmTkQh8/s1600/IMG_9857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPf7biP7SwFOxUIylTg84pM8kYEPAYUgLwcd_y60NykrXgVBhuPocBWyVqOePtvOvbC7jb6fTBSG1nqy_onlUtB12J4ZtJ87RTCNfuiV2FocYGxJ2EA89_ZyFDruCTQwYXUU4gUmTkQh8/s640/IMG_9857.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Gazania </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbT2WGpRwHc5sK3nS-Q55YF1nBJG-Q1UAjWp9kXvGMHufgm_h_TkLTZ3kybn30PfjsAHxtWqcSlgudc8C_KHxU4Uh6J2gUkCmrN8hVb7PdpEiz-_V19xh4qUF-gsIuX-Jo1p1GM5o81uN8/s1600/IMG_9860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbT2WGpRwHc5sK3nS-Q55YF1nBJG-Q1UAjWp9kXvGMHufgm_h_TkLTZ3kybn30PfjsAHxtWqcSlgudc8C_KHxU4Uh6J2gUkCmrN8hVb7PdpEiz-_V19xh4qUF-gsIuX-Jo1p1GM5o81uN8/s640/IMG_9860.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Papaver rhoeas</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-0dtS1StkKCziQmqutsd66GQB6R8ZOUU3yJCz8pYFn_-ytOnjgArrjSnpUgBiEtusplxRaO8r2pfwMvzw0cOOTA8gPeMatWUbsCZaOLiqaM5KpOUv-HiU1_A7SRuhf2JEZfHW_vR7x05/s1600/IMG_9863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-0dtS1StkKCziQmqutsd66GQB6R8ZOUU3yJCz8pYFn_-ytOnjgArrjSnpUgBiEtusplxRaO8r2pfwMvzw0cOOTA8gPeMatWUbsCZaOLiqaM5KpOUv-HiU1_A7SRuhf2JEZfHW_vR7x05/s640/IMG_9863.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Tecomaria capensis ?, </i>Bignoniaceae.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMok2m1vJUPjwfzIZ91KOPBGB-MvH75HpXqWjDwneYFlrzE5TYj68jEp7ByPNeXYjN90CoMqSh8XK9YlcGHNU8IF6OkwIsh1m6ikm1D2ZE4UlwmAeN9fga9UEHuaxJ4aZUJfn6eJRcL7W/s1600/IMG_9865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMok2m1vJUPjwfzIZ91KOPBGB-MvH75HpXqWjDwneYFlrzE5TYj68jEp7ByPNeXYjN90CoMqSh8XK9YlcGHNU8IF6OkwIsh1m6ikm1D2ZE4UlwmAeN9fga9UEHuaxJ4aZUJfn6eJRcL7W/s640/IMG_9865.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Opuntia </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheX4pcUYVsinNWElkeFHRE965tp-f6FM4TjJcgtvmK3j4TVuqDokpC0jm0itZ7ETeRstLkage_tBXQHUuOPDK-KM7uVEdkBD4UbuCrGMHnJkvWp1FNjIwsJsS70Y1Ujcu_eMVGXNB7RL_C/s1600/IMG_9866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheX4pcUYVsinNWElkeFHRE965tp-f6FM4TjJcgtvmK3j4TVuqDokpC0jm0itZ7ETeRstLkage_tBXQHUuOPDK-KM7uVEdkBD4UbuCrGMHnJkvWp1FNjIwsJsS70Y1Ujcu_eMVGXNB7RL_C/s640/IMG_9866.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Melia azedarach.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfxgG-LCi7vR_jxbbl5kXTEQrwdkvj7DbTyteziIxKXT1KkXFA5avHLAf37Y_jTjfn4VDwQ0gOpBT7ketB4iE6Qr23j_VscrDnqmSnHqpo6-4o46zyFyMEVganHrxxOPkaqqrsy-M1oCq/s1600/IMG_9867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfxgG-LCi7vR_jxbbl5kXTEQrwdkvj7DbTyteziIxKXT1KkXFA5avHLAf37Y_jTjfn4VDwQ0gOpBT7ketB4iE6Qr23j_VscrDnqmSnHqpo6-4o46zyFyMEVganHrxxOPkaqqrsy-M1oCq/s640/IMG_9867.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Plumeria </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZk2MD5Xl-MThd-TApbOEo31-HPuzhPOMPDo1ZHrUzJ5ybST8l5R0oI3fkW2TA3448PAYXsk87vr9HP275cRW_dZiYRBID8vowA5629lSceh0eUxKGS-wkZVgREIf3IoAtb3YeKN34_FR/s1600/IMG_9871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZk2MD5Xl-MThd-TApbOEo31-HPuzhPOMPDo1ZHrUzJ5ybST8l5R0oI3fkW2TA3448PAYXsk87vr9HP275cRW_dZiYRBID8vowA5629lSceh0eUxKGS-wkZVgREIf3IoAtb3YeKN34_FR/s640/IMG_9871.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Apocynaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhACKCWwDLPxSW1sRc6w6jPT5Hu1Z7FNANFh51y8yi4acYsxU6QF74Od7peEaMRUmkhCJhp1A9qvpWNpbv7PeHh2fiODvJHbdTHaeXV154uugSPmu1M2Hp3sNzzAhQSBvvG_b7CDKtm9po/s1600/IMG_9876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhACKCWwDLPxSW1sRc6w6jPT5Hu1Z7FNANFh51y8yi4acYsxU6QF74Od7peEaMRUmkhCJhp1A9qvpWNpbv7PeHh2fiODvJHbdTHaeXV154uugSPmu1M2Hp3sNzzAhQSBvvG_b7CDKtm9po/s640/IMG_9876.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUW0SPoLtPxs-YTQynEcpT8dONiygADLVGTqv2qV8GIZutrUJmuFvxElCD_hv-4BsIuL8i_4yD3TpNaz8TjWe_rlALtBjlVEgapjVgLwrHws6F2VZrl57PBloE7s1v4nBGrQElzQyLEnS/s1600/IMG_9879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUW0SPoLtPxs-YTQynEcpT8dONiygADLVGTqv2qV8GIZutrUJmuFvxElCD_hv-4BsIuL8i_4yD3TpNaz8TjWe_rlALtBjlVEgapjVgLwrHws6F2VZrl57PBloE7s1v4nBGrQElzQyLEnS/s640/IMG_9879.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Kalanchoe </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCWUo-cB8csrXo2ZSXjKTm1ADzMY8QdX08_nj8p3jvxDiAATEJGGNfAytVp6JbML_AFfWE2uvQNWY_zi9KY35Es2pPCR8grBhwJjHJlQQ8Pm4QIQI4MlIMd_c-8dMz8Fh7s6gTbmYR7pgh/s1600/IMG_9882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCWUo-cB8csrXo2ZSXjKTm1ADzMY8QdX08_nj8p3jvxDiAATEJGGNfAytVp6JbML_AFfWE2uvQNWY_zi9KY35Es2pPCR8grBhwJjHJlQQ8Pm4QIQI4MlIMd_c-8dMz8Fh7s6gTbmYR7pgh/s640/IMG_9882.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Papaver rhoeas.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3O9KcyHiZn4Re6ZPXjTdQrYae9_k2743m_odJCeX-C2JF3FTeBnYsjntMVhyPnZAPzy-ChqyUAPIMgm4R3R_MLK4oK3_OLse2D8kxdszOvh62B0yD2-6Csqd9_8LGLcmCGQFN9zWosNwU/s1600/IMG_9883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3O9KcyHiZn4Re6ZPXjTdQrYae9_k2743m_odJCeX-C2JF3FTeBnYsjntMVhyPnZAPzy-ChqyUAPIMgm4R3R_MLK4oK3_OLse2D8kxdszOvh62B0yD2-6Csqd9_8LGLcmCGQFN9zWosNwU/s640/IMG_9883.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPoGAbYHuTSD8pYe5PXWavi1cDd4-k6MfplTtr3_4JQ_K1TBbVxnZPri4gWt2akq-ThEbZiGYKOPZ_u1ZQ_uDF_X3XYPoTdElYkcN0fBKTWpwmg298Z3cgEw0WxOv5RKDwJXXj2pZzzfx/s1600/IMG_9884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPoGAbYHuTSD8pYe5PXWavi1cDd4-k6MfplTtr3_4JQ_K1TBbVxnZPri4gWt2akq-ThEbZiGYKOPZ_u1ZQ_uDF_X3XYPoTdElYkcN0fBKTWpwmg298Z3cgEw0WxOv5RKDwJXXj2pZzzfx/s640/IMG_9884.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Oenothera </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0QyX0VtDuYt8dck-5q3ZYd2n-0Aw_Xn0AFXnsBCDB82un8HLyZJf9MhxpfJrSC2U44ytXLtfGY_xrBujllap-34sZ08XyxDrswieA-YoIrnqv-Mt26PZzvotVNVJGB0kM9F4hvHYf55Q/s1600/IMG_9885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0QyX0VtDuYt8dck-5q3ZYd2n-0Aw_Xn0AFXnsBCDB82un8HLyZJf9MhxpfJrSC2U44ytXLtfGY_xrBujllap-34sZ08XyxDrswieA-YoIrnqv-Mt26PZzvotVNVJGB0kM9F4hvHYf55Q/s640/IMG_9885.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Bauhinia</i> sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPRaqBuGOPX8MIYt3DevGcn8eEi0SpbdjA1vUyjRd8TOVc30MIcir5G9jmBG-QCAP-V_d4OwyNu51g5WoUV1-RP2hj8GYjTVh2WF4eKqb3mgjWhBgwxQIaoNfx86VceZc7lFZiZL4V94QE/s1600/IMG_9888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPRaqBuGOPX8MIYt3DevGcn8eEi0SpbdjA1vUyjRd8TOVc30MIcir5G9jmBG-QCAP-V_d4OwyNu51g5WoUV1-RP2hj8GYjTVh2WF4eKqb3mgjWhBgwxQIaoNfx86VceZc7lFZiZL4V94QE/s640/IMG_9888.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Punica granatum.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGezoAckEx0vm-CeJeblqH4TdDFrgLDcUQ3O0X5tItljwmz1t-f7qH_IRAThYNbKgDT0LdXDWKk-dTYrf60bB6wVPOFJQD-Q3yiUeGWLhyUougm0QUEybb2VotJ3pfrsi6FdEdz1vDtIsw/s1600/IMG_9891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGezoAckEx0vm-CeJeblqH4TdDFrgLDcUQ3O0X5tItljwmz1t-f7qH_IRAThYNbKgDT0LdXDWKk-dTYrf60bB6wVPOFJQD-Q3yiUeGWLhyUougm0QUEybb2VotJ3pfrsi6FdEdz1vDtIsw/s640/IMG_9891.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Malvaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmZ9hSMXXiPvkHLl3E2jv7PLCfD4wZzrjgdSy8GbdprIzLpZWAFLCskeem_rgQilpnTc47OwTjRTpP_MtWM_Qk_280Y9INrCZMzNfwcg3ROV7E9QXczCwL-NP-YQp2TrL-Rs2Uj_Edhc4/s1600/IMG_9892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmZ9hSMXXiPvkHLl3E2jv7PLCfD4wZzrjgdSy8GbdprIzLpZWAFLCskeem_rgQilpnTc47OwTjRTpP_MtWM_Qk_280Y9INrCZMzNfwcg3ROV7E9QXczCwL-NP-YQp2TrL-Rs2Uj_Edhc4/s640/IMG_9892.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Pelargonium </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOCOT6OF5PfpsFinktGBPDaLJnQ-yDLpyeQciSHE4t8ujp4-hXYYpSyRm9iwTpv7989ZKM_Pv6TzfXjPAjX1VteDNVZFniEcjxtTxz3tD0czMobod5Im1oVXlW-IwDsadOWl7vDwLMh0E/s1600/IMG_9900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOCOT6OF5PfpsFinktGBPDaLJnQ-yDLpyeQciSHE4t8ujp4-hXYYpSyRm9iwTpv7989ZKM_Pv6TzfXjPAjX1VteDNVZFniEcjxtTxz3tD0czMobod5Im1oVXlW-IwDsadOWl7vDwLMh0E/s640/IMG_9900.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fabaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpV0aia9U4t0Ehz-yec_nPVgpIn_U45TysxDVg-amO-et-HkJ7Xz7DmGDRPNyh5oEYEKKwMFFb0LViUfs2Na_UuXC9ywtSTaW50fDG88caW9uy-a6aSVL1Lh4_bfNTFsY7aTrans9wocZ/s1600/IMG_9905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpV0aia9U4t0Ehz-yec_nPVgpIn_U45TysxDVg-amO-et-HkJ7Xz7DmGDRPNyh5oEYEKKwMFFb0LViUfs2Na_UuXC9ywtSTaW50fDG88caW9uy-a6aSVL1Lh4_bfNTFsY7aTrans9wocZ/s640/IMG_9905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVasi86zwGmzRjsCkt6nRGGGiV9E1pAHqpOlmf4oHXWsDaJpBiHA-l1WHhSH0sieGFz_toMN2CRIxVLXQLhvIEZyHagtJtwa3bWUbVsYPqgze8IRzXgXWuhjR7DC8m5MbgW2YEFDPDt0cP/s1600/IMG_9911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVasi86zwGmzRjsCkt6nRGGGiV9E1pAHqpOlmf4oHXWsDaJpBiHA-l1WHhSH0sieGFz_toMN2CRIxVLXQLhvIEZyHagtJtwa3bWUbVsYPqgze8IRzXgXWuhjR7DC8m5MbgW2YEFDPDt0cP/s640/IMG_9911.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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"Fumariaceae" sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhenNaTMO8Nb5TbNjHz2Cc_344oxsGTxytI7L9CThBplEsrhkGQBZkFbBVuMTIzsn-HCuV9Rs4KpNE8kch2f_Laxm5WmEQwaV9oiI8hLlfSh6V3CtDAjtem0GrwIzKup4zDd3pE5HKfC43O/s1600/IMG_9912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhenNaTMO8Nb5TbNjHz2Cc_344oxsGTxytI7L9CThBplEsrhkGQBZkFbBVuMTIzsn-HCuV9Rs4KpNE8kch2f_Laxm5WmEQwaV9oiI8hLlfSh6V3CtDAjtem0GrwIzKup4zDd3pE5HKfC43O/s640/IMG_9912.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibDJhMcvuX2yJ3cAq95vHcapNyL5LZ_cvoQj0t7bMCvPGQsaQ7zaMKVGwxvBN28ldNXFPApICK9UoS01WrekoyXzLTAaCM-4MUmAdkOtb0axwzKzNpAFINV-Vr92S8ow8rR-YJvt1Ou5RX/s1600/IMG_9914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibDJhMcvuX2yJ3cAq95vHcapNyL5LZ_cvoQj0t7bMCvPGQsaQ7zaMKVGwxvBN28ldNXFPApICK9UoS01WrekoyXzLTAaCM-4MUmAdkOtb0axwzKzNpAFINV-Vr92S8ow8rR-YJvt1Ou5RX/s640/IMG_9914.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFNENqekEG9V9ZohfLcfNk7Z7iUTb1KJvR93gAcPITlg7682Xq_q5F74z5NBmk0l8iQVmF5JpgHfDZxo29-zEg8-6vbwHSlTHZy_LyhpoPyM3wl9vldthYwLNEbdZCEXHnhEUtJy0ecC_p/s1600/IMG_9917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFNENqekEG9V9ZohfLcfNk7Z7iUTb1KJvR93gAcPITlg7682Xq_q5F74z5NBmk0l8iQVmF5JpgHfDZxo29-zEg8-6vbwHSlTHZy_LyhpoPyM3wl9vldthYwLNEbdZCEXHnhEUtJy0ecC_p/s640/IMG_9917.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Myrtaceae, perhaps <i>Callistemon</i> sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7FtBmsc64etQkudUvCGU4rJ_FtjxGPfreiWpdxdJiYcdVQAUYf9te5wYcptmavGWGFWjaOcgYYAWi8zysnQsiNEHcFKmdMHFv7yPFccU7HqtafuXG9TB-FA_Q7Y0w6UrSebGaOj39smN/s1600/IMG_9919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7FtBmsc64etQkudUvCGU4rJ_FtjxGPfreiWpdxdJiYcdVQAUYf9te5wYcptmavGWGFWjaOcgYYAWi8zysnQsiNEHcFKmdMHFv7yPFccU7HqtafuXG9TB-FA_Q7Y0w6UrSebGaOj39smN/s640/IMG_9919.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Onagraceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYh383ovyWwlTx1gvSIlyOAF2Y5iBwFIvau8vAV8oPf9KWa06lJajuPlZf4go-v-oI9rFBGwor-TdgRM3vjvAlpH7eJ-_k9rXUcSdBJDOjWjr16Ckmqi6nZQiSD5ntn5pOyBe0Y8Wa3iZ/s1600/IMG_9920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYh383ovyWwlTx1gvSIlyOAF2Y5iBwFIvau8vAV8oPf9KWa06lJajuPlZf4go-v-oI9rFBGwor-TdgRM3vjvAlpH7eJ-_k9rXUcSdBJDOjWjr16Ckmqi6nZQiSD5ntn5pOyBe0Y8Wa3iZ/s640/IMG_9920.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Petunia </i>hybrid, Solanaceae.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwHyhA9fM6qVntUiJG_u9MVl5TASiLUpGLCgz1x0cU-lZr_dBBVhYeH6dP7ypAGHK27K_48uzqqdT3Wnga-YS5GfjBwt0EBFxzZ5N68hrabr7Mv_KglzeLK3OH5hDzAxFBucFmS3kukdY/s1600/IMG_9924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwHyhA9fM6qVntUiJG_u9MVl5TASiLUpGLCgz1x0cU-lZr_dBBVhYeH6dP7ypAGHK27K_48uzqqdT3Wnga-YS5GfjBwt0EBFxzZ5N68hrabr7Mv_KglzeLK3OH5hDzAxFBucFmS3kukdY/s640/IMG_9924.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Acanthaceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejFO9kFNy8DJmEGcilF181TzhU8PJXmTfuKAT88rsrOxs6yp_YNV9OgoXEodsCrxU-tuu_nztdNoAlSDsxyrQaH6ZQcfp7YO3lIJuJQcDtTn2bGPwrg_iyZFEQ9L-4NuWrOEgTW7l9EVl/s1600/IMG_9926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejFO9kFNy8DJmEGcilF181TzhU8PJXmTfuKAT88rsrOxs6yp_YNV9OgoXEodsCrxU-tuu_nztdNoAlSDsxyrQaH6ZQcfp7YO3lIJuJQcDtTn2bGPwrg_iyZFEQ9L-4NuWrOEgTW7l9EVl/s640/IMG_9926.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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???</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWlYEt24CF1d4blMn7rUq40Qd0Fwc-a9B7vXj2T-jiGbMgOLhuKKUymvdZDD0Y8IZFJePBGtXx9ZmOibhtf8eLKxGWyR0jVJaPves_Hc9u1ugP5bYuqnoxfCQAWd5fozYophVfDZ5eI5dd/s1600/IMG_9928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWlYEt24CF1d4blMn7rUq40Qd0Fwc-a9B7vXj2T-jiGbMgOLhuKKUymvdZDD0Y8IZFJePBGtXx9ZmOibhtf8eLKxGWyR0jVJaPves_Hc9u1ugP5bYuqnoxfCQAWd5fozYophVfDZ5eI5dd/s640/IMG_9928.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8FAY41vfsDbOy1yrxonlU9rPkQuI8ynvchrFilaMRmOLjQnBp7LGioozWhJKqE75sxkNxgu8r3n8XRT4URVYL4L7GEHIeomW5DSJh90rvPWBg8alyhTt8-hcoVII8qIhJs7g2sq4Rry5N/s1600/IMG_9934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8FAY41vfsDbOy1yrxonlU9rPkQuI8ynvchrFilaMRmOLjQnBp7LGioozWhJKqE75sxkNxgu8r3n8XRT4URVYL4L7GEHIeomW5DSJh90rvPWBg8alyhTt8-hcoVII8qIhJs7g2sq4Rry5N/s640/IMG_9934.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Amaryllis, in the genus <i>Hippeastrum</i>.</div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<i>Vinca </i>sp., Apocynaceae.</div>
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<i>Verbena </i>sp.</div>
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<i>Phlomis </i>sp., Lamiaceae.</div>
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<i>Euphorbia </i>sp.</div>
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Asteraceae sp.</div>
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<i>Canna </i>sp.</div>
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Rubiaceae sp.</div>
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<i>Ranunculus </i>sp.</div>
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Convolulaceae sp.</div>
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<i>Ornithogalum </i>sp.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-1899671817176152402018-02-14T08:25:00.002-08:002019-06-14T07:35:09.024-07:00My Encounters with Turkish Reptiles and Amphibians<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I </span>wouldn't be exaggerating if I said that <b>reptiles and amphibians</b> were my favourite animals. Wherever I go, I try to find them, catch them, and photograph them. (I used to keep them as pets too, but gave up after realising how distressing it was for the animals themselves.) '<b>Field herping</b>', as enthusiasts call it, is a great hobby, full of discoveries and wonder.</div>
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I register all herptile photos I take at the <a href="http://www.turkherptil.org/GozlemFoto.asp?UyeId=1319&Durum=6" target="_blank"><b>ADAMEROS - The The Amphibian and Reptile Monitoring & Photography Society of Turkey</b>.</a> There they are catalogued with the associated date, habitat, location and altitude data; an ever-growing, cross-indexed, multi-authored volume of field observations.</div>
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I recently decided to mirror my ADAMEROS herptile gallery on this blog, not just for posterity, but also to add further personal notes and context. I think that each reptilian encounter also has a neat story behind it. I'll keep updating this page often, so keep checking back... Without further adieu and in no particular order, here we go - down memory lane with my encounters with Turkish reptiles and amphibians!</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<b>Worm snake</b></div>
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<i>Xerotyphlops vermicularis</i></div>
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Tekirova - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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26.4.2016 | Altitude: 5 m.</div>
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I saw this guy on a trekking trip, under a stone near some Eucalyptus trees. Blindsnakes are completely harmless - most people don't even register them as serpents, but think them to be big "worms." Without limbs, tails, ears and even eyes, they are among the most minimal of all backboned animals.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<b>Rock agama</b></div>
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<i>Stellagama stellio</i></div>
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Şirince - IZMIR / TURKEY</div>
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24.4.2013 | Altitude: 350 m.</div>
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My wife and I saw this agama on a countryside walk near Şirince, a touristic destination famous for its pioneering boutique hotels and imitation wine. It was perched on a garden wall, surveying its dominions like a lordly prince. Rock agamas are very common in Southwestern Turkey. I thought them to be 'giant iguanas' when I saw my first agama as a child. I spent a considerable part of my childhood vacations trying to catch them - but these guys are extremely alert, fast, and as I learnt in a painful lesson - they <i>will </i>bite if you succeed in grasping them.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUeTd6UnrN1M4iOt4COzCogg4RTsW1s74muqiPlBAPk04Xbqz9Mw1JliqZwhrloJ3RRILCcWi9Bh5UpjtHr3nRsE5PWLl37yp_Wkhyt53VA_L_2i1iMznBm4PF_c3WPaFQMJy5-TzSSZH6/s1600/Stellagama+stellio+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUeTd6UnrN1M4iOt4COzCogg4RTsW1s74muqiPlBAPk04Xbqz9Mw1JliqZwhrloJ3RRILCcWi9Bh5UpjtHr3nRsE5PWLl37yp_Wkhyt53VA_L_2i1iMznBm4PF_c3WPaFQMJy5-TzSSZH6/s640/Stellagama+stellio+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Rock agama</b></div>
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<i>Stellagama stellio</i></div>
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Salamis - NORTH CYPRUS</div>
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23.5.2015 | Altitude: 6 m.</div>
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Another agama, of a different colour, from Cyprus. Mediterranean agamas are quite varied in their colours. There are grey agamas, bluish-headed ones, dark ones... I couldn't figure out if this whitish variety was endemic to Cyprus; or if its colour was a trait brought about by age and gender. It was quite big, and looked fat and well-fed.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBPVZWGOOZ6dsaRJz9h_pMiFtqFbdkcAgRqcL_d98P_oN-XRsiAgC_PqLRq7syl4KJTITWzi9NCj0YTmwAnrA25HN_xwT6w1ihXHv4R45euvDjALHUVbuOv1ry5ahW4GtcWc8RWjN35Rfj/s1600/Podarcis+tauricus.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBPVZWGOOZ6dsaRJz9h_pMiFtqFbdkcAgRqcL_d98P_oN-XRsiAgC_PqLRq7syl4KJTITWzi9NCj0YTmwAnrA25HN_xwT6w1ihXHv4R45euvDjALHUVbuOv1ry5ahW4GtcWc8RWjN35Rfj/s640/Podarcis+tauricus.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Balkan wall lizard</b></div>
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<i>Podarcis tauricus</i></div>
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Tuzla - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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12.9.2006 | Altitude: 19 m.</div>
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These lizards were very common on the meadows around my old high school. I frequently caught them, and kept them as pets before releasing them back to nature at the end of the semester. I photographed this vibrantly-coloured male in my terrarium - one of my first experiments with animal photography. It was a joy to watch this lizard prowl around its enclosure, and eat the small insects I fed it every now and then.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPh3flBLC_PUkYSGU0kbYD6xd434zEEDUaOF4hla2yrYW_qCCKDcZrwQnXTWXjFCC-pBmbAIcmUlp3fNcWSkDVnzZf5HZJVk2oUWRxfVh7DsCji1cOiWM6ccbLCnF551t7EEuDivuXIy_/s1600/Podarcis+siculus+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPh3flBLC_PUkYSGU0kbYD6xd434zEEDUaOF4hla2yrYW_qCCKDcZrwQnXTWXjFCC-pBmbAIcmUlp3fNcWSkDVnzZf5HZJVk2oUWRxfVh7DsCji1cOiWM6ccbLCnF551t7EEuDivuXIy_/s640/Podarcis+siculus+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Italian wall lizard</b></div>
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<i>Podarcis siculus</i></div>
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Üsküdar - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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15.6.2015 | Altitude: 40 m.</div>
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Italian wall lizards are urban relatives of the meadow-dwelling Balkan lizards you saw above. Aside from Italy, they are present in the vicinity of Istanbul, but not in the surrounding countryside - which leads to the conclusion that they were introduced to the city from central Italy sometime in the past. They are not scared of people, and the males, such as this guy, are attractive customers with their black-and-green patterns.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIz6xrw8DC1uDx_0mfAJZVouZmSIDFoNMxYcDFLBPbCqVZBbEgnC1aGF-hKQ5zgiMVzzhF1yih3hFBqi160kfV8B7PVHXUe7LIBudQ8UawRZHf-EkPKusi-P4pELIK9JyPtEruMKE-fAd/s1600/Podarcis+siculus+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIz6xrw8DC1uDx_0mfAJZVouZmSIDFoNMxYcDFLBPbCqVZBbEgnC1aGF-hKQ5zgiMVzzhF1yih3hFBqi160kfV8B7PVHXUe7LIBudQ8UawRZHf-EkPKusi-P4pELIK9JyPtEruMKE-fAd/s640/Podarcis+siculus+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Italian wall lizard</b></div>
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<i>Podarcis siculus</i></div>
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Bağlarbaşı - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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29.8.2011 | Altitude: 80 m.</div>
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Another Italian wall lizard, a female or an immature male, judging from its muted colours and smallish head. I saw this guy on an old Armenian Cemetery - the tombstone it was resting on was more than two centuries old.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf1g1v8YvOWovQRDrlfRCd0Zmg2jzX_sNaWeES2ZY99W_nn5vap273IpEw8Jt-7ueHXyl6bTD0oqk4-dGGCJEctTs3wnAXb6efV-0YxNaBP7_H4bojcUqaHAW6eMRI3qR-51RYUagjUkR7/s1600/Phoenicolacerta+laevis+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf1g1v8YvOWovQRDrlfRCd0Zmg2jzX_sNaWeES2ZY99W_nn5vap273IpEw8Jt-7ueHXyl6bTD0oqk4-dGGCJEctTs3wnAXb6efV-0YxNaBP7_H4bojcUqaHAW6eMRI3qR-51RYUagjUkR7/s640/Phoenicolacerta+laevis+02.png" width="480" /></a></div>
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<b>Phoenician </b><b>lizard</b></div>
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<i>Phoenicolacerta laevis</i></div>
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Köyceğiz - MUĞLA / TURKEY</div>
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13.6.2016 | Altitude: 8 m.</div>
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A completely different lacertid - the Phoenician lizard is one of the dozen-or-so small lizards native to Turkey. The classification of these overlapping, similar "species" keeps changing every few years. I saw this variety only in Köyceğiz, in Southern Turkey, in a grove of endangered sweetgum trees, <i>Liquidambar sp.</i> The males had very bright colours. The biggest "alpha" males, like this one, had big bluish heads, striking ocellated patterns and fiery undersides.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYKOkJhRkeeZpt1AFGUDM12RASpbQMDAavyIoDtsK5kI0XQz85aCah0rR5HDTNzoI7M-zDW2WGSejOqHGhC1VGIOQ-Ng4bwkdgqhhiKdX4cwk11Q9Hq_iMvqZljSmNvMiB2Rf6m3Au6wtd/s1600/Phoenicolacerta+laevis+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYKOkJhRkeeZpt1AFGUDM12RASpbQMDAavyIoDtsK5kI0XQz85aCah0rR5HDTNzoI7M-zDW2WGSejOqHGhC1VGIOQ-Ng4bwkdgqhhiKdX4cwk11Q9Hq_iMvqZljSmNvMiB2Rf6m3Au6wtd/s640/Phoenicolacerta+laevis+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Phoenician lizard</b></div>
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<i>Phoenicolacerta laevis</i></div>
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Köyceğiz - MUĞLA / TURKEY</div>
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13.6.2016 | Altitude: 3 m.</div>
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Two more Phoenician lizards from the same excursion in Köyceğiz. The brown one was the female, and she did not seem terribly impressed by the low-contrast, gray-and-yellow "beta" male that kept trying to mate with her.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5C2cZ4NMvjTeCXBpOMSXA_elyGEtD7S_4HtmoQRxSXsodpvCIta1BMN9MWyxw1QTJLmHh9K8KGtt7qf3HExkvw_OKeoynW7n9gzCbvO_tacXnBkqR_tCeIihxXLKVc_vEK6oL6-EcKlqH/s1600/Pelophylax+bedriagae.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5C2cZ4NMvjTeCXBpOMSXA_elyGEtD7S_4HtmoQRxSXsodpvCIta1BMN9MWyxw1QTJLmHh9K8KGtt7qf3HExkvw_OKeoynW7n9gzCbvO_tacXnBkqR_tCeIihxXLKVc_vEK6oL6-EcKlqH/s640/Pelophylax+bedriagae.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Levantine marsh frog</b></div>
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<i>Pelophylax bedriagae</i></div>
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Tekirova - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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27.4.2016 | Altitude: 30 m.</div>
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I saw this marsh frog when I was about to get lost on a trekking excursion. <b>(<a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com/2016/06/three-days-on-lycian-trail.html" target="_blank">Long story</a>...) </b>These guys are one of the eight-odd species of Ranid water frogs native to Turkey. They occur in almost every pond, river or open-air sewer, especially in spring; but their numbers seem to be decreasing in recent decades. This guy was sitting in a puddle of water that had accumulated in a tyre track on a muddy road. It kept staring at me with the immobile, idiot/savant glance only frogs can wield.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUT7Cu6NmW71NA7KHdtMSBZSy4wEF6WRLStxIGm4Q03lHbsN2ROnqB0XpF8xzFgAKSkL9djA1wC40-1qgw5V1EP5k65jI7Dn6fBiqKnZMFbNmjac6uQrRajTLKvbEV43L15tQFbVmXqU0p/s1600/Ophisops+elegans+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUT7Cu6NmW71NA7KHdtMSBZSy4wEF6WRLStxIGm4Q03lHbsN2ROnqB0XpF8xzFgAKSkL9djA1wC40-1qgw5V1EP5k65jI7Dn6fBiqKnZMFbNmjac6uQrRajTLKvbEV43L15tQFbVmXqU0p/s640/Ophisops+elegans+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Snake-eyed lizard</b></div>
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<i>Ophisops elegans</i></div>
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Rizokarpaso (Dipkarpaz) - NORTH CYPRUS</div>
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24.4.2015 | Altitude: 160 m.</div>
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A distinct lizard among all other Turkish lacertids is the snake-eyed lizard; immediately noticeable with its short, "gracile" face and its lidless eyes. Well, their eyes aren't actually lidless; instead the eyelid has become transparent and fused in a shut position in a macabre twist of evolution. This configuration makes the animals' lives easier as they burrow underground. I saw this guy basking near an old school in North Cyprus.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfgdPNooHtXpc9wq3UaOnUBvz89GsSzxY0oMqf7eG942FaXIhTNcCBiYhBH8SN86_8P6Ps00dgui4BYxl80uFRKqTB7yMRYapgSKiXyVMRmvnGTwPdpCTsQS_ohTcRXPHoQhq55zhuUQ3/s1600/Ophisops+elegans+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfgdPNooHtXpc9wq3UaOnUBvz89GsSzxY0oMqf7eG942FaXIhTNcCBiYhBH8SN86_8P6Ps00dgui4BYxl80uFRKqTB7yMRYapgSKiXyVMRmvnGTwPdpCTsQS_ohTcRXPHoQhq55zhuUQ3/s640/Ophisops+elegans+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Snake-eyed lizard</b></div>
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<i>Ophisops elegans</i></div>
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Seyitören - ESKİŞEHİR / TURKEY</div>
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8.5.2017 | Altitude: 800 m.</div>
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The snake-eyed lizard ranges far and wide across Eurasia. I saw this colourful male in mainland Anatolia - on a field trip outside the city of Eskişehir. A local university had invited me to give a talk on my artwork; and I had spent a wonderful day, surrounded by young fans and admirers. I decided to crown the experience by hiring a car and driving around the surrounding countryside, looking for places to explore. The weather wasn't very warm - yet these lizards were still out and scuttling about, looking for insects to eat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UKSlGJUVUdE7hd_XF56gZYDKj5ExFv9PfTSrRcUoI02JtXheCtkeEz7PVg5LPvNfKSvPd2jF4eqaeJKrAja177HukgsZXA-iODEa_muiUgMyCcmThmeYxpSVIP3Eu9TxWZhsIEE2QYji/s1600/Ophisops+elegans+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1098" data-original-width="1600" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UKSlGJUVUdE7hd_XF56gZYDKj5ExFv9PfTSrRcUoI02JtXheCtkeEz7PVg5LPvNfKSvPd2jF4eqaeJKrAja177HukgsZXA-iODEa_muiUgMyCcmThmeYxpSVIP3Eu9TxWZhsIEE2QYji/s640/Ophisops+elegans+03.jpg" width="640" /></a><b>Snake-eyed lizard</b><i> <br />Ophisops elegans</i></div>
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Şirince - İZMİR / TURKEY</div>
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25.8.2018 | Altitude: 366 m.<br />
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I managed to photograph another snake eyed lizard, a juvenile, while walking on the hills overlooking the town of Şirince with my friends. The underbrush was crawling with these guys, but they were so fast that it was nearly impossible to photograph them. I adopted a "zoom, spray and pray" method, and managed to capture this lucky shot. As you can see, the juveniles of this species are lighter, and more yellowish-brown in colour. This shot also neatly captures the jumbled, multi-dimensional, world of plant stems, seeds, rocks, moss and other debris that small animals like this inhabit. Such a perspective of life must be radically different from that of macrofaunal mammals like us.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsJ3CsN3qyLU1TUY7hjnhF1erX2s45TpMMIPku9XKHYjpKW6c0uxE5d4Pt_Ty1RMhNbhkkBLKL0yzfun5rEikymOYo6GV4gERMgx6mKt2gnknOQ19jLrR94GRw2JmZa2QreXkDr89LOV8H/s1600/Mediodactylus+kotschyi+03.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsJ3CsN3qyLU1TUY7hjnhF1erX2s45TpMMIPku9XKHYjpKW6c0uxE5d4Pt_Ty1RMhNbhkkBLKL0yzfun5rEikymOYo6GV4gERMgx6mKt2gnknOQ19jLrR94GRw2JmZa2QreXkDr89LOV8H/s640/Mediodactylus+kotschyi+03.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Kotschy's gecko</b></div>
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<i>Mediodactylus kotschyi</i></div>
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Bağlarbaşı - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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9.6.2010 | Altitude: 120 m.</div>
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<a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2016/01/three-species-of-mediterranean-geckos.html" target="_blank"><b>Geckos have a special place in my heart</b></a> among Turkey's herpetofauna. Kotschy's geckos are very easy to identify with their un-gecko-like feet, which lack the characteristic adhesive pads. Instead, they have long and kinky fingers that enable them to grip irregularities on walls. I saw this guy just outside my family home in Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHl_uJkX1uSqteKgaiImheb2KPkkUrENpMmXqQs023zmFcd5rRB1jg9ETbCvXdeJy_DKxZzUmvCkSKg5rkdNMbYUq2jdvooFcZyrgKnVegZZwTKjNNd8zMDEJQ_-YrE63ZYqO58dGXbDW/s1600/Mediodactylus+kotschyi+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHl_uJkX1uSqteKgaiImheb2KPkkUrENpMmXqQs023zmFcd5rRB1jg9ETbCvXdeJy_DKxZzUmvCkSKg5rkdNMbYUq2jdvooFcZyrgKnVegZZwTKjNNd8zMDEJQ_-YrE63ZYqO58dGXbDW/s640/Mediodactylus+kotschyi+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Kotschy's gecko</b></div>
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<i>Mediodactylus kotschyi</i></div>
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Mt. Tahtalı - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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15.5.2015 | Altitude: 800 m.</div>
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Another Kotschy's gecko, from Antalya. This youngster posed like a miniature dragon.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihN603SAS5j1bBv-k60yyMI_9rw6PMxO921DU4W7ekVtl9HaIpx4pATrucziYEQPI0EwLSvZmyVxMvYh0jMZ3q-OysogsIp9fcHVluA24NCQksV-ClsJG7zj6FcXjhQdJGedbRuZ0QDgk/s1600/Mediodactylus+kotschyi+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihN603SAS5j1bBv-k60yyMI_9rw6PMxO921DU4W7ekVtl9HaIpx4pATrucziYEQPI0EwLSvZmyVxMvYh0jMZ3q-OysogsIp9fcHVluA24NCQksV-ClsJG7zj6FcXjhQdJGedbRuZ0QDgk/s640/Mediodactylus+kotschyi+01.png" width="460" /></a></div>
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<b>Kotschy's gecko</b></div>
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<i>Mediodactylus kotschyi</i></div>
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Göynük - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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25.4.2016 | Altitude: 60 m.</div>
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This particular gecko I encountered while trekking was posing upside-down on a plant stem, apparently trying to disguise itself. I'd never seen kinky-toed geckos pose this way... Its behaviour intrigued me so much that I wrote a short scientific note about it - and<i> voila -</i> my<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xl13jhD7k1IHCpqXbehIkwiq0sY6gD5l" target="_blank"> observation was published in a herpetology journal!</a> :) A small step for herpetology, a giant leap for me...</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdQwoq5upE4iEqGjZHZw9tbHgbQBHccry5yRGSkeozXYtPy4O5OWYVXaB6JNu-BEorkZrRJryJdjQs0NXDwKqji-trUa-U8YIpNwyjhEIDZfgcK-42kP41G2-fv9VIRD3m2Wnt64qtGZe/s1600/med01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdQwoq5upE4iEqGjZHZw9tbHgbQBHccry5yRGSkeozXYtPy4O5OWYVXaB6JNu-BEorkZrRJryJdjQs0NXDwKqji-trUa-U8YIpNwyjhEIDZfgcK-42kP41G2-fv9VIRD3m2Wnt64qtGZe/s640/med01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcZFRQpydWslt7P0u3bWoGuSd7pRbi-_Gb8YAqStVSKastK3h_HuEALimdq3vBSPZPJ0Msa68Cg7OB0xZpPEpyFD3FPRhOJ2COvpE5RQZLDOA1YaVYfF-lBYfHPYdfAhK1yyjhIEmIr-f/s1600/med02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcZFRQpydWslt7P0u3bWoGuSd7pRbi-_Gb8YAqStVSKastK3h_HuEALimdq3vBSPZPJ0Msa68Cg7OB0xZpPEpyFD3FPRhOJ2COvpE5RQZLDOA1YaVYfF-lBYfHPYdfAhK1yyjhIEmIr-f/s640/med02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWqXd4fBVzbLh2Jm-hBBGMf8aXnv_chuNUHr81N3OEKdUaHHaG3WB_0_0w97f5iuD7ikSlFCSi1RPKsyD4yiIED0haYYYkN6vEbb7oD417slptj-mq3XKBhaUQ_1712pEygWLUv6BdzriJ/s1600/med03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWqXd4fBVzbLh2Jm-hBBGMf8aXnv_chuNUHr81N3OEKdUaHHaG3WB_0_0w97f5iuD7ikSlFCSi1RPKsyD4yiIED0haYYYkN6vEbb7oD417slptj-mq3XKBhaUQ_1712pEygWLUv6BdzriJ/s640/med03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Anatolian thin-toed gecko</b></div>
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<i>Mediodactylus heterocercum</i></div>
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Mardin - MARDIN / TURKEY</div>
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25.4.2016 | Altitude: 60 m.</div>
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On a trip to the Southeastern Turkish city of Mardin in September, 2018, I had the chance to observe the Anatolian thin-toed geckos, <b>Mediodactylus heterocercum,</b> on the wall of a local cafe. They strongly resembled the related <b>M. kotschyi </b>with their naked, pad-less toes; but these animals were larger, and had a more "rugged" look with saw-edged scales. Their fat, scaly "lips" also gave them funny expressions.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9xCyj69AYpYmx1yjRRyB5rBO84DVPc9wyo29wotQRnfGjT8iBTu74K8tphxLsbOnHoFOOe3lCSTe8Jf-H8JlEJ-BMn60bzKZaEx5SM9ofRCG9l7TTUIiDPxvQwEIrgvBIhn7rfUBi147/s1600/mardin___sahmaran_ustasi_by_esindevrim-d349j2u.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9xCyj69AYpYmx1yjRRyB5rBO84DVPc9wyo29wotQRnfGjT8iBTu74K8tphxLsbOnHoFOOe3lCSTe8Jf-H8JlEJ-BMn60bzKZaEx5SM9ofRCG9l7TTUIiDPxvQwEIrgvBIhn7rfUBi147/s320/mardin___sahmaran_ustasi_by_esindevrim-d349j2u.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Source: Deviantart.com / esindevrim</span><br />
<b>Mardin</b>, the city I saw these guys in, had an ancient subculture (now a touristic cottage-industry) based on the "<b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shahmaran" target="_blank">Şahmaran</a></b>", a mysterious, mythical snake-woman. These lizards, with their piercing stares, recalled the many "şahmaran" paintings we saw for sale in curio shops.<br />
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTZbbP_CvF_pJoeNFV3DCR52_Gd_Nj9_S3ps938oFY88-lLJ0KJxOKYjRQbLfdo9gubwnl_6-XqHwy_FHMqWL3zDWlhD_JvRfjZNE85aibZ4j-e5Zwf4-VE7vdEUvISZBonahCPEu4C6K/s1600/Mauremys+rivulata.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTZbbP_CvF_pJoeNFV3DCR52_Gd_Nj9_S3ps938oFY88-lLJ0KJxOKYjRQbLfdo9gubwnl_6-XqHwy_FHMqWL3zDWlhD_JvRfjZNE85aibZ4j-e5Zwf4-VE7vdEUvISZBonahCPEu4C6K/s640/Mauremys+rivulata.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Striped terrapin</b></div>
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<i>Mauremys rivulata</i></div>
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Köyceğiz - MUĞLA / TURKEY</div>
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13.6.2016 | Altitude: 2 m.</div>
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Turtles and terrapins are frequently overlooked as one searches for lizards and snakes. I saw this striped terrapin in Köyceğiz, in the waterside grove I'd seen the Phoenician wall lizards mentioned above. It quickly slid into a nearby pond and disappeared.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlftoKpuDpXN-ral71zJdRG_pf7A8AaRxdI_2dF0B-fmCNhPT9mO3CvL8yjYazRnvvTdS1sfT86hTWc4PQbiNfk7DDHFG7qUEKa0BCFn69xKgqEkYq9bFJdfXDW_j2HkEtWNi5HczWQ9uL/s1600/Malpolon+insignitus.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlftoKpuDpXN-ral71zJdRG_pf7A8AaRxdI_2dF0B-fmCNhPT9mO3CvL8yjYazRnvvTdS1sfT86hTWc4PQbiNfk7DDHFG7qUEKa0BCFn69xKgqEkYq9bFJdfXDW_j2HkEtWNi5HczWQ9uL/s640/Malpolon+insignitus.png" width="496" /></a></div>
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<b>Eastern Montpelier snake</b></div>
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<i>Malpolon insignitus</i></div>
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Sarayören - ESKİŞEHİR / TURKEY</div>
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8.5.2017 | Altitude: 800 m.</div>
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Snakes are enchanting creatures. I rarely get to see them, even though they are actually quite common outdoors. I saw this Montpelier snake during my field herping excursion near Eskişehir, while driving to a hill I wanted to climb. I immediately stopped the car and jumped out, camera in hand. The snake bolted after I took this picture. I instinctively ran after it - and after ten metres, it suddenly turned around with a hiss, and began chasing <i>me </i>instead. It was an thrilling adventure, but there was no real risk - the Montpelier snake, while mildly poisonous, was harmless. Much of its threatening behaviour was a bluff.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcsTiXhyphenhyphenCCZ1TYmddU63gvRCo4AzOzHQfv76QCPWmNAlHAMoSlgM74zMLZLfvbhjtb6ZEvUGfN1Gxjtg9rFQppY-DPD8L4QuOv_5Ud-8MUh8Esy_2HDCgorHhqg6V0SIZOZcnNnvIuXa4/s1600/Macrovipera+lebetina.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcsTiXhyphenhyphenCCZ1TYmddU63gvRCo4AzOzHQfv76QCPWmNAlHAMoSlgM74zMLZLfvbhjtb6ZEvUGfN1Gxjtg9rFQppY-DPD8L4QuOv_5Ud-8MUh8Esy_2HDCgorHhqg6V0SIZOZcnNnvIuXa4/s640/Macrovipera+lebetina.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Levantine viper</b></div>
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<i>Macrovipera lebetina</i></div>
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Salamis - NORTH CYPRUS</div>
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23.4.2015 | Altitude: 6 m.</div>
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There are plenty of snakes around Anatolia, but only a few of them are dangerous. This Levantine viper was the only "risky" snake I encountered so far. My wife an I were touring the ruins of Salamis - a lost Greek city in North Cyprus. Suddenly there was a rustling in the grass. I was expecting a turtle, or a cat... but out came this gigantic, (1.2m. long?) fat viper, hissing loudly.</div>
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My wife, already a little afraid of snakes, began hyperventilating and froze in fear. She looked at a nearby gravel pit. "<i>I'm... going to jump in that pit now!</i>" she said, her decision-making abilities dulled in the panic of the moment. I told her to stay still, while with trembling hands, I whipped out my camera and started taking pictures. I walked closer... My wife begged me not to get near the snake. Nonsense, I was going to have my viper photographs, no matter what... I snapped this shot - and a few seconds later, the viper stormed away like an earth-bound thunderbolt.</div>
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We were both shaken by the encounter - and I still tease my wife about "jumping into the gravel pit". She was also left with a misplaced fear that all and any patches of tall grass were home to hordes of murderous serpents, all out to bite and envenomate her - a delusion which only passed after she bought puncture-proof trekking boots.</div>
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This funny memory aside, Levantine vipers seem actually quite reluctant to bite people, even when handled. This has given rise to the bizarre preference for these dangerous snakes among "snake men" and "serpent handlers" across Anatolia and the Middle East.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq1XEk2YPH73nPKBptxwxdfcjS2Pj0iSW1ZVQ-zs4yjUeHU1Nw_EcfFtGp0bT7perDwlaKciKHYHMdNmqsQ3EBkqpiXOSqx2v0TlemKbyBRqwbGewTC5B5zViCdlwcX9P7E0L414I4JqT/s1600/tumblr_ou001auCZA1tig2uoo1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYq1XEk2YPH73nPKBptxwxdfcjS2Pj0iSW1ZVQ-zs4yjUeHU1Nw_EcfFtGp0bT7perDwlaKciKHYHMdNmqsQ3EBkqpiXOSqx2v0TlemKbyBRqwbGewTC5B5zViCdlwcX9P7E0L414I4JqT/s400/tumblr_ou001auCZA1tig2uoo1_500.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Yazidi snake-handler, posing with <i>Macrovipera lebetina</i>, Lalesh, Iraq. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Source: Ezidiler, Kara Kitap Kara Talih [The Yazidis, Black Book, Black Fate] by Ahmet Gökçen and Şaner Şen. (2014)</span></div>
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The funny thing is, the same men who ignorantly fondle venomous vipers are scared to death of fast, alert, aggressive but harmless snakes that live in the region, such as the Montpelier snake shown above...</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovbIoEmygwl0Xd0XrrjN39LzQSHPqlotl5nrgaHYlsuEZOmv0Kzvt7yapput10lR2qYfMUfX0-CNy5iD86QUoXv593kr7dzLQf95Cpkrbh1n8z9Qkxe1eauOVJiK2uH9CKUzppEPlXqau/s1600/Hemidactylus+turcicus+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovbIoEmygwl0Xd0XrrjN39LzQSHPqlotl5nrgaHYlsuEZOmv0Kzvt7yapput10lR2qYfMUfX0-CNy5iD86QUoXv593kr7dzLQf95Cpkrbh1n8z9Qkxe1eauOVJiK2uH9CKUzppEPlXqau/s640/Hemidactylus+turcicus+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Turkish gecko</b></div>
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<i>Hemidactylus turcicus</i></div>
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Üsküdar - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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9.8.2011 | Altitude: 120 m.</div>
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One of the most common species in Turkey, if not <i>the </i>commonest, is the Mediterranean house gecko, or the Turkish gecko. This one was photographed in Istanbul, but these geckos are much more common around Turkey's southern coasts. They are among the most widely-distributed geckos in Eurasia, and have been introduced to numerous other places as a result of human activity. Note the tiny, reddish mite on the right toe of this guy.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZWAmX7QPNdBMws2_KQr41odSu6FUF3aK4Vuvn0tRJvX0ys48O8UC-C9V3p3RsCuNNKAHJRnDOdm1aRkxLkikfBXaPhDANUhUzqTRlQxhn78BRbudxdsPNykK-IKRIeOc8CJwnU_S9Wgf/s1600/Hemidactylus+turcicus+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZWAmX7QPNdBMws2_KQr41odSu6FUF3aK4Vuvn0tRJvX0ys48O8UC-C9V3p3RsCuNNKAHJRnDOdm1aRkxLkikfBXaPhDANUhUzqTRlQxhn78BRbudxdsPNykK-IKRIeOc8CJwnU_S9Wgf/s640/Hemidactylus+turcicus+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Turkish gecko</b></div>
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<i>Hemidactylus turcicus</i></div>
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Kuzguncuk - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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6.8.2013 | Altitude: 5 m.</div>
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One is never far from Turkish geckos during the warmer nights of the year. In summers, I admired them as small, quirky "nocturnal companions" one could easily find when bored with the drudgery of people and the banal rituals of social life.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRX2vsNTM_6EJEw4Zc8ebHKU6XRgHzr6XC7A0ChXX33cddpuoQky2I11mcwDeOhV0dIasAK-IGyQjr19Y8uyIdEW2p4BZ7gTSM69zPO8Y0BcdP4p1Q8vJG8NjNMp0pzPmOuawOD0I-dSp2/s1600/Eirenis+modestus.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRX2vsNTM_6EJEw4Zc8ebHKU6XRgHzr6XC7A0ChXX33cddpuoQky2I11mcwDeOhV0dIasAK-IGyQjr19Y8uyIdEW2p4BZ7gTSM69zPO8Y0BcdP4p1Q8vJG8NjNMp0pzPmOuawOD0I-dSp2/s640/Eirenis+modestus.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Modest snake</b></div>
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<i>Eirenis modestus</i></div>
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Göynük - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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25.4.2016 | Altitude: 100 m.</div>
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Believe it or not, there are dwarf snakes, which never grow much larger than a mid-sized lizard, and feed mostly on insects... mostly. I saw one of them - the aptly named modest snake, when trekking near Antalya one fine spring day. There are several related species of <i>Eirenis </i>snakes in Anatolia.This is one of the few serpents one can just catch without worrying about getting bitten.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj26N3Nq0-R7kJP0oaKtaJ4fsW9S6iQm_9SFY-ITE9F0S8Exe26cjKcbhfWGNpJ9JDTSpXNTey0XEXGncHLwfkNxQ7OU_6bt23DB_GNdBlyXLtCPOP4-5cvd-YstI5PynBug8prsQqi6gZE/s1600/Coronella+austriaca+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj26N3Nq0-R7kJP0oaKtaJ4fsW9S6iQm_9SFY-ITE9F0S8Exe26cjKcbhfWGNpJ9JDTSpXNTey0XEXGncHLwfkNxQ7OU_6bt23DB_GNdBlyXLtCPOP4-5cvd-YstI5PynBug8prsQqi6gZE/s640/Coronella+austriaca+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Smooth snake</b></div>
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<i>Coronella austriaca</i></div>
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Doğancılar - ANKARA / TURKEY</div>
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9.9.2004 | Altitude: 1098 m.</div>
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Ah, he is a feisty little one! This is one of the oldest photographs in my herpetology collection. I'd taken it on a wild, spur-of-the-moment road trip from Istanbul to Ankara with my friend <a href="http://www.omercavusoglu.co.uk/" target="_blank">Omer</a> - back in our carefree college years.</div>
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On the road from Ankara to Istanbul, by a small village named Doğancılar, there is an unusual hill named <i>Çamlıtepe</i> (Pine hill) - conical and crowned with ancient-looking stone pines, <i>Pinus pinea</i>. The entire landscape is a barren plateau - save for this one hill and its holdout of age-old trees.</div>
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I dared Omer to stop the car and climb the hill when we were driving past it. We parked the car by the side of the highway, climbed over the roadside fence, and there we were. On the way up, I lifted a small stone, and out came this aggressive-looking snake. Wow! Its triangular head and zig-zag patterns, its confidence and aggressive behaviour convinced Omer and I that we were face-to-face with a dangerous viper...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSRplIursJqzJo26lJrfqF3M9IdIa4eAtAUvtRjzgTmRYb797BR8zIozsi1CrMCPw5eblkxo0XsduCD_yv_jlda3O8-MV2UduJW-pvAB79Z_zU-cvg_DsKoYIDlCZx6ZpbJXsVABR_12CP/s1600/Coronella+austriaca+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSRplIursJqzJo26lJrfqF3M9IdIa4eAtAUvtRjzgTmRYb797BR8zIozsi1CrMCPw5eblkxo0XsduCD_yv_jlda3O8-MV2UduJW-pvAB79Z_zU-cvg_DsKoYIDlCZx6ZpbJXsVABR_12CP/s640/Coronella+austriaca+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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...the snake made several lunging attempts to bite, and we left it well alone. We drove to Ankara, exhilarated after our climb to Çamlıtepe. Once there, I tried to impress girls with the story of our encounter with the "viper".</div>
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Years passed. When looking back at our old pictures, I realised that the "viper" was no viper at all - we had been clearly and thoroughly duped, in the most basic, mammalian fashion possible.</div>
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Instead of a viper, the snake was a harmless <b>smooth snake</b> - a master imitator and a drama queen who tries to (and usually succeeds in) deterring predators with its hissy antics. Well played - it had me and Omer fooled for over a decade.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO_QwfPrR__EdB4Vj_azQvRv4w4k6YIKfwHH8d9ufCvbZkLdYLfLo60GWbxIhbKwqJhsGelzCb6agbKXf6lUdSXdQd9ybNKibludhLtNXr6K3avC5Ct2bO2-T7FeTQDfojRtQBlmTujt5O/s1600/Chalcides+ocellatus.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO_QwfPrR__EdB4Vj_azQvRv4w4k6YIKfwHH8d9ufCvbZkLdYLfLo60GWbxIhbKwqJhsGelzCb6agbKXf6lUdSXdQd9ybNKibludhLtNXr6K3avC5Ct2bO2-T7FeTQDfojRtQBlmTujt5O/s640/Chalcides+ocellatus.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Ocellated skink</b></div>
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<i>Chalcides ocellatus</i></div>
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Galateia (Mehmetçik) - NORTH CYPRUS</div>
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22.4.2015 | Altitude: 40 m.</div>
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The ocellated skinks, with their smooth and psychedelically-patterned skins, are some of the neater lizards in Anatolia. They are also notoriously hard to find. I saw this one in nearby North Cyprus, when touring various towns with my wife. We visited Galatea (Mehmetçik), a Turkish Cypriot village where my mother-in-law was born. It was spring, and after visiting the village we drove to a nearby pasture to take a walk. I found the skink under a stone, and caught it after a few minutes of fumbling and squirming through moist grass and mud. I held it in my hand for a while and the animal relaxed... I then placed it on a rock and took this photograph.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAQKSmW89IQIx-VBjPzuaON4_7o7JtxvZz9sjHoGdSLv2PKv5pD2GWPrW7o9-QuVVBQ7995Yu9qhcQgojd7LYHSxUGvU-0qrlAZLr9SluHY8znjWWmIAxjsi9douz8-n2x42yH82E4wBmO/s1600/Bufotes+variabilis+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAQKSmW89IQIx-VBjPzuaON4_7o7JtxvZz9sjHoGdSLv2PKv5pD2GWPrW7o9-QuVVBQ7995Yu9qhcQgojd7LYHSxUGvU-0qrlAZLr9SluHY8znjWWmIAxjsi9douz8-n2x42yH82E4wBmO/s640/Bufotes+variabilis+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Green toad</b></div>
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<i>Bufotes (=Pseudepidalea) variabilis</i></div>
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Üsküdar - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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4.9.2007 | Altitude: 100 m.</div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCKtHKkmgOg" target="_blank">The thin, reverberating calls of green toads</a> brought joy to our family in summer nights when I was growing up. They came out every year to breed in a decorative pond near our home in Istanbul. By the mid 2010s, however, new construction projects, urban pressure and an 'improved' water-filtration system on the pond, extinguished the local population. The nights fell silent and summers became duller. This was one of my last photographs of an adult, taken near the doorstep of our apartment building.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FExSipW1gr8DFa1ux-xWQrR851PgSt92jiOy4L4fGz7emKvB-SfQyxoIqNBnbb6kXENQL2zs1M05TqDcRc6uDPhXf8cKlLX8aRQtCsTpVWFi2o1z8hJpwH8Tk2yHdKJFLjaXs_ASV-Vt/s1600/Bufotes+variabilis+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FExSipW1gr8DFa1ux-xWQrR851PgSt92jiOy4L4fGz7emKvB-SfQyxoIqNBnbb6kXENQL2zs1M05TqDcRc6uDPhXf8cKlLX8aRQtCsTpVWFi2o1z8hJpwH8Tk2yHdKJFLjaXs_ASV-Vt/s640/Bufotes+variabilis+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Green toad</b></div>
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<i>Bufotes (=Pseudepidalea) variabilis</i></div>
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Üsküdar - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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26.8.2010 | Altitude: 100 m.</div>
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As the green toads grew scarce, I began collecting their eggs and raised them from tadpoles to the hatchling stage. I then released the hatchlings to gardens around our house, hoping they'd live on. I tried my best, but I guess I was unsuccessful. This was one of the finer hatchlings I raised during those years. His name was "Pilby".</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhySOuaUYDm1UEPaYbXLt3hF7aqK3o0quh1MxuTULKKG5F2LPqcAl0S9xNHi925HGdlJdfnsxym1jJIJNGSMjkzorlQJ-yrpR6XxKIzQaSmcWMsGr5sxFrhY6EDK2An8HQTqD4Tul-6HpS2/s1600/Blanus+strauchi.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhySOuaUYDm1UEPaYbXLt3hF7aqK3o0quh1MxuTULKKG5F2LPqcAl0S9xNHi925HGdlJdfnsxym1jJIJNGSMjkzorlQJ-yrpR6XxKIzQaSmcWMsGr5sxFrhY6EDK2An8HQTqD4Tul-6HpS2/s640/Blanus+strauchi.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Anatolian worm lizard</b></div>
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<i>Blanus strauchi</i></div>
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Gümüşlük - MUĞLA / TURKEY</div>
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22.5.2017 | Altitude: 220 m.</div>
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One can unearth a few things stranger than the blind, snake-like worm lizards when flipping stones across Turkey. They moved like earthworms or a gigantic caterpillars, shuffling back and forth inside their loose, scaly skins. Their heads and tails look alike - and that was why the ancients had named them <i>Amphisbaenas - </i>"double-ended serpents."<i> </i>I think I'd caught this couple in an amorous moment!<br />
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Amphisbaenans were once thought to be members of a unique lineage of burrowing reptiles, distinct from lizards and snakes both. Later, genetic research revealed them to be members of the lizard group; ultra-derived versions of the familiar Lacertids, to boot. According to genetic studies, proper snakes, too, were in fact lizards - highly specialised varanid relatives. Everything was lizards.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQrAbhIT5Lyg8tu2ebANPF5w9i6yDXaBkMbitDOVAP172_W8EgBooXP3oDKVw42s5Jtp7BNguNS2cNhn_Xgw0pjCsGuJD3c_N_j0yyMgjuwamtxIpbOgyQJtusA1O5PRlMnwEaIVHqnM1/s1600/Anatololacerta+pelasgiana+02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQrAbhIT5Lyg8tu2ebANPF5w9i6yDXaBkMbitDOVAP172_W8EgBooXP3oDKVw42s5Jtp7BNguNS2cNhn_Xgw0pjCsGuJD3c_N_j0yyMgjuwamtxIpbOgyQJtusA1O5PRlMnwEaIVHqnM1/s640/Anatololacerta+pelasgiana+02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Pelasgian rock lizard</b></div>
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<i>Anatololacerta pelasgiana</i></div>
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Kumluca/Çıralı - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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15.5.2015 | Altitude: 5 m.</div>
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We are back to lacertid lizards. As I showed you before, different species of lacertids inhabit different areas in Turkey. Southwestern Anatolia is home to these Pelasgian rock lizards. I saw this gal near the ruins of <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2014/06/a-walk-across-beach-of-olympos-at.html" target="_blank">Olympos</a> - a popular and enchanting getaway destination - basking on the walls of a thousand-year-old ruin. It did not budge at all as I approached to an arm's length of her, and snapped this photograph. Judging from her fat abdomen, she was also possibly pregnant.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9y30M1H7u1BfVbot0aK4u1v6AAI-tu_vWlUqi1rzcgtdzw8dbdctpEbIFxkclUurjxr913nEAoD-qJ7k7_n8tYTfn9u6umS9c3csFKNoJxf6zq2JQoJ7sL3csS7UbaqfpVSkZJUCbd17/s1600/Anatololacerta+pelasgiana+01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9y30M1H7u1BfVbot0aK4u1v6AAI-tu_vWlUqi1rzcgtdzw8dbdctpEbIFxkclUurjxr913nEAoD-qJ7k7_n8tYTfn9u6umS9c3csFKNoJxf6zq2JQoJ7sL3csS7UbaqfpVSkZJUCbd17/s640/Anatololacerta+pelasgiana+01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Pelasgian rock lizard</b></div>
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<i>Anatololacerta pelasgiana</i></div>
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Göynük - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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25.4.2016 | Altitude: 65 m.</div>
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Unlike their drab female counterparts, male Pelasgian rock lizards are gaudily coloured in electric bluish-white spots, stripes, and red throat pouches. I saw this guy in another excursion, more than three years after the trip in which I spotted the female above. It quickly rustled away into the undergrowth - gone like a colourful hallucination.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<b>Schreiber's fringe-toed lizard</b></div>
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<i>Acanthodactylus schreiberi</i></div>
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23.4.2015 | Altitude: 6 m.</div>
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We're back in North Cyprus again, with the extraordinary fringe-toed lizard. These guys live in hot, sandy environments, and their long toes have special adaptations to run rapidly over loose substrates. We observed a large colony of them in the ancient, seaside ruins of Salamis. I kept encountering them every few metres - and they weren't afraid of people. We saw the large <i>Macrovipera </i>viper I'd mentioned above in the same place - I think the snake was out to hunt these guys.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<b>Budak's juniper skink</b></div>
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<i>Ablepharus budaki</i></div>
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Tekirova - ANTALYA / TURKEY</div>
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26.4.2016 | Altitude: 5 m.</div>
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Juniper skinks resemble tiny snakes with barely-noticeable limbs. In Turkey, they are quite common in pastureland and hillsides. They are always a joy to catch, watch and photograph. This one was from an excursion around Antalya. Notice how perfectly-formed its limbs were, despite being so small. This is why I called these animals "snakes in the making." It was easy to see how, in a few million years, the limbs might completely disappear.</div>
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When browsing for food, juniper skinks use their limbs for a slow, foraging style of locomotion. But when threatened, they fold them towards their bodies and flee like tiny, writhing snakes. Like snakes, they have no moveable eyelids, possibly in order to protect their eyes from debris as they burrow.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEHdh42jBqB3kG_2SZQqTOaSNCDthMZil35hE1tg4POpGuixyPwzJb4je-ONEs1UkGGHTz4Lp_8C2ywkqdC8gXT_Y9xC3_1bkXwA0hDIzAwyaDS9GXfStNHs0MuZwY-BG_VI5l-JIMSKwl/s1600/Ablepharus+kitaibelii.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEHdh42jBqB3kG_2SZQqTOaSNCDthMZil35hE1tg4POpGuixyPwzJb4je-ONEs1UkGGHTz4Lp_8C2ywkqdC8gXT_Y9xC3_1bkXwA0hDIzAwyaDS9GXfStNHs0MuZwY-BG_VI5l-JIMSKwl/s640/Ablepharus+kitaibelii.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Snake-eyed skink</b></div>
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<i>Ablepharus kitaibellii</i></div>
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Kuruçeşme - ISTANBUL / TURKEY</div>
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7.10.2017 | Altitude: 63 m.</div>
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Recent research has revealed Turkey's juniper skinks to be members of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Species_complex" target="_blank">species complex</a>, rather than one monolithic species. The animals in Southern Turkey are classified as <i>Ablepharus budaki</i>, while northern animals are either <i>A. kitaibellii</i> or <i>A. chernovi</i>. I found this guy while walking in an old Armenian cemetery in the European part of Istanbul. It looked like a tiny bronze dragon... Istanbul's juniper skinks seemed thicker, darker and burlier than those in the warmer south. This guy, however, did not seem to know anything about recent debates on its species affinity. We left it alone and walked down to the Bosphorus shore, towards new adventures...</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank">www.cmkosemen.com </a></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-47265490620752475122018-01-05T02:25:00.003-08:002018-02-15T04:33:50.295-08:00An Aviary of the Heart: The Outsider Art of Nihat Taş<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n December 2017, I was walking down a street in Istanbul's <b>Tophane </b>district when I passed by a small store with eye-catching paintings of birds on its door. This area was a semi-gentrified neighbourhood of artsy (and inconsequential) design stores, art studios and so on, so I almost gave it a pass. But something in the paintings forced me to turn back, and knock on the door.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaJyOz3qePuixakhjPP3SmUSTB9SZ1BU7kF_wpDmgN4Xi73fyZRSkWtinYJDxi_AVE3pb_ZXF_VpG29g9ngX5jGuTeCgigN3Shlq70wMWwkLgERDxShzWUtQnz-TfuCoZBgs4zCwQ2KWa/s1600/nihat+tas+photos+001.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaJyOz3qePuixakhjPP3SmUSTB9SZ1BU7kF_wpDmgN4Xi73fyZRSkWtinYJDxi_AVE3pb_ZXF_VpG29g9ngX5jGuTeCgigN3Shlq70wMWwkLgERDxShzWUtQnz-TfuCoZBgs4zCwQ2KWa/s640/nihat+tas+photos+001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The store, it turned out, wasn't just another overpriced hipsters' den; but the decades-old abode of <b>Nihat Taş</b>, eccentric master carpenter and unacknowledged outsider artist. There he sat, making furniture and repairing others for the residents of the area for more than twenty years.</div>
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Mr. Taş's beautiful and talented niece <b>Remziye</b> also dropped by occasionally to help him in his daily tasks. Freshly liberated from the drudgery of corporate life, she also used his workshop as a studio space to work on her own furniture projects.</div>
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In the last few years, impelled by a personal tribulation, Mr. Taş had started painting <b>flocks of birds</b> on pieces of wood and leftover furniture material in his workshop. He even used his carpenter's skills to make the hanging fixtures for individual works, crafting them out of bits of discarded metal, parts of broken locks and keys, nails, whatever that was at hand. He called his creations, <b>'birds of my heart</b>'.</div>
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Even with the limited references he used from a couple of old birdwatchers' guides he had found in a second-hand bookseller, Mr. Taş's creations were <b>unique and spellbinding masterpieces of outsider art</b> - comparable to the globally-known savant geniuses such as <b><a href="https://www.brainpickings.org/2011/12/02/blackstocks-collections/" target="_blank">Gregory Blackstock</a></b>, <b><a href="http://mirocomachiko.com/painting/" target="_blank">Miroco Machiko</a></b>, <b><a href="https://folkartmuseum.org/exhibitions/bill-traylor-drawings-from-the-collection-of-the-high-museum-of-art-and-the-montgomery-museum-of-fine-arts/" target="_blank">Bill Traylor</a></b> and <b><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/485051822344305240/" target="_blank">Lee Goldie</a></b>.</div>
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I was transfixed. The situation was almost too good to be true, and I wondered how on Earth had no-one discovered this <b>oasis of creation</b> before I'd stumbled into it. Oh wait - perhaps it was because the <b>modern Turkish concept of high-art was a grey, soulless cargo cult of 'conceptual' pap?</b></div>
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Mr. Taş and I sat and spoke for a few hours that day. We instantly clicked over our common hatred of snobbish contemporary art, and other similar opinions about life, love and labour.</div>
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I <b>had </b>to document these paintings, and introduce them to the world somehow. The very next day I borrowed a tripod, two white cardboard sheets and two mobile lights and visited Mr. Taş's workshop to photograph each and every one of his avian creations. Remziye was also there. The three of us had lunch; beans, meat and rice, and then I busied myself with digitising the entire body of Mr. Taş's work while him and Remziye worked on their own tasks.</div>
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It was an extremely pleasant day, and you can see the entirety of Nihat Taş's oeuvre below. (But I'm sure he'll make more in the future).</div>
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<b>UPDATE: </b>You can now download a .pdf version of Nihat Taş's works through <b><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=10CX1sZtXyfMpSN7q9r25ZyQJ0v_400uV" target="_blank">this link.</a></b></div>
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You can contact me for a print-resolution version of the file.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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The ten pieces below are his earliest works, slightly more primal in form and complexity.</div>
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After these comes the main body of Mr Taş's work, a spectacular parade of iridescent peasants, crows, sparrows, woodpeckers and countless other birds... Enjoy!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXJOJUZ4LgapYW7df3YdmaYcJ4njB6HvrU-4KeuoucQM7x-fTLawWSWaafQ4DlSj1m3Jy2S6SUiO5m226tGFzenOwwtAWVvp-jL93t8qeFXgJJi1TewJr1JGW7s7HFSgl4sQxLb0UAqBh/s1600/nihat+tas+birds+071.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXJOJUZ4LgapYW7df3YdmaYcJ4njB6HvrU-4KeuoucQM7x-fTLawWSWaafQ4DlSj1m3Jy2S6SUiO5m226tGFzenOwwtAWVvp-jL93t8qeFXgJJi1TewJr1JGW7s7HFSgl4sQxLb0UAqBh/s640/nihat+tas+birds+071.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally, and crucially, Mr. Taş had a stash of "spirit paintings" about his pivotal life experiences. These precious few works are keys to the enigma of his birds - and a clue to how his creative explosion came about...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-YC9iAYAHfZcMojQBU1jcMsESmUzlNwYe6RkxapYGz2eCRmXQ3O09msAMq6_i1Iiqp535cUCtZm_MUX0UXHRrJxWj642p6L_QtMsilobFg4dPTL5stV6adEvuFsq-DWsD7kJyhpUqvn5/s1600/nihat+tas+spirits+and+personal+007.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-YC9iAYAHfZcMojQBU1jcMsESmUzlNwYe6RkxapYGz2eCRmXQ3O09msAMq6_i1Iiqp535cUCtZm_MUX0UXHRrJxWj642p6L_QtMsilobFg4dPTL5stV6adEvuFsq-DWsD7kJyhpUqvn5/s640/nihat+tas+spirits+and+personal+007.JPG" width="358" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimnrdD5N55yIb3X3LNAtv1Sl5EOJjzYCpmjMz46Qk2aogzzLgqmJzZPyakBymYXG8uSc_P14VJ7xfjmouxL6xPz0HImGWSG1H_g9TGkPRwlRnVtWGuXDZocuV-MLEosF51wQ-XFZu1Zb5S/s1600/nihat+tas+spirits+and+personal+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimnrdD5N55yIb3X3LNAtv1Sl5EOJjzYCpmjMz46Qk2aogzzLgqmJzZPyakBymYXG8uSc_P14VJ7xfjmouxL6xPz0HImGWSG1H_g9TGkPRwlRnVtWGuXDZocuV-MLEosF51wQ-XFZu1Zb5S/s640/nihat+tas+spirits+and+personal+001.jpg" width="326" /></a></div>
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This, then was the work of Nihat Taş, Istanbul's extraordinary outsider artist. These paintings certainly need more recognition in the wider world - let alone the cultural dead-end-steet that is Turkey. If you are interested in these artworks, please get in touch with me through <b><a href="mailto:c.m.kosemen@gmail.com">c.m.kosemen@gmail.com</a></b>, and I can connect you with Mr. Taş, or his niece Remziye, who acts as his assistant.</div>
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<b>UPDATE: </b>You can now download a .pdf version of Nihat Taş's works through <b><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=10CX1sZtXyfMpSN7q9r25ZyQJ0v_400uV" target="_blank">this link.</a></b></div>
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You can contact me for a print-resolution version of the file.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-11149137139813820652017-10-25T04:04:00.000-07:002018-04-24T05:09:30.824-07:00A Daily Expedition to Eastern Thrace<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzsD6KibjAztM8Q0gzMpSgwWeeA2T48AJu8-qXwyuc1pDKvfHUMpvX-mmdUTpfMcy7RZNrIR2ctUboK5umUu6IxgxBDhB4Hll9ejGarzzMCu5zcJnm554-BnU7eYiAbfD6i3N0utzl2s0/s1600/aaa01.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzsD6KibjAztM8Q0gzMpSgwWeeA2T48AJu8-qXwyuc1pDKvfHUMpvX-mmdUTpfMcy7RZNrIR2ctUboK5umUu6IxgxBDhB4Hll9ejGarzzMCu5zcJnm554-BnU7eYiAbfD6i3N0utzl2s0/s640/aaa01.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">C</span>omes a need to travel; and in the last days of September 2017 my friend <b>Arsen </b>and I set out on an improvised road trip adventure from Istanbul, in the direction of <b>Eastern Thrace</b>. Both of us were desperate to get away from the city, even if only for a day.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix8Qu021HYpjE0Fvup61G7wtWmyqeLfwa6Oj0WKtJyQo3Vu7cv5OJZsOeuvuznbF2ACaKBBcTh-ilK5V7SfNrnrWBj0AniutmR9y7akqraJ26kpZRTyLayRpt97mmmn7SY89iyTVoNq_4/s1600/aaa02.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix8Qu021HYpjE0Fvup61G7wtWmyqeLfwa6Oj0WKtJyQo3Vu7cv5OJZsOeuvuznbF2ACaKBBcTh-ilK5V7SfNrnrWBj0AniutmR9y7akqraJ26kpZRTyLayRpt97mmmn7SY89iyTVoNq_4/s640/aaa02.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Eastern Thrace </b>was the last region of European territory still in Turkish possession. Despite our excited plans, we almost didn't set out on the arranged day due to a rainy forecast. But at the last moment we persevered, got in our car and started driving.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomC8MBU9DxSd0cbtzdgMFEfB85hC5VK7-7Oe7kbumyP9roIUfCBaCEE4w6lUSDxfuzZynbdHI1OtBQDQ53rpkz0DbSG-wgQ0EYXRKApZyYyo5mktmUBcfMZR4ExKcOcdhsAFVev6Yv7w/s1600/aaa03.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomC8MBU9DxSd0cbtzdgMFEfB85hC5VK7-7Oe7kbumyP9roIUfCBaCEE4w6lUSDxfuzZynbdHI1OtBQDQ53rpkz0DbSG-wgQ0EYXRKApZyYyo5mktmUBcfMZR4ExKcOcdhsAFVev6Yv7w/s640/aaa03.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Before anything could begin, however, we had to <b>exit Istanbul</b>. We drove through an <b>apocalyptic landscape</b> of favelas and nightmarish new developments; shopping malls, soulless gated communities; mountains of concrete and glass; <b>an agglomeration too boring to photograph even for its shock value.</b></div>
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We finally saw open horizons after more than an hour of driving.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjty0a4rxofJ-QmN_fHogPSgxnsqhojFQLveryhyMl_amoB_M78DwfuVK_hA8-kowOnjhpwRtJMCpoaSuiiAcSOUrxX_iffRHoXPDhglhHVFNEseuX1O0Ig-J6Q4bl3NQKcGKO3G-kyRpE/s1600/aaa04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjty0a4rxofJ-QmN_fHogPSgxnsqhojFQLveryhyMl_amoB_M78DwfuVK_hA8-kowOnjhpwRtJMCpoaSuiiAcSOUrxX_iffRHoXPDhglhHVFNEseuX1O0Ig-J6Q4bl3NQKcGKO3G-kyRpE/s640/aaa04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our first stop was the truckstop-cum-village of <b>Ahmediye</b>, near Lake Büyükçekmece. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJyk3_Ha4ZYiLbhpTlAxpsn9skSHH-ZmYcTNY_-xhtjj5PiBBKT7cnGcG8KjW6d4mTI3rWeKTUl_XO39uoX9OT5msAjw17nEeEk6dgfmXnhVeYyJRQ2mWDxlmw_p0iXIozevuKFHaUllA/s1600/aaa05.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJyk3_Ha4ZYiLbhpTlAxpsn9skSHH-ZmYcTNY_-xhtjj5PiBBKT7cnGcG8KjW6d4mTI3rWeKTUl_XO39uoX9OT5msAjw17nEeEk6dgfmXnhVeYyJRQ2mWDxlmw_p0iXIozevuKFHaUllA/s640/aaa05.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We stopped at Ahmediye because we'd left home without proper breakfasts. The town did have a sad sort of charm, however.</div>
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The few buildings that made up Ahmediye opened up to verdant streets that sloped gently down to <b>Lake Büyükçekmece;</b> a water reservoir for Istanbul's 15-odd-million thirsty mouths.</div>
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The landing strips of the <b>Hezarfen Airfield</b> were visible on the far shore. I had a lot of pleasant memories of the place, which was once the site of a <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr-np92NLqOfo3g1vQ0B25cYtUxcdlgmxrnyyBX4-9b1AdsRRofRLV7hVEFm7CtVk83NnN4Uj_QLXCZR00K5Qjc-saRG2uaLIJD4kkHulgaof23ThawmoklN3f_D9D0zW9Ph-xQ_5zpA/s1600/rock-n-coke-festivali.jpg" target="_blank">vibrant international music festival</a>. The festival was suspended since 2013, however, in concert with Turkey's decline into misrule and uncertainty. Back in the day one could sit on this very street and listen to bands like <b>Limp Bizkit, Prodigy, The Cure </b>and <b>Pet Shop Boys</b> live, their sounds echoing from over the water...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCqDlPwsc2RY2cNCg14bz2epleQyIE1gNsnRonp9zHquU7Rx8fROFqsc5JqU52tuTSjWL0SFdKu4s8BPP5RmralcNJy3b8qE2eiBYwlKHeTlCLfVRsCL_q6nWwx9OHoKoavzwEnICug0/s1600/aaa07.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCqDlPwsc2RY2cNCg14bz2epleQyIE1gNsnRonp9zHquU7Rx8fROFqsc5JqU52tuTSjWL0SFdKu4s8BPP5RmralcNJy3b8qE2eiBYwlKHeTlCLfVRsCL_q6nWwx9OHoKoavzwEnICug0/s640/aaa07.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We took a brief walk around the town. This was Ahmediye's depressing-looking primary school building.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI5-l62MtFIOta4D3n4pVN69rOFNth5CFckgKkN8MJYrJgCX9pipO0d90Wblt44AYJsQiidLIjFNIX_u7D-i5j4qXpnyefchTEiHQLVZsv6dgxuF7vMSAIpfC7ZVPo5LFiKSi1hK7u_o/s1600/aaa08.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI5-l62MtFIOta4D3n4pVN69rOFNth5CFckgKkN8MJYrJgCX9pipO0d90Wblt44AYJsQiidLIjFNIX_u7D-i5j4qXpnyefchTEiHQLVZsv6dgxuF7vMSAIpfC7ZVPo5LFiKSi1hK7u_o/s640/aaa08.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We finally sat down at a roadside coffeehouse. Breakfast was cheap sandwiches, tea, Nescafé and cigarettes...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LXBa_uynOY1xDo8XWe6unMEuRl98rJp46Ik812rafoDYCGyKNKx9hkc9U9zb_ApqHmndkfcsnks4OzeboZXmj-evuCTHn_I7Uv5MyH1PCrTyj0o1ijefcJjcJb2N04pHZTihLVxk6-c/s1600/aaa09.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LXBa_uynOY1xDo8XWe6unMEuRl98rJp46Ik812rafoDYCGyKNKx9hkc9U9zb_ApqHmndkfcsnks4OzeboZXmj-evuCTHn_I7Uv5MyH1PCrTyj0o1ijefcJjcJb2N04pHZTihLVxk6-c/s640/aaa09.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The interior of the coffeehouse seemed to be frozen in the early 1990s; with its old-fashioned wood stove; brown stamped-iron-and-wooden chairs; a wistful-looking portrait of <b>Atatürk; </b>and gas lanterns still occasionally used for illumination.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNk7t5h3LgVh-Ewq2Wl-6tA19anj-TV-7J2PD1jAJFWvKH3fabF2hNZUcG7_JXwCzy_Tj6N1vLMUaLYkvv-_o3qHclsTGVtflCgrO-ktFu0sjzd4KgECtD_16ALH-y6IYgv1jmJ2sp2T4/s1600/aaa10.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNk7t5h3LgVh-Ewq2Wl-6tA19anj-TV-7J2PD1jAJFWvKH3fabF2hNZUcG7_JXwCzy_Tj6N1vLMUaLYkvv-_o3qHclsTGVtflCgrO-ktFu0sjzd4KgECtD_16ALH-y6IYgv1jmJ2sp2T4/s640/aaa10.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The men frequenting it also seemed weary with time. Most of them were truckers who carried freight into, or out of Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGU5Ih8FHGcCUwz3ZPR9eZJgA2WPqsn8bsdFrc2I4zZfTEVf9P1EtD0ekEqBgbsrByIenZQXUkcdZ-3iug7Ou-NqFRCJKhCBn6xsSxOXTGMWFSL0Bv54Od9RhGZcOVUT9xbgO7_tvdz4/s1600/aaa11.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGU5Ih8FHGcCUwz3ZPR9eZJgA2WPqsn8bsdFrc2I4zZfTEVf9P1EtD0ekEqBgbsrByIenZQXUkcdZ-3iug7Ou-NqFRCJKhCBn6xsSxOXTGMWFSL0Bv54Od9RhGZcOVUT9xbgO7_tvdz4/s640/aaa11.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We left <b>Ahmediye </b>and drove towards <b>Çatalca;</b> across a road lined with teeth-like rows of mass-housing and watched over giant wind turbines.</div>
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Istanbul's impact on Thrace is difficult to overstate. Almost daily, construction projects were eating up land around the city and new buildings and infrastructure projects were going up. To top things up, <b>Kanalistanbul</b>; <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/groundbreaking-for-kanal-istanbul-project-to-be-held-in-late-2017-or-early-2018-erdogan-120676" target="_blank"><b>a gargantuan sea-to-sea channel</b></a> was being planned for the region, cutting acros swathes of land and turning western Istanbul (or the easternmost tip of Eastern Thrace) into a man-made island.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0lWEBO8HMs2SfgqiwhfMx3auypwHxLC0zNko_L88Q7XuQG-vCWY4Ap_np4RkF1UNy0MB4dmeCibpQ2th0umQ0wh5rx_ciWQJl9xbTEqsR0oSC-gK8q4JwUTqUFSkgqA92hhpa9-60Bzaj/s1600/aaa12v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1274" data-original-width="1600" height="509" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0lWEBO8HMs2SfgqiwhfMx3auypwHxLC0zNko_L88Q7XuQG-vCWY4Ap_np4RkF1UNy0MB4dmeCibpQ2th0umQ0wh5rx_ciWQJl9xbTEqsR0oSC-gK8q4JwUTqUFSkgqA92hhpa9-60Bzaj/s640/aaa12v.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is what <b>Kanalistanbul </b>will look like if it ever becomes reality. Actually there are two conflicting plans, one of which puts its course further east than portrayed here. Either way, the project will be a tar pit of money, and will have awful ecological consequences.</div>
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Many people forget that <b>Istanbul </b>is a <b>province </b>that extends way beyond the city. Its contains lakes, small mountains, farmland, pastureland, towns, villages and more.</div>
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We finally reached the small but historically-important town of <b>Çatalca</b>, but technically speaking, we were still in Istanbul. <b>Çatalca </b>was refreshingly free of the despondent atmosphere hanging over Ahmediye.</div>
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Back in the <b>First Balkan War</b> more than a century ago, Bulgarian troops had advanced as far as the "Chataldja Line" before being defeated by Turkish forces. It was the Turkish Army's only big success in that great debacle; where the Ottoman Empire's Balkan heartland was irrevocably lost to an unstable alliance between Serbia, Greece, Bulgaria and Montenegro. The tiny part of Thrace that we were exploring that day was the only European territory left to Turkey after the war.</div>
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Due to its historic importance, Çatalca's citizens were proud nationalists and embraced the heritage of <b>Mustafa Kemal Atatürk</b> - modern Turkey's secular "founding father" - even if he wasn't directly involved in the Balkan campaign. We passed by a fountain with a strange, old bronze relief, dedicated to Atatürk.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMAQdsMvQj025YvUi0y38lm8BIAd3Uf6FC3TjqnPnVF2N-Ohr08I5xvn6AM0XwRsrF1MCaT2AQGGgodFoYRmm1iUSX9vN-neQGrO_GGeNeRC9v3QzfBE94Gjt2E2X9FM2B-r6TRoYJ7A/s1600/aaa15.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMAQdsMvQj025YvUi0y38lm8BIAd3Uf6FC3TjqnPnVF2N-Ohr08I5xvn6AM0XwRsrF1MCaT2AQGGgodFoYRmm1iUSX9vN-neQGrO_GGeNeRC9v3QzfBE94Gjt2E2X9FM2B-r6TRoYJ7A/s640/aaa15.jpg" width="538" /></a></div>
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I assumed the fountain was a relic from the nation-building years of the 1930s, but a sign announced that it was made in 1999. Atatürk's representation on the bronze relief-plaque seemed to be inspired by <b><a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/art/images/work/N/N05/N05058_10.jpg" target="_blank">William Blake</a></b>, depicting a contorted, troubled thinker. The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kemalism" target="_blank">six arrows of Kemalist thought</a> radiated outwards from his strangely-sculpted brow, and the date <b>1938 </b>was stamped on the stone he was resting on.</div>
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<b>1938</b>? That was the strangest detail about this relief, because that was the year that Atatürk died. One would expect the monumental date to be the foundation year of the Republic, the date of Turkish victory in the preceding Greco-Turkish War, or a similar grand accomplishment. Seeing Ataturk portrayed - in eerily stylised fashion to boot - rearing above a stone bearing the date of his own death turned the frieze into a bizarre, nationalist take on <b>Lazarus</b>, rising up from death.</div>
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But perhaps this was exactly the aim of this unknown sculptor - to exclaim that no matter how many years passed, Atatürk (and his ideas) would keep rising from the grave: He was now <i>Atatürk Athanatos</i> - the Leader Without Death.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJYapebqQ5vVb5yz6IWW6YxLacsxwwDBTJfh_2shJ6FlLfoikaGYC05GZHlmfuoTN1Adjc5SYAKe9lMVKBM4S0TRjnY1q0H_cBtnENHOmdG8wKVA_1xLFeX3QQc0xyjeaqmGKUOarxIc/s1600/aaa16.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJYapebqQ5vVb5yz6IWW6YxLacsxwwDBTJfh_2shJ6FlLfoikaGYC05GZHlmfuoTN1Adjc5SYAKe9lMVKBM4S0TRjnY1q0H_cBtnENHOmdG8wKVA_1xLFeX3QQc0xyjeaqmGKUOarxIc/s640/aaa16.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We kept driving through Çatalca, taking pictures of interesting buildings as we went. In retrospect we could've spent more time in the town, but at that moment we were focusing on our destination - the Black Sea coastline. Arsen had read of an important, old Greek monastery at a place called <b>Hagia Nicola</b>, and we wanted to get there before sundown.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFAlBeeiGV_s-t9X5VMaF1AnqPaCy6GGgk-x_rvG_vjUXhb0RF_aNHj31ZVJD1q-sQWoR26fkpnqyxoWXm1auWtfIXat5SxzVwiilz4La65U4Ps1VPWJqpItlMCcQypTx7GCbtHYfPic/s1600/aaa17.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFAlBeeiGV_s-t9X5VMaF1AnqPaCy6GGgk-x_rvG_vjUXhb0RF_aNHj31ZVJD1q-sQWoR26fkpnqyxoWXm1auWtfIXat5SxzVwiilz4La65U4Ps1VPWJqpItlMCcQypTx7GCbtHYfPic/s640/aaa17.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Çatalca </b>was full of old stone buildings, some a century old, some a lot older. This one, perhaps belonging to one of the district's bygone Greeks (Remember; traces of departed Greeks, Armenians and others populate every Turkish city) was exploding with verdant <i><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ailanthus" target="_blank">Ailanthus</a></i> trees; "<b>ghetto palms</b>"; extremely resilient invasive plants from China that spread to many places in Turkey (and America, Europe and Australia) since the late 1700s.</div>
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Today, they were universally common. Tough colonisers, <i>Ailanthus </i>plants also killed competing plants with chemical compounds in their leaves, resulting in a characteristic unpleasant odour and their common name in Turkish: <b>the stink tree</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg54MXL_3qmmeDmXGU5Lclhso3VbnizYzP9U_vW2NovUXZl1fbqCRWcjeDDIGAJU9zKuPffYmWm29ZaBpyZws12ZIwe9bhyphenhyphenYblD12VV6nA1O2uVXu37JnZ-4q4SEQ7fRtLAqH_21NyWbX0/s1600/aaa18.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg54MXL_3qmmeDmXGU5Lclhso3VbnizYzP9U_vW2NovUXZl1fbqCRWcjeDDIGAJU9zKuPffYmWm29ZaBpyZws12ZIwe9bhyphenhyphenYblD12VV6nA1O2uVXu37JnZ-4q4SEQ7fRtLAqH_21NyWbX0/s640/aaa18.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Also brimming with <i>Ailanthus </i>trees was this time-worn wall. We couldn't tell how old it was - something from the Ottoman years, or older? The large stones at the bottom part seemed to be re-purposed from even older structures. We also learnt that Çatalca was home to <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicN2sxvFLzhtJUVBdqkwGiImnZsfi8xuq_1M0tc152TonsT_oNWqU9uaJpC9OeOtxNLGa2A76zbLsCEvOKaPXeeNOkriCT10rwYvBT4mfmT3_sN2VtES_zjUE9_OLDbQN-ya3qVsUIK8Gz/s1600/DSC_1669.JPG" target="_blank">an impressive line of WW2-era bunkers</a>, but we didn't have time to see them in this visit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GtQEVmvTt1NwFQEX7s4lOShyDzWa59sJjEeRyO75N68Xf6l5QnOSSUDrnAyJnua8Ciibv6ynEBvS8xcHNrzi6hBgpiHSDfxSLvJ9J20bxZmwYqLavBzwTj6V5HaLbdPMcJTDPrkk55Q/s1600/aaa19.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GtQEVmvTt1NwFQEX7s4lOShyDzWa59sJjEeRyO75N68Xf6l5QnOSSUDrnAyJnua8Ciibv6ynEBvS8xcHNrzi6hBgpiHSDfxSLvJ9J20bxZmwYqLavBzwTj6V5HaLbdPMcJTDPrkk55Q/s640/aaa19.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We left <b>Çatalca </b>behind and drove deeper into Thracian Istanbul. The land began to rise into forested hills, now dotted with futuristic windmills that supplied extra power to ravenous city... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQGpGdLHaKrjpqNgup98cjvvVIco5dSp8r0YRLhE0AV7XSvJJcJYeK3wr7ZzlCcjiSnzMTi9Ax31Z1CYDGzccf9ya1u2GrtobcAe0KVaUGqmUr80HH-CGToQtJMT-9hZQQBEYWGg9iq3E/s1600/aaa20.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQGpGdLHaKrjpqNgup98cjvvVIco5dSp8r0YRLhE0AV7XSvJJcJYeK3wr7ZzlCcjiSnzMTi9Ax31Z1CYDGzccf9ya1u2GrtobcAe0KVaUGqmUr80HH-CGToQtJMT-9hZQQBEYWGg9iq3E/s640/aaa20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...we drove for a longish while; talking about life, families, women and what we'd do if we were given unlimited funds and power. We spoke about history and our favourite Roman Emperors; mine was <b>Marcus Aurelius</b> and Arsen's was <b>Caligula</b>. At one point we returned to the present and made a an unplanned stop at a small village named <b>Gümüşpınar</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9Q7Afmx680mewS84gGbXG2729XCtJSEBc7uKiJq5HGrLtZQjaA_3UELRjuFyWGmmM9i4bdN5K5P3W2H0kXyTPFFcmlVqRcdK4QDwTrE7RfebL7lNh4JStxMfxxkv5m4cKgQyjYj1w_M/s1600/aaa21.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9Q7Afmx680mewS84gGbXG2729XCtJSEBc7uKiJq5HGrLtZQjaA_3UELRjuFyWGmmM9i4bdN5K5P3W2H0kXyTPFFcmlVqRcdK4QDwTrE7RfebL7lNh4JStxMfxxkv5m4cKgQyjYj1w_M/s640/aaa21.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We stopped because I'd spied a small, <b>old village cemetery</b> on the roadside - and Turkish village cemeteries, especially old ones, were <b>unspeakably poetic places</b> to tour and photograph. <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByV5-S712cg8a3g0dVhfcGt2M0k/edit" target="_blank">They were also home to interesting varieties of snails</a>, the collection of which was one of my "side quests" for today's adventure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4tHYl8FZH2usAthXye1JsakuoIzTRgpXnOX0_hJu4RzWjIK2lR-5owLvk5zm3_dt8IFNw7UPXdq-czzOeMHzQoyJIB0BIwRI2AXCSTGYe0GLRJwKxQnhnW_7oScuoMDR3YXIKgPZv-U/s1600/aaa25.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4tHYl8FZH2usAthXye1JsakuoIzTRgpXnOX0_hJu4RzWjIK2lR-5owLvk5zm3_dt8IFNw7UPXdq-czzOeMHzQoyJIB0BIwRI2AXCSTGYe0GLRJwKxQnhnW_7oScuoMDR3YXIKgPZv-U/s640/aaa25.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This cemetery did not disappoint us; neither in mystery nor in the snails department. Its older portion was home to a series of <b>menhir-like tombstones</b>, seemingly dating from the distant past but actually made as recently as the 1950s. Before universal literacy and the advent of modern amenities such as roads, electricity and power tools, a lot of rural communities in Turkey used these primal forms - <a href="https://mongolianaltai.uoregon.edu/arch_sstones.php" target="_blank">throwbacks to the old Turkic tradition of </a><b><a href="https://mongolianaltai.uoregon.edu/arch_sstones.php" target="_blank">balbals</a> </b>- as headstones.</div>
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The enchanting stone forms, as well as the sensible practice of letting time have its way with the graves (as opposed to the oxymoronic modern custom of "cemetery maintenance"), resulted in a <b>truly magical atmosphere</b>. The trees shut the outside world away, their sinuous forms bracketing reality like extended brushstrokes from an art-nouveau painter. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCfcgbjJgLVgvNnPyWLevrB8P_xyl27kBmwNx6MpDfB-Y9_usfAHhkTX66UOlh1qvcl3ERFDDUC-C8tO_ASDE1F0fOIpiqGrfCseLaO5jIAYZUEoyGi0NEZniOFoEuFGGUw9SBo2X8Cw/s1600/aaa23.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCfcgbjJgLVgvNnPyWLevrB8P_xyl27kBmwNx6MpDfB-Y9_usfAHhkTX66UOlh1qvcl3ERFDDUC-C8tO_ASDE1F0fOIpiqGrfCseLaO5jIAYZUEoyGi0NEZniOFoEuFGGUw9SBo2X8Cw/s640/aaa23.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcJMTuvrdQPXfaGXpkWxvn51G-LTzZqdCu3OlA4aT6IANwKJFtwTf-Tq259YyhxrixTk6u0yodMI0MsuyRi39m6sUPYKXX2RluWhtwSc-QmCqd__Iiw3PzWNOCQ3NLmQmMt2R8vS8CyQ/s1600/aaa27.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcJMTuvrdQPXfaGXpkWxvn51G-LTzZqdCu3OlA4aT6IANwKJFtwTf-Tq259YyhxrixTk6u0yodMI0MsuyRi39m6sUPYKXX2RluWhtwSc-QmCqd__Iiw3PzWNOCQ3NLmQmMt2R8vS8CyQ/s640/aaa27.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Even more recent graves had a charming, folk-art quality about them. This gentleman had passed away in 1967 and two naive carvings of roses (or carnations) decorated his headstone.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtxqjWqDxEhd74HW12QR5ikjcDnKH7tuuOIt2rhlRjIi_lbohED9Zgfu7reXVPDePg7otVm9gjhCkYRc11qYcZ4DKm1jY37Xoq4QJaOQggzlSpaNg7bc9boIC2VMdFripPKqThaNieLQ/s1600/aaa26.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtxqjWqDxEhd74HW12QR5ikjcDnKH7tuuOIt2rhlRjIi_lbohED9Zgfu7reXVPDePg7otVm9gjhCkYRc11qYcZ4DKm1jY37Xoq4QJaOQggzlSpaNg7bc9boIC2VMdFripPKqThaNieLQ/s640/aaa26.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A little distance away, I found these reddish-brown mushrooms. I am at a complete loss over their identity. The undergrowth and fallen leaves were rarely cleaned in such village cemeteries, making them safe havens for all sorts of fungi, plants and invertebrates.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZnRDUwXJjo91p5yoz2kmEuoAkF6n-uQJc6oehVl2nAh9H1SBkK5s31dGN8P67KeyniN4BCMJU4bXJwa1KmrIPqeIO8Jaux07zd2EAZelssdbuPpbcW0lxaJWsiuKAt_JCqaPHLxiBWA/s1600/aaa28.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZnRDUwXJjo91p5yoz2kmEuoAkF6n-uQJc6oehVl2nAh9H1SBkK5s31dGN8P67KeyniN4BCMJU4bXJwa1KmrIPqeIO8Jaux07zd2EAZelssdbuPpbcW0lxaJWsiuKAt_JCqaPHLxiBWA/s640/aaa28.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The cemetery's invertebrate diversity included these adorable <i>Pomatias elegans</i> snails - "<b>land winkles</b>" as they are commonly known. They looked like tiny elephants up-close. I wanted to keep them as pets, and collected a few in a jar.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikIniOwkUnGFiMM3VHV3b-kNLYc-0iDV8y8Oi97GLmgNvBgoDclwzOl8Vel5bf1KaO18ECLRVNDtwMsGV_NVgbfi0zOJy3vnrWsm8mamAwOvdRysa5V-ZdfGjRX9tmefZPS-jSMcUtxE/s1600/aaa29.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikIniOwkUnGFiMM3VHV3b-kNLYc-0iDV8y8Oi97GLmgNvBgoDclwzOl8Vel5bf1KaO18ECLRVNDtwMsGV_NVgbfi0zOJy3vnrWsm8mamAwOvdRysa5V-ZdfGjRX9tmefZPS-jSMcUtxE/s640/aaa29.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The biggest surprise in Gümüşpınar was this bizarre, <b>Mad Max vehicle</b> we saw parked outside the cemetery.</div>
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Seemingly cobbled together from old cars, bus seats, tractor and motorbike parts and powered by an agricultural pump engine, this was the easily the <b>best vehicle</b> we'd come across in our lifetimes. To make things even more interesting, it had a totally metal <b>buzz-saw </b>mounted on a platform behind the seats.</div>
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Another detail of Gümüşpınar's <b>Mad Max vehicle</b>: Note the pedals and the DIY electrical gear system.</div>
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The vehicle was clearly operational - its tyres were inflated and its engine was well-oiled. Arsen took my photographs on it as we waited for its owner to show up.</div>
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We met him soon enough, a certain <b>Deniz Abi </b>(Mr. Deniz) - who drove this infernal machine from village to village; using the buzz-saw to carry out on-the-spot woodwork repairs and other odd jobs. He was also a groundskeeper who occasionally visited the village cemetery and took care of the trees that grew in it. (Ok, so the cemetery wasn't <u>completely</u> unattended).</div>
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Deniz Abi was very friendly and told us that he hadn't built the vehicle himself. Instead, <b>the Mad Max saw car</b> was a "gift" from an "interesting friend" a few years ago. After chatting with us for a while and demonstrating the buzz-saw, Deniz Abi hopped on his magnificent vehicle and drove away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9OUrg1b1_IBr15cCpjFNnlFbScQSW5NeU21ZyHKHn_1Zz2lN4Rm8tgUTNXeEbT2_-TGM111iRjqbv3tcfI6fwWn6fPh_77pmwNhLYbAf_Bli7Wqh83lG9ekbGDNmMIOfsHwa0Xrll-Afa/s1600/aaa33c.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9OUrg1b1_IBr15cCpjFNnlFbScQSW5NeU21ZyHKHn_1Zz2lN4Rm8tgUTNXeEbT2_-TGM111iRjqbv3tcfI6fwWn6fPh_77pmwNhLYbAf_Bli7Wqh83lG9ekbGDNmMIOfsHwa0Xrll-Afa/s640/aaa33c.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtkiZvVzQbDueyUxGkCGacWl7VR2aHXtK3B5N7GH60XCOkm-dglHDGiSzcmD4nY_F38ZztPM-z8LPWHb0cZkc-TJSfdQo8aBIoAoaESZkxqyUquq6t5h6xNjMidwGT8iBDQNXGfO_05cTV/s1600/aaa33b.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtkiZvVzQbDueyUxGkCGacWl7VR2aHXtK3B5N7GH60XCOkm-dglHDGiSzcmD4nY_F38ZztPM-z8LPWHb0cZkc-TJSfdQo8aBIoAoaESZkxqyUquq6t5h6xNjMidwGT8iBDQNXGfO_05cTV/s640/aaa33b.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The crazy vehicle reminded us that the lax application of laws and codes in Turkey was <b>a blessing in disguise</b>. Anywhere in Europe, this vehicle would be impounded by local authorities for violating safety codes, tax and road laws, not having the proper little stickers and so on - making life a little more dull for everyone concerned. Here in the backwater villages of Thrace, at least for the moment, the buzz-saw car still ran wild and free.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsEI1jL4OJwB5Pm1nY4D7DDKYywXk1Q6dhsIFcXnqgoi3Dbg6TxWOooOnfLozD3NmzU_XajSaa3REQM157APn68897nlv1lIDbT5uuJfbPzp6Du3vPZ9s8uh0m3y9YzswF9K1GPeRCfU/s1600/aaa35.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsEI1jL4OJwB5Pm1nY4D7DDKYywXk1Q6dhsIFcXnqgoi3Dbg6TxWOooOnfLozD3NmzU_XajSaa3REQM157APn68897nlv1lIDbT5uuJfbPzp6Du3vPZ9s8uh0m3y9YzswF9K1GPeRCfU/s640/aaa35.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Soon we took off too - and in a little while crossed the border between <b>Istanbul and</b> <b>Tekirdağ provinces</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBIkh2mtKu4hWoJsV7KwX88sULL8tdkaAvr8zrLPoO8nVkjGIC-2spSPzJ5cpFd_GGF0_WRAws5egHKNlRK4T8o6NHU11de_uSQ0nvIfXOjZQRLUblCaWANLNURsjrueCA4xdRKh39Vxs/s1600/aaa34.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBIkh2mtKu4hWoJsV7KwX88sULL8tdkaAvr8zrLPoO8nVkjGIC-2spSPzJ5cpFd_GGF0_WRAws5egHKNlRK4T8o6NHU11de_uSQ0nvIfXOjZQRLUblCaWANLNURsjrueCA4xdRKh39Vxs/s640/aaa34.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We drove for nearly an hour into Thrace proper. This time our conversations turned to the <a href="http://www.peopleofar.com/2015/01/05/the-hunt-for-armenian-treasures/" target="_blank"><b>absurd and pervasive lore of "treasure hunters" in Turkey</b></a> - people who thought every ancient ruin was the site of a magically-guarded hoard of gold and <a href="https://www.dailysabah.com/istanbul/2017/08/23/treasure-hunters-rush-to-istanbuls-kemerburgaz-after-rumors-of-150-kg-of-gold" target="_blank">vandalised archaeological sites as a result</a>.</div>
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Arsen had a wealth of stories - simultaneously ridiculous and tragic - about these types and their activities, and even the brief sampling he gave during this part of our trip could have formed the basis of a book. <b>"Treasure Hunters and Treasure Lore in Turkey"</b> - maybe Arsen will write it someday?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi72rMhdEXKgNG9-pPEgC_Q08ywCbeSYqOcBTSF1LOJtIrMeJgHFbbi6nkutHYcHUMGbeNIMV3E21yhuGQ23_MWmPC3XrEBmPUICHGXjuYnhHbVdvnb_EYsP8585pf5z69N_dmjBWaMLoE/s1600/aaa36.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi72rMhdEXKgNG9-pPEgC_Q08ywCbeSYqOcBTSF1LOJtIrMeJgHFbbi6nkutHYcHUMGbeNIMV3E21yhuGQ23_MWmPC3XrEBmPUICHGXjuYnhHbVdvnb_EYsP8585pf5z69N_dmjBWaMLoE/s640/aaa36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We got hungry after all the driving and talking, and stopped at the mid-sized town of <b>Saray</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgUsDpwSI_-c4zXhNcPjcDJExl87zazasIEEkrIS7llpu8wBbP8Qj-npsUzJwFQN2-cJPOxWBp8x0L1-N7QGPMsLDhTiZ6RQ5m2qougm6-NKsNk8aaZddVZqU9ToYUGheNoegF4hFCkc/s1600/aaa37.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgUsDpwSI_-c4zXhNcPjcDJExl87zazasIEEkrIS7llpu8wBbP8Qj-npsUzJwFQN2-cJPOxWBp8x0L1-N7QGPMsLDhTiZ6RQ5m2qougm6-NKsNk8aaZddVZqU9ToYUGheNoegF4hFCkc/s640/aaa37.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Like hundreds of other mid-sized Turkish towns; Saray was a series of <b>salmon-coloured apartments</b> clustered around a two-lane main street.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_9th-MS_VNwx23-oanbnqUTtIIOQj3Lcwq-3GUfgOjY86SyEE4GjgE3p6wK0MldXMSAXPfveVtatIhM06MFTatEEIZaH_wkJauPCZrG6yTTUhfO3uTb5pUuS1A91aOfgAMZGeA-NvT1I/s1600/aaa38.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_9th-MS_VNwx23-oanbnqUTtIIOQj3Lcwq-3GUfgOjY86SyEE4GjgE3p6wK0MldXMSAXPfveVtatIhM06MFTatEEIZaH_wkJauPCZrG6yTTUhfO3uTb5pUuS1A91aOfgAMZGeA-NvT1I/s640/aaa38.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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But it had one speciality - around the region Saray was well-known for its <b>delicious meatballs</b>. We sat down at the first restaurant we saw.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1leTLa3Wj6pEyowgqiZmWf6GcgY4ffTq2T5RfIt8QQSwiIEs9OOvH508KPuMFJEi7P4gzo5NqsOu7ug8s0lYMRyAzxUBQhuoEooxWWii6R7zXxCG_TUqYUvbkopHD3iwtxmMEXZ5Ef8/s1600/aaa39.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1leTLa3Wj6pEyowgqiZmWf6GcgY4ffTq2T5RfIt8QQSwiIEs9OOvH508KPuMFJEi7P4gzo5NqsOu7ug8s0lYMRyAzxUBQhuoEooxWWii6R7zXxCG_TUqYUvbkopHD3iwtxmMEXZ5Ef8/s640/aaa39.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We really enjoyed the tender, flattened meatballs. An idiosyncratic eater, I also ordered a plate of olive oil and bathed the meat in it before wolfing down, slice-by-slice. We had a <b>kings' feast</b> for the price one bowl of overpriced, stale salad would have fetched in high-street Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLvVffDT2xf6EeIXbgJbVjpRA6Qlo5KAqTGAG1q5qgUgjjRg1Fjszr4aVDLAylphzPs5lsX513kZuYxULVVtWk1lTmglOVuvyyNbrSGoDJinQ3qmnl9apf03Vwf0p3j5wNukqJS2ohIc/s1600/aaa41.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLvVffDT2xf6EeIXbgJbVjpRA6Qlo5KAqTGAG1q5qgUgjjRg1Fjszr4aVDLAylphzPs5lsX513kZuYxULVVtWk1lTmglOVuvyyNbrSGoDJinQ3qmnl9apf03Vwf0p3j5wNukqJS2ohIc/s640/aaa41.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We moved out of Saray after lunch, driving through the usual landscape of strange public and municipal buildings. Having travelled extensively around rural Turkey, Arsen had had enough of such buildings; but I still found some of them interesting enough to photograph. This was Saray's gaudily-painted <b>public school</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDJ9RmisnS5CoVtG6aw5e9jk3LJ9D0T5u_m1GI9gyJHvmn54YmDKgsy17DfEA5fnP5uho6_1_ZGO_yqAk15XoP_nYg0n_sCF2rOs79F1HMu-w6foGGyxLuX6KXZEB_j0csEmuH1kY4Jc/s1600/aaa42.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDJ9RmisnS5CoVtG6aw5e9jk3LJ9D0T5u_m1GI9gyJHvmn54YmDKgsy17DfEA5fnP5uho6_1_ZGO_yqAk15XoP_nYg0n_sCF2rOs79F1HMu-w6foGGyxLuX6KXZEB_j0csEmuH1kY4Jc/s640/aaa42.JPG" width="430" /></a></div>
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A little while later we passed by town's <b>twin-minaret mosque</b>, complete with the characteristic suite of adjacent shops and other commercial establishments. <b>Souped-up <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofa%C5%9F" target="_blank">TOFAŞ</a> cars</b> prowled the grounds like panthers. Quite uncharacteristically for a shop that formed part of a mosque's holdings, one of the stores (Elmas Gıda) sold alcohol. But this was Thrace, and people did things a little differently here. Although Moslem, people were more lenient in their attitudes concerning alcohol (and other things) in Turkey's western regions.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6Qtjo-ZuNH_pUPZNPbeN6Z8sr_4uQeuQQcNEgWAuUNL3GoFuFDsuqGT7uZ39q_5Ke3xc3bZsfyaSwYiyUxkQ3mEf_hIPPlXoMXtbqXUm7Js-mK19TSX0_rAhomTL2lynIxI0SIlzhMo/s1600/aaa43.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6Qtjo-ZuNH_pUPZNPbeN6Z8sr_4uQeuQQcNEgWAuUNL3GoFuFDsuqGT7uZ39q_5Ke3xc3bZsfyaSwYiyUxkQ3mEf_hIPPlXoMXtbqXUm7Js-mK19TSX0_rAhomTL2lynIxI0SIlzhMo/s640/aaa43.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Satisfied with our meal and regional observations, we pressed on with the road that led to the sea, towards where we hoped to find the <b>Hagia Nicola</b> Monastery...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26-Jmsjhe5rn2U-jN4jZuN6k_Qc-odQa9Ni5aXkmbUDM_Qv5YfIFS5VcAf_fbsZMk7C1NsVRaXhBjW9gaQgP5KHPu1o9Up9HNdNub_dOvmh69IsNzAWhHLGAzzQWaDXetR52ZM0x2f4A/s1600/aaa44.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26-Jmsjhe5rn2U-jN4jZuN6k_Qc-odQa9Ni5aXkmbUDM_Qv5YfIFS5VcAf_fbsZMk7C1NsVRaXhBjW9gaQgP5KHPu1o9Up9HNdNub_dOvmh69IsNzAWhHLGAzzQWaDXetR52ZM0x2f4A/s640/aaa44.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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...but first things first! I simply <i>had </i>to stop when we saw this gaudy statue of an eagle (or a hawk?) on the roadside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg-SqprCMt0aI2i7Yh4XAfy3tI8eCuBx94voQHnEso3bhBqS4Qnx9lLocgtrmAPjIUg89nuN7r-n-zhL-B8PcnS8fxofnas4j746gmPEPFhdKUTjtdzu7m8UjrY9kVU3sNliAqEKiZxf8/s1600/aaa45.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg-SqprCMt0aI2i7Yh4XAfy3tI8eCuBx94voQHnEso3bhBqS4Qnx9lLocgtrmAPjIUg89nuN7r-n-zhL-B8PcnS8fxofnas4j746gmPEPFhdKUTjtdzu7m8UjrY9kVU3sNliAqEKiZxf8/s640/aaa45.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Turkish roadsides; like their counterparts in the US, Australia and elsewhere, are host to bizarre statues and tourist attractions, usually sculpted and coloured in the most garish fashions imaginable. Usually there was also a magic dimension to their banality.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MJU_qg2y_g_-ItzEoMkj9dmi-AS2yDIvoV2C6cUT-B8TuZRC5a3Pdc-XD_gdmULJoz5xmersxnPOdtXT4Sfk85n_H5Hk7-f_LClN8z4d0ZTscsiQdNMEUQy6seIGcAZ5UJNBx_z6268/s1600/aaa46.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MJU_qg2y_g_-ItzEoMkj9dmi-AS2yDIvoV2C6cUT-B8TuZRC5a3Pdc-XD_gdmULJoz5xmersxnPOdtXT4Sfk85n_H5Hk7-f_LClN8z4d0ZTscsiQdNMEUQy6seIGcAZ5UJNBx_z6268/s640/aaa46.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This pigeon-faced concrete raptor was quite potent in the banal magic department.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29uwgbo5yJN1ZrCOZluwng3VEl5gTmexJyQWxohxwD7qCYBFAm-XikHP6q0FVHe36_Z0S6DY8KC12ZE6updYUJHok_2t00aOO6tmeA68rHXueAUnk6mJ-0z-GH_uOEZDz8jGmQQbjdd4/s1600/aaa47.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29uwgbo5yJN1ZrCOZluwng3VEl5gTmexJyQWxohxwD7qCYBFAm-XikHP6q0FVHe36_Z0S6DY8KC12ZE6updYUJHok_2t00aOO6tmeA68rHXueAUnk6mJ-0z-GH_uOEZDz8jGmQQbjdd4/s640/aaa47.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The statue sat atop a fountain with the following inscriptions:</div>
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<i>I used to flow on my own,</i></div>
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<i>I strived for much,</i></div>
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<i>For water to flow here.</i></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span></div>
<i></i><br />
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<i><i>May it do good,</i></i></div>
<i>
</i>
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<i>Now, to each life that drinks it.</i></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span></div>
<i></i><br />
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<i><i>May this be a blessing,</i></i></div>
<i>
</i>
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<i>Onto me in turn.</i></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span></div>
<i></i><br />
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<i><i>In the name of Hayrullah Ertekin,</i></i></div>
<i>
</i>
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<i>of Güngörmez village.</i></div>
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<i>Built by his family.</i></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span></div>
<i></i><br />
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<i><i>B. 11. 03. 1943 - D. 02. 08 2012</i></i></div>
<i>
</i>
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<span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span></div>
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Not quite Ozymandias, but there it was. It was tacky and garish but, I still thought I could discern faint gleams of animism and Turkic nature-worship in the giant eagle-fountain-memorial.</div>
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Years ago I had a fantasy of touring Anatolia and <b>making a picture-book of every weird Turkish roadside attraction in existence</b>. I soon realised that this would quickly turn into a Sisyphean task - the book would be volumes long; and <a href="https://img-s2.onedio.com/id-517d884318b366db45000011/rev-2/w-635/listing/f-jpg-webp/s-5c888f0e8fa5b4e21607da4e54fe162c5ecb904e.jpg" target="_blank">a</a> <a href="https://img-s1.onedio.com/id-517d884318b366db45000014/rev-2/w-635/listing/f-jpg-webp/s-f5a5c5a89f37647adf045a514a696c63da5b86a3.jpg" target="_blank">hundred</a> <a href="https://img-s2.onedio.com/id-517d884318b366db45000015/rev-2/w-635/listing/f-jpg-webp/s-0ebb94b00da788afc6137be6dd9c9eae6f3399ac.jpg" target="_blank">more</a> <a href="https://img-s2.onedio.com/id-517d884318b366db4500001f/rev-2/w-635/listing/f-jpg-webp/s-59c6bfefede7064bb302911e2484696180b5abfc.jpg" target="_blank">bad</a> <a href="https://img-s1.onedio.com/id-517d884318b366db45000028/rev-2/w-635/listing/f-jpg-webp/s-b640a6a7ffa42a5a1e28aeabd9a821258e51d0cd.jpg" target="_blank">statues</a> of hawks, bread loaves, strangely misshapen fruit and local produces would've gone up by the time I reached the end of the country.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbXiyzpevvdBz-IWPYWZHKnEMdPdieIrpxnqTBUwCZuoucB2CaFY0x0hS70gOoB2VBSAVoc3PSl5oyXIQDAnZhNHRnLrKPn2alUNGxk-9zQuQ8kmq8DoJh2LxUR4Gmqi1YNxMS82iIqhA/s1600/aaa48.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbXiyzpevvdBz-IWPYWZHKnEMdPdieIrpxnqTBUwCZuoucB2CaFY0x0hS70gOoB2VBSAVoc3PSl5oyXIQDAnZhNHRnLrKPn2alUNGxk-9zQuQ8kmq8DoJh2LxUR4Gmqi1YNxMS82iIqhA/s640/aaa48.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Leaving the malformed statue behind, we drove on to <b>Bahçeköy</b>, a small village among the isolated and well-wooded mountain forests that bordered the sea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuU7vLnRDWbSnEOm3QRin-DuwWAFYqnjm_4Yyc44z5whMNaymqnIOac0_J0SN9zNoMzd1TX8y8XrDEAwrP52l7_pnJSCK_M-dSLKfeQ-sNCMtgYIrR5Ro7hoeZnf8IrRsJAPbS2PzUH68/s1600/aaa49.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuU7vLnRDWbSnEOm3QRin-DuwWAFYqnjm_4Yyc44z5whMNaymqnIOac0_J0SN9zNoMzd1TX8y8XrDEAwrP52l7_pnJSCK_M-dSLKfeQ-sNCMtgYIrR5Ro7hoeZnf8IrRsJAPbS2PzUH68/s640/aaa49.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From here we could reach the <b>Hagia Nicola</b> <b>Monastery </b>and the nearby <b>Kastro Beach</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG2E87ZnKkyx5yIR0dsDwOqh956SSnZfktnPg-3_ZCUE_N2zdcFBxMGiQXmzI-IiAtpF-MGX-cOEp3sbPDK2cbQvYwaDs2g4YQmJt7R2zfP0Xcbn1ACp8l6pWzv36bi0JHhF8bsJbf_vo/s1600/aaa50.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG2E87ZnKkyx5yIR0dsDwOqh956SSnZfktnPg-3_ZCUE_N2zdcFBxMGiQXmzI-IiAtpF-MGX-cOEp3sbPDK2cbQvYwaDs2g4YQmJt7R2zfP0Xcbn1ACp8l6pWzv36bi0JHhF8bsJbf_vo/s640/aaa50.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We spent a few minutes in the town first. On first sight, Bahçeköy seemed to be another <b>standard-issue, sleepy-looking Thracian village</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3s7UMfXHtKqqcWmOrCu4PTvjvg4r9HVJecgRm9z4kDdHP4S1sngYmIaPPSgddAj0LEYiU6PfYSGkN1MmkYtqI4wt6_fDo6ZN6CnMRKyt5cWl6DDjWvkLQkpJWGjt4M-8W7Em5r15-lOI/s1600/aaa51.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3s7UMfXHtKqqcWmOrCu4PTvjvg4r9HVJecgRm9z4kDdHP4S1sngYmIaPPSgddAj0LEYiU6PfYSGkN1MmkYtqI4wt6_fDo6ZN6CnMRKyt5cWl6DDjWvkLQkpJWGjt4M-8W7Em5r15-lOI/s640/aaa51.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The exception was the local mosque, and two other structures which we didn't photograph, which were built in an inordinately elegant and stately fashion. A sign noted the <b>Bahçeköy Mosque's</b> construction date as 1905. We wondered if this mosque was built by a wealthy local, or by the Ottoman State to ascertain its presence in the region.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdiFSQzyDLHIS_TcDTJnjFYVNQBI3CY0tKhj-EtIsEjo8BKpxKNgrmVFhCExd80JJka_1psT6WhQ8o8RGEyexZU7-f0RrNoF99gHoH1qvMOJSa4fMPl7uY9hs7KjIv_bmcUl4Ybr6lkUQ/s1600/aaa52.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdiFSQzyDLHIS_TcDTJnjFYVNQBI3CY0tKhj-EtIsEjo8BKpxKNgrmVFhCExd80JJka_1psT6WhQ8o8RGEyexZU7-f0RrNoF99gHoH1qvMOJSa4fMPl7uY9hs7KjIv_bmcUl4Ybr6lkUQ/s640/aaa52.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Right opposite the mosque we saw this recent statue of <b>Atatürk</b>, in an unfortunately less-than-elegant style and choice of materials.</div>
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<b>Symbols and idols mattered in Turkey</b>, perhaps more severely than the rest of the world was comfortable with. Bahçeköy, as well as most of Tekirdağ province, were holdouts of secular nationalists who opposed Turkey's current ruler and his religious politics. Small towns like Bahçeköy liked to exclaim their pro-secular (and anti-Erdoğan) allegiance with statues like this.</div>
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It was a pity there wasn't much room left these days in the Turkish public sphere for being secular <b>and </b><u>not</u> an extreme nationalist, but hey, life was imperfect!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipTFqoYsluu5IDbtWEXW79WMJTHk_Xmg7rI6qNEmNrH4qhITyn0pJOvASvMhSnPjtpojdIe7dt78Bco0ihYeoq9B9RD-PcrPLTa9gIpSoxQrvp9AQBtIOVF-DW5VL_T0uuB4cwlbQM88/s1600/aaa53.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipTFqoYsluu5IDbtWEXW79WMJTHk_Xmg7rI6qNEmNrH4qhITyn0pJOvASvMhSnPjtpojdIe7dt78Bco0ihYeoq9B9RD-PcrPLTa9gIpSoxQrvp9AQBtIOVF-DW5VL_T0uuB4cwlbQM88/s640/aaa53.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We left Bahçeköy and drove on, deciding to visit <b>Kastro Beach </b>before going to <b>Hagia Nicola</b>. This beach had somehow inherited Bahçeköy's older name; while the village had been renamed as Turkish refugees from the Balkan Wars and later on, the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Population_exchange_between_Greece_and_Turkey" target="_blank">Greco-Turkish population exchange</a>, replaced the town's Greek residents, and ultimately, its Greek name.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqpOSETEPaaUK-OYx6zi2CxVlAOvh9BB-T2V5qnMdGhnzfigTx5PdlaqgGcSmazsm3ZxiaBzy86dxWFJ68CNjkwimt5th-OTMic-fLzJ90PtXFo4FmnST-oZUn97sL7xtWp8aeH2VfpA/s1600/aaa54.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqpOSETEPaaUK-OYx6zi2CxVlAOvh9BB-T2V5qnMdGhnzfigTx5PdlaqgGcSmazsm3ZxiaBzy86dxWFJ68CNjkwimt5th-OTMic-fLzJ90PtXFo4FmnST-oZUn97sL7xtWp8aeH2VfpA/s640/aaa54.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A cold-rainforest-type climate set in; <b>beautiful tamarisks, lavender-like plants</b> <b>and ferns</b> appeared on the roadsides as we travelled closer to the sea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKKQ5kREEb-nAF2w9gEhrMjS2vxsA7-9i7bAIPerj-GjvnVso1coic2jPbFglIWTFKAEk2CRi1itDhfjDt6zJiJ_vV7M01xtiEI9YMaHBW5KrfvriuYne1tcCbpEffv7onMM3RJxGSELE/s1600/aaa55.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKKQ5kREEb-nAF2w9gEhrMjS2vxsA7-9i7bAIPerj-GjvnVso1coic2jPbFglIWTFKAEk2CRi1itDhfjDt6zJiJ_vV7M01xtiEI9YMaHBW5KrfvriuYne1tcCbpEffv7onMM3RJxGSELE/s640/aaa55.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We soon reached Kastro Beach.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfxDN4PE_0QiY9LmNj1JH6Cpahst8aJfGqaeVhLOeYO6seT9ABIRjjTv86g4cbG9kWgnHVYvu4nHFzzq3lvE9lk8GPR6e2SBnS6ntigIS7HTOELxiFQo-W5ohucehPEQ1AvraWwb2g5m8/s1600/aaa56.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfxDN4PE_0QiY9LmNj1JH6Cpahst8aJfGqaeVhLOeYO6seT9ABIRjjTv86g4cbG9kWgnHVYvu4nHFzzq3lvE9lk8GPR6e2SBnS6ntigIS7HTOELxiFQo-W5ohucehPEQ1AvraWwb2g5m8/s640/aaa56.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We were expecting a dank, cold stretch of dirty sand, but instead Kastro Beach turned out to be an extremely beautiful, solemn place. <b>Arsen and I immediately regretted not coming here with our significant others</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynRprXTK-hg2zgk0f6D9MhGL_jOT1Utd0W9pBpe6lRp1RoBSoYsVUPWkSOceXdjtNgt2RC2-bFJpML3xOb5VeFb6roIfshJ5HGi6xlY10f8wDOnbmi52oEpMpSIy0IAf55JKVhC7yoSk/s1600/aaa57.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynRprXTK-hg2zgk0f6D9MhGL_jOT1Utd0W9pBpe6lRp1RoBSoYsVUPWkSOceXdjtNgt2RC2-bFJpML3xOb5VeFb6roIfshJ5HGi6xlY10f8wDOnbmi52oEpMpSIy0IAf55JKVhC7yoSk/s640/aaa57.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Towards the northeast we could see jagged racks and strange natural arches sculpted by the waves as the furious Black Sea bit into the metamorphic rock shelf that formed Northwestern Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmehmY8AHLSmXk3GeD3M1ISO0q04Q7MJmW0fYwYZGZ5naB0zKCgFOu_OJmuKzbyMoRVNvOFbY66afAmSQ_8V1ml47TK_ZetLog4LoV6vjIDPyp84Q5TGM4ySIJk_KHkzLr0A6MIhI4I8Sd/s1600/aaa58.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmehmY8AHLSmXk3GeD3M1ISO0q04Q7MJmW0fYwYZGZ5naB0zKCgFOu_OJmuKzbyMoRVNvOFbY66afAmSQ_8V1ml47TK_ZetLog4LoV6vjIDPyp84Q5TGM4ySIJk_KHkzLr0A6MIhI4I8Sd/s640/aaa58.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The silent, expansive beach, the waves and the strange rocks in the distance formed a mystical and romantic atmosphere. At any moment, I expected <b><a href="http://www.elihuvedder.org/thumbnail/117000/117073/slider1140x520/Lair-Of-The-Sea-Serpent.jpg?ts=1459229076" target="_blank">Elihu Vedder's dark Serpent</a></b> or his Saturnian <b><a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5262/5610384397_4f1afec0eb_b.jpg" target="_blank">Sphinx of the Seashore</a></b> to come out creeping from among the dunes...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifb034IQdZjrkiBVsiwiN8vfFp2keqW5n6up41K8eCUgFWJVrr4NWfxMs-avaDMHHToBz4FahXgTfeP-xE4iGRUMkrjYogcPlJiuTDKA77BtYmVvEJPu6ggFIJkmc5ZPacrfulOqMD3O7g/s1600/aaa59.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifb034IQdZjrkiBVsiwiN8vfFp2keqW5n6up41K8eCUgFWJVrr4NWfxMs-avaDMHHToBz4FahXgTfeP-xE4iGRUMkrjYogcPlJiuTDKA77BtYmVvEJPu6ggFIJkmc5ZPacrfulOqMD3O7g/s640/aaa59.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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...instead, we got this <b>Arabic Coke bottle</b>. This was strange, because there are no Arabic countries bordering the Black Sea. It was likely chucked overboard from one of the thousands of commercial vessels that passed through the region every month.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2bDOETyC4FyiU2Hr8grbQpPqD6yWjwZBz_vZ19eM6W2UiHQU6biNpPU8xiUZc-FnfgHcPobMy6w5SPAIpzqERh5rmjfr3rerDTpKT4HNfeRSmJ5xP_y8imD_P1Rp-_val8FKAgPvLA4sW/s1600/aaa60.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2bDOETyC4FyiU2Hr8grbQpPqD6yWjwZBz_vZ19eM6W2UiHQU6biNpPU8xiUZc-FnfgHcPobMy6w5SPAIpzqERh5rmjfr3rerDTpKT4HNfeRSmJ5xP_y8imD_P1Rp-_val8FKAgPvLA4sW/s640/aaa60.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We spent some time walking along the beach, enjoying the beautiful and utterly lonely view. The landscape inspired <b>Arsen </b>with fantasies of Byronesque descriptive essays, while my mind wandered off to more romantic speculations - how cool it would be if we encountered a couple of wandering, free-spirited hippie girls right then and there? Answer: Very, but we didn't meet any that day.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkVC3EEVYN4VY6AVXVy1c4ZEbjlnWYw0o4fgCSeuqFVeqAV0MFxpBQ1JJscvM9h8G1bkwAozFSuMepdgORfFZDxVGGKBygWy0vRI8oz1pC900pj6TJukKUFcH4073Q6KGonPOpB01ry1M/s1600/aaa61.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkVC3EEVYN4VY6AVXVy1c4ZEbjlnWYw0o4fgCSeuqFVeqAV0MFxpBQ1JJscvM9h8G1bkwAozFSuMepdgORfFZDxVGGKBygWy0vRI8oz1pC900pj6TJukKUFcH4073Q6KGonPOpB01ry1M/s640/aaa61.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I compiled this high-resolution panorama from several distinct photographs, you can download the image for a larger view.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_SlmephPZfeLjcfkBySvgDjQ6_FQ0fJ2UxtbKBMzSQy-eHgb-R9X2w4IhlbWawsi4MPFJME3CqhEjDdMd-NiRyFtboV_56tAy8Jajq1XTvujfnWbLcx-bAbiGUoWwW-DDiUIoXjetR4j/s1600/aaa62.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_SlmephPZfeLjcfkBySvgDjQ6_FQ0fJ2UxtbKBMzSQy-eHgb-R9X2w4IhlbWawsi4MPFJME3CqhEjDdMd-NiRyFtboV_56tAy8Jajq1XTvujfnWbLcx-bAbiGUoWwW-DDiUIoXjetR4j/s640/aaa62.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We saw these rows of tents, poignant memories of summer. I think some people were still staying in them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb1yGKyYcuGr-xizf1TR2UvsgzCmmg8EomevVqCmyVHRTesS6Pprc4kNztxPP5ZmIi7FI8yN5xDeqPOPJyphUIGu-C9eeqaB1u__lmfFdhFzHLo9jX1UHtEMjoIeoI0cWfGjUCfikJDfAG/s1600/aaa63.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb1yGKyYcuGr-xizf1TR2UvsgzCmmg8EomevVqCmyVHRTesS6Pprc4kNztxPP5ZmIi7FI8yN5xDeqPOPJyphUIGu-C9eeqaB1u__lmfFdhFzHLo9jX1UHtEMjoIeoI0cWfGjUCfikJDfAG/s640/aaa63.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>A variety of exotic plants</b> were growing on the sandbars behind the beach.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghs-fDa1NEaa7tcKNK_3KjsrIjNqqTbkFex0yKjOBbtGx56PDEJo6NW7Fj0dGk4JR8GgQT0drZ8cyudjYwI-HYGTOF8WuiJh1-6-wPLfU1FHO2dX4HQWfjJ3wvbk9BRB0TkYO_yTvmHC3R/s1600/aaa64.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghs-fDa1NEaa7tcKNK_3KjsrIjNqqTbkFex0yKjOBbtGx56PDEJo6NW7Fj0dGk4JR8GgQT0drZ8cyudjYwI-HYGTOF8WuiJh1-6-wPLfU1FHO2dX4HQWfjJ3wvbk9BRB0TkYO_yTvmHC3R/s640/aaa64.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I quickly embarked on a <b>mini-botanical expedition</b> on the dunes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV83tgEb1fQHOppkE7rUkyJAlVXOzi_F1oN44iL8IhOyY2bLqeH4ep1u91a3jYynmWsuMZygB8CdDfI4qm2KWx08on7pcEm3K4lYETRVsNKBzvrGjCN_ODiEk05Xs6xadDYZz6U-kAh2yL/s1600/aaa65.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV83tgEb1fQHOppkE7rUkyJAlVXOzi_F1oN44iL8IhOyY2bLqeH4ep1u91a3jYynmWsuMZygB8CdDfI4qm2KWx08on7pcEm3K4lYETRVsNKBzvrGjCN_ODiEk05Xs6xadDYZz6U-kAh2yL/s640/aaa65.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not being very botanically-competent, I could only identify a few of these beautiful plants. For most IDs, I'm indebted to the <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/IFLbotany/" target="_blank">IFL Botany page on Facebook</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgivV3oJJQMH_Dvj2rHUzqkg7O-sY0Rbmd24s2h-tGnKGhyphenhyphenitZ8667ersCOU3TZNVh-xTVPQKw63Y_w48-9I3iN4KDEJBSJAlpVQdKtFltSKzldfLIXN0BeCiyFOaCaYHeUE7f1IX1jcvda/s1600/aaa79.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgivV3oJJQMH_Dvj2rHUzqkg7O-sY0Rbmd24s2h-tGnKGhyphenhyphenitZ8667ersCOU3TZNVh-xTVPQKw63Y_w48-9I3iN4KDEJBSJAlpVQdKtFltSKzldfLIXN0BeCiyFOaCaYHeUE7f1IX1jcvda/s640/aaa79.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A red, orange and yellow fireworks display inside the spiky branches of <i>Salsola sp.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9CPmqJW51Fyc27Th73WWc1WxVWehnTFhVtdmVEoPONZCiovofwSbBXaO6qVLUbE-Yjr0M-Z-4SWamGkBR9Bp7GoCJMP69U0D7IkjAG_Rhjfj6eq51mdjz1eaBBrI8iEnRYC2Ev8e5JR2/s1600/aaa78.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9CPmqJW51Fyc27Th73WWc1WxVWehnTFhVtdmVEoPONZCiovofwSbBXaO6qVLUbE-Yjr0M-Z-4SWamGkBR9Bp7GoCJMP69U0D7IkjAG_Rhjfj6eq51mdjz1eaBBrI8iEnRYC2Ev8e5JR2/s640/aaa78.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<i>Xanthium sp, </i>a type of cocklebur.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBu-QugF6Eok-w-i9gplYSO4BWx0E_DnhtUnh5NZ7HKQpxHVrt_lcsRPdxgkzAJEhoJUEDxVmHKW9Y96W4qVNKd_8eSpUs8ci5wcC6ih_RKy0GizQKUzkrACMcX3FY11l-_17WL2-TP43/s1600/aaa77.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBu-QugF6Eok-w-i9gplYSO4BWx0E_DnhtUnh5NZ7HKQpxHVrt_lcsRPdxgkzAJEhoJUEDxVmHKW9Y96W4qVNKd_8eSpUs8ci5wcC6ih_RKy0GizQKUzkrACMcX3FY11l-_17WL2-TP43/s640/aaa77.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Cakile </i>flowers, family <i>Brassicaseae</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hnA9eJ7Kg-pF9htqNq7MYliEHs3LUtP94SBYuDDLsv6dAZMqhqBD5Fc65QmrW3lA1GNqaI6OHeFh1paAmEYRpefxn0fLyUbh5FQaUnRSwCZTVBIt5tXIGdbpUjiZnoy7PxxEUBQSmdOC/s1600/aaa75.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hnA9eJ7Kg-pF9htqNq7MYliEHs3LUtP94SBYuDDLsv6dAZMqhqBD5Fc65QmrW3lA1GNqaI6OHeFh1paAmEYRpefxn0fLyUbh5FQaUnRSwCZTVBIt5tXIGdbpUjiZnoy7PxxEUBQSmdOC/s640/aaa75.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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No positive ID for this guy I'm afraid.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqdFwjRO21DbANQBkxIHfBIQVfAAvNVpCkTukfVbCyLcXuLzyWT5fn9HVC-Mr5TFHcbln5ja70A0NCwMJW8QBeVJEczUO_Cpp0M4gJ6q_0mczV0hLTE_wVGxIG5Obv-CyTcQnxb2wN08X/s1600/aaa74.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqdFwjRO21DbANQBkxIHfBIQVfAAvNVpCkTukfVbCyLcXuLzyWT5fn9HVC-Mr5TFHcbln5ja70A0NCwMJW8QBeVJEczUO_Cpp0M4gJ6q_0mczV0hLTE_wVGxIG5Obv-CyTcQnxb2wN08X/s640/aaa74.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Salsola sp.</i> again</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmGcoLiffgcIQRq9gU0Ad9ZhZp_G0OGR4uyUMjVUOVw5dkY4GU0A9UxABdsYatSM9e61-tA2pmbstKqS6r9SJyQl7WIE_vDtVtusMP13Tms8GXqCuojwvzSL4y93Y2oiW58CPGXA13ULNr/s1600/aaa73.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmGcoLiffgcIQRq9gU0Ad9ZhZp_G0OGR4uyUMjVUOVw5dkY4GU0A9UxABdsYatSM9e61-tA2pmbstKqS6r9SJyQl7WIE_vDtVtusMP13Tms8GXqCuojwvzSL4y93Y2oiW58CPGXA13ULNr/s640/aaa73.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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These beautiful orchids, <i>Pancratium maritimum</i>, were the star attractions of the beach. This species occurred all around the Mediterranean basin, but was threatened in the Black Sea coast, its northernmost habitat. In Hebrew, this was one of the several plants called <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">חבצלת </span><b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">החוף</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif;"> - </span></b></span><b>the Rose of Sharon.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGkuTHcBSpnfueLINvn71HkRMG3htoLwEQL_SE7q6wOT6nKpHriVx7G5kcePE7-mJlzhVWCRXGnoRuALbrvSKn2zNZkfYs0dR-uGK20wQLJ1SYWCKwmsWRSiJNvHng1aUo5TsFxbq4CtGw/s1600/aaa71.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGkuTHcBSpnfueLINvn71HkRMG3htoLwEQL_SE7q6wOT6nKpHriVx7G5kcePE7-mJlzhVWCRXGnoRuALbrvSKn2zNZkfYs0dR-uGK20wQLJ1SYWCKwmsWRSiJNvHng1aUo5TsFxbq4CtGw/s640/aaa71.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The flowers' bulbs, when broken open, scattered seeds in the loveliest shade of black.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJ83fmLz9XmvTYSiitvoryN4IJShDh4LcKyh2K6C3sL8QzQ9Tt451TGlWyyJPey3ecHCa9TgqIdj3sOSvX5J5842MTycC0z6UFIOlipHcKUXHqPZZEkmrLhoQokaCDE7Quevdrh86b9tp/s1600/aaa72.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJ83fmLz9XmvTYSiitvoryN4IJShDh4LcKyh2K6C3sL8QzQ9Tt451TGlWyyJPey3ecHCa9TgqIdj3sOSvX5J5842MTycC0z6UFIOlipHcKUXHqPZZEkmrLhoQokaCDE7Quevdrh86b9tp/s640/aaa72.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Asteraceae </i>sp. - not a very distinct ID, since this plant family has tens of thousands of species.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicIfzeI1TcygJrwtr9gsojKJx2ABqxjJvyTuqna7PCOkdI3Fgn_QX9HgGGdpmacABDuJj9dUvuW90spiY9PIMHF1cWNYRa9Mj5AAFlD7my5YMKy1gSe4YKg8JkYaxobVSrHTxbCYyxps5Q/s1600/aaa70.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicIfzeI1TcygJrwtr9gsojKJx2ABqxjJvyTuqna7PCOkdI3Fgn_QX9HgGGdpmacABDuJj9dUvuW90spiY9PIMHF1cWNYRa9Mj5AAFlD7my5YMKy1gSe4YKg8JkYaxobVSrHTxbCYyxps5Q/s640/aaa70.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A spiny, dried seed from one of the <i>Xanthium </i>plants we'd seen earlier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayjvaCaFBQIixZGlanP3t-XeE5ai8qrOmWY5Sr5tUJ8zb6EsdO5ljQWclm6GUfwNzc2C8LNnzclp1pcJH7lHn8MyU0bGzyiB1BRbiv63p_pwpNOq-Bf6Mv_82g2fmqn04_4Xsk7IdTGGL/s1600/aaa69.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayjvaCaFBQIixZGlanP3t-XeE5ai8qrOmWY5Sr5tUJ8zb6EsdO5ljQWclm6GUfwNzc2C8LNnzclp1pcJH7lHn8MyU0bGzyiB1BRbiv63p_pwpNOq-Bf6Mv_82g2fmqn04_4Xsk7IdTGGL/s640/aaa69.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some sort of pinkish, fleshy umbellifer, <i>Apiaceae sp</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Y2vNonKUKCrsruDdRyjuCd-wUhG7cYP9nOCaiqFMHQksRYwd-wNP3iZMlmDUHFLbWvTs-A1NxWPF2q65xZs1FAHQmz1YWG0WBCZU2yVQImiAAJt2LDWxDHf9xV9Vov_iE_6pYZKKzrR/s1600/aaa68.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Y2vNonKUKCrsruDdRyjuCd-wUhG7cYP9nOCaiqFMHQksRYwd-wNP3iZMlmDUHFLbWvTs-A1NxWPF2q65xZs1FAHQmz1YWG0WBCZU2yVQImiAAJt2LDWxDHf9xV9Vov_iE_6pYZKKzrR/s640/aaa68.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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These beautiful, <b>silver-electric plants</b> also evaded identification.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44Mr8FLsSeOSfJjwfx3ys0IT6ZyUQ5VPfAwB5NbglJNzRTLqPfJ76qqduDUAGP40BO6saNeDi2qD3GzAD3XceYZWf7MmlGDJdcNT2S1WMSkcNL7ycAWXtq3q2E2PPjcjlRE3Jt9q6q5de/s1600/aaa67.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44Mr8FLsSeOSfJjwfx3ys0IT6ZyUQ5VPfAwB5NbglJNzRTLqPfJ76qqduDUAGP40BO6saNeDi2qD3GzAD3XceYZWf7MmlGDJdcNT2S1WMSkcNL7ycAWXtq3q2E2PPjcjlRE3Jt9q6q5de/s640/aaa67.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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A variety of spiky <i>Eryngium</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicESTvOri3CHFW8db7snD7zQRUIP0sb4MVoD35aW3XosSzo9t7B4YGr3LaX6QplWxR86V3b7gpF2HjPS6T33hE1cys4a2udhSNprSU8uOTnp69vsp-BNCTN217oafiSfmHMb1px9zVe-k/s1600/aaa80.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicESTvOri3CHFW8db7snD7zQRUIP0sb4MVoD35aW3XosSzo9t7B4YGr3LaX6QplWxR86V3b7gpF2HjPS6T33hE1cys4a2udhSNprSU8uOTnp69vsp-BNCTN217oafiSfmHMb1px9zVe-k/s640/aaa80.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The only animals I could find among this explosion of flowers were these shiny, smooth <b>pitted beetles</b>. Identifying most beetles down to species level is so frustratingly difficult that I just threw my hands in the air, called it <i>Coleoptera sp.</i> and moved on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijkdGJ9eJ_Ayph7omuIVjHj8rqJBZa1nkFWa5yPUjM5Bv1BqZk5h3OozXyNo0Au11t-7CI85q3nk-QHSky5D4RxGt_Naj5i5e6J8kxu6eigYAsBS277zue2G1tKOt3y1uXhorjQCKx-pT5/s1600/aaa81.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijkdGJ9eJ_Ayph7omuIVjHj8rqJBZa1nkFWa5yPUjM5Bv1BqZk5h3OozXyNo0Au11t-7CI85q3nk-QHSky5D4RxGt_Naj5i5e6J8kxu6eigYAsBS277zue2G1tKOt3y1uXhorjQCKx-pT5/s640/aaa81.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Looking at plants and insects, we walked along the beach towards some closed, restaurant-type establishments.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIUMU-FkEu-TLpxRgU4DieTkmPZ1wPuvsA3tRVTEJMNGfwSco9w6wl23NMk6MAkI-XuzcdFgoyJCN_1xf1N95T9AuLZfh0q6X6vZmOLPhi9uTG-xiQ1AzrP23CyzmLL41MovqRj-MAjDu/s1600/aaa83.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIUMU-FkEu-TLpxRgU4DieTkmPZ1wPuvsA3tRVTEJMNGfwSco9w6wl23NMk6MAkI-XuzcdFgoyJCN_1xf1N95T9AuLZfh0q6X6vZmOLPhi9uTG-xiQ1AzrP23CyzmLL41MovqRj-MAjDu/s640/aaa83.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The authorities had woken up to the ecological significance of Kastro Beach and had declared it a nature reserve (after changing the name to Çamlıköy). We also saw a futile and supremely ugly booth, covered with tasteless stock images of flowers blocking its windows, and a sign: <b>ID RETURN</b>.</div>
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I guessed someone had come up with the brilliant plan to collect people's ID cards, charge them money for walking on the beach and then RETURN their IDs after they had come back. The extremely petty scheme likely hadn't worked, and the ID RETURN booth lay empty and rotting next to the nature reserve sign.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipkb95DJup_gQUSn6Z0rDBtaVmIw9l6qNVlfRPhX-QP87nCWCLRYabl_DMHir08caJKiyoP5EohfL844Qo6xtn-KYOESyiZeaYETKSA4DtynWIMEFTDfgwrB1O4p5tnhLYaE6SBDkU9PSF/s1600/aaa84.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipkb95DJup_gQUSn6Z0rDBtaVmIw9l6qNVlfRPhX-QP87nCWCLRYabl_DMHir08caJKiyoP5EohfL844Qo6xtn-KYOESyiZeaYETKSA4DtynWIMEFTDfgwrB1O4p5tnhLYaE6SBDkU9PSF/s640/aaa84.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A short distance from this depressing folly we came across a river, with airy, 1970s-style concrete bungalows lining the opposite shore. The houses had a naive elegance about them, they looked like places you'd want to hole up for three months and write a book in.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtBJ2QaNT3xygruMS1OssTjPsdZGyVGT0Dq1xqkJb2ugloBq8NffLvRBQw6PNwPxikDMohomHvfScP7xhNkPq42uFztBIk7eryHnOrnGrswQXvwKq19PQrF4aKrZB9YkpGTLKdJxyHVOt/s1600/aaa85.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtBJ2QaNT3xygruMS1OssTjPsdZGyVGT0Dq1xqkJb2ugloBq8NffLvRBQw6PNwPxikDMohomHvfScP7xhNkPq42uFztBIk7eryHnOrnGrswQXvwKq19PQrF4aKrZB9YkpGTLKdJxyHVOt/s640/aaa85.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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On our side of the river we found a restaurant, currently closed and home to several shifty men drinking beer, listening to music on their smartphones and talking. I couldn't take their pictures, but they told us we could rent one of the several pedal boats and explore the river, if we liked.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegsvfPZE76g7Gl_jrK3xy1GmudQNrjrfBqRBDz8MLrVx4CRgaf2bDqCFWjxEBx89jzmTDy9bMBPe2AmBk7_o9IwAVaQzcf3H5fS9pLhfujFLkw3JxPQu11uI6HsrYFSZTxiftgc9SRuXP/s1600/aaa86.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegsvfPZE76g7Gl_jrK3xy1GmudQNrjrfBqRBDz8MLrVx4CRgaf2bDqCFWjxEBx89jzmTDy9bMBPe2AmBk7_o9IwAVaQzcf3H5fS9pLhfujFLkw3JxPQu11uI6HsrYFSZTxiftgc9SRuXP/s640/aaa86.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The river went up from the beach for several kilometres, with a distinct, Lord of the Rings-type ambience. We were sorely tempted, but <b>in the end we decided to call it a day for Kastro Beach.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQeGBzZLvFHg8BXzR9TydV_i_zdizUnLmYnnRl-LQmjgyX58xrBTkrGrtTFdh1MoCLypcWroYg2CovKKjnIGpKllBdpAd15HtsxD0wHvONhm0w3YCXUGQIXSGy59NYhzoDdvIZbgoYLYR/s1600/aaa88.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQeGBzZLvFHg8BXzR9TydV_i_zdizUnLmYnnRl-LQmjgyX58xrBTkrGrtTFdh1MoCLypcWroYg2CovKKjnIGpKllBdpAd15HtsxD0wHvONhm0w3YCXUGQIXSGy59NYhzoDdvIZbgoYLYR/s640/aaa88.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Our main objective, the <b>Hagia Nicola</b> Monastery, lay a short drive away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1JTsMxtwhDcmA3UvQXOWQKZZl-ELin7Nq3Qrh5l2yS-jFoyyblmh1SRXX873O41rT_YaqnLPyCJ8D7G-uCeUrf8GNFhcFJLwmZZMZx8DKNldDtfiHEx40JkWj9aPVSh-hBub-zy7ocapP/s1600/aaa89.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1JTsMxtwhDcmA3UvQXOWQKZZl-ELin7Nq3Qrh5l2yS-jFoyyblmh1SRXX873O41rT_YaqnLPyCJ8D7G-uCeUrf8GNFhcFJLwmZZMZx8DKNldDtfiHEx40JkWj9aPVSh-hBub-zy7ocapP/s640/aaa89.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We passed a bridge over a pleasant riverside pasture on the way. We stopped the car - the only sounds were the cowbells of the herd below us, the gentle pattering of rain, and the distant roar of the sea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdzJbmGS3CqtYnYBtW5IzDGX05S7jtej_kR8iPjIx4VB_aHy-sbB_dSGi_22jjzddOBs39px9iC7WNdkqYtxx-fHhPLbzndCg4Z4BGys7Wq1M0EUVcScCdeOnQ4JaUOs7F3YAPPHlf6AW5/s1600/aaa91.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdzJbmGS3CqtYnYBtW5IzDGX05S7jtej_kR8iPjIx4VB_aHy-sbB_dSGi_22jjzddOBs39px9iC7WNdkqYtxx-fHhPLbzndCg4Z4BGys7Wq1M0EUVcScCdeOnQ4JaUOs7F3YAPPHlf6AW5/s640/aaa91.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We savoured the fresh pastoral scene for a few moments, and drove on to the Hagia Nicola Monastery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0GqN3B9w_e6OoR-cCFI3vuEMZNTuUX6DRPsicO36jFJDuQmeE_bc3S77MgXf8SILGW8dTz94a9_5rtmwc9Wu_a2G08TprogKqaeKujQGGs5QXj5Fx6xAK4d_3KDy38UGPTGgSi7n66BD/s1600/aaa92.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0GqN3B9w_e6OoR-cCFI3vuEMZNTuUX6DRPsicO36jFJDuQmeE_bc3S77MgXf8SILGW8dTz94a9_5rtmwc9Wu_a2G08TprogKqaeKujQGGs5QXj5Fx6xAK4d_3KDy38UGPTGgSi7n66BD/s640/aaa92.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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En route we passed by this shepherd dude, chatting away on his iPhone.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pv_hSQG7kbxqRToUybavK_RCwUK9hxYUuKU5WbZpS43c2OBrxwLNf_wTQxXpyREv5FhMQGRoyc0WQMS9qgFQtqlALq2pwbl1qhXBIFgOzl_rxzeKjM5H-n8eUphAsPDyFhXzJvp85V3T/s1600/aaa93.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pv_hSQG7kbxqRToUybavK_RCwUK9hxYUuKU5WbZpS43c2OBrxwLNf_wTQxXpyREv5FhMQGRoyc0WQMS9qgFQtqlALq2pwbl1qhXBIFgOzl_rxzeKjM5H-n8eUphAsPDyFhXzJvp85V3T/s640/aaa93.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We actually crossed another province border, this time <b>from Tekirdağ to Kırklareli</b>, while driving the short distance to Hagia Nicola. As the result of a cartographic quirk, the tiny strip of Kastro Beach was the only outlet Tekirdağ province had to the Black Sea. The shoreline belonged to <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C4%B1rklareli_Province" target="_blank">Kırklareli Province</a> </b>immediately after <b>Kastro Beach</b>. This town, <b>Kıyıköy</b>, was our first impression of Kırklareli. It didn't look too different from some of the other places we'd passed through.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yKRHbT5twpx0djsWT5QQvrT_3azwVifIsRN_IlJ3RXxVvjk0G77jSaeRfi0uWviuT7UvPkZbBqSqvQGXAMj-DkWXo6tZgRVQGequsTu5ZO8D0URmkKCph8HQpVE_gGBGQyzJPR0RCija/s1600/aaa94.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yKRHbT5twpx0djsWT5QQvrT_3azwVifIsRN_IlJ3RXxVvjk0G77jSaeRfi0uWviuT7UvPkZbBqSqvQGXAMj-DkWXo6tZgRVQGequsTu5ZO8D0URmkKCph8HQpVE_gGBGQyzJPR0RCija/s640/aaa94.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We <i>finally </i>arrived at the <b>Hagia Nicola Monastery</b>. We were expecting a mystical, half-ruined edifice deep inside a forest, or overlooking a craggy seaside cliff. Instead, we were greeted by an everyday scene of clucking tourists, stuffed tour buses...</div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_91EbhOK_wkOA6fATvJscPwPZJJXTaOvQgWucv3Vsuzzj23i0gRKp1_KMKSEQ69fO5tgrxF38OoYA4MIsqEiT09dl4TxgY9N2Pbdclnbx6rsz939g0mCvFx4qzBo2Z_1xcBCRVD6mxlO5/s640/aaa95.JPG" width="640" /></div>
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...and <b>pouting brides</b> on conceited wedding photo-shoots. Real Life had met and embraced <b>Hagia Nicola</b> in all its banality, our expeditionary fantasies notwithstanding.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMdIVeJ-Q5gZcDmxng9uEcvweyVe_lniUrs846wY5IsUkof7WxVqeNWNcoaNFEaC6nHLEfn27iCy9Jseq8XjiTkmFS9L7OKgJqxyinynDobfdw3b3WbimnADfktY532mRLH0XZZ4rWwDc/s1600/aaa96.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMdIVeJ-Q5gZcDmxng9uEcvweyVe_lniUrs846wY5IsUkof7WxVqeNWNcoaNFEaC6nHLEfn27iCy9Jseq8XjiTkmFS9L7OKgJqxyinynDobfdw3b3WbimnADfktY532mRLH0XZZ4rWwDc/s640/aaa96.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We also met this gentleman, <b>Mr. Hamdi Kaya</b>, a semi-homeless eccentric who lived here for the past 31 years, protecting the monastery from intruders. He supported himself by selling water and beverages, and playing his drum for visitors.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZg_7Py8K7j-3630UuMar7CEBjhxVbJLsiIr02Cjo8I6lknwiCjNySI2b2z9OOxIGGjeVBM6kTYHaPLyv-7oS9XnZk91Skr_7NjWG9LyDp4_UoPGTwZR6DOvleuBhCIn5KPZBQ58Rhz1MM/s1600/aaa97.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZg_7Py8K7j-3630UuMar7CEBjhxVbJLsiIr02Cjo8I6lknwiCjNySI2b2z9OOxIGGjeVBM6kTYHaPLyv-7oS9XnZk91Skr_7NjWG9LyDp4_UoPGTwZR6DOvleuBhCIn5KPZBQ58Rhz1MM/s640/aaa97.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Mr. Hamdi had framed and hung the transcript of a news story about himself on the monastery entrance. In it, he described his watchful years maintaining and guarding the ancient site from <b>treasure hunters</b> and <b>grave robbers</b> of the sort we'd discussed with Arsen earlier on in our journey.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf9RVCKL1L-xSsi3IevG1tvBPQNOBbbgqun1yxnXyhRiUU7PTp9hM30naQ-AIJtuUq44Q_Uy20o9fk7nGjEzeIyH28NA6mUFJRQaSxUa64EuIxsvUWZheVaPZHd43Gh-kUPpCBI7sbL7qy/s1600/aaa98.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf9RVCKL1L-xSsi3IevG1tvBPQNOBbbgqun1yxnXyhRiUU7PTp9hM30naQ-AIJtuUq44Q_Uy20o9fk7nGjEzeIyH28NA6mUFJRQaSxUa64EuIxsvUWZheVaPZHd43Gh-kUPpCBI7sbL7qy/s640/aaa98.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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There was also an old photograph of the monastery, taken over a hundred years ago when Ottoman Greeks still lived around Hagia Nicola. Amazingly, the monastery was over 1400 years old - dating from the <b>mid-6th century.</b> Think about it - that's <b>over a thousand years ago</b> and nearly a century before the emergence of Islam. <b>Hagia Nicola was one of the oldest surviving monasteries anywhere</b>. In any other country it would've been a World Heritage site, a crown jewel of tourism and culture. Here, it was just another backwater attraction.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFplLXcTPpji2u_t15DyZn-49MVRbfvd5ON5ZLHk3L7Cf642vJ6xhywQ7s6NnI14zbOp8-w07kmYq9SjdCbTFj0xHbWcv8JXOvNAKhmOknt6E06YvOBeCcICrkS800r1E60sIfuxkdYsN7/s1600/aaa99.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFplLXcTPpji2u_t15DyZn-49MVRbfvd5ON5ZLHk3L7Cf642vJ6xhywQ7s6NnI14zbOp8-w07kmYq9SjdCbTFj0xHbWcv8JXOvNAKhmOknt6E06YvOBeCcICrkS800r1E60sIfuxkdYsN7/s640/aaa99.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The facade and the little courtyard in front of the monastery were demolished in the past century. Now only the interior remained, hewn into the cliffside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0U9kmY8wnSm7MxVv7SOz27_uEojIcjz3kenLL79vW5UmFce-E4Kih_PwOvcS6NY9QUksTGbXAKUYQcM2zf7hjH9H-mNycPyijaYp-02_BBBcgd-3uX6B7G-VNZG8s4KtuKx69ygRVad2/s1600/aaa100.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0U9kmY8wnSm7MxVv7SOz27_uEojIcjz3kenLL79vW5UmFce-E4Kih_PwOvcS6NY9QUksTGbXAKUYQcM2zf7hjH9H-mNycPyijaYp-02_BBBcgd-3uX6B7G-VNZG8s4KtuKx69ygRVad2/s640/aaa100.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The interior was a completely different realm. Imagine how nice a tiny auditorium like this would be at a university in the present day! <b>A cosy and unpretentious architectural style</b> permeated the monastery. Its <b>humanely-scaled, deliberately imperfect features</b> stood in stark contrast to the soaring greatness and meticulously-planned, dazzling details we'd come to associate with places of worship in later centuries.</div>
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The sixth century was a period of great change that saw the final split of the Roman world; the shift from Late Antiquity to the Early Medieval period; <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plague_of_Justinian" target="_blank">plagues</a>; religious schisms; ruthless, pragmatic tyrants and wars of succession. I got the feeling that Hagia Nicola was built by (and for) <b>people who wanted to shelter their own sanity in an age of cataclysm and collapse</b> - a last refuge of humanity in an inhuman age... But then again, perhaps I was only projecting.</div>
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You can see the photos we took of the monastery's architectural details below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKUuLZwmN9GxKhB9VczPT_upkiOrQLa9lLv4socePhcQGZg-EITt7kSwgHvMNhw9z5Gzml0YQjQmzY_3GO3Wcr3TustTPqdBjycSBwRZ-bg47xs1g0gXhS2WblcbAvIibSU6HuuNuTFT4/s1600/aaa102.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKUuLZwmN9GxKhB9VczPT_upkiOrQLa9lLv4socePhcQGZg-EITt7kSwgHvMNhw9z5Gzml0YQjQmzY_3GO3Wcr3TustTPqdBjycSBwRZ-bg47xs1g0gXhS2WblcbAvIibSU6HuuNuTFT4/s640/aaa102.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1BV1z3qOLoFLDhLFF_vAy7gJJG-7VXL5SOLxQ3EfzjCD7xx_HtulFHp8hryqLutZwCg4UYxK3tiIJ6NnJzjP1nfMGvEwcjmqGLMIEMmW03Oi9W7lcKN_bDx8jzEaR9OYYn5h9YMgBflI/s1600/aaa115.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1BV1z3qOLoFLDhLFF_vAy7gJJG-7VXL5SOLxQ3EfzjCD7xx_HtulFHp8hryqLutZwCg4UYxK3tiIJ6NnJzjP1nfMGvEwcjmqGLMIEMmW03Oi9W7lcKN_bDx8jzEaR9OYYn5h9YMgBflI/s640/aaa115.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMrVHoUoq3tlYRCAMgs7yffNUfazZ03OYjQNFsZ9ULK48XdbRAqaBh2m5v6FKJUjtLfTTbb-lN3L62g6KXCgJnpSENL6j8MnghvFgpvETfAgCMcJNlzKM3S7x7EFCyN4tzIMulLTGQbrj/s1600/aaa113.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMrVHoUoq3tlYRCAMgs7yffNUfazZ03OYjQNFsZ9ULK48XdbRAqaBh2m5v6FKJUjtLfTTbb-lN3L62g6KXCgJnpSENL6j8MnghvFgpvETfAgCMcJNlzKM3S7x7EFCyN4tzIMulLTGQbrj/s640/aaa113.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQK-qeON-3TsiuuCTWFh49_32hMvyd5ekRCCBs1bN5mL-fDsiF73eQzQz2zH9Gw-mkS3F00_b2Qanfau-Ywibsj0AMp27P2tFzA2GAqo9T60ZnRuv4hDBLmaG1I5bq_VGxMTgpo8Q9xK4/s1600/aaa112.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQK-qeON-3TsiuuCTWFh49_32hMvyd5ekRCCBs1bN5mL-fDsiF73eQzQz2zH9Gw-mkS3F00_b2Qanfau-Ywibsj0AMp27P2tFzA2GAqo9T60ZnRuv4hDBLmaG1I5bq_VGxMTgpo8Q9xK4/s640/aaa112.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOOYyM62JofBKHMyLC3-iP-8f2XMsPzQaNHEMADJQdBcP00xeLFQXeDt-FUW564cRSCkBH8u4JDf9JzrITbpAZn2qXz7kY1Oweu-gWMsoiY9ctHIPU8WZuX9QulDMSsVMqUoHET1pVbVs/s1600/aaa111.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOOYyM62JofBKHMyLC3-iP-8f2XMsPzQaNHEMADJQdBcP00xeLFQXeDt-FUW564cRSCkBH8u4JDf9JzrITbpAZn2qXz7kY1Oweu-gWMsoiY9ctHIPU8WZuX9QulDMSsVMqUoHET1pVbVs/s640/aaa111.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKVN-3lqpCHzwzJ4WAL3zTBD3gr_2hhA9bls9rkBO4GvzGBU9zk5Ish3w4ksHYkcoza9NliF3EJnCgLBTsb5ct0J07s-R7bOpQhGTIdNL_GfBS3N9TKf_WIxaETndcHQusoeI5J_fqajT/s1600/aaa110.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKVN-3lqpCHzwzJ4WAL3zTBD3gr_2hhA9bls9rkBO4GvzGBU9zk5Ish3w4ksHYkcoza9NliF3EJnCgLBTsb5ct0J07s-R7bOpQhGTIdNL_GfBS3N9TKf_WIxaETndcHQusoeI5J_fqajT/s640/aaa110.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-IwaGVY_IEFV-beHJNRU988OnW5knf3CZygWTwxcwnQSc4q-yXbYkDcHWwAD35vYaR-xvfoJPQDfVPzDlYdTUEuKScSCEVcb2u1ZmQZ3yRSHqLqvAaeMKlB4KYLCFJMljgeGmjPv_lBg/s1600/aaa108.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-IwaGVY_IEFV-beHJNRU988OnW5knf3CZygWTwxcwnQSc4q-yXbYkDcHWwAD35vYaR-xvfoJPQDfVPzDlYdTUEuKScSCEVcb2u1ZmQZ3yRSHqLqvAaeMKlB4KYLCFJMljgeGmjPv_lBg/s640/aaa108.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6nmJissALeSC9QnwBt3aDhMPcdiB5rT32Y4KDonq7kCw0uyiltj_VtHlDgUlzAcaM_jcwKvNi_Yi74HSaRQmxVh8rNGOA8XdKkBaAPpvXrwRJwFQp5y_SOyn39zwidJZBoIc8Qgs-BGV/s1600/aaa107.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6nmJissALeSC9QnwBt3aDhMPcdiB5rT32Y4KDonq7kCw0uyiltj_VtHlDgUlzAcaM_jcwKvNi_Yi74HSaRQmxVh8rNGOA8XdKkBaAPpvXrwRJwFQp5y_SOyn39zwidJZBoIc8Qgs-BGV/s640/aaa107.jpg" width="568" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEx_m23D-MRab7CXnIvFIIYp4657Z5xSb3SJ9gagecSZIdQA40NiVSJ51hOXopJj6PYgXMmNNst1eOHV6pffk25RtU8IVmbWyL_deKPYaDp8n5tzKbB7ZcvyPMHMxG7wJW3IZOKp5gEaF/s1600/aaa106.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEx_m23D-MRab7CXnIvFIIYp4657Z5xSb3SJ9gagecSZIdQA40NiVSJ51hOXopJj6PYgXMmNNst1eOHV6pffk25RtU8IVmbWyL_deKPYaDp8n5tzKbB7ZcvyPMHMxG7wJW3IZOKp5gEaF/s640/aaa106.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdN9bN11TlGZO2O45N6mKlOIZXc3xIMiBSGwdNKM6WhGWOm6i0eZHYCM8qgKQdkCLqgJn8grJeW_vO_JOh9hFD9dgRaaUi6PU2JPIedV6PBeOnEzZ-9dGsYcHBgjKRtwlADwC2xs16D0vx/s1600/aaa105.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdN9bN11TlGZO2O45N6mKlOIZXc3xIMiBSGwdNKM6WhGWOm6i0eZHYCM8qgKQdkCLqgJn8grJeW_vO_JOh9hFD9dgRaaUi6PU2JPIedV6PBeOnEzZ-9dGsYcHBgjKRtwlADwC2xs16D0vx/s640/aaa105.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtPByyOHAOsDS-molvTNUIYlq3hhu4IWfii8q0reLN0gEfwrKIk_RjWfrQGRWnC51HKJHDSbYFlp70JWUdj7VcnP20ycuUWbHyUBnJD4TKyeFE6g-e6alLZU6D5Luqm3QfueDvWv3cJMk4/s1600/aaa104.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtPByyOHAOsDS-molvTNUIYlq3hhu4IWfii8q0reLN0gEfwrKIk_RjWfrQGRWnC51HKJHDSbYFlp70JWUdj7VcnP20ycuUWbHyUBnJD4TKyeFE6g-e6alLZU6D5Luqm3QfueDvWv3cJMk4/s640/aaa104.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnKOJT5_aVoAwBBA_FSnEr70qjYHoO1duZo5iBhjGGyURWpkA-KO3W4KWvZNJg3-mHwJHMa2a7ugeoQN4a2TdQWp-7cQzvCQWMJKfBGk5i2lAkQ-0_vSnssNMrlXxMIJYcrFQpv1qUTk36/s1600/aaa103.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnKOJT5_aVoAwBBA_FSnEr70qjYHoO1duZo5iBhjGGyURWpkA-KO3W4KWvZNJg3-mHwJHMa2a7ugeoQN4a2TdQWp-7cQzvCQWMJKfBGk5i2lAkQ-0_vSnssNMrlXxMIJYcrFQpv1qUTk36/s640/aaa103.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCCSEoYeAJG_0byzNO0V1idGJ22XgQp-Pz78PvidIAD3ophipHUEau-5Ewp0FUZrdfmzc7QDg1gWfpXPeJcSyOFftHkPawH5fyrlLprojbPuadbtzzlN4ihJjSDttnKedTLUOFhoGYrXe/s1600/aaa114.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCCSEoYeAJG_0byzNO0V1idGJ22XgQp-Pz78PvidIAD3ophipHUEau-5Ewp0FUZrdfmzc7QDg1gWfpXPeJcSyOFftHkPawH5fyrlLprojbPuadbtzzlN4ihJjSDttnKedTLUOFhoGYrXe/s640/aaa114.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A lot of names and dates were carved onto the walls, some by Ottoman Greeks in the 19th century, others by Turks in more recent decades.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzqiLbsjOt3Zor6bqLfthKfUQ-8xEIM4eaiQMqNpHDezoTghjk7EJ4kvmJ_YNqOputMMeIA8CK2t6HhAADNUQi_BPUJLerUf5dYXlwd_GSyv2QUkBtanAvCsLtmjnFuD_2j-nqjAmUY7J/s1600/aaa101.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzqiLbsjOt3Zor6bqLfthKfUQ-8xEIM4eaiQMqNpHDezoTghjk7EJ4kvmJ_YNqOputMMeIA8CK2t6HhAADNUQi_BPUJLerUf5dYXlwd_GSyv2QUkBtanAvCsLtmjnFuD_2j-nqjAmUY7J/s640/aaa101.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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On the way out I noticed <b>Hamdi Kaya's drum</b>, decorated with strips of electrical tape to resemble some of the patterns on the monastery walls. I figured that the place must have imparted some of its spirit on him if Mr. Kaya lived here for more than thirty years.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg91S4IaehhcwU4-mhdw0YlpFwg5XddoQBSi_2jGnLSd81oV9DtrveP2Xo213aCnDEFVGj-aZTc-iFOnJSQ4G29jdQhKG8ibsTLP3AltA5lS6smw6dUJpD0gEpmxKjIfbrBotIpWSt-Of01/s1600/aaa116.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg91S4IaehhcwU4-mhdw0YlpFwg5XddoQBSi_2jGnLSd81oV9DtrveP2Xo213aCnDEFVGj-aZTc-iFOnJSQ4G29jdQhKG8ibsTLP3AltA5lS6smw6dUJpD0gEpmxKjIfbrBotIpWSt-Of01/s640/aaa116.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We also saw Mr. Kaya's couch/bed tucked beneath a rocky overhang just outside the monastery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3wcv_fDTzx7HATEvusHpQdBRrAr0ruw3iKXdOu-ppt9vcaMR66XW61VfFDEDVlIdX5pqNlSc3i3d95JyQycher3blxZEWAkjoFEtywgQNyRxcVHygZCEDYd1ab7jFZJV_1W8viSELdyW/s1600/aaa117.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3wcv_fDTzx7HATEvusHpQdBRrAr0ruw3iKXdOu-ppt9vcaMR66XW61VfFDEDVlIdX5pqNlSc3i3d95JyQycher3blxZEWAkjoFEtywgQNyRxcVHygZCEDYd1ab7jFZJV_1W8viSELdyW/s640/aaa117.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Extremely impressed by this hidden gem of a place, we wandered out to the surrounding countryside to see if there were more ruins around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU-WYL1WnxQZkPCjTg7n5ob8VojY1xy5kyT4VDaIYBvtz6ACWtKYe4RzKSOiMG-cYokuzvtwd97X58YodZmKnAXETn3Mduj0Hn9rreZZfj9MGDNesk1E10x1l8RFbpc9VGphFWeT-iZ1h/s1600/aaa118.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU-WYL1WnxQZkPCjTg7n5ob8VojY1xy5kyT4VDaIYBvtz6ACWtKYe4RzKSOiMG-cYokuzvtwd97X58YodZmKnAXETn3Mduj0Hn9rreZZfj9MGDNesk1E10x1l8RFbpc9VGphFWeT-iZ1h/s640/aaa118.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We didn't see any ruins, but we ran into some very picturesque tree farms.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKti5WXiEJaTkU4GeQ35i5hUKt5hPqyxW_girKQMCa6-s23cVFbiDodKNWbt4nXXzO5ZURT532REzd8B8I8sWzXJ5AVpBpcfhe6auf_2NPgBN84JKDMy4bkQUT2nGQofcyvL9qC9-tLlM/s1600/aaa120.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKti5WXiEJaTkU4GeQ35i5hUKt5hPqyxW_girKQMCa6-s23cVFbiDodKNWbt4nXXzO5ZURT532REzd8B8I8sWzXJ5AVpBpcfhe6auf_2NPgBN84JKDMy4bkQUT2nGQofcyvL9qC9-tLlM/s640/aaa120.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the path back - literally in it - we saw a <b>strange stone</b> that may, just barely, have been part of an old statue. We tried to dig it out with sticks, bits of stone and pieces of metal from a nearby garbage bin - to no avail. The stone remains unextricated, waiting for our return. I'll try to bring a hand shovel on our next adventure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gTR_2HdmQGUgFvHwB22Xrk5yvbaOM0gun-AR4Iu93s1-UFIJ6TzcEij8LHO-f1Ztqw1K0ojl47PVHsl2kHPUKxFuM6r58r_2hRD891VQKhA3qMaQCF6z0ojkqqJnhMn8Pno2rL0NBjON/s1600/aaa121.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gTR_2HdmQGUgFvHwB22Xrk5yvbaOM0gun-AR4Iu93s1-UFIJ6TzcEij8LHO-f1Ztqw1K0ojl47PVHsl2kHPUKxFuM6r58r_2hRD891VQKhA3qMaQCF6z0ojkqqJnhMn8Pno2rL0NBjON/s640/aaa121.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Rain started falling a little while later. We trotted back to our car after taking one last look at the Hagia Nicola. This <b>Renault Broadway </b>car wasn't our ride, but I still took its picture - these vehicles as much a part of the Turkish landscape as the mountains and the trees. <i>(Thanks to blogger </i>desolarpeder <i>for the correct vehicle ID)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghRxIxcgdxelODuQiJ2bkIebhRT7r8uINburzdjUdfBd7TjGD-Fd-8PuMyn5sfxhS3RVO0H13bbKUzNeQd3ncdcpj9kinEfut_3uYvF8Ic9Nfiwxl91q675RXN3D5nAheZ7ABwHr3T5zbO/s1600/aaa122.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghRxIxcgdxelODuQiJ2bkIebhRT7r8uINburzdjUdfBd7TjGD-Fd-8PuMyn5sfxhS3RVO0H13bbKUzNeQd3ncdcpj9kinEfut_3uYvF8Ic9Nfiwxl91q675RXN3D5nAheZ7ABwHr3T5zbO/s640/aaa122.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We drove a short distance, back to <b>Kıyıköy</b>, for our well-earned dinner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5yl6LARR0DD3TN7VXuURY2X_rRPmJ1lFcp29EMnYQq_ZcyQtlCt_vqV-BTbcZbOiiDJ8CG_4L2sf6p1xKYXLViF3pvHQnLnQGLbiRLNerRgQJWY4UsEpzssk2ozBDbnetwCL575zyLbC3/s1600/aaa123.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5yl6LARR0DD3TN7VXuURY2X_rRPmJ1lFcp29EMnYQq_ZcyQtlCt_vqV-BTbcZbOiiDJ8CG_4L2sf6p1xKYXLViF3pvHQnLnQGLbiRLNerRgQJWY4UsEpzssk2ozBDbnetwCL575zyLbC3/s640/aaa123.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Meanwhile the rain intensified into a torrent, turning sloping roads into small rivers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAC55oBCI2cDBo9AwhQFCoMQvX3nsxqge5EieVgza750zKgRn6uVCgc1cYrFJV0oP_W1cE7-dVqRUqKI2uxKEpqbclKuwEtSc7HT9_9rH16QYx630nnvws-dOt5qfA2HncRJZhjXPTob_/s1600/aaa124.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAC55oBCI2cDBo9AwhQFCoMQvX3nsxqge5EieVgza750zKgRn6uVCgc1cYrFJV0oP_W1cE7-dVqRUqKI2uxKEpqbclKuwEtSc7HT9_9rH16QYx630nnvws-dOt5qfA2HncRJZhjXPTob_/s640/aaa124.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Thunder and lightning, as well as strong winds, increased the meteorological crescendo. The landscape morphed into a blurry, impressionist painting. We drove along the fishing village, looking for a place to eat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HaDyjjGV76qpNY9MrGLa38fa1jmk2hkUye-gLJ8jNxluORjLT3LMTU8vbRgv01HR5yKrbh-Zgfkzx_qPBeMixWLMGfdBt0Hj3Y9gKUETGzAE2qfxHfw4KN2m8DqHWnAbOktE5scc9F6M/s1600/aaa125.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HaDyjjGV76qpNY9MrGLa38fa1jmk2hkUye-gLJ8jNxluORjLT3LMTU8vbRgv01HR5yKrbh-Zgfkzx_qPBeMixWLMGfdBt0Hj3Y9gKUETGzAE2qfxHfw4KN2m8DqHWnAbOktE5scc9F6M/s640/aaa125.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We were close to giving up when we saw, murky in the falling sheets of rain, the surreal, LED-lit blue glow of the <b>Kuzey </b>(North)<b> Fish Nestaurant</b>; an unassuming establishment serving seafood straight from the fishing boats' nets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZq6hyphenhyphen6jTNUSZNeoXvFbEMj745JMRzcqzlFkLc_eIn0rYRNuCBXt1BSAGtwk9lR7GrLRWrXPZec4Ugxua1TqD9qDf1cHmwBrgtpp6aON2IZTAu2gVr9N9SisFyOb_GJKLCTAiALcFn7bM/s1600/aaa126.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZq6hyphenhyphen6jTNUSZNeoXvFbEMj745JMRzcqzlFkLc_eIn0rYRNuCBXt1BSAGtwk9lR7GrLRWrXPZec4Ugxua1TqD9qDf1cHmwBrgtpp6aON2IZTAu2gVr9N9SisFyOb_GJKLCTAiALcFn7bM/s640/aaa126.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It was garish, but warm and cozy inside. We knew we'd hit the jackpot. We sat down and ordered a delicious dinner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSb01_c73rp9r5g3XyB56rKDJmdjpVV5eh5HYKO12mQlynV4BApX2gk3u6IB-XM-CosiTYUZjZwsAmpl77c9en7DY9yWbX1dtqBcEodN8RGNADLjRKfssRotGdFfnGEEEQ9gIRYPFP0qq2/s1600/aaa127.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSb01_c73rp9r5g3XyB56rKDJmdjpVV5eh5HYKO12mQlynV4BApX2gk3u6IB-XM-CosiTYUZjZwsAmpl77c9en7DY9yWbX1dtqBcEodN8RGNADLjRKfssRotGdFfnGEEEQ9gIRYPFP0qq2/s640/aaa127.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The sun went down and the storm worsened outside, making for some truly epic vistas.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5b_T7MyHIoNmLV8VhBlb756QbZQKDCnb420F2ESPXnM-ZBNKkAkiVq6WubKp_YqkrLX5_NFlYHmOgwLwaKwYHc6cINJdgRw7GnWKZyuKKNgnu5mAgx4CjICqOuORGacbVXLBPt6Iy3w4/s1600/aaa128.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5b_T7MyHIoNmLV8VhBlb756QbZQKDCnb420F2ESPXnM-ZBNKkAkiVq6WubKp_YqkrLX5_NFlYHmOgwLwaKwYHc6cINJdgRw7GnWKZyuKKNgnu5mAgx4CjICqOuORGacbVXLBPt6Iy3w4/s640/aaa128.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It was a really satisfying conclusion to a great adventure. In less than 12 hours, Arsen and I had seen strange cemeteries, bizarre vehicles, quaint facets of small-town life, outsider art, botanical profusion, epic vistas and an arcane monastery. <b>I felt that I'd found a truly like-minded friend in travel and adventures.</b> Arsen was going overseas to start his Masters' studies soon, but we agreed to embark on similar road trips whenever the opportunity presented itself.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu9PYAEa43iOzp8XDi8kfDffhqYJORSp3gos9-cmVYROEl_mP_O2Gbb8XHIatR4AMjpJyHVmEFzPO8BIbquDlbu0JsRI59scuuFhhp1Z4_VwhNoBzCACUiYe-GH0Ckx7sIhplVBDHLGQN6/s1600/aaa130.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu9PYAEa43iOzp8XDi8kfDffhqYJORSp3gos9-cmVYROEl_mP_O2Gbb8XHIatR4AMjpJyHVmEFzPO8BIbquDlbu0JsRI59scuuFhhp1Z4_VwhNoBzCACUiYe-GH0Ckx7sIhplVBDHLGQN6/s640/aaa130.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Dinner was salad, calamari rings, fried mussels, french fries and fish. Remember the big slabs of oily meat I'd had for lunch. I'm not writing these to flaunt what I ate, read on and you will see the fateful consequence of binge-eating on a Turkish road trip.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXVEX6GtRXEqdbMfKZol5ktpDomqMFiMg9So8ReUkvr6fzb52us9AskuAdsexHbeKMHcMwZMrEgzTjuYLHLIqEaeMqAqnpJsgHSy56OuYiGi3O8PUpxhCHhgza-tAJCoddavvlz7LwxIh/s1600/aaa134.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXVEX6GtRXEqdbMfKZol5ktpDomqMFiMg9So8ReUkvr6fzb52us9AskuAdsexHbeKMHcMwZMrEgzTjuYLHLIqEaeMqAqnpJsgHSy56OuYiGi3O8PUpxhCHhgza-tAJCoddavvlz7LwxIh/s640/aaa134.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We finished dinner and started our journey back to Istanbul. As we passed through Kıyıköy one last time, we noticed that the town had some remarkable old houses.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbk9YnEGXPhocdJ9J8-W6C_mLaUniJmzXmZhyBUeuCDrDatlO2HCiR2VUwSLKLVshcsxQXTeFYkvzwzMY3FsxkqUWZpfxezp4Z0dz5RllktS8v-z0cZ2Bk1ZAxCcnWQ7O3FLu3_HVB51H/s1600/aaa132.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbk9YnEGXPhocdJ9J8-W6C_mLaUniJmzXmZhyBUeuCDrDatlO2HCiR2VUwSLKLVshcsxQXTeFYkvzwzMY3FsxkqUWZpfxezp4Z0dz5RllktS8v-z0cZ2Bk1ZAxCcnWQ7O3FLu3_HVB51H/s640/aaa132.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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An <b>epic lightning storm</b> began to rage, thunder and lightning kept us company on our drive back to the city. We stopped occasionally to film and photograph the weather.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIiPYH5TgcODnUBPuiTsogo76rXur-EHu7HaZHy0ftpWeDXg6HB90-lYB7GwrqP5jl_1xzEnsXEyvdYQPF0eomJdYc8g4A4mcgre4NE0Iaswlukij5_ZoXZppSp71D-GRpbE2v4hmiGyK9/s1600/aaa133.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIiPYH5TgcODnUBPuiTsogo76rXur-EHu7HaZHy0ftpWeDXg6HB90-lYB7GwrqP5jl_1xzEnsXEyvdYQPF0eomJdYc8g4A4mcgre4NE0Iaswlukij5_ZoXZppSp71D-GRpbE2v4hmiGyK9/s640/aaa133.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Freeze-frames from the videos I shot revealed Wagnerian vistas over the Black Sea, illuminated by serpentine bolts of lightning.</div>
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The drive back took us until 1:00 AM. At one point, overcome with fatigue, we rested in a roadside truck stop. There I made the mistake of ordering coffee with a moist, <b>squishy dessert of questionable age and integrity.</b></div>
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That was the straw that broke the camel's back. All the mussels, meat, calamari and oil, mixed with the stale cake, erupted like a volcano. I couldn't sleep properly after coming home, and I retched convulsively for several hours until dawn.</div>
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Yet it was all worth it at the end. After all, what was adventure without a little discomfort?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTohp1PgXzB8_GPJpf7XlyZGktm4rYxpI8PNGYeEbBDsxlKiY1CLMvYcuQUfSVXWZbXCoFvbqW8g85cBb5hheiCC51kmHDR45DEDdUaDlURyCrdDiLmgoxf1s9kqWkr99LFXOKGhi79zRb/s1600/aaa137.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTohp1PgXzB8_GPJpf7XlyZGktm4rYxpI8PNGYeEbBDsxlKiY1CLMvYcuQUfSVXWZbXCoFvbqW8g85cBb5hheiCC51kmHDR45DEDdUaDlURyCrdDiLmgoxf1s9kqWkr99LFXOKGhi79zRb/s640/aaa137.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-8844303316986817152017-10-24T09:39:00.000-07:002018-02-15T04:41:54.835-08:00Sculptures and Secrets in Tel Aviv's "Anonymous Alley" and "Unknown Alley" (Simta Plonit & Simta Almonit)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: small;">I</span><span style="font-size: small;">n January 2017, I was walking across Tel Aviv when I came across this arcane dead-end street, its entrance flanked by twin obelisks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /> I couldn't read Hebrew, but I later learnt that the parallel dead-end streets were called <b>Anonymous Alley</b> <b>(<a href="https://goo.gl/maps/ctTxWSzY7432" target="_blank">Simta Plonit</a>) </b>and <b>Unknown Alley (<a href="https://www.google.com.tr/maps/place/%D7%A1%D7%9E%D7%98%D7%94+%D7%90%D7%9C%D7%9E%D7%95%D7%A0%D7%99%D7%AA,+Tel+Aviv-Yafo,+Israel%E2%80%AD/@32.071157,34.770802,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x151d4c81cb36633d:0x76d5797fc4ad4bbc!8m2!3d32.071157!4d34.7729907?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiJiKWukY7XAhVMDJoKHcuhAX0Q8gEIJjAA" target="_blank">Simta Almonit</a>). </b></span>I walked in and came across this concrete lion, guarding a splendorous set of art-nouveau apartments. A plaque announced it to be sculpted by <b>"Y D Gordon and Haim Katz, 1920s."</b><br />
<br />An article in <a href="http://www.thetowner.com/tel-aviv-streets/" target="_blank"><b>The Towner</b></a>, an online magazine on urban living and history, shed more light on this mysterious place. According to their sources; the street, the sculptures and the homes were the property of Judeo-American building contractor <b>Meir Getzel Shapira</b>, who <i>"built a three-storey, eclectic-style home in Tel Aviv for his wife, Sonya, and their three children: Naomi, Aybey and Nathan."<br /></i>As it turned out, the lion statue and the twin obelisks were all built by Shapira to comfort his wife. "<i>Sonya… often complained about the Middle East’s torrid weather, hated that she couldn’t go anywhere without getting sand in her shoes, feared plundering marauders, and was basically miserable all the time. Meir, for his part, tried to cheer her up by throwing money at the problem..."</i><br />
<i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><br />"One day Sonya came home to find a roaring lion standing in front of her house. It was a statue Meir had commissioned from American sculptor Y. D. Gordon to make Sonya feel safer at home. The beast had lights in its eyes that glowed red at night. That would take care of the plundering marauders. But he didn’t stop there: he also paved the two roads that lead up to the house, so that Sonya wouldn’t have to worry about sand touching her snow-white skin. He then erected two concrete obelisks at the head of the street and hinged a wrought iron gate between them. Finally, he plopped a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yemenite_Jews" target="_blank">Yemenite</a> guard in front of the gate and armed him with a stick!"</span></i></i></div>
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What a story! I really would have liked to see the concrete lion with the lights in its eyes.<br />
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<a href="https://www.haaretz.com/israel-news/when-walls-tell-all-1.400518" target="_blank">An article on HaAretz</a> also revealed interesting details about the life of <b>Y. D. Gordon</b>. A sculptor specialising in animals and portraits in Greek revival style, he once built <i>"a statue of a rabbi and his students surrounded by animals"</i> at the entrance of <b>Ginosar Pension</b>, a celebrated hotel of the times. But then, <i>"...the rabbis of the first Jewish city protested what they described as a Greek-inspired statue, and imposed a boycott on the hotel. The statue was removed. The frustrated sculptor shattered his creation and left Israel in anger."</i>I also found <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/timelessriver/15961492363" target="_blank">a datum on Haim Katz on Fickr</a>, which told that this particular statue <i>"...was sculpted by Haim Katz who worked as a builder in Tel Aviv. He was born in Bialystok, Poland and emigrated from Palestine to East London, South Africa in the 1930s."</i></div>
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The pictures below show more details from the apartments and the streets. It's beautiful how research can reveal unexpected life stories in every detail of urban life.</div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/" target="_blank"> www.cmkosemen.com</a></span></b></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_6-0NMqQnK2Vy55wZf4x1vY1CCWr5-20PbZBO8e2Fwi2lhQa1uYSWilrL-NJX2cNry6jj1R2E_GPt1ARto1Zca8bIpXTL3Onh-e_lDRi0kB6vrAZ35WfcOpQc6w-r12yXv9Sd-Jfrqc/s1600/IMG_0980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_6-0NMqQnK2Vy55wZf4x1vY1CCWr5-20PbZBO8e2Fwi2lhQa1uYSWilrL-NJX2cNry6jj1R2E_GPt1ARto1Zca8bIpXTL3Onh-e_lDRi0kB6vrAZ35WfcOpQc6w-r12yXv9Sd-Jfrqc/s640/IMG_0980.JPG" width="640" /></a>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-31491565993871424562017-08-04T08:32:00.003-07:002018-06-11T05:50:35.071-07:00Found Art: Framing Shed Snake Skins<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxh_y52aH3q4c7HdTtSfc1yt1HiA15bQhNAOdAD4sZSQAFvYLdY_1fRzhL94169xCx9bLF1g_nxPhgl7EAyf9AvyZdCakmIpNkxi-8ZiC5xGlznXyxlmB9TGINLvJhbSGTAyRHS9zKc-g/s1600/s01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxh_y52aH3q4c7HdTtSfc1yt1HiA15bQhNAOdAD4sZSQAFvYLdY_1fRzhL94169xCx9bLF1g_nxPhgl7EAyf9AvyZdCakmIpNkxi-8ZiC5xGlznXyxlmB9TGINLvJhbSGTAyRHS9zKc-g/s640/s01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n June 2017 I found a complete snake shedding in the garden of my parents' summer home. </div>
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If you don't know what a snake shedding is; snakes <a href="http://www.reptileknowledge.com/articles/article8.php" target="_blank">regularly discard their skins</a> to accommodate their growing bodies. This process, known as <b>ecdysis </b>in biology, has been fascinating people since ancient times, and is responsible for legends associating snakes with immortality.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtI6kZ5JcYFH9Mr9jYcGb-tfioRfJ-DdjpGdawdUEBJdzwrH2_Lg5t8peiSNWtQ9nELexjrjZBFK7yu-Om2AiN_MW9ip8FyTvVt3Iqlad3AUWjZp-7hiY4zmF5nXFelGe1uw2xEUzGuRo/s1600/s02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtI6kZ5JcYFH9Mr9jYcGb-tfioRfJ-DdjpGdawdUEBJdzwrH2_Lg5t8peiSNWtQ9nELexjrjZBFK7yu-Om2AiN_MW9ip8FyTvVt3Iqlad3AUWjZp-7hiY4zmF5nXFelGe1uw2xEUzGuRo/s640/s02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'd encountered shed snake skins before, but always in bits and pieces. Finding a complete skin prompted me to mount and preserve it. But how? I took a piece of heavy-grain paper and affixed the skin on it with little loops of masking tape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLhn4cbGdcp0uAXmg3azJQ0aJgWjjV2P3DdI2Vf7oqkd2G9k0fjyhHppIN6TzoBHLSwvwit4NzBodM0GzSvwqlylrSq8KXgFNosQhxqrjiFAtRT1Fr5h1jyLWgArnhlMH8X3DhWs-tY8/s1600/s03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLhn4cbGdcp0uAXmg3azJQ0aJgWjjV2P3DdI2Vf7oqkd2G9k0fjyhHppIN6TzoBHLSwvwit4NzBodM0GzSvwqlylrSq8KXgFNosQhxqrjiFAtRT1Fr5h1jyLWgArnhlMH8X3DhWs-tY8/s640/s03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then took the it to the local framers', who, after an initial reaction of shock and extreme interest, did a great work at preparing it for display. The mounted skin looked like a <a href="http://www.panteek.com/ScheutzerSnakes/images/scs737-121.jpg" target="_blank">vintage herpetological engraving</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8tmFDXe-_06uwLIBEQ8SYzVLweUXQmhXjF2yqs0fJKGvz_eNd1hne_8dgg5pM0qSxCX0NiV32JiXgoNQGcpJE-8MgkGyrOh_XwdhVDeONSuHFbbiEvJV1X5H3S4w4Ka03G84IYumsBJE/s1600/s04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8tmFDXe-_06uwLIBEQ8SYzVLweUXQmhXjF2yqs0fJKGvz_eNd1hne_8dgg5pM0qSxCX0NiV32JiXgoNQGcpJE-8MgkGyrOh_XwdhVDeONSuHFbbiEvJV1X5H3S4w4Ka03G84IYumsBJE/s640/s04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a close-up of the skin in its mounted glory. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKx2YwSwpnLHcQBnMoL_TAIOxBXOAPYjbNWpFNtqlQzOcc99QmVZMGu2ZNepheQn0zO1xEA2Fm_mGZOvl-I8zlO0GOg_U8X88qdadpHa2oE7hljOzWbFE50edl8TNjEm1wNsmFsJFCfY/s1600/s05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKx2YwSwpnLHcQBnMoL_TAIOxBXOAPYjbNWpFNtqlQzOcc99QmVZMGu2ZNepheQn0zO1xEA2Fm_mGZOvl-I8zlO0GOg_U8X88qdadpHa2oE7hljOzWbFE50edl8TNjEm1wNsmFsJFCfY/s640/s05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A close-up study of its head scales and consulting the extremely helpful <a href="http://www.turkherptil.org/default.asp" target="_blank">Turkherptil.com website</a> revealed the owner of the skin to be something of the <i>Dolichophis </i>genus; either the Caspian whipsnake, <i><a href="http://reptile-database.reptarium.cz/species?genus=Dolichophis&species=caspius" target="_blank"><span id="goog_442138221"></span>Dolichophis caspius</a><span id="goog_442138222"></span></i>; or the black whipsnake, <i><a href="http://reptile-database.reptarium.cz/species?genus=Dolichophis&species=jugularis" target="_blank">D. jugularis</a></i>. Both were harmless "garden snakes" that regularly occurred in our neighbourhood.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1p9Tbc-c_j1YJE-RYJPRsf191TKqZofSKAY-AMlDS8nH9YRSYDMc_y-1zprdZY3gzQNUafyf7nn-0b9CX8eTf5Cd6dZfTVta9jgVi9Kuit2rTMuDqv7hUg-QE0Fax9WElIuARbNWL6n0/s1600/s06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1p9Tbc-c_j1YJE-RYJPRsf191TKqZofSKAY-AMlDS8nH9YRSYDMc_y-1zprdZY3gzQNUafyf7nn-0b9CX8eTf5Cd6dZfTVta9jgVi9Kuit2rTMuDqv7hUg-QE0Fax9WElIuARbNWL6n0/s640/s06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The elegant snake shedding now stands in my parents' summer home as a nice memento, a true work of "found art", and ecologically friendly to boot.</div>
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A few months later, this viper (possibly <i><a href="http://reptile-database.reptarium.cz/species?genus=Montivipera&species=xanthina" target="_blank">Montivipera xanthina</a></i>) skin, which I'd collected while trekking in Bodrum and completely forgotten about, fell out of a sketchbook I'd used in the early 2000s.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFRFVLDmIUbVaFeYW88ZKYPL_SyP6-Ur82enQr0TjvFy2rU6diyEpN5oqWCZJHeJZK0WI2wmWz2py5G4JNta68FZyROLQzMdVyGJWybm4HdxQlyx4kFdw27vjquFXqkOj6C454N5wrTfFb/s1600/IMG_9145.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFRFVLDmIUbVaFeYW88ZKYPL_SyP6-Ur82enQr0TjvFy2rU6diyEpN5oqWCZJHeJZK0WI2wmWz2py5G4JNta68FZyROLQzMdVyGJWybm4HdxQlyx4kFdw27vjquFXqkOj6C454N5wrTfFb/s640/IMG_9145.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had it framed too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUuUSlMAMtpV2b0t4QY6Jrv_hzFwuqFb2Sy8T7S1Zft73U4br6ATy2_XJeOZ3hgSvEhOsVFrp8xyYxMClGhRZGLjyigLp1q-AkVXV6XQU0e7gQokP-Cbc9FkxuUmtZWHBIGN1Kh_0wg0N1/s1600/IMG_9181.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUuUSlMAMtpV2b0t4QY6Jrv_hzFwuqFb2Sy8T7S1Zft73U4br6ATy2_XJeOZ3hgSvEhOsVFrp8xyYxMClGhRZGLjyigLp1q-AkVXV6XQU0e7gQokP-Cbc9FkxuUmtZWHBIGN1Kh_0wg0N1/s640/IMG_9181.JPG" width="402" /></a></div>
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Here is the framed viper skin. While clearing my archive I also found this long, one-piece skin of an <b>amphisbaenian</b>, <i><a href="http://reptile-database.reptarium.cz/species?genus=Blanus&species=strauchi" target="_blank">Blanus strauchi</a></i>: a strange, burrowing reptile that looks like a blind snake, but actually belongs to a distinct group of lizards. I'd collected it way back, in 1998. It's amazing and a little depressing to think that that was over 20 years ago.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTH2h7ufGX4_ezpBE2mxQmnsSWwKMErgLgO4NVOTABAKAaCu_fsrI4_dRj4eB3Vuen-xvU0evWe4UUW3JWfIekTrQTQZTrzWMaUZeDujFlFPSjdOm1BhiGHmfQq_oTUETCIYWWz1X4dGG7/s1600/IMG_9238.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTH2h7ufGX4_ezpBE2mxQmnsSWwKMErgLgO4NVOTABAKAaCu_fsrI4_dRj4eB3Vuen-xvU0evWe4UUW3JWfIekTrQTQZTrzWMaUZeDujFlFPSjdOm1BhiGHmfQq_oTUETCIYWWz1X4dGG7/s640/IMG_9238.JPG" width="294" /></a></div>
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The viper and the amphisbaenian have now joined the whipsnake on the walls of our summer home as eye-catching decorations. I'm always on the lookout out for more serpentine sheddings.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-33706957991821257912017-02-20T03:34:00.000-08:002018-06-11T07:50:44.278-07:00A Tutorial for Illustrating Dinosaurs and Other Prehistoric Animals<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span id="goog_564356048"></span><span id="goog_564356049"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCyNetgvRx6pMkXJSwZlaFkpTaHsLLIkEpiZCyMaAYMfqMoM_27WpjwGZJpAFXaGooln8yK5lRD-dMJwC7OltRTy1scrUhR0pggtwGHVD-UgcgOCQhsBMg0BInw5lbNDR4rC4q2iOiAg/s1600/54+megaspider.png" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhKQGegYk2eJ4sI4jwvsJRQW4NDHGRbVO1UC0fZAL3Xmf5ywHPjtIRj3YYPTf-RGMqAIPBp4_aFcV29BDcsJb587UbbHgYlFZX3H4QLPGkxaZTcgNuo7jmX5rNQT7hM43W4yUxweWo24/s1600/71+albertosaurus.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhKQGegYk2eJ4sI4jwvsJRQW4NDHGRbVO1UC0fZAL3Xmf5ywHPjtIRj3YYPTf-RGMqAIPBp4_aFcV29BDcsJb587UbbHgYlFZX3H4QLPGkxaZTcgNuo7jmX5rNQT7hM43W4yUxweWo24/s640/71+albertosaurus.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAJwLuXA6hFRHK8F5kq4f2yMHFbVws8H8oRyav6U3poBAGVlrRRmwiE0WH8QRDljzpP0-N1pj2tXOW9NPPxPW89BH3CTCoecduAd_3EwC97_vouLrpPQx46UDHIaYWLjoojLYWzFMi0E/s1600/63+balaur+revised.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAJwLuXA6hFRHK8F5kq4f2yMHFbVws8H8oRyav6U3poBAGVlrRRmwiE0WH8QRDljzpP0-N1pj2tXOW9NPPxPW89BH3CTCoecduAd_3EwC97_vouLrpPQx46UDHIaYWLjoojLYWzFMi0E/s640/63+balaur+revised.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCyNetgvRx6pMkXJSwZlaFkpTaHsLLIkEpiZCyMaAYMfqMoM_27WpjwGZJpAFXaGooln8yK5lRD-dMJwC7OltRTy1scrUhR0pggtwGHVD-UgcgOCQhsBMg0BInw5lbNDR4rC4q2iOiAg/s640/54+megaspider.png" width="640" /><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmO6o-0-QXE2g3gzS9Xy92ZcrqWE1wGN3mHzcaPCX-R-y4ldGY77qcfj0P8j3PsnfxLsBYK2skGtbEpeeQXi9SeHQqLCh5Nm0z0dGPlmXEOmnNgoaQ4wKM-G1I3i2oDrh88nSKiir0ss/s1600/73+eurhinosaurus+s.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmO6o-0-QXE2g3gzS9Xy92ZcrqWE1wGN3mHzcaPCX-R-y4ldGY77qcfj0P8j3PsnfxLsBYK2skGtbEpeeQXi9SeHQqLCh5Nm0z0dGPlmXEOmnNgoaQ4wKM-G1I3i2oDrh88nSKiir0ss/s640/73+eurhinosaurus+s.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">S</span>ome of you may know that one of my glorified hobbies is the reconstruction of prehistoric (and speculative) animals. I collect all such work at a dedicated <a href="http://cmkosemenillustrated.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">illustration blog</a>, where over the years, I have developed a unique and colourful technique to realistically render such "lost beasts."<br />
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Recently, inspired by the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9SosBtiHurRdh3WBCUhgpg/videos" target="_blank">online art videos of a fellow palaeo-artist</a>, I wanted to compile a tutorial on how I make such images. Here we go then, with a step-by-step explanation of a new illustration I made just for this occasion:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimgDKAhcyCTxBMYI7PUn_01JQlFx3RoR6w-q_luxvux6x7UmECeVERWkrVSTOV3LQSDz6tCuZiEeLYONPqfQ1y7DbE8jZcCAnqCM-S5W1I2oqBHMgZc5qSkUCU7LjeBNOEl6KvEatvc7Y/s1600/bt00.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimgDKAhcyCTxBMYI7PUn_01JQlFx3RoR6w-q_luxvux6x7UmECeVERWkrVSTOV3LQSDz6tCuZiEeLYONPqfQ1y7DbE8jZcCAnqCM-S5W1I2oqBHMgZc5qSkUCU7LjeBNOEl6KvEatvc7Y/s640/bt00.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I wanted to illustrate a lesser-known plant-eating dinosaur, the truncated-looking <i><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brachytrachelopan" target="_blank">Brachytrachelopan mesai</a></i> of Argentina, a strange off-shot from the lineage of long-necked, plant-eating <b>sauropod </b>dinosaurs.<br />
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As in all palaeoart, this one began with a search for <b>skeletal drawings</b>. You can't really ball-park wildlife art, living or extinct. Without a proper skeleton, the results will look... off. That being said, you shouldn't simply trace skeletal drawings and drape skin over them either. I found my skeletal of <i>Brachytrachelopan </i>from among the work of <a href="https://www.google.com.tr/search?q=lukas+panzarin&client=safari&biw=1226&bih=626&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi0jvz8op7SAhWDO5oKHfk7CSkQ7AkIJQ" target="_blank">Lukas Panzarin</a>, a master palaeoartist from Italy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQMUHYycvfheCfmzU02EKf67XrgZ_4TR73SFV2qor7cfl75WWh3Qn2z3OM_gzub70FpWnusjatNYLv6JP2ftmOYXgU6C6NMvmvBPnZYRKeTatyrIAvu66kzYPhLzX4LJIgmeHOYp2e6s/s1600/bt01.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQMUHYycvfheCfmzU02EKf67XrgZ_4TR73SFV2qor7cfl75WWh3Qn2z3OM_gzub70FpWnusjatNYLv6JP2ftmOYXgU6C6NMvmvBPnZYRKeTatyrIAvu66kzYPhLzX4LJIgmeHOYp2e6s/s640/bt01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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I downloaded the skeletal drawing, opened it on <b>Photoshop CS6</b>, and placed it on an A3-sized black-and-white image at 300dpi resolution. Now is the time to "pose" this thing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIg2xqYa1mt0OHQzW1jrLp-cbVW0VLlJzsfDSxvJGtjzJke5t9dYRi5Vief6TVIotGi5FwKY0n9bnPV13wK_G9TbqlW6AJUnVi8hNznKf8ntR1ZFSOfcKbTpdhUvujbKdSe75iiOYNa4/s1600/bt02.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIg2xqYa1mt0OHQzW1jrLp-cbVW0VLlJzsfDSxvJGtjzJke5t9dYRi5Vief6TVIotGi5FwKY0n9bnPV13wK_G9TbqlW6AJUnVi8hNznKf8ntR1ZFSOfcKbTpdhUvujbKdSe75iiOYNa4/s640/bt02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yep - skeletals can be "posed" with a simple trick involving selections with the <b>Lasso Tool</b>. Draw around the shapes of individual bones, cut-and-paste them as separate layers and then rotate them in order to make your creature move. When rotating selections, you will also notice that you will be able to move the axis of rotation around - see the little cross-in-circle figure indicated with the arrow.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKEYISde2Lx-BmJv44BkG2t3-JG8gqJytvlI0EVcJ3XlYNmzBX6WbdXmkpwaqaoBVmQ5G9YkOMJ0_Z0JE4bE_tRVAi_QkaMewqLMV3sLn4qNBBHJEkPjirIj1AOPSaBpqnBAatqjQdUc/s1600/bt03.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKEYISde2Lx-BmJv44BkG2t3-JG8gqJytvlI0EVcJ3XlYNmzBX6WbdXmkpwaqaoBVmQ5G9YkOMJ0_Z0JE4bE_tRVAi_QkaMewqLMV3sLn4qNBBHJEkPjirIj1AOPSaBpqnBAatqjQdUc/s640/bt03.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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This will make "posing" individual bones much easier. Animals move around in a lot of strange poses, but also remember to make it realistic, balanced and evenly-weighted. Errors of balance and posing can be quickly noticed if you flip the image left-and-right. Posing is also a matter of style and originality, it'd be too easy to simply copy a skeletal drawing in the exact pose it was rendered. Believe it or not, there was once <a href="http://paleoking.blogspot.com.tr/2011/03/greg-paul-threatens-legal-smackdown.html" target="_blank">an incredibly petty and protracted debate</a> among dinosaur artists because of this very reason.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYBx_-4whYpyTTTcuItCdPBiBBW2lG_ZsHGvWHex00iAQ-0TCh5d6tnSaturHICPhV_WrZYOtbdabDMAYgnESP0_0R9OLCqojPTaWsA_bovb0wV9pw-jGDBq2N50g0vRpQfUMv1Svavc/s1600/bt04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYBx_-4whYpyTTTcuItCdPBiBBW2lG_ZsHGvWHex00iAQ-0TCh5d6tnSaturHICPhV_WrZYOtbdabDMAYgnESP0_0R9OLCqojPTaWsA_bovb0wV9pw-jGDBq2N50g0vRpQfUMv1Svavc/s640/bt04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is what the skeletal looks like after posing it for a bit. I moved the tail, legs, backbone, neck and forelimbs and made the dinosaur stand up on two legs, as if it was rearing briefly to browse, or look around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZoTbXGMC4hzQEYz8U1kLDZsNtuGL0bjOH_TCBlU4g0eP5Nj0UHFFCFArCfDQqHtcALBymWAJzKloqNEQqZR55Q8SkgnW54eCkQIryJguDIBTW7Hq-fGj8xainETLbwavkEjb2FphUbM/s1600/bt05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZoTbXGMC4hzQEYz8U1kLDZsNtuGL0bjOH_TCBlU4g0eP5Nj0UHFFCFArCfDQqHtcALBymWAJzKloqNEQqZR55Q8SkgnW54eCkQIryJguDIBTW7Hq-fGj8xainETLbwavkEjb2FphUbM/s640/bt05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, now comes the <b>"real life"</b> part. Enlarge your drawing so that it fits a full A3-sized page. It's good practice to make the "main body" of the animal as big as possible. You can split any protruding parts like tails, necks, etc. model-kit-style to better fit your sheet of paper. Now, set the opacity of the drawing to 20%, 15%, so that the black bits show in very light shades of grey...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMPk7l7YyenpEzFhubmZMvjJ0bsdcepcODgKzrltaC5ZbgWQ3eobZvRAUBsQhek9hzUgHTv22tRfMCvyhpLlGkLHIz9i54s0D1A3yDoZLyiVmhsIR5A4MjWbKDLTqXdXY1F-XZwo2gcEY/s1600/bt06.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMPk7l7YyenpEzFhubmZMvjJ0bsdcepcODgKzrltaC5ZbgWQ3eobZvRAUBsQhek9hzUgHTv22tRfMCvyhpLlGkLHIz9i54s0D1A3yDoZLyiVmhsIR5A4MjWbKDLTqXdXY1F-XZwo2gcEY/s640/bt06.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The reason of the light tone is that you'll be drawing on it in a little while, and you don't want the reference image getting mixed up with your lines. <b>Print </b>the drawing on an A3-size paper...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdFPxAu1sEh8rvp8gJIDIJ1TA7SRy7D0Mtk0FZs0bb4F0DLva5usPGF32XwNJu9I-zWbwqOAO8HgK10y1CyjgnMdKSdbNyfxHBY5ZvBg9wD8TQOkb3qmzUAnTU6LS7DFV_TuRGbGxTao/s1600/bt07.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdFPxAu1sEh8rvp8gJIDIJ1TA7SRy7D0Mtk0FZs0bb4F0DLva5usPGF32XwNJu9I-zWbwqOAO8HgK10y1CyjgnMdKSdbNyfxHBY5ZvBg9wD8TQOkb3qmzUAnTU6LS7DFV_TuRGbGxTao/s640/bt07.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and go to town on it with pens. At this point, each artist will have his or her individual style. I'm not much of a fancy-pen-and-marker-nut when it comes to pens, some of my favourites have been stolen from hotel lobbies, friends' desks, and so on. I use thick, ordinary, ball-point pens for thick lines, thinner, pigment-markers and gel-ink-pens for smaller details. As long as the ink is black, they will do the job.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEISoD0XyP2f-4xDWHicdfxPf3FS0KZACrUuSCy9RnIaJkuYH_OnrWkmvVm_lwG-F8iI8jFm2JFR__L9amzcstVH-eQx5NJRmTgLDA5yMeoSzjNAVXF1qGKAd509KPJNMsWILmPBzurJY/s1600/39+nasutuceratops+bw.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEISoD0XyP2f-4xDWHicdfxPf3FS0KZACrUuSCy9RnIaJkuYH_OnrWkmvVm_lwG-F8iI8jFm2JFR__L9amzcstVH-eQx5NJRmTgLDA5yMeoSzjNAVXF1qGKAd509KPJNMsWILmPBzurJY/s400/39+nasutuceratops+bw.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
(Alternatively, you can skip the pen-inking phase and just draw digitally over the bones, using the <b>Pencil Tool</b> at sizes 3 to 5. I used to work in this style, but the results took much longer, and seemed a little stiff and lifeless.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeQFQAK2N_6tiEuW7mrInIHiaLNDG-CfdV-yVAmjMgW__LGMxdvDKlYykC9sr1LhhZresWl-9rS1L3Fsk4BHd-Z5De3LqawPYBC6_WyEBZoTYjG9VhyphenhyphenQqMtFe3GjVuXQs2LtDE-YLCdk/s1600/bt08.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeQFQAK2N_6tiEuW7mrInIHiaLNDG-CfdV-yVAmjMgW__LGMxdvDKlYykC9sr1LhhZresWl-9rS1L3Fsk4BHd-Z5De3LqawPYBC6_WyEBZoTYjG9VhyphenhyphenQqMtFe3GjVuXQs2LtDE-YLCdk/s640/bt08.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now comes the really fun part. Use your light skeletal as a reference and render it with flesh, muscles, integument and shading. If you make any mistakes, don't worry, just indicate them with arrows and brief notes, and you'll fix them in post-production.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqF3V0bJnHQn4bWw4XCmXEc4GZK2Vsv6f8AU13FURsXhaiuOTyvgFdGsXG0yobuL32F3qAQBo8Qgm55jAgUpj55nx4v3W19kU7kpnQfdXAqUupCklWIb2tCfRTzqKSzMKW3umHhRbs0ls/s1600/bt09.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqF3V0bJnHQn4bWw4XCmXEc4GZK2Vsv6f8AU13FURsXhaiuOTyvgFdGsXG0yobuL32F3qAQBo8Qgm55jAgUpj55nx4v3W19kU7kpnQfdXAqUupCklWIb2tCfRTzqKSzMKW3umHhRbs0ls/s640/bt09.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is also the part where <b>knowledge in palaeontology, zoology and current debates in these fields really comes in handy.</b> If you've noticed, I've given the animal a soft-tissue "lump" over its nostrils. These types of plant-eating dinosaurs, the sauropods, had strangely-located nostrils that almost certainly supported some sort of soft-tissue attachment. No one knows what exactly these structures were, (<a href="https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/tetrapod-zoology/no-trunks-for-sauropods-2012/" target="_blank">elephant-like trunks</a> were even suggested), but there was definitely something there. I took the speculative liberty of giving it a <b>resonating vocal organ</b>.<br />
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I covered the neck, body and the tail with much thicker muscles than one ordinarily sees in most dinosaur reconstructions. Another speculative, but plausible addition was the integument, a series of stud-like protuberances that stretched across the animal's body. I also gave the animal a broken (and healed) set of bones in its tail. I think that this type of speculation is the heart and soul of accurate palaeo-art. I can write much more about "plausible speculation," but you can just read my <a href="https://www.amazon.com/All-Yesterdays-Speculative-Dinosaurs-Prehistoric-ebook/dp/B00A2VS55O" target="_blank">book on the subject</a>, too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9A1oL0gg9M0dbHfUsQXJ0YpbDv-4VtUqd5pBcgocm8zHme5G-uTupn-bgnPrpypVaaMG-yiH9IjAEq0th2joyb3cB1DVlVLTzBgMJAAdU1k6-s5MeUsbpbBsZntoH2PJkbrfJ297Y4s/s1600/bt10.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9A1oL0gg9M0dbHfUsQXJ0YpbDv-4VtUqd5pBcgocm8zHme5G-uTupn-bgnPrpypVaaMG-yiH9IjAEq0th2joyb3cB1DVlVLTzBgMJAAdU1k6-s5MeUsbpbBsZntoH2PJkbrfJ297Y4s/s640/bt10.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is the finished line-work. It has a number of small mistakes I'm not too happy with, but we'll correct them soon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ycAhxJQ7M5u2In_j7D9aC7VZheAUrcC6dFwoenWhczWCLInsDgTXh_6yDfrocdt5fkhlFeOuwKoioFLjIzxPRf2aBuGn_jxgbttnI8KEv34HmMtIWaEAaU3TOWeE33SBQPtjtm6vf9I/s1600/bt12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ycAhxJQ7M5u2In_j7D9aC7VZheAUrcC6dFwoenWhczWCLInsDgTXh_6yDfrocdt5fkhlFeOuwKoioFLjIzxPRf2aBuGn_jxgbttnI8KEv34HmMtIWaEAaU3TOWeE33SBQPtjtm6vf9I/s640/bt12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now, <b>scan</b> the image back, in the highest resolution available. I scanned mine at 600dpi, in A3-format. The resulting image was quite big.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_UjooOJN668NuNLr3tHXN24JbCOJBMM24ki8lPdqLRIRy5JL2N4DQYX4Js4cpFmxwEffHsqldHy-BdmrU6k3JOl2DJNXyD3D9mZXdyHxzg1TOzkBg9ZQzQDOReSSadmIL1JA4J3zfRpU/s1600/bt13.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_UjooOJN668NuNLr3tHXN24JbCOJBMM24ki8lPdqLRIRy5JL2N4DQYX4Js4cpFmxwEffHsqldHy-BdmrU6k3JOl2DJNXyD3D9mZXdyHxzg1TOzkBg9ZQzQDOReSSadmIL1JA4J3zfRpU/s640/bt13.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, now comes the magical moment: How to translate your pen-work into a congruent digital drawing? <b>There should only be two colours</b>, white and black. No intermediate tones, no anti-aliasing, no dust, no freckles, no nothing. At 100% resolution, the image should resemble a work of pixel art. In this quest, your biggest ally in Photoshop is the <b>Threshold Tool</b>, under <b>Image </b>/ <b>Adjustments</b>, which will do exactly that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj85SiQoMn6pgd4yirFIAREEJog-2PJK4PuzXBM-6XpMdy3c5EKi10J1d8b1WKwP1DHuwWWSEWwiRyV9AvJFePUvQcSiEN8j-6aAMJe8rCMvgOxKQYEInJGxPHj5YhXldsEmuR86rOhlB4/s1600/bt14.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj85SiQoMn6pgd4yirFIAREEJog-2PJK4PuzXBM-6XpMdy3c5EKi10J1d8b1WKwP1DHuwWWSEWwiRyV9AvJFePUvQcSiEN8j-6aAMJe8rCMvgOxKQYEInJGxPHj5YhXldsEmuR86rOhlB4/s640/bt14.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Use the <b>Threshold Tool</b> to clean out your image.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGsMMfnk5U1MKEMvyWeGoqqhSbzI4vgnuB3O3B-RTuYFW8PbzT_Il1ERtzRTJYpcZMbbFNCQ-A-fFBmKzG529rDg3JgcuymCrbv_ufEsOeu1AylJ3nYXb882bL5Laa5KgI9VNP-iOIKk/s1600/bt15.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGsMMfnk5U1MKEMvyWeGoqqhSbzI4vgnuB3O3B-RTuYFW8PbzT_Il1ERtzRTJYpcZMbbFNCQ-A-fFBmKzG529rDg3JgcuymCrbv_ufEsOeu1AylJ3nYXb882bL5Laa5KgI9VNP-iOIKk/s640/bt15.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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You will notice that the <b>Threshold Tool</b> will not clean things out perfectly, but will create a lot of dust-like artefacts and noise around your lines. These are shoddy and undesirable. Eliminate them by using the <b>Median Effect</b> under <b>Effects / Noise</b>, at a resolution of 3 or 2 pixels.<b> </b>After this step, make sure to use the <b>Threshold Tool again</b>, because the Median Effect will also leave some greyish artefacts around your lines.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-mUzP-pOZ1BuSqMMguYdqw3Cu4Au71LJFLfYtPr2jNS-51GMFYQL3msc22zTWTTWFhe95UOisct3QxAfulfOtHh5tWbJ9Z5UYSrsjq_zA3AhyphenhyphenorvN7WKyum7Cs9c5O_1P-dUbUJdj5w/s1600/bt16b.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-mUzP-pOZ1BuSqMMguYdqw3Cu4Au71LJFLfYtPr2jNS-51GMFYQL3msc22zTWTTWFhe95UOisct3QxAfulfOtHh5tWbJ9Z5UYSrsjq_zA3AhyphenhyphenorvN7WKyum7Cs9c5O_1P-dUbUJdj5w/s640/bt16b.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The rest of the cleaning, you will have to do by hand. Here is how the image looks when cleaner. I also connected the "model kit" tail with the rest of the body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ksSAXot4wyw7inTaZvWwCEBhOUNvwd4KHhPiAPw_uUb5CV9GRH-1nJG5Hkz-RghbTHTic9CZYKXn9g5be4pSBNr6Z4bWPWvZbz-mibnkwkpnacs4xeaVj7Xj8qF7rggoqCMoRAoCqBo/s1600/bt17.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ksSAXot4wyw7inTaZvWwCEBhOUNvwd4KHhPiAPw_uUb5CV9GRH-1nJG5Hkz-RghbTHTic9CZYKXn9g5be4pSBNr6Z4bWPWvZbz-mibnkwkpnacs4xeaVj7Xj8qF7rggoqCMoRAoCqBo/s640/bt17.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now is the time to perform the corrections I'd jotted down on the sides of the drawing. For example, the lump of fat and muscle I'd placed under the tail was too much, even by All Yesterdays standards. I pushed it back by using the <b>Liquify Filter</b>, freeze-masking the areas that I want to stay constant. After the filter, I used the <b>Threshold Tool</b> again, to remove the greyish impurities created by the <b>Liquify </b>function. I can't overstate the need to use the Threshold Tool over and over again, every time you apply a non-standard filter to your image.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6MO-RaX7APwbj8oUK3eW5mImPtl7KmElDQfJAVhkUOU_tEuCoAwXD6Tr3kQr7Bl_RmiAkq4i4VfNngWLVB5EpZ94L3giqPNIPkCi2ht83aWsZuUJ3Th_QeIjN5zHcZKZIu82TqJqGlo/s1600/bt18.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6MO-RaX7APwbj8oUK3eW5mImPtl7KmElDQfJAVhkUOU_tEuCoAwXD6Tr3kQr7Bl_RmiAkq4i4VfNngWLVB5EpZ94L3giqPNIPkCi2ht83aWsZuUJ3Th_QeIjN5zHcZKZIu82TqJqGlo/s640/bt18.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The rest of the "gigs" I clean with the <b>Pencil Tool</b>, set to pure white. You can also use the <b>Eraser Tool</b>, but make sure you set the <b>Mode </b>to <b>Pencil</b>, not Brush. Using the Eraser Tool in Brush mode will result in messy edges.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-cMalfbSg9BNnTcxzNYsNtAe4CWPaa8oCOD1oJljCfgFsgmTd0wMT4sh-1bLom96IIgZvU787_TLmHZkbup__yGel98GFqwE67jOuXMjJPaa2Hs4XPuIC5jGEkW8IQ0pMZed3efN-5g/s1600/bt19.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-cMalfbSg9BNnTcxzNYsNtAe4CWPaa8oCOD1oJljCfgFsgmTd0wMT4sh-1bLom96IIgZvU787_TLmHZkbup__yGel98GFqwE67jOuXMjJPaa2Hs4XPuIC5jGEkW8IQ0pMZed3efN-5g/s640/bt19.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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I also had to move and shrink the creature's ear. I did this with a quick flick of the <b>Lasso Tool</b>, the same selection tool I used to "pose" the skeletal drawing. As always, <b>Threshold </b>afterwards to clean up the mess caused by re-sizing the portion of your image.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihCuuymx6VyAnt-fAspxI4gUkJaiXkE4vyP1WonXhf6n8bPRWOhhaZChlPMX40qy0GF55f-2TS3XTL07lV2sbe19Qpjh7edU4v_rHLESqB5EvYuIBnH9b0LPwOjaWv69S2Vc0zrPlHLpY/s1600/bt20.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihCuuymx6VyAnt-fAspxI4gUkJaiXkE4vyP1WonXhf6n8bPRWOhhaZChlPMX40qy0GF55f-2TS3XTL07lV2sbe19Qpjh7edU4v_rHLESqB5EvYuIBnH9b0LPwOjaWv69S2Vc0zrPlHLpY/s640/bt20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is the fully-cleaned <i>Brachytrachelopan, </i>with an inset of its head. I spent a lot of time cleaning parts of the head and the body. Sometimes, even the thickness and angle of an individual line, or hatching, can put the whole image off.<i> </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_8KdIVc36u79c-sLI4LhrfCjjgnI_3TbRpkewhw6FrlCAp2f9Gr0NgvKk5ZuJXdJOIML8WEVl4nN1-6-yVNG4qTQgr89vBpKvofHUud1NSjsHwwpzSunE2zcJYkat9Lp_1SpUB_9YGk/s1600/bt21.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_8KdIVc36u79c-sLI4LhrfCjjgnI_3TbRpkewhw6FrlCAp2f9Gr0NgvKk5ZuJXdJOIML8WEVl4nN1-6-yVNG4qTQgr89vBpKvofHUud1NSjsHwwpzSunE2zcJYkat9Lp_1SpUB_9YGk/s640/bt21.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now begins the colouring process. One of the neat tools that can help you at this junction is the <a href="http://paintschainer.preferred.tech/" target="_blank"><b>PaintsChainer</b></a> online tool that uses some sort of Neural Net AI to automatically colorise your images. In some images, it's <a href="http://cmkosemensketchbook.tumblr.com/post/156971032555/ive-been-using-the-new-paintschainer-ai-tool-by" target="_blank">hauntingly</a> <a href="http://cmkosemensketchbook.tumblr.com/post/156970628975/ive-been-using-the-new-paintschainer-ai-tool-by" target="_blank">effective</a>. In other cases, you can give "hints" to <b>PaintsChainer</b> to better come up with colour schemes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhew4hcUFY3IG-2DqJyY-tRiz0dEexY8gNH8Mi_pCsu-ErLUsDsfP_JTrPGhXXSU9rQ7WDkR-ELFTnbPhXly5LlxvRDfeSyIycemnFb3db3pk2URBPLldGL6RNGWB2qJBNxb0VvNjVBIk8/s1600/bt24.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhew4hcUFY3IG-2DqJyY-tRiz0dEexY8gNH8Mi_pCsu-ErLUsDsfP_JTrPGhXXSU9rQ7WDkR-ELFTnbPhXly5LlxvRDfeSyIycemnFb3db3pk2URBPLldGL6RNGWB2qJBNxb0VvNjVBIk8/s640/bt24.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPGCDyBV0hW_oEOZELVx4fwYjWu_Ufm3zroHSmH0sWg4Nsn4zh-98VPfgGRfmv3qzQEEzJMPYmZ1iyYCUkLShqVKQLVDj7Wqb0ipMnteiCtih4EK_GDB4RFxrwtXP-7izCT93Tlq32-Y4/s1600/bt23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPGCDyBV0hW_oEOZELVx4fwYjWu_Ufm3zroHSmH0sWg4Nsn4zh-98VPfgGRfmv3qzQEEzJMPYmZ1iyYCUkLShqVKQLVDj7Wqb0ipMnteiCtih4EK_GDB4RFxrwtXP-7izCT93Tlq32-Y4/s640/bt23.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimG81EjAeJrWzDebaxPSs5m_GipM4qGF5glGlDHMUESKZGTRq2pKhWAPBAfEsG7GRbE5eJdt8sU8T5vLsT8Ypsw3JOwb818LpHLvId2TIwKXyWDoWu6GMoS4U_OBW38wdjhMBe47RTtnI/s1600/bt22.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimG81EjAeJrWzDebaxPSs5m_GipM4qGF5glGlDHMUESKZGTRq2pKhWAPBAfEsG7GRbE5eJdt8sU8T5vLsT8Ypsw3JOwb818LpHLvId2TIwKXyWDoWu6GMoS4U_OBW38wdjhMBe47RTtnI/s640/bt22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are some of the neat images generated by <b>PaintsChainer</b> for my <i>Brachytrachelopan</i>. I was really fond of the pinkish tones in the final image. Machines have made unnerving process in our age, but they can still not create the final, completed pieces. Use software like <b>PaintsChainer </b>only as inspiration, never as actual, finished work.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYkagQ0qdsIyOsawz7y87Pv0UNf-S3uwsjyh4zKjwX3E-GOB4XNen0yTBxesXcTmUwyBG6T-FjqXd8vadgvLunmUFrIHeSWXlcdUeAFNtwse93opXj45PQG5xIHIc2ydPEwBmh72ATng/s1600/bt25.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYkagQ0qdsIyOsawz7y87Pv0UNf-S3uwsjyh4zKjwX3E-GOB4XNen0yTBxesXcTmUwyBG6T-FjqXd8vadgvLunmUFrIHeSWXlcdUeAFNtwse93opXj45PQG5xIHIc2ydPEwBmh72ATng/s640/bt25.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Also, don't forget that <b>all artists stand on the shoulders of giants</b>. I routinely research the work of nature illustrators, especially bird artists, to provide me with inspiration and knowledge for the colour schemes, poses and composition of artwork featuring dinosaurs. Here is a screenshot from my research into the work of <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Agassiz_Fuertes" target="_blank">Louis Agassiz Fuertes</a></b>, a celebrated American ornithologist.<br />
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Always hone your research skills, and always learn from the work of others. In the future, with machines handling more and more of the scut-work of art, an artist's knowledge and research skills will give him or her as much an edge as their technical abilities.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIPfsRAFm6aMr0HWmyeP_Dg7xQ_tu4GoEX0DJJ-dHld4YK2utUdhMVx_AqismdZL5LQsWPhnkn_6dQXfd0jcFEb525Q5oL9qbu86Md90XVJ2aZH1aXxYWm8EnvB9aTRUs584PLIyxac2c/s1600/bt26.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIPfsRAFm6aMr0HWmyeP_Dg7xQ_tu4GoEX0DJJ-dHld4YK2utUdhMVx_AqismdZL5LQsWPhnkn_6dQXfd0jcFEb525Q5oL9qbu86Md90XVJ2aZH1aXxYWm8EnvB9aTRUs584PLIyxac2c/s640/bt26.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, now let's get ready to colourise. Choose the <b>Paint Bucket Tool</b> from the sidebar. Most importantly, make sure the <b>Tolerance </b>level is set to <b>0</b>, and that <b>Anti-aliasing</b>, that damned gimmick of mediocrity, is switched <b>off</b>. This will help your colours and lines stay crisp and undamaged throughout the colourising process.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2hHhi8D-PXffbzpt-qLh33Dpzs6dokQq7aFHi91SDy7dsbvNN5o6EenRM5dhB2L7YP3-g4abyNXO8Z1kv5QsxiYwJZY9VPU2Wga1wxw7u9eKYTINEEU4zG6ktDagsndaR_qJpRUUvP4s/s1600/bt27.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2hHhi8D-PXffbzpt-qLh33Dpzs6dokQq7aFHi91SDy7dsbvNN5o6EenRM5dhB2L7YP3-g4abyNXO8Z1kv5QsxiYwJZY9VPU2Wga1wxw7u9eKYTINEEU4zG6ktDagsndaR_qJpRUUvP4s/s640/bt27.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Pick the colours from your <b>PaintsChainer </b>images and research pictures, and fill out the background first. You'll notice that I picked the background colour from the sky in Agassiz Fuertes' image. Then, switch the <b>Contiguous </b>function <b>off </b>from the <b>Paint Bucket Tool</b> control bar, and fill in the main body of the animal in one deft move.<br />
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Also, and this is very important; <b>fill the colours of the lines in a dark hue as well</b>. They shouldn't stay black just because they are lines. Try dark blue, dark green... sometimes, even lighter shades may work surprisingly well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHKfPfRne9y3rKOKvQ-y7TGcMuBPoe8KtVpZxPcv53W5YaneeCHPdGxx6qbh7yp_UH7QY2hj8gxIXYrx-JILoVMBVaVZwpLdmUo0AJV2MCTW6Dnq97OIwJCGUqyDgjdgF_QA3Kd1YJBxg/s1600/bt28.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHKfPfRne9y3rKOKvQ-y7TGcMuBPoe8KtVpZxPcv53W5YaneeCHPdGxx6qbh7yp_UH7QY2hj8gxIXYrx-JILoVMBVaVZwpLdmUo0AJV2MCTW6Dnq97OIwJCGUqyDgjdgF_QA3Kd1YJBxg/s640/bt28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Experiment a lot with colours before deciding on the final "base" plan. Here are four screenshots from my process. In fact, I usually leave a day between the drawing and the colourising phases to get a better pick of colours, rethink things and make a few last-minute adjustments. As that old geezer in <i>Toy Story 2</i> said, you can't rush art.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkKs52DwxKYQCWE4RjVQcVFjiFc-BM8HBWD312iEVDTpIaZfPC0TvYsJC2jQu1hEFxSXNaITv1w-QMgoPV9nic4blsOvnwBXvn9Yxh8LXvFZTPl2Y1UwRCw6lGiKcD_zd0f3EXDQQ3EQ/s1600/bt29.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkKs52DwxKYQCWE4RjVQcVFjiFc-BM8HBWD312iEVDTpIaZfPC0TvYsJC2jQu1hEFxSXNaITv1w-QMgoPV9nic4blsOvnwBXvn9Yxh8LXvFZTPl2Y1UwRCw6lGiKcD_zd0f3EXDQQ3EQ/s640/bt29.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, now it's the second day at work on <i>Brachytrachelopan</i>, and we're getting ready to paint our figure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJneoy_H0d-njOjuZKfdo_0bjpiyO1Fg-Ry71g2G6eb_c5eavPwpjAWVckc6WK3ErOON_v4witgwkclA5Yc93UF92uoyGle6gbODnWMQmC7kKd_TJSZ2h6CxuZsmq98n4jfT6fuaCtaM/s1600/bt30.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJneoy_H0d-njOjuZKfdo_0bjpiyO1Fg-Ry71g2G6eb_c5eavPwpjAWVckc6WK3ErOON_v4witgwkclA5Yc93UF92uoyGle6gbODnWMQmC7kKd_TJSZ2h6CxuZsmq98n4jfT6fuaCtaM/s640/bt30.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The whole reason I've avoided anti-aliasing and unnecessary colours now becomes apparent. To colour the entire figure, select the base colour of the beast with the <b>Magic Wand Tool</b>, at <b>Tolerance </b>set to <b>0</b>, and the pesky <b>Anti-alias</b> and <b>Contiguous </b>functions switched <b>off</b>. Now you've selected the entire base colour, without fearing to "spill over" to the edges, or the lines.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxn6MlJp81RiYdySto6pKN2A1VY7lYCVEjfNNsJCChE0oKATW881i-EwGiLge7yKZvJWreqwqbo5kNIJ8S_gK6d3U5wimdm_v6_tec0aK49L5LfxE4x4G6l-k3UyWYkTmv0f7XBNuwDw/s1600/bt31.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxn6MlJp81RiYdySto6pKN2A1VY7lYCVEjfNNsJCChE0oKATW881i-EwGiLge7yKZvJWreqwqbo5kNIJ8S_gK6d3U5wimdm_v6_tec0aK49L5LfxE4x4G6l-k3UyWYkTmv0f7XBNuwDw/s640/bt31.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now it's up to your manual skills, only on a tablet this time. I've used the same <b>Wacom ET-0405A-U tablet</b> since 2003. I've used the <b>Cintiq </b>devices too, they are damned effective, but cumbersome and baroque in long-term operation. As far as I'm concerned, (but opinions can differ), the larger, screen-less tablets, and the new fancy "Bamboo" tablets, with their unnecessarily smart functions, are all a bit worthless.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWvEzs9H6VEzhKckqqVLJ74iyI2s24sYjDRMcuo5Gju4PwI8E1ootTgOHwQj-3G57cK51wRqJrWbCQsS3XRIdwcJq64tKCANiOvcbaaVG_sedF3aXOFrB4OmfAVhyGc-9gebyUweR2bI/s1600/bt32.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWvEzs9H6VEzhKckqqVLJ74iyI2s24sYjDRMcuo5Gju4PwI8E1ootTgOHwQj-3G57cK51wRqJrWbCQsS3XRIdwcJq64tKCANiOvcbaaVG_sedF3aXOFrB4OmfAVhyGc-9gebyUweR2bI/s640/bt32.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, now select the <b>Pencil Tool</b>, shift the <b>Opacity </b>setting to anything between <b>60%</b> and <b>10%</b>, and start layering in colours like a series of transparent curtains, moving from the head of the animal to the tail region. Use low opacities and multiple strokes for smoother transitions, higher opacities for steeper transitions. After the main gradients, move in to <b>focal areas </b>such as<b> eyes, wattles, mouth parts, display structures, sacs</b>, etc. for detail work. If you are feeling bold, you can even re-paint the entire body, scale-by-scale. Needless to say, it takes a bit of expertise to build-up one's colourisation skills in this manner. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcb4Pwvv5BpzujZBwBH0QtuTMdOYSNIZkJxwPIzPXDia7NTCXyXEgPk5nei04_44ywoaoXJNUV-NifY1I_JPn95wbQCA8ramkn91PZvZqdlf43UC7Lev_r2vWfEiS-pMIaXWfR1G-z3PM/s1600/bt34.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcb4Pwvv5BpzujZBwBH0QtuTMdOYSNIZkJxwPIzPXDia7NTCXyXEgPk5nei04_44ywoaoXJNUV-NifY1I_JPn95wbQCA8ramkn91PZvZqdlf43UC7Lev_r2vWfEiS-pMIaXWfR1G-z3PM/s640/bt34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is my <i>Brachytrachelopan </i>with its base colour scheme. It's starting to look like a strange bird-thing and less like a big lizard, which is exactly the angle I was going for in this illustration. Always use a lot of research for coloration, but <b>consult, never copy</b>. Ideally, your animal should have a natural-looking colour scheme, but it shouldn't be a copy (a "skin-job") of an extant animal, <b>it should look like its own thing</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQpwDq4RbiKiQUeVWf2OPNnlytnzoW5W8dyLhrDC5MSixvS3kDyM_0WcJCOXSp7uOloHoXVKOChmLijW4w0bBdm1NNs64rg3vPGq1YkHHmbrCBH8bBuNSFJWfOym1fb8wAI6FgkrCqTs/s1600/bt35.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQpwDq4RbiKiQUeVWf2OPNnlytnzoW5W8dyLhrDC5MSixvS3kDyM_0WcJCOXSp7uOloHoXVKOChmLijW4w0bBdm1NNs64rg3vPGq1YkHHmbrCBH8bBuNSFJWfOym1fb8wAI6FgkrCqTs/s640/bt35.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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At this point, the <b>speculative mind-set</b> is also very useful. Imagine how your animal would have lived. <i>Brachytrachelopan </i>was a "small" sauropod dinosaur, perhaps living in the forest itself, much like a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapir" target="_blank">tapir</a> or an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okapi" target="_blank">okapi</a>, while its titanic relatives grazed on the plains or on the edges of gallery forests. Ergo, I figured that it may have had a pattern of strange spots to break up its outline in the mottled undergrowth forest.<br />
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I rendered the spots by opening up <b>a new layer</b>, using the <b>Magic Wand Tool</b> to select everything that is <u>not</u> the <b>background </b><u>and</u> the <b>line colour</b>, and individually drawing the markings. Once again you shouldn't half-ass the patterns and just use a texture - trust me, <b>it will show</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf0AOFdO5wtcJRN528yrNUIqQLIFm8QNQchS_gwwTvwKHo9Pn9R6UOPJTAPsode2gIg8XKYUY4C8VV1WihjPyiAGmbfULHbnhD149WZ5Ixe_mZYs3NTUbZkJH9sN2XjGpsh72GNlaVb2c/s1600/bt36.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf0AOFdO5wtcJRN528yrNUIqQLIFm8QNQchS_gwwTvwKHo9Pn9R6UOPJTAPsode2gIg8XKYUY4C8VV1WihjPyiAGmbfULHbnhD149WZ5Ixe_mZYs3NTUbZkJH9sN2XjGpsh72GNlaVb2c/s640/bt36.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made the spots on a separate layer, because I could manipulate their opacity, or change their colour afterwards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi71lR1W-baJXa57xe92kvVKcGoPKZQGcFIVEy69Brrh7ZzJwBseCb2oYHgrpbf2JHvQWwCzLfplYQdt4JRFFBAk2KspeMA84FHB8nhQmKJbEMivpkkwN_i_UEv6N0xMJuGXOCCuSFtEvs/s1600/bt37.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi71lR1W-baJXa57xe92kvVKcGoPKZQGcFIVEy69Brrh7ZzJwBseCb2oYHgrpbf2JHvQWwCzLfplYQdt4JRFFBAk2KspeMA84FHB8nhQmKJbEMivpkkwN_i_UEv6N0xMJuGXOCCuSFtEvs/s640/bt37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Flatten the layers, tweak a little with the <b>Hue/Saturation</b>,<b> Curves</b> and <b>Levels </b>settings, and you are done! <b>Or are you?</b> So far, the <i>Brachytrachelopan </i>drawing took up something like six or eight hours of work, spread over two days. It looks very pleasing, but I want to further convey that this was a real animal that once walked on this planet. We need a frame of reference to show this...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKTUG-9h-PWGVIvJknH3VO6ghMyys5Ec4iXvjj6zi1F-v086bByjGvzTHvktQ9WkQK70Q49W2YUW1Z5uqMOp_bJ8sZkAfhNPZdl-n7h-UOC5__J-1_MG5-fPllXTAejxM8VpPdVOk4aM/s1600/bt38.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKTUG-9h-PWGVIvJknH3VO6ghMyys5Ec4iXvjj6zi1F-v086bByjGvzTHvktQ9WkQK70Q49W2YUW1Z5uqMOp_bJ8sZkAfhNPZdl-n7h-UOC5__J-1_MG5-fPllXTAejxM8VpPdVOk4aM/s640/bt38.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
...and what better frame of reference for a dinosaur than the image of a human being next to it?<br />
I now went back to my original, "posed" skeletal drawing and consulted some online references, courtesy of <b>Matt Wedel</b> of the <b><a href="https://svpow.com/" target="_blank">Sauropod Vertebra Picture of the Week</a></b> fame. Using Matt's figure of relative size, I found and scaled the image of a girl from an online image library.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KZLYR6Loy7vPQcsbXWqJlTBnjbulaswjh-5OyC5_HvRC7JL_oFnphcYsyFEUIlP0I5vtHGEV2Kq5O2pvDxorsjKIf6hccWQRZLCdDukSknSb9za07TVnm_3Aou6S4GKV0Bg662rVDbI/s1600/bt39.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KZLYR6Loy7vPQcsbXWqJlTBnjbulaswjh-5OyC5_HvRC7JL_oFnphcYsyFEUIlP0I5vtHGEV2Kq5O2pvDxorsjKIf6hccWQRZLCdDukSknSb9za07TVnm_3Aou6S4GKV0Bg662rVDbI/s640/bt39.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I eliminated every other detail, only scaling the girl to her relative size next to the creature on an A3-sized paper and reducing her opacity to 15%.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgqxhOBx0IE-5gAPiJfzWRTJ0C6WjpVNfJ68MO4a0E893Em2BTgy4GLcVnx_5b4OIxe3-zGTkeupSinfV6XbnZDxnEfSqpivlITAd-yfGgl0GeAGLCsYB2tXEuFuyrcBjUgDNcdwNkao/s1600/bt40.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgqxhOBx0IE-5gAPiJfzWRTJ0C6WjpVNfJ68MO4a0E893Em2BTgy4GLcVnx_5b4OIxe3-zGTkeupSinfV6XbnZDxnEfSqpivlITAd-yfGgl0GeAGLCsYB2tXEuFuyrcBjUgDNcdwNkao/s640/bt40.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I then printed the scaled image and once again, went to work on it with my set of pens. You may ask why I didn't simply print the image of the girl on any piece of paper and draw her independently. The answer is <b>line weight -</b> the girl would have looked pasted-on if I'd drawn her at a bigger resolution and scaled her down.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAK18fP4t8ci6VZbWv-nA0_KnotGXQTYYw463KbQ0HSgXAUqAnRY0IHs5h9kXyr9PMfxRSGqrlGfSn6x6dLB34JJeqT-u9EcKQKHzsHaOGelvdtn1M0n6rCyLaZH9vUf1VPUF1eDSJVzA/s1600/bt40b.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAK18fP4t8ci6VZbWv-nA0_KnotGXQTYYw463KbQ0HSgXAUqAnRY0IHs5h9kXyr9PMfxRSGqrlGfSn6x6dLB34JJeqT-u9EcKQKHzsHaOGelvdtn1M0n6rCyLaZH9vUf1VPUF1eDSJVzA/s640/bt40b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Drawing people is <b>difficult</b>, much harder than it appears at first glance. Even experts of palaeoart will get stuck when rendering convincing-looking human figures. A simple slip of the line will push human figures into <b>uncanny valley</b> territory - we are simply too keen on what a person should (and shouldn't) look like. This goes to show that with extinct animals, their true appearances safely lost in the oblivion of time, artists are actually making mistakes and assumptions all the time.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1QqbYQUDR29vUbblwddgBn-dQDcyXBGPxwomQqAEfpe9HLEmg1rNlB74ZQZh493E5ZvWaQPzJkd3zEqpaAEzaxBtkEtbZ0wjBCMfbDX1EYxLFi38ZmyyNpVAMQKZjCjkkwwUJbbNJfs/s1600/bt41.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1QqbYQUDR29vUbblwddgBn-dQDcyXBGPxwomQqAEfpe9HLEmg1rNlB74ZQZh493E5ZvWaQPzJkd3zEqpaAEzaxBtkEtbZ0wjBCMfbDX1EYxLFi38ZmyyNpVAMQKZjCjkkwwUJbbNJfs/s640/bt41.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I carry on with my drawing of the girl much like I progressed with the animal figure, laying down my lines and indicating where I have to make corrections. With reference figures, I always try to have friendly-looking, self-confident girls as models. I don't like <a href="http://www.donglutsdinosaurs.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Edmontosaurus-skull-cast-1.jpg" target="_blank">unnecessary nudity or sexism</a> in my figures either. Cute, "girl next door" types and antediluvian monsters are the thing for me; perhaps there is something deeply psychological at work here.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZRz4blFeEXNcg-93BVEhUbBMBkvvOqaWPI31KnAoXVy8vmfVVqlrLV6vsIfhf3qK_xVlIvyRMDtij9hUsOtaSX9uAslGonYKhFfKt4Z1ILyUucnGw2ncbbD3UrPlhyphenhyphengRIT98zoTfoR4/s1600/bt42.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZRz4blFeEXNcg-93BVEhUbBMBkvvOqaWPI31KnAoXVy8vmfVVqlrLV6vsIfhf3qK_xVlIvyRMDtij9hUsOtaSX9uAslGonYKhFfKt4Z1ILyUucnGw2ncbbD3UrPlhyphenhyphengRIT98zoTfoR4/s640/bt42.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
With the drawing complete, I scanned the image of the girl at a similar resolution, and placed her next to the <i>Brachytrachelopan</i>.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGPzL-9D0nNHnMII8ckik1Mx-zyE-KT2WllnUdFLKDhwSTIgEOvzbeYF7OUXJvgrP_nItrbEXhpfpTJ9so8iUefS7K_i8b2XuuZQQ2lyimwlcy4hpU8OpBOZVRcaRdmyhGXqCE-a8J9zY/s1600/bt43.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGPzL-9D0nNHnMII8ckik1Mx-zyE-KT2WllnUdFLKDhwSTIgEOvzbeYF7OUXJvgrP_nItrbEXhpfpTJ9so8iUefS7K_i8b2XuuZQQ2lyimwlcy4hpU8OpBOZVRcaRdmyhGXqCE-a8J9zY/s640/bt43.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The cleaning and thresholding of the girl proceeded much like the <i>Brachytrachelopan </i>figure.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2BW2vF1VLq6AZ9TezzXD6x6i0lwGk4M18-86CtBJ9bGX0w_T9VlNT08trDoN4PMBERB45JZku5_em0MtnOf4ZRoMzY38Y0LZ5I4hyphenhyphenmDsQ6of6iikxBAz83C5cdNecNA9fvNY-fYvsDxo/s1600/bt44.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2BW2vF1VLq6AZ9TezzXD6x6i0lwGk4M18-86CtBJ9bGX0w_T9VlNT08trDoN4PMBERB45JZku5_em0MtnOf4ZRoMzY38Y0LZ5I4hyphenhyphenmDsQ6of6iikxBAz83C5cdNecNA9fvNY-fYvsDxo/s640/bt44.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I spent a lot of time on the figure, partly because I like painting women, and partly because I want the final image to look more realistic. Ideally, one should spend as much time on the "scale figure" as the main creature itself.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdDUuZvksU-ArJmaIqsFHO3jgKkgF5HqaNPUuR0aC9F3EcBVvH63ldLEcMmTghU4tz2gExBr80FRLo2HbeMrSEb1e46GoSlX6k5CvLFKg9KIVvvHF8Vrs1PzfoU-zPerXDWp1-SlqMHM/s1600/bt45.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdDUuZvksU-ArJmaIqsFHO3jgKkgF5HqaNPUuR0aC9F3EcBVvH63ldLEcMmTghU4tz2gExBr80FRLo2HbeMrSEb1e46GoSlX6k5CvLFKg9KIVvvHF8Vrs1PzfoU-zPerXDWp1-SlqMHM/s640/bt45.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Here is the finished scale figure. Drawing details of hair, eyes, clothing, etc. on a woman is almost as fun as drawing the crests and scales on an extinct animal.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-kJOPsdWHQJHMOZvlON4e3ihZZWw_cePmEqJ_mtn3eZqQvdjEabRp5ul5pW-GYEjbyIxVe2KiopFOTgmbiwN2xg6i3xwq7Xi_N2QQYUmwxnMJfwkdoacfjd5gLCjJssjrcBt2lE2-KE/s1600/bt46.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-kJOPsdWHQJHMOZvlON4e3ihZZWw_cePmEqJ_mtn3eZqQvdjEabRp5ul5pW-GYEjbyIxVe2KiopFOTgmbiwN2xg6i3xwq7Xi_N2QQYUmwxnMJfwkdoacfjd5gLCjJssjrcBt2lE2-KE/s640/bt46.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A few final, <i>final </i>adjustments, and the piece is ready for publication.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_EirF_82njYcXUE7_loWvyW95w86q2oJb8r-jMyXtXFeU2hlvp54cNF56G3LHNIY2NN-TUQIHTWXq-iOmn9Kj4ka5SaOF2uiYyIbxYwMvVlzflLLmFE2WDye9Lve0UDVc6MICI8jVoVE/s1600/bt47.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_EirF_82njYcXUE7_loWvyW95w86q2oJb8r-jMyXtXFeU2hlvp54cNF56G3LHNIY2NN-TUQIHTWXq-iOmn9Kj4ka5SaOF2uiYyIbxYwMvVlzflLLmFE2WDye9Lve0UDVc6MICI8jVoVE/s640/bt47.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
I took a colour print to see the final version. Success!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2JIYwyKA3pjNacEmHLavCZiLLSYn969lq5nhy_EKvIrnIpVPlhHXQLL0u3mBuKjaabJ8MsYwKsNVZjFwhloZcpcnB4iiObibR1WTg-bsx9Ds5dLpObYL9peVdHtHT0E8ODTqIIVGLqc/s1600/bt48.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2JIYwyKA3pjNacEmHLavCZiLLSYn969lq5nhy_EKvIrnIpVPlhHXQLL0u3mBuKjaabJ8MsYwKsNVZjFwhloZcpcnB4iiObibR1WTg-bsx9Ds5dLpObYL9peVdHtHT0E8ODTqIIVGLqc/s640/bt48.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5MaNGw1BpIdIe7TRf-gCGX_yZs1cLVWnSBAMj3nhJjKynSpPXZU-_dKvZ-PhoL3K53A3riO8o0lGGlxut9sw8H6MfermrCypgwpNvI5pJfdKpmpmMmrV6EMyPJBeuNajKnBDaE69w2-k/s1600/bt49.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5MaNGw1BpIdIe7TRf-gCGX_yZs1cLVWnSBAMj3nhJjKynSpPXZU-_dKvZ-PhoL3K53A3riO8o0lGGlxut9sw8H6MfermrCypgwpNvI5pJfdKpmpmMmrV6EMyPJBeuNajKnBDaE69w2-k/s640/bt49.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The truth is, every artist is a learning artist and every illustration and sketch teaches us new things.<br />
I hope you've enjoyed my <i>Brachytrachelopan </i>illustration, and I'll be very happy if you try to emulate the styles and techniques I've shown here. Ultimately, however, every artist has their own <i>spiel</i>, and this was mine, so far. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<b><u>Update - 2018:</u></b><br />
Since it was first published, many people have used this tutorial to create their own dinosaur-themed artworks. I am so proud! Here is a brief sampling:<br />
<br />
<b> </b><br />
<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtC1nhm2-dKoRqBlQ3RHo3BGPbLnzjsD9U7aeLP8WUK_SZ3oshqo7KeqtDegzpBTxrWlbb3GJqkZMXHiI2zd5hNfUzagDT4VWgMzieMjZVvw1S6-MDn2pqfBOWQlMysmjARpQ5ELbgXz-U/s1600/megaraptora+2016+ash+patch.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtC1nhm2-dKoRqBlQ3RHo3BGPbLnzjsD9U7aeLP8WUK_SZ3oshqo7KeqtDegzpBTxrWlbb3GJqkZMXHiI2zd5hNfUzagDT4VWgMzieMjZVvw1S6-MDn2pqfBOWQlMysmjARpQ5ELbgXz-U/s640/megaraptora+2016+ash+patch.png" width="640" /></a></b><br />
<b><i>Murusraptor</i> and <i>Gualicho</i></b> by Ashley Patch. <br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">(Ashley has been a long-time follower of my works, and emulated my style before this tutorial was published.)</span><br />
<b> </b><br />
<b><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxP-Ejr6-QLcw-TPqyMt73p7s0fg0FrEzxNptH9LOpGPGWG-bNx-3nDPP3pCKRN2pmEcQFXVY02X3wmikZvNobBacfKvqJk5077H0R-dB9y1NfTJ9Vw37VuSnmFCz62aOrfVPRMzXPOru/s640/pachyrhinosaurus+by+matt+mccarthy.png" width="640" /><br /><i>Pachyrhinosaurus</i> </b>by Matt Mc Carthy.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4TIkv_SQMCtqsiilCMUYqiGdXhnwY1TEBwqPu-UJdsICypms3KZfFstOrTIpEPmELF2rBKMbm8debz5VoxaTPO_PXN0QHUBJUtokmfg7MDi_CO1c2FpwxTluMN0FtClk1z7rgEOjHpnq/s640/tyrant+swinger+midiaou+diallo.jpeg" width="640" /><b>Tyrant Swinger</b>, <i><b>Allosaurus</b></i> by Midiaou Diallo.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPwlX6CtBtwtVAkGZLMkoKF1ajz3SlvYxnGFXvW9vMhTyhv7MQeOEUVQUxX4uR7HhWE_7GsXLydbTWhYB2iQbq2ox8tgO9-0thh_6Ng1xRktVzejw8CwSVGxJFZ0UnvrvO52x3V_c9t7h/s640/eotyrannus_by_darthmobius-dc6gykw.png" width="640" /><br />
<i><b>Eotyrannus</b></i> by Jakub Bobrowicz.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrV-Frna6XPHOrsA8pxL67s7Mr7SSpjZ7obQKpmLkZ28as9lV1KFyLc_5OZDEYFgb8Y64_9B0w9Fn1bFYIjZQMUdA9Ns2ZD-AYRV6rsZ_wQmnnVT0QDpanqnvk8yrmY6XkztCOnccSgfvY/s1600/30411824_1865491693516242_2314711700068106240_n.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrV-Frna6XPHOrsA8pxL67s7Mr7SSpjZ7obQKpmLkZ28as9lV1KFyLc_5OZDEYFgb8Y64_9B0w9Fn1bFYIjZQMUdA9Ns2ZD-AYRV6rsZ_wQmnnVT0QDpanqnvk8yrmY6XkztCOnccSgfvY/s640/30411824_1865491693516242_2314711700068106240_n.png" width="640" /></a><br />
<b><i>Gorgosaurus </i></b>by Jakub Bobrowicz.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhUhzpE4oLFyymh1xvvM-uY8NilGYEFsV1s4LW8WhPjDRoE3_RusLue0ZZELRUQ9utdZpsozUKyb5etdybPlRfNKS-R43iUUkP5RP6mXazgcAb-8oolX3GGGpn5zr5PjCFNTDzRuHHcJy/s1600/30515854_1865491786849566_4931344461285294080_n.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhUhzpE4oLFyymh1xvvM-uY8NilGYEFsV1s4LW8WhPjDRoE3_RusLue0ZZELRUQ9utdZpsozUKyb5etdybPlRfNKS-R43iUUkP5RP6mXazgcAb-8oolX3GGGpn5zr5PjCFNTDzRuHHcJy/s640/30515854_1865491786849566_4931344461285294080_n.png" width="640" /></a><br />
<b><i>Muttaburrasaurus </i>Couple </b>by Jakub Bobrowicz.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZAMucJAM9s6MnWouatG2ZBNHVGTHIujgg8XwmywdMU3nG9r8Cl26Ug2E7bUPxbzVwnuZA1JewMYmi3tYtIdZBkn5T0D_HYWxJkhEulUkH5F5K7V1jEHpK9ay5x_fjUHnhWkiV4eLy47yj/s1600/monarch_of_hell_creek_by_terathefeathernazi-dcdo698.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="1600" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZAMucJAM9s6MnWouatG2ZBNHVGTHIujgg8XwmywdMU3nG9r8Cl26Ug2E7bUPxbzVwnuZA1JewMYmi3tYtIdZBkn5T0D_HYWxJkhEulUkH5F5K7V1jEHpK9ay5x_fjUHnhWkiV4eLy47yj/s640/monarch_of_hell_creek_by_terathefeathernazi-dcdo698.png" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<b><i>Tyrannosaurus, </i>Monarch of Hell Creek </b>by Ahmed Abdelsalam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinBzKRneRluUyhO4dnX170pUgqed8rsd7vRC9ejKvF0FS6lE9wwDEZCoFxflBHbVXDbld2Ex9fsUHz79JS-DLi0lI1Vp2cCEdTRDnBeC5i2kzDSiM_2iPmibMN0qH2VY7maEICruWyLezQ/s1600/carnivorous_sauropodomorph_by_dontknowwhattodraw94-dartzri.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="1024" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinBzKRneRluUyhO4dnX170pUgqed8rsd7vRC9ejKvF0FS6lE9wwDEZCoFxflBHbVXDbld2Ex9fsUHz79JS-DLi0lI1Vp2cCEdTRDnBeC5i2kzDSiM_2iPmibMN0qH2VY7maEICruWyLezQ/s640/carnivorous_sauropodomorph_by_dontknowwhattodraw94-dartzri.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<b><i>Buriolestes </i></b>by Robin Liesens.<br /><br />
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<b><i>Malawisaurus </i></b>by Jakub Bobrowicz.<br />
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Perhaps thanks to the popularity of this article, <a href="https://www.boredpanda.com/prehistoric-animals-palaeontological-art-cmkosemen/" target="_blank"><b>a gallery of my palaeoart has also been featured in a "click-bait" content site.</b></a><br />
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-86173985553941515742017-01-31T03:04:00.003-08:002018-02-15T04:50:35.144-08:00Garden City, Tel Aviv<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: small;">Between December 2016 and January 2017 I visited <b>Tel Aviv</b> for a long stay that culminated in the <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByV5-S712cg8Y2NjdzBWWnM3YVk/view" target="_blank">opening of my first big solo art exhibit</a> outside Turkey.</span><br />
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During my stay I was greatly interested in architectural details and the abundance of sub-tropical flora in this city, and took every opportunity to get lost in its streets. I photographed the strange and beautiful interplay plants and buildings: <i>Bauhaus </i>apartments slowly decaying among tucked-in gardens of palms; <i>Dracenas</i>; feral <i>agaves</i>; rampant, erotic boughs of self-penetrating figs; strange figurines on old dusty storefronts; cozy-looking balconies; brief glimpses of living rooms packed with books; and so on.<br />
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I came up with pictures which may seem normal to a resident of Tel Aviv, but to an outsider; or at least in my humble view; manage to capture parts of the city's unique and unnoticed character. I usually write a lot of commentary with photo-blog entries, but this time I'll keep explanations to a minimum and let the images do the talking. Dive in and enjoy Tel Aviv - Israel's "garden city."</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/"></a><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/"><span style="font-size: medium;">www.cmkosemen.com</span></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Painted tiles in an old building near Allenby Street.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Above and below, eclectic frescoes adorning the side and the entranceway of an apartment building from the 1970s.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A verdant apartment entrance with many potted plants.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">My visit coincided with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanukkah" target="_blank">Hanukkah</a> season. I saw many electric <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Menorah_(Hanukkah)" target="_blank">menorahs</a> on which "candles," now lightbulbs, were lit on successive nights of the festival.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Not a sex shop, as one may expect, but a shop selling sportswear and lingerie.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Brutalist buildings in the Tel Aviv University campus, surrounded by lush palm trees and wide green spaces.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A nice garden of potted cacti and succulent plants on a balcony.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The entranceways of many apartments built before the age of air conditioning had deep, shady overhangs, sheltering a lush assortment of sub-tropical garden plants.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A sure sign of winter in Tel Aviv was the ubiquitous discarded electric heater box. Due to the mild climate, most homes in the city lacked central heating. Ergo, electric heaters were people's best friends in the cold months.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Platform-game-like arrangement of walkway tiles from the Righteous Among the Nations Park near the centre of town. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">To my naive outlook, Tel Aviv seemed like a laid-back city without many concerns. This, of course was far the truth. The city was a liberal island in a sea of centre-to-far-right majority, and Israeli politics were polarised around the personality and decisions of Benjamin Netanyahu.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of my favourite details were these recliner chairs everyone was free to use in Tel Aviv's central Rabin square. In many other cities, they would have been stolen, or vandalised.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">There were many cats, but they appeared skinnier and more skittish than the <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2013/10/mystic-cat-device-and-istanbuls-diy-cat.html?view=magazine" target="_blank">cats I was used to in Istanbul</a>.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A movers' sign and a bottle of "orphan plants" put up for adoption.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The backyards of some apartment blocks were veritable botanic gardens. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I counted five kinds of trees in this small space alone.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A city pigeon, <i>Columba livia domestica</i>, accompanied by a wily myna, <i>Acridotheres tristis</i>, as it searches for food.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mynas are smart opportunists that are rapidly adapting to urban environments around the world. I had <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2016/03/the-great-australian-critter-quest.html" target="_blank">previously encountered them</a> all the way in Sydney, Australia.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Strange wood-cut busts of a woman and an ape in an old storefront.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Just imagine... A childhood spent in magical forests tucked away among apartment blocks like this would be full of discovery and adventure.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A customer waits for humus at the <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293984-d2589940-Reviews-Humus_Hakarmel-Tel_Aviv_Tel_Aviv_District.html" target="_blank">Humus Hakarmel</a> restaurant, converted from a disused synagogue at the Carmel Market district.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rampant mother-of-thousands plants, <i>Bryophyllum sp</i>., growing wild around an air conditioner on an old office block.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Driven by rising real-estate prices, a large spurt of new construction and urban renewal had impacted Tel Aviv, and more was on the way. I felt that many of the old details I had captured during my visit would not exist in a decade or so.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoqrNi2fElTyeZ2UUoGJdg6SH7RPok0mgSem2vpUyZyuklk1_CdoV86VZDIe7yfF-Qw8dwaSIQGUZkbxY3DSfSyky-joZTSBxKcy7OBNYzaoAOIDHCe7kx0hOIjIavOlUc0OK7lDWWicI/s1600/IMG_0956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoqrNi2fElTyeZ2UUoGJdg6SH7RPok0mgSem2vpUyZyuklk1_CdoV86VZDIe7yfF-Qw8dwaSIQGUZkbxY3DSfSyky-joZTSBxKcy7OBNYzaoAOIDHCe7kx0hOIjIavOlUc0OK7lDWWicI/s640/IMG_0956.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Faded lingerie posters in old store displays.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of the many "sell-anything" shops in Southern Tel Aviv.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Above and below, details from the entranceway of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irgun" target="_blank">Irgun</a> Museum.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A cheerful little balcony behind an old apartment. Real estate prices and rents in Tel Aviv were through the roof; professionals, students and young people from all around Israel were flocking here for a breath of its non-religious, liberal atmosphere.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The beautiful, attenuated cone of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycad" target="_blank">cycad</a> plant.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some sort of <i>Monstera </i>plant, spilling out of its pot and on to the sidewalks. Many "indoor" plants grew rampant and reached enormous sizes in Tel Aviv's hot and humid climate.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A storm had blown apart the slats of this old shutter in a deranged angle, no one had noticed because the window was walled-over.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Old houses left among developing skyscrapers near Allenby Street.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">I kept seeing obscene shapes in the many fig (<i>Ficus sp</i>.) trees that lined important avenues.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This photo and the four pictures below show details from the Gan Ha'ir Shopping Mall in central Tel Aviv. In contrast to the modern, air-conditioned malls that were built in the last decade, the Gan Ha'ir had a homely, accessible and nostalgic atmosphere.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of the more memorable trees in Tel Aviv, the olive tree planted in memory of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yitzhak_Rabin" target="_blank">Yitzhak Rabin</a>.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">I couldn't help guessing what the interior of this gaudy, plant-and-fake-flamingo-riddled doorway concealed.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSJzf432xE40rf4ANbQyHDofMVDbHFaiadcZ8o8W8wKkoCYbYyyPB90hyvIarc4V-mbZU6rG66SRlAHSrOWxTBh3FEqWOmsw_u0KRJ67Y9TMcgEWhxNOnbcXYhxhPq1doY9-RrtzgGgU/s1600/IMG_9573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSJzf432xE40rf4ANbQyHDofMVDbHFaiadcZ8o8W8wKkoCYbYyyPB90hyvIarc4V-mbZU6rG66SRlAHSrOWxTBh3FEqWOmsw_u0KRJ67Y9TMcgEWhxNOnbcXYhxhPq1doY9-RrtzgGgU/s640/IMG_9573.JPG" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An old door near the Carmel Market neighbourhood.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Above and below: Elegant, if unkempt apartments from the 1960s.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">These lit-up address signs were as characteristic of Tel Aviv as <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com/2014/01/sign-painting-in-turkey-from-archives.html" target="_blank">painted doorway signs</a> were of Istanbul.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An old one-storey Bauhaus home, possibly slated for demolition.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In evenings, living rooms full of well-stocked libraries glowed from windows around well-off streets. I really admired the local custom of openly displaying the insides of homes to the street. Tightly-shut curtains always invoked in me images of homes full of cowards, prudes with stupid privacy taboos, a lack of the rule of law, or a combination of them all. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me and a friend saw this small apartment with Israeli and Turkish flags hanging side-by-side in the hip, young (and gentrified and overpriced) neighbourhood of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florentin,_Tel_Aviv" target="_blank">Florentin</a>. The lights were on, there seemed to be a party going on inside. I was happy to see the flags of both countries together after Turkey's period of animosity towards Israel. We guessed the house may have belonged to a Turkish Jew, or a student from Turkey. We tried to get the attention of the house's occupants by singing the Turkish National Anthem on the street below, but no one came out to greet us.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The entranceway of an old apartment preserved these beautiful hand-painted floor tiles. Years of shuffling visitors had eroded a path through the colourful patterns.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Above and below, two more details from the Florentin area.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidoKBNTc_w8VH7mFqgGI7v86s_csgbrJgXOdkRN26vKlSqJ1fiaNL-wRVuzcl55NTHXG0wLFkUm2ErJpLnQ_MNfT52tD_heyX0e19C-nrdYUMX230e3ZbQxNBd6yHMqtrcsUJMNlC7wuM/s1600/IMG_9798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidoKBNTc_w8VH7mFqgGI7v86s_csgbrJgXOdkRN26vKlSqJ1fiaNL-wRVuzcl55NTHXG0wLFkUm2ErJpLnQ_MNfT52tD_heyX0e19C-nrdYUMX230e3ZbQxNBd6yHMqtrcsUJMNlC7wuM/s640/IMG_9798.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A detail from the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Synagogue_(Tel_Aviv)" target="_blank">Great Synagogue</a> of Tel Aviv.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This humanoid coffee-bean was the strangest, and most vomit-inducing storefront figure I saw in Tel Aviv.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA-qFn6AYILZO3mm7KH_jlRc2nbinltUi0hftFBN-drWIfwTUVjTCY5V00kGfVOFbwJ6F4R6FzQD0CTkDeWcqnvzd6whPbVEZkncHwtEUMQ55pwTEz_Gmjfm7j9jshCYaPWcXuZ8Z96Os/s1600/IMG_9803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA-qFn6AYILZO3mm7KH_jlRc2nbinltUi0hftFBN-drWIfwTUVjTCY5V00kGfVOFbwJ6F4R6FzQD0CTkDeWcqnvzd6whPbVEZkncHwtEUMQ55pwTEz_Gmjfm7j9jshCYaPWcXuZ8Z96Os/s640/IMG_9803.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Truth be told, most mascots and cartoon characters designed in Israel seemed to be a bit creepy. Another example was a pair of rotund cretins that featured on the ad displayed atop this juice booth.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">More tantric fig trees near Rothschild Boulevard.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The half-shuttered windows and protruding balcony on this building made it resemble a cartoon character.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHRKJtkzqpCDNMHXh-_99hsSIRlnmEsSHuOnUl0irezbmk7ivERqXFsxvwdFv0eeEymx39jsALC4O-KUXFhVX9h6G3RVBBED31d_Bz9oWvnMp_M-kXRfXVWrkklYRtL2sYP5OQ9zWKdeM/s1600/IMG_9846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHRKJtkzqpCDNMHXh-_99hsSIRlnmEsSHuOnUl0irezbmk7ivERqXFsxvwdFv0eeEymx39jsALC4O-KUXFhVX9h6G3RVBBED31d_Bz9oWvnMp_M-kXRfXVWrkklYRtL2sYP5OQ9zWKdeM/s640/IMG_9846.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A beautiful, robust agave plant, (<i>Agave americana</i>) among trees and prickly-pear cacti (<i>Opuntia sp</i>.)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some homes, with cozy gardens and parked-in bikes on their curbs, seemed almost idyllic. Here was an embodiment of the casual and healthy, green-yet-urban lifestyle many people yearned for in cities around the world. Of course, all lives seemed more desirable than ours when glimpsed briefly from the outside.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of Tel Aviv's innumerable cafes, sheltering under a burly palm tree. Food, drinks and cafes were a big industry in Tel Aviv.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another "millenial dream home" with parked bikes, a cozy balcony shaded by a pretty, striped awning and an almost coquettishly-revealed glimpsed of a library inside.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Detail from an insane, fractal, hand-made window grill.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">There were dozens of species of palms all around Tel Aviv, and I lacked the botanical wherewithal to identify them. The most magnificent was this blue hesper palm, <i>Brahea armata</i>, which I saw only in the garden plot of an old, small, one-story home.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of Tel Aviv's second-hand bookstores, a bibliophile's treasure-cave.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Cabalistic graffiti on a maintenance building at a park.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A rare, hand-painted apartment sign.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of Rabin Square with the laissez-faire recliner chairs I'd shown before.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Above and below, the enduring affinity between flower pots and cats. The cats each lived near the door of a particular apartment. They jealously guarded their territories from their con-specifics.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ8ebONKiHS-Qq2o3ojxlmqcQ4tieXfgPSnYlwrGoBcYmkRzrG0nMFN0ELPFJJIX3RsK9H9zaiygoJLX-bbSF3aZAXdlth47CvAvnrRAqg9nE_okt2mFIO1nLQiBmi843G2nLcn_EF9ks/s1600/IMG_9976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ8ebONKiHS-Qq2o3ojxlmqcQ4tieXfgPSnYlwrGoBcYmkRzrG0nMFN0ELPFJJIX3RsK9H9zaiygoJLX-bbSF3aZAXdlth47CvAvnrRAqg9nE_okt2mFIO1nLQiBmi843G2nLcn_EF9ks/s640/IMG_9976.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The sawn-off palm tree was a common sight in front of many old apartments. The palm trees grew rapidly and in a decade or two threatened power lines, which was when they were cut down.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSaZU2gmiL9e6EpHlfH5YnynQL0Rf4BTMAn4YUCzY6znung6_xe0FECFK3Ss5bpzAPGWveVxF9P4L2jfsq58LP1-qS6XwpCsJTIzonHvGzmJ7fJs8plL3byvpqhvhImEnlrydxdPOEpYE/s1600/IMG_8780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSaZU2gmiL9e6EpHlfH5YnynQL0Rf4BTMAn4YUCzY6znung6_xe0FECFK3Ss5bpzAPGWveVxF9P4L2jfsq58LP1-qS6XwpCsJTIzonHvGzmJ7fJs8plL3byvpqhvhImEnlrydxdPOEpYE/s640/IMG_8780.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The seven pictures above and below are glimpses from <b>Jaffa,</b> a separate city in the past, but now practically a suburb of Tel Aviv.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Thus ended my strange tour of Tel Aviv. I hope this post has given you a new perspective, not just on Tel Aviv, but to all pedestrian cities with old buildings and mouldering gardens. Looking at such strange details; the bizarre and exotic hiding in the obscure and banal, gives one a new appreciation of their surroundings. Last but not least, the science enthusiast in me was perked by the biological and evolutionary prospects of <b>urban micro-environments</b>. Who knows what potentially speciative acts of hybridisation and adaptation are going on in such undisturbed garden plots? Are the genes of one type of, say, agave plant from one end of Tel Aviv, really the same as one from another quarter? How about those from another city? How many varieties of each "common" plant are there in each city and town, and how diverse are they? (Geneticist friends, if you are looking for a research project, here is your cue. )</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">As always, more questions, and more side-paths to adventure, than answers.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">www.cmkosemen.com</span></a></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>PS:</b> Here are two neat articles on urban speciation: </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">- <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1852758/" target="_blank">The human impact on biological diversity. How species adapt to urban challenges sheds light on evolution and provides clues about conservation</a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">by Philip Hunter </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">- <a href="http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2017/01/01/1606034114.full" target="_blank">Global urban signatures of phenotypic change in animal and plant populations</a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">by Marina Albertia, Cristian Correab, et al.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>PS2:</b> I took all my pictures here, close-ups and wide landscapes, with a<b> CanonG1X</b> camera. I'm not much of a camera-geek, I just carry a camera with me on all times, take pictures of everything and anything, and pick the good ones to display.</span></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-5163420934462961252016-11-02T06:50:00.003-07:002018-02-15T06:24:13.461-08:00The Cat Museum in Kotor, Montenegro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n July 2015, I visited the historic town of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kotor" target="_blank">Kotor</a>, as part of a greater trip of Montenegro. While well-preserved and interesting, I found Kotor to be too much of a tourist town, like Venice; full of aimless-looking Western visitors, crowded restaurants, overpriced food and banal gift shops.</div>
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In the midst of this maelstrom of corniness, one place stood out like an oasis in a desert. It was this quiet little building next to a local library. A sign announced it to be the "<i>Cats Museum</i>" of Kotor. </div>
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Intrigued, we got tickets and got in. It was worth every penny (or every Euro-cent.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUEcnGc-fyQ_-D0WjVW__M11ZDuMdlr5InbN-7s6eHT_1flHLjs0HLGmFOxyjdY7yzRQ2S4kVwDx5rmKogt5hTApAPstgcUcqN0jZOwDT3MuhbEhgmFMeUqlgYQTkPHR72nZyZUP6pvi4/s1600/km03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUEcnGc-fyQ_-D0WjVW__M11ZDuMdlr5InbN-7s6eHT_1flHLjs0HLGmFOxyjdY7yzRQ2S4kVwDx5rmKogt5hTApAPstgcUcqN0jZOwDT3MuhbEhgmFMeUqlgYQTkPHR72nZyZUP6pvi4/s640/km03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Derived from the historic collection of a local duchess, the museum was devoted to cat-related memorabilia, mostly in the form of historic postcards. I realised that contemporary society's infatuation with cute cats was nothing new - the fad was popular in different cultures for centuries. In several small rooms, wall upon wall was decorated with hundreds of cat-themed artefacts, all arranged in meticulous detail.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioP0zjsjf86kTnshIArn4tllZq-av9mNEERERT390jdc900NSwDu9DGUFr8RVZ0WPd_BdI4U7beEXaYc3SAZizw7q3bSfgag8XyOHMJW-LRbGkc1PzHizs5qQ0NVZIvHqKYrSjXBYiqUo/s1600/km04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioP0zjsjf86kTnshIArn4tllZq-av9mNEERERT390jdc900NSwDu9DGUFr8RVZ0WPd_BdI4U7beEXaYc3SAZizw7q3bSfgag8XyOHMJW-LRbGkc1PzHizs5qQ0NVZIvHqKYrSjXBYiqUo/s640/km04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTqqJucu6rW4ao3_PB7Is8aFAQ_QJEnKiOVH1X6YhxBcbNo1EDDZdobBGwRSZy2JPvEqMrwHhrks1HjIyAHMExuy69zqAY3b93KQ84oAkfzneV1pBEZ5xEQ8zS2UNjFe05YQIiPSS_6Mg/s1600/km05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTqqJucu6rW4ao3_PB7Is8aFAQ_QJEnKiOVH1X6YhxBcbNo1EDDZdobBGwRSZy2JPvEqMrwHhrks1HjIyAHMExuy69zqAY3b93KQ84oAkfzneV1pBEZ5xEQ8zS2UNjFe05YQIiPSS_6Mg/s640/km05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These two cards accompanied the visitors with explanations of the exhibit in English. You can view them in full-size to read the text. I tried to take pictures of every item in the museum that I found interesting, resulting in the following selection:</div>
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This was one of the oldest items on display, an old German encyclopaedia with an woodcut of a cat.</div>
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Another old woodcut, with a poem and a humorous illustration of a grumpy cat. I guessed that the caption "<i>MOMUS,</i>" seen in the centre, was the cat's name.</div>
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Some pieces in the collection were from, or about Turkey, which occupied a part of Montenegro until the eighteenth century. In this woodcut, a janissary officer fed a perfectly nefarious cat that resembled a ball of hair with a monkey's face.</div>
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A more recent Turkish artefact depicted a baby playing with a cat. This colour print, from the final years of the Ottoman Empire, was an example of the beautiful and much-underrated illustrative talent in the Ottoman popular press.</div>
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Another Ottoman souvenir, from <a href="http://www.sephardicstudies.org/ottoman_salonica.html" target="_blank">turn-of-century Salonica</a>, showed a vendor of sheep's livers, lungs and hearts, being watched eagerly by a feline companion. <i>"To watch one as a cat watches a piece of liver," </i>is a popular expression in Turkish, still used today to describe leering people.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vFWvxfVjEBwcFwLlu9Z62nDAI-pgrRRKpZOIvB0e_wHCBGksrx4NBQ_wwPDG1XYAyTDQzLCrkW1ssZJoa3DdvciGhG6uwmdFvXO9eQ5AmtIdQ3Euhxc-VPWkr9OMc2fL_t-DiL-SUEw/s1600/km26.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vFWvxfVjEBwcFwLlu9Z62nDAI-pgrRRKpZOIvB0e_wHCBGksrx4NBQ_wwPDG1XYAyTDQzLCrkW1ssZJoa3DdvciGhG6uwmdFvXO9eQ5AmtIdQ3Euhxc-VPWkr9OMc2fL_t-DiL-SUEw/s640/km26.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The museum had more feline postcards from non-Western cultures. The section on Japan featured dozens of illustrated postcards such as this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjydMiaZEMTp5qvgrfRuoIv1g7UGfh7dMn5oSlQrUuvD04rjtT3OXimZnjDHMxBgbNGYQqkON9VUbG49DftI0_3EauXxx1S777ceMswuwKTq7AeZCSUTMm3avV_9soVo06dCmEDBPVuo-k/s1600/km22.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjydMiaZEMTp5qvgrfRuoIv1g7UGfh7dMn5oSlQrUuvD04rjtT3OXimZnjDHMxBgbNGYQqkON9VUbG49DftI0_3EauXxx1S777ceMswuwKTq7AeZCSUTMm3avV_9soVo06dCmEDBPVuo-k/s640/km22.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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More Japanese cat-love, in the form of a hand-coloured photograph, featuring a geisha and her orange "<a href="http://japan-magazine.jnto.go.jp/en/1408_cat.html" target="_blank">neko</a>."</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2FP-qt-o98yzmzZPHf-_lrFIOtUTnxsQdu5n43B2ctW8poQoFWWBZy7IOmrEmm2eyHoN_vLzOy5j71SM3enql13Clh6nDXaRmKn29nvra_1CGzcLrlhvgFRYSTchT-hCv_R5_sGPKTao/s1600/km18.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2FP-qt-o98yzmzZPHf-_lrFIOtUTnxsQdu5n43B2ctW8poQoFWWBZy7IOmrEmm2eyHoN_vLzOy5j71SM3enql13Clh6nDXaRmKn29nvra_1CGzcLrlhvgFRYSTchT-hCv_R5_sGPKTao/s640/km18.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another geisha and her cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyhN9pv3XKMivUCYZQ6Jv81lvXbfUQtTxmkApVYk7UjHMW84SarT7Co8pS5oRKpuJ8hde_oJyhyphenhyphenFu2lvwnxjORAxPLzgIlLV-y7FoZ4hGhJguVODZfKYE7iGzcJx3kbLy6mb2EIHRVn4/s1600/km42.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyhN9pv3XKMivUCYZQ6Jv81lvXbfUQtTxmkApVYk7UjHMW84SarT7Co8pS5oRKpuJ8hde_oJyhyphenhyphenFu2lvwnxjORAxPLzgIlLV-y7FoZ4hGhJguVODZfKYE7iGzcJx3kbLy6mb2EIHRVn4/s640/km42.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We moved on to the largest part of the museum, which was devoted to European postcards. Here, a black cat featured almost as an afterthought to the portrait of an art-nouveau beauty.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOV9VJ4-iMpfOsJnw9xplouzSPHHt5qqO1B1gQ_MXhg00fh3ic44V5zkF6ORzJr_NvgCzUgnE8Sammbg8zCwsb0lBOEIEuFdGwQKuL1mUE727tAwzaiRE74yR-RUAAbbrcwA2Yb5lP3WU/s1600/km13.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOV9VJ4-iMpfOsJnw9xplouzSPHHt5qqO1B1gQ_MXhg00fh3ic44V5zkF6ORzJr_NvgCzUgnE8Sammbg8zCwsb0lBOEIEuFdGwQKuL1mUE727tAwzaiRE74yR-RUAAbbrcwA2Yb5lP3WU/s640/km13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A German girl with two chunky kittens.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7DPiIaQxdkI3-mSJK9EWhWrGwAD0MbqXjxw0h-MIAOiMfOMoE0atRNgfurCNkaG_h6_xMx_ExMT38BN2I-FRmYeIWMBJaQm6NsJE3TWg9LnSEJYCFkGbUkd-BBJP1GLDS1f3C0YKgx8/s1600/km12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7DPiIaQxdkI3-mSJK9EWhWrGwAD0MbqXjxw0h-MIAOiMfOMoE0atRNgfurCNkaG_h6_xMx_ExMT38BN2I-FRmYeIWMBJaQm6NsJE3TWg9LnSEJYCFkGbUkd-BBJP1GLDS1f3C0YKgx8/s640/km12.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Another lady with a kitten.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ox90-rhb1Vo2U-OwDJ-ztLBSr0AMtkmFAp9jNcAUlBa_hWVZHkypk5_dXzs7oRkpCI-xkc7zLuFTKcRTfQqg0Q7Xb1AS6n12cStRq_v-9d_x7JAAGCV41EECPjFDI92n6cac3Q-HYeY/s1600/km06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ox90-rhb1Vo2U-OwDJ-ztLBSr0AMtkmFAp9jNcAUlBa_hWVZHkypk5_dXzs7oRkpCI-xkc7zLuFTKcRTfQqg0Q7Xb1AS6n12cStRq_v-9d_x7JAAGCV41EECPjFDI92n6cac3Q-HYeY/s640/km06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There was a whole genre of "cats & ladies" themed postcards such as these.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2yDgUl_7qnOhpGFU2wuzrLh1PtK9AVo8IjmhBby0JNuxIA8l2gTL-Yhaci9xWDdizAbbeRXUHjB8HsfFl9IdlUHoKnqtkv0PpvL8SnvMTDZLgw7_9ojTeeAj6mOn3V-JieP6zXoOrJ6k/s1600/km45.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2yDgUl_7qnOhpGFU2wuzrLh1PtK9AVo8IjmhBby0JNuxIA8l2gTL-Yhaci9xWDdizAbbeRXUHjB8HsfFl9IdlUHoKnqtkv0PpvL8SnvMTDZLgw7_9ojTeeAj6mOn3V-JieP6zXoOrJ6k/s640/km45.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Some illustrated cards were quite bizarre. Here, two anthropomorphic kittens were having a ride in a carriage pulled by... two more kittens?! What kind of strange world could have begat this scene? Were the carriage-kittens a different species, perhaps not as intelligent as the man-kittens? Or were they slaves? Or, was it some kind of day-job? They all looked very happy, so I did't think the carriage-kittens were slaves.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQII-uVVvxZmVgw4mlDeowuy3WxGE3aH9T8HZXDXJU1OGiujnAGHe6A9_IuPHCPxmqHtzytkKs1an7rOFGlj8JStCUgijbhWTRP7_CBn1GlfgUa0PofEbmhJwmmOZnmvE2msGQlW_otaA/s1600/km43b.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQII-uVVvxZmVgw4mlDeowuy3WxGE3aH9T8HZXDXJU1OGiujnAGHe6A9_IuPHCPxmqHtzytkKs1an7rOFGlj8JStCUgijbhWTRP7_CBn1GlfgUa0PofEbmhJwmmOZnmvE2msGQlW_otaA/s640/km43b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Another interesting series was this brightly-coloured selection of German cards, depicting different wild and domestic cats. This was a "black house cat."</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLEz6l1knCKzLXCZaATEEvfiK0lGAt4_0_2fVnMlMNeY9RMdsPSePDVPUY7_m56gem9wBcr_ndAa4VyC0GHkLhk5na6YPJMRbcAZifGOfePOBJJ_utP7_5NpAHW7Ix2kpnMDhBnmWaE50/s1600/km41.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLEz6l1knCKzLXCZaATEEvfiK0lGAt4_0_2fVnMlMNeY9RMdsPSePDVPUY7_m56gem9wBcr_ndAa4VyC0GHkLhk5na6YPJMRbcAZifGOfePOBJJ_utP7_5NpAHW7Ix2kpnMDhBnmWaE50/s640/km41.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A regular house cat...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzekNY1eg_OlPv6FGGMAtI9cJ4eSlMnRsUloD-H3keGk9dVNK_D43k948ka204ySXhXEsSfea0T9Hu7f1ThHkPp98hr8PXgU6uq5gk5tmm5yQGSZTnvu9R3G3bl_7KWmDwYSnNPn8fE0g/s1600/km40.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzekNY1eg_OlPv6FGGMAtI9cJ4eSlMnRsUloD-H3keGk9dVNK_D43k948ka204ySXhXEsSfea0T9Hu7f1ThHkPp98hr8PXgU6uq5gk5tmm5yQGSZTnvu9R3G3bl_7KWmDwYSnNPn8fE0g/s640/km40.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
...and a rarer kind, a "Lybian cat," labeled <i>Felis orcreata</i>. Today, these animals were classified as a sub-species of the wild cat, <i>Felis silvestris</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgd1GJ-SnKxIkqNVrKeXJD50CSc4iAmwlW_WVkOP0AJSbY4qc32SnSFCoUGMfPE8KDcz5F96rWI-0WwVj8PkXHtvW3l-Xl9LCCh173_yBqMoDQZt7ebdTx15JlhCbB5K5JKXvL7TWVJEc/s1600/km36.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgd1GJ-SnKxIkqNVrKeXJD50CSc4iAmwlW_WVkOP0AJSbY4qc32SnSFCoUGMfPE8KDcz5F96rWI-0WwVj8PkXHtvW3l-Xl9LCCh173_yBqMoDQZt7ebdTx15JlhCbB5K5JKXvL7TWVJEc/s640/km36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another strange fantasy collage, featuring a wooden carp, overlooked by a kitten wearing a silly paper cap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPBZP_GVts_teNzBfxtN7T45sNkUzZUGctkKXD7wvaD1aXcUjdIiRTzsK5vAMMXWaiWkQkyXL16L4iCs-qtmX1ptIG1NVa0McTBvDX2-gMmzbmD7atdFhUUl_VTKMdilGAWRH-wXo5Fs/s1600/km43.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPBZP_GVts_teNzBfxtN7T45sNkUzZUGctkKXD7wvaD1aXcUjdIiRTzsK5vAMMXWaiWkQkyXL16L4iCs-qtmX1ptIG1NVa0McTBvDX2-gMmzbmD7atdFhUUl_VTKMdilGAWRH-wXo5Fs/s640/km43.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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On a German postcard, an uncanny feline minstrel sang; "<i>O fair moon, you pass so quietly.</i>"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8A4g5OrR-3u07vwJ7nm73yv5PyflAVPaPW8aUNZawjQPH281_mH14lMmdTYxl8QNif2IxxrRkAh_jUuqh-zYS1n2PItwefulz4NaByUmLNSsrFvhx2_N3EObaxd45xGOaWTqNBwV1FK4/s1600/km29.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8A4g5OrR-3u07vwJ7nm73yv5PyflAVPaPW8aUNZawjQPH281_mH14lMmdTYxl8QNif2IxxrRkAh_jUuqh-zYS1n2PItwefulz4NaByUmLNSsrFvhx2_N3EObaxd45xGOaWTqNBwV1FK4/s640/km29.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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There were a lot of strange French New Years' cards. Here, two cats were building (and adoring) a strangely humanoid snowman, a dead ringer for the infamous "moon face" emoji of the mobile smartphone-era.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtr_kGYh2LrNZUzxfgpRW6ROQBB0j3-leh8k_dRfXPPuE49z97O8OQkzOHIrW0pyJYe0BV_sAMXrqyd8g2lwFA_J8xRg45wdimcxJOjb8BPQpueVtPc1P2J7KVUhZ1jgQSB-uyDFCjP4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-11-02+at+15.43.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMtr_kGYh2LrNZUzxfgpRW6ROQBB0j3-leh8k_dRfXPPuE49z97O8OQkzOHIrW0pyJYe0BV_sAMXrqyd8g2lwFA_J8xRg45wdimcxJOjb8BPQpueVtPc1P2J7KVUhZ1jgQSB-uyDFCjP4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-11-02+at+15.43.06.png" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV5478YIxLl2B38fncAH1PhCP55fsdItpL4sLQEAOz2819xt4GrUciNBJUe3LRTfFZpzAuEIsc26tzu5Mi1XZlS_FhhZ52Yf8KfHLP5s-JEsdu4PlMdU88d7ZBysHHiDq0kn-Tu7u0alY/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-11-02+at+15.43.06s.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV5478YIxLl2B38fncAH1PhCP55fsdItpL4sLQEAOz2819xt4GrUciNBJUe3LRTfFZpzAuEIsc26tzu5Mi1XZlS_FhhZ52Yf8KfHLP5s-JEsdu4PlMdU88d7ZBysHHiDq0kn-Tu7u0alY/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-11-02+at+15.43.06s.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Why were the cats trying to build a snow <i>man</i>? Shouldn't they be building a snow <i>cat </i>instead? Was this ersatz-snowman some sort of different, living being? Perhaps I shouldn't have applied too much logic to these puerile, turn-of-the-century fantasy worlds.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC3jm7vJHjO0Ou-Ev6pztevVXFIMfoVcY_m3B4dlrpBdskkMqyUndPEhPHMq05If6ziRhzRossJBqRQmaqXUgqo5b9a6m09ekNme0qXVWrWcC1jqWg1zW_JHWZO19u-CyBYk5ptKMx4KU/s1600/km21.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC3jm7vJHjO0Ou-Ev6pztevVXFIMfoVcY_m3B4dlrpBdskkMqyUndPEhPHMq05If6ziRhzRossJBqRQmaqXUgqo5b9a6m09ekNme0qXVWrWcC1jqWg1zW_JHWZO19u-CyBYk5ptKMx4KU/s640/km21.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another perplexing French fantasy featured the face of a woman pasted onto the body of an obese black cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNgFTjEA8xvHB2uCp3rr-Wx4D7ejGLeQVbZwxK3sm3EREhF-XFD8jdzPh4zfGRqoLrhQLRtXxzZSlcaT57dITnNkku69BVPpj2wmUzvUzjXu6JVejQ_cAVU0fINrJME67aRuTYszvpVRI/s1600/km19.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNgFTjEA8xvHB2uCp3rr-Wx4D7ejGLeQVbZwxK3sm3EREhF-XFD8jdzPh4zfGRqoLrhQLRtXxzZSlcaT57dITnNkku69BVPpj2wmUzvUzjXu6JVejQ_cAVU0fINrJME67aRuTYszvpVRI/s640/km19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Two lovers were watching the sunset in a less-puzzling example of anthropomorphism.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FBt1lIfU3_gpSZ8JXyVVFyFR2hgZGBpepYjosu0CHxfEkESdTOXpQzSB2OGu83zAKvMnn7g3jpEa56LU2-5qgBepXSUnIByY3EJxhtLwpYa7C4VBW3OGFuoxSCrnULABeTRyHn6KALg/s1600/km15.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FBt1lIfU3_gpSZ8JXyVVFyFR2hgZGBpepYjosu0CHxfEkESdTOXpQzSB2OGu83zAKvMnn7g3jpEa56LU2-5qgBepXSUnIByY3EJxhtLwpYa7C4VBW3OGFuoxSCrnULABeTRyHn6KALg/s640/km15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Have a joyful Christmas - with these strange, slant-eyed cats with rabbit hands!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAaz3BhMyRibhtAnG784R3brJivhMxI6Jfg0QLVltfy9kpzTL6_NHTxb8IrehhK7tyDt_ZyyVhNw2Nagp5KFzXfNFfQ_aoI-7MfrfBmlDaQ5nE5m8ojampQW0Bx8voMHu0X3wVl1zK4g/s1600/km08.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAaz3BhMyRibhtAnG784R3brJivhMxI6Jfg0QLVltfy9kpzTL6_NHTxb8IrehhK7tyDt_ZyyVhNw2Nagp5KFzXfNFfQ_aoI-7MfrfBmlDaQ5nE5m8ojampQW0Bx8voMHu0X3wVl1zK4g/s640/km08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A beautiful, hand-illustrated card with a blue cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEick4cKIg04OEnuQx7zvZVv4MuszbCs4RIMH3htDhEcape9xgCLUWDQWyQRwghpiuEacwrk0ahJ1uZcdQaX4s4lfBFKJFRjyFo48TDRMxGYhyIju8ZbSZjOI9C37hUbiQsKj4AIbpyGI6o/s1600/km07.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEick4cKIg04OEnuQx7zvZVv4MuszbCs4RIMH3htDhEcape9xgCLUWDQWyQRwghpiuEacwrk0ahJ1uZcdQaX4s4lfBFKJFRjyFo48TDRMxGYhyIju8ZbSZjOI9C37hUbiQsKj4AIbpyGI6o/s640/km07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A more "vanilla" cat card from the early 1900s.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjkjqC8RWa8D-pyNLwnBTUtlrHzVL1Py3HrXYI1pf0eweCYW5cMNx3BE1FWKiuB-oEw0Q2CVacjXt35Z7CoddRHxvsUTILFYK79FQPYFbuIqfuZIMcB_XvcaQkvcOe05f-1IGNc5aX4s/s1600/km64.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjkjqC8RWa8D-pyNLwnBTUtlrHzVL1Py3HrXYI1pf0eweCYW5cMNx3BE1FWKiuB-oEw0Q2CVacjXt35Z7CoddRHxvsUTILFYK79FQPYFbuIqfuZIMcB_XvcaQkvcOe05f-1IGNc5aX4s/s640/km64.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Some European designs had a very cheerful, graphic quality about them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7qYPRaNNgIv06LusRM3geo5r3mWQ9ZDSLW9phAGc76GigCsJ1RI2KrX0ln_tFCmGk8imQHmZxzUMF1Zl0kgwXx0J5EK4yujXcInGeV1CwtLoekJq_xTLSBGNcO3i-FNPAwt2K9s2YP-k/s1600/km39.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7qYPRaNNgIv06LusRM3geo5r3mWQ9ZDSLW9phAGc76GigCsJ1RI2KrX0ln_tFCmGk8imQHmZxzUMF1Zl0kgwXx0J5EK4yujXcInGeV1CwtLoekJq_xTLSBGNcO3i-FNPAwt2K9s2YP-k/s640/km39.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A naive Italian postcard celebrating "a million cats."</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_KH4USfpMvW7MqTQ7yPS0O00UyAlCNGQ8Wsl-vK1IeawOfqZ5jMIdBskXI6A4oqAdCDLxzNG7OxJ8fm52LV2rLvtNfvrsY9CM8Hxq-b3zJ4K6HhuoK7Ek_TlrmEdAdiLfck0nRQYkEM/s1600/km37.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_KH4USfpMvW7MqTQ7yPS0O00UyAlCNGQ8Wsl-vK1IeawOfqZ5jMIdBskXI6A4oqAdCDLxzNG7OxJ8fm52LV2rLvtNfvrsY9CM8Hxq-b3zJ4K6HhuoK7Ek_TlrmEdAdiLfck0nRQYkEM/s640/km37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A nice American card for Halloween. The two cats and the pumpkin looked like the eyes and nose of a clown-figure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJwL-SypqVR0jH2QzKRDI_g0vg7SoZe1B3gBMdBNvUeWH9mEFNrgPOBNokWyr-YppOfpDtcf1JmED-3wu_TWwi1qTwac9gweYQvGMQlM7wJVkKvDivXoHFiyIJ4JuFzsSs699Py3TMZ0/s1600/km35.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJwL-SypqVR0jH2QzKRDI_g0vg7SoZe1B3gBMdBNvUeWH9mEFNrgPOBNokWyr-YppOfpDtcf1JmED-3wu_TWwi1qTwac9gweYQvGMQlM7wJVkKvDivXoHFiyIJ4JuFzsSs699Py3TMZ0/s640/km35.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This hand-painted British card, with its lemon-yellow cat and stylised plants, was masterpiece of naive art.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-cehstxQf1Rweve9Gp5Xd5JIjz7szrNELtwrM89Zbu8i49wStKbTao1-NqSOhs8ZqM8BUajBL2_mTuDXNzOaQ3DIEVYq9_Oze7Ohs4BfHa7shS4otdCeTv34L2_EnEQUiC8A8QbnxSfQ/s1600/km34.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-cehstxQf1Rweve9Gp5Xd5JIjz7szrNELtwrM89Zbu8i49wStKbTao1-NqSOhs8ZqM8BUajBL2_mTuDXNzOaQ3DIEVYq9_Oze7Ohs4BfHa7shS4otdCeTv34L2_EnEQUiC8A8QbnxSfQ/s640/km34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A French card showed swallows abducting, or bringing home, a diminutive and angry black cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Rd7JILyzQ2Qn1YDe2oBAOgccuQ87IGAIB-xBCJlrVAf2PcGSUH_PzSk2QR-3kimA_JKxPiYw9icPWVhIV2q4VmVfhcxKmrIlRi-ToWuZt5zojNV22oE1YQq9pPXPqEc3aIIADQmG690/s1600/km33.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Rd7JILyzQ2Qn1YDe2oBAOgccuQ87IGAIB-xBCJlrVAf2PcGSUH_PzSk2QR-3kimA_JKxPiYw9icPWVhIV2q4VmVfhcxKmrIlRi-ToWuZt5zojNV22oE1YQq9pPXPqEc3aIIADQmG690/s640/km33.jpg" width="422" /></a></div>
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Black cats lent themselves to a lot of stylisation in French postcards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbOW5Nu0en9uUZSn-dJvBpkMSLq90Vv2iJbSjl2ajI8pKGyvn5yoA8gDVxDQxF1KPBeBByRVNMUUKvOYeKmR5yD2SgyTA56CaFiprEbfMDLrmdRH6PgbZyiSLwcMbidKtuI55FdrAZRo/s1600/km28.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbOW5Nu0en9uUZSn-dJvBpkMSLq90Vv2iJbSjl2ajI8pKGyvn5yoA8gDVxDQxF1KPBeBByRVNMUUKvOYeKmR5yD2SgyTA56CaFiprEbfMDLrmdRH6PgbZyiSLwcMbidKtuI55FdrAZRo/s640/km28.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This was the fattest black cat in the museum.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUMwc0_rYU7CHZS5mk-HCnKMazJ3YUt_YPaLLQ0iMWJ11rH_13U9rLTmi1-nLXLcr-hGInXIFH7xDgIsDXTnQSlAn4ixSDbRCZqErV20LShh_4eT1MbGwUCpLDlwEv-vSgn2B8CZrKEIc/s1600/km20.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUMwc0_rYU7CHZS5mk-HCnKMazJ3YUt_YPaLLQ0iMWJ11rH_13U9rLTmi1-nLXLcr-hGInXIFH7xDgIsDXTnQSlAn4ixSDbRCZqErV20LShh_4eT1MbGwUCpLDlwEv-vSgn2B8CZrKEIc/s640/km20.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another French card, showing a cat on the moon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3IdkInQkNpXVxG4Jh_iA1uNmlgucmk-IUDD_vV8aGSSPqw2qOTYKsY9Xi6QjUPNkMHvdbEGaZQ6Cu5wx9VTX3Zngfquu2Ho4Pz21os2tdaHFCJwQiz-Wbca9mCBo36NUu31CoTJXTGsc/s1600/km16.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3IdkInQkNpXVxG4Jh_iA1uNmlgucmk-IUDD_vV8aGSSPqw2qOTYKsY9Xi6QjUPNkMHvdbEGaZQ6Cu5wx9VTX3Zngfquu2Ho4Pz21os2tdaHFCJwQiz-Wbca9mCBo36NUu31CoTJXTGsc/s640/km16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This French card was from Cannes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAU56zKr9xqvwf4VWn3HxF9KBMOoEl6ZXyfx0xR7tCeKA8qn6MMuClkpZtyLjlern7iKcEmSoOPmkVBnmmc0NPGJLh4peIC-iRePXRt-AS88QPwlrtq-qV6lNkvBZ_DaDAHx2ErQ1AH94/s1600/km14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAU56zKr9xqvwf4VWn3HxF9KBMOoEl6ZXyfx0xR7tCeKA8qn6MMuClkpZtyLjlern7iKcEmSoOPmkVBnmmc0NPGJLh4peIC-iRePXRt-AS88QPwlrtq-qV6lNkvBZ_DaDAHx2ErQ1AH94/s640/km14.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Cats also featured in political themes. This cartoon on the cover of a French magazine satirised that country's political parties in the 1950s.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaUXAN9Xom9iOSIZiaHpR_CMZmlj1rhiKiaXVIZwiwM05LqdbwwWGgoiZ3vJoYjvtZlIRJL3IRhxQlDFuFQZzsEoF_36eDUXsZbDh1Tk11WT8djZ8RJZoR6pn4NHWqsJ8fPCCPzigZyg/s1600/km46.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaUXAN9Xom9iOSIZiaHpR_CMZmlj1rhiKiaXVIZwiwM05LqdbwwWGgoiZ3vJoYjvtZlIRJL3IRhxQlDFuFQZzsEoF_36eDUXsZbDh1Tk11WT8djZ8RJZoR6pn4NHWqsJ8fPCCPzigZyg/s640/km46.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another political cartoon from World War I, showing the "Belgian Mouse" halting the advance of the evil German Cat. This was one of the few items on exhibit that vilified cats.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinVNUi9VFQgEuDQge7kBFT6LnmcErIjgxPb9v1yzg0xozGerWfAz5o3-I95261ZRnqqjT6V01nVzCcmbKHODIeL_GPlTv36WMDZYkQLXD2ZnmqC168dzoE_M_P9RqAL6U0LpqTq_wmfH0/s1600/km38.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinVNUi9VFQgEuDQge7kBFT6LnmcErIjgxPb9v1yzg0xozGerWfAz5o3-I95261ZRnqqjT6V01nVzCcmbKHODIeL_GPlTv36WMDZYkQLXD2ZnmqC168dzoE_M_P9RqAL6U0LpqTq_wmfH0/s640/km38.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another memento from WWI, showing French infantrymen cuddling extremely chubby cats. This photo also reminded me of the mind-numbing horrors these soldiers must have gone through in battle.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNtqREQmuMWGwXrQJx24-Zr9WKfpY7VBTlqo5osLaRphjkZp5yxEHoUEPIWWkvRkmDEY8djNGq_vYU1UtZkOCldEPoItxS6Om9TISO2oJLFc-Z57CBWTY-uMIiZ313nrehRVyzdbKDT0Q/s1600/km48.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNtqREQmuMWGwXrQJx24-Zr9WKfpY7VBTlqo5osLaRphjkZp5yxEHoUEPIWWkvRkmDEY8djNGq_vYU1UtZkOCldEPoItxS6Om9TISO2oJLFc-Z57CBWTY-uMIiZ313nrehRVyzdbKDT0Q/s640/km48.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Some postcards were really strange in reminding us the changing semiology (I hate that word) of symbols over time. Here and below, cats appeared in conjunction with swastika signs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSybNUpN36CGIhL97EX7IT882djJGr1tdSpIwrtj3vj9ABaJDqJ197CEIeld1Iu9PnzrhWR0EuYps42i6HE5yDcO_sE9iYu85cCHLSq9MGblrilqoZcfG2aO-k1eqMKYrcBEJpRbISRA/s1600/km47.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSybNUpN36CGIhL97EX7IT882djJGr1tdSpIwrtj3vj9ABaJDqJ197CEIeld1Iu9PnzrhWR0EuYps42i6HE5yDcO_sE9iYu85cCHLSq9MGblrilqoZcfG2aO-k1eqMKYrcBEJpRbISRA/s640/km47.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Before the Second World War and the rise of Nazism, the swastika was a sign of good fortune, and was used in all sorts of corresponding situations. Prior to the Nazis, the occultist Theosophy society, the Finnish Air Force, various sports teams and even Carlsberg company had adopted the sign as part of their logos.</div>
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A popular urban legend suggested that Hitler consciously reversed the swastika to highlight the evil of his regime, but as we see in these cards, there was no "right" alignment of the symbol, and people used them every which way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhEH0RWb_UGTDuJ457pUufRfVV4ygUFPCX29kOQ2tnUev0zo1BA2T0SmGjmKtbltGzRRZ-X6WYVvAQKJS_cz40OprGFdQO2eqsWHUCw-nSI4UV-tAfIJs_KsOjzctf49_JUK4Dht_FEQ/s1600/km31.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhEH0RWb_UGTDuJ457pUufRfVV4ygUFPCX29kOQ2tnUev0zo1BA2T0SmGjmKtbltGzRRZ-X6WYVvAQKJS_cz40OprGFdQO2eqsWHUCw-nSI4UV-tAfIJs_KsOjzctf49_JUK4Dht_FEQ/s640/km31.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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There was also a section devoted to feline philately. Paraguayan cat stamps peered out from behind one another, as if stalking invisible prey.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxCM1Y4G-rGjsZynDHBt3HpvV_TGNGQCjCSD4JQ2Fvz_qqE1nzC0sSmn0OND0kkrAnxvrwJ7stPpaHsH7e8LCHFBBGiIDqSZUcd4VXPwtDocw_vwpx7lRpZekWpH8mXEg_ILfB4iH2n0/s1600/km30.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxCM1Y4G-rGjsZynDHBt3HpvV_TGNGQCjCSD4JQ2Fvz_qqE1nzC0sSmn0OND0kkrAnxvrwJ7stPpaHsH7e8LCHFBBGiIDqSZUcd4VXPwtDocw_vwpx7lRpZekWpH8mXEg_ILfB4iH2n0/s640/km30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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More cat-stamps from the Philippines and pre-9-11-era Afghanistan.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT41b3aGVi2GbmOCpjCKcrIlhGD6zJB98bWlpiWWd7FPHlsPWqUZSZOonxA8LNMrOgTEKcc5EipmImAhiRMIdk4_bNiOcH2nP0iWnFFP0JTQ7BgjlEB4eU-XJiFP8VQRHtHlNzFum56nk/s1600/km25.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT41b3aGVi2GbmOCpjCKcrIlhGD6zJB98bWlpiWWd7FPHlsPWqUZSZOonxA8LNMrOgTEKcc5EipmImAhiRMIdk4_bNiOcH2nP0iWnFFP0JTQ7BgjlEB4eU-XJiFP8VQRHtHlNzFum56nk/s640/km25.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another section was devoted to film stars and their feline companions. This was <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81gnes_Esterh%C3%A1zy" target="_blank">Agnes Esterhazy</a>, a Hungarian actress of the inter-war era.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyiBjYzsPj681wz3UVnaovIDfxoZhr9_QIYvco1aCL8-gfvv9Pc8dclYDomVYr5I_5q8Cahe7cPibFn-_HXNBTPoS3t0AxZksy0O753_QdajOyi7nl-XAY2F5AbWQ_Ikl8wC-qp06OSI/s1600/km24.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyiBjYzsPj681wz3UVnaovIDfxoZhr9_QIYvco1aCL8-gfvv9Pc8dclYDomVYr5I_5q8Cahe7cPibFn-_HXNBTPoS3t0AxZksy0O753_QdajOyi7nl-XAY2F5AbWQ_Ikl8wC-qp06OSI/s640/km24.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another star of the silent age, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruth_Weyher" target="_blank">Ruth Weyher</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrCIX2-rs33HiLy5V-7MELhQlLwEnIWaWhe5Scy7m5AKzTVYew_NyoE5K5bjvCQcTElYAxQii41z227ZXvMH6cTmLtyG7YQBhAu2Eah64byu3mNpruNt15-1QjrAzJwp3lCiium239-ZA/s1600/km23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrCIX2-rs33HiLy5V-7MELhQlLwEnIWaWhe5Scy7m5AKzTVYew_NyoE5K5bjvCQcTElYAxQii41z227ZXvMH6cTmLtyG7YQBhAu2Eah64byu3mNpruNt15-1QjrAzJwp3lCiium239-ZA/s640/km23.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolores_del_R%C3%ADo" target="_blank">Dolores Del Rio</a>, a Mexican film star. She once co-starred with Elvis. Here, she was co-starring with a terrified-looking black cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRruKCxrChSUs3LIjVdaXxjWWzqjIbq2w09acQMHLOOyivNnrlwgWZISo5Mfypov-Jx5XZCgVSGrl51e14dQ8vGYnW9Y7H1nPt9MrZL_WjoYdIs7tjpaJsY0e__i9nMoUJcw6sA_Xbu00/s1600/km63.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRruKCxrChSUs3LIjVdaXxjWWzqjIbq2w09acQMHLOOyivNnrlwgWZISo5Mfypov-Jx5XZCgVSGrl51e14dQ8vGYnW9Y7H1nPt9MrZL_WjoYdIs7tjpaJsY0e__i9nMoUJcw6sA_Xbu00/s640/km63.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The association between beautiful women and "pussies" ultimately led to its culmination in a set of erotic postcards at the rearmost part of the museum.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbinac1KlW4zKv30JqfvOPxTPxTZxYbeFLluKd3blB_dvI3K6jtTYHiVub2_rwF7Qmavb0R33RN6qB91pAGFfg-v7X9OLyxcu990QUnGe9vLKk3C7PObe5nAtosEHAV5sZza5D9EBiPs/s1600/km62.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbinac1KlW4zKv30JqfvOPxTPxTZxYbeFLluKd3blB_dvI3K6jtTYHiVub2_rwF7Qmavb0R33RN6qB91pAGFfg-v7X9OLyxcu990QUnGe9vLKk3C7PObe5nAtosEHAV5sZza5D9EBiPs/s640/km62.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This nubile beauty was posing with what was possibly the chubbiest cat in Paris.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk4dbKLv_CXX1VKNqElV1RFR5oSmS4rzo2q0kPfpL_95fZILI-igHIfyXxQaYnPfGFq2bIECtBsZyCNcQuypzoLTyFnGAZoc8DOz9-tRBBJ4T_n6w7yijbmmmFKM74wKiipsPYNoo6ZA0/s1600/km61.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk4dbKLv_CXX1VKNqElV1RFR5oSmS4rzo2q0kPfpL_95fZILI-igHIfyXxQaYnPfGFq2bIECtBsZyCNcQuypzoLTyFnGAZoc8DOz9-tRBBJ4T_n6w7yijbmmmFKM74wKiipsPYNoo6ZA0/s640/km61.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another sensual postcard, a bare-breasted beauty with an impish cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSAsM_u-Kv3oxfRaYyXPtoFdMaz-abQNXvlyqBVe_IKQRHrSntHVq2feOdZCkawxp9tWI3RRst-O5BIaTBSljVlthz7pt7H5vzWVEWThaLQPx_z6eo-cv-0iGRh1LugDGbuOqo2iDx4sc/s1600/km60.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSAsM_u-Kv3oxfRaYyXPtoFdMaz-abQNXvlyqBVe_IKQRHrSntHVq2feOdZCkawxp9tWI3RRst-O5BIaTBSljVlthz7pt7H5vzWVEWThaLQPx_z6eo-cv-0iGRh1LugDGbuOqo2iDx4sc/s640/km60.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There were tons of erotic postcards like these. In most cases, the expressions of the cats were more interesting than the women themselves. This cat bore an adorable look of absolute helplessness.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVy2U8RAxofgS3ainAy2oI9IIWfadB_4WkRiz1PrDNmPe-IIiq-YTYzdF_VasYeY2l6XwFLkl5Id5EVISZhfDLGHa8l2FI39603j_NTQLpWomkKJYdEvy_-54TvAf7LuFhveUyn323Ob4/s1600/km59.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVy2U8RAxofgS3ainAy2oI9IIWfadB_4WkRiz1PrDNmPe-IIiq-YTYzdF_VasYeY2l6XwFLkl5Id5EVISZhfDLGHa8l2FI39603j_NTQLpWomkKJYdEvy_-54TvAf7LuFhveUyn323Ob4/s640/km59.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another beautiful woman with a reluctant cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQPkC2AkJPpblCKz58d6Cjx_jXp1_D2pWJQkPhyhg5-XPj8P-Kv_dRdZX5BqkphUOYtLweIJa7YOnNBm6WcD8hezw2G83oAtXrmvQg8GzuSG3OseDTIKZjiSj5-1VXmEyp3E7ZTxekVIA/s1600/km49.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQPkC2AkJPpblCKz58d6Cjx_jXp1_D2pWJQkPhyhg5-XPj8P-Kv_dRdZX5BqkphUOYtLweIJa7YOnNBm6WcD8hezw2G83oAtXrmvQg8GzuSG3OseDTIKZjiSj5-1VXmEyp3E7ZTxekVIA/s640/km49.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The cat in this card was really strange - it looked more like a bad toy (look at those whiskers!) than a real animal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDx5Mn1Qpdg-7UPQAyvZY6oDQ9906GMwYHwzYK56Dze_ae5Vsz7cE5GFCuW1d1PqYVJmn6ZJJVKTkVeeRDOjsImPCJ25oVvVfmENEGY_uQ3r1b8pG9aWX-lPvV5sb_HqjOpluAvLBrfN8/s1600/km65.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDx5Mn1Qpdg-7UPQAyvZY6oDQ9906GMwYHwzYK56Dze_ae5Vsz7cE5GFCuW1d1PqYVJmn6ZJJVKTkVeeRDOjsImPCJ25oVvVfmENEGY_uQ3r1b8pG9aWX-lPvV5sb_HqjOpluAvLBrfN8/s640/km65.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The museum had many more postcards and other items on display, and I strongly recommend any visitors to Kotor to go see it. It may, in fact, be the only relevant point of interest in that much-overrated town.</div>
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<a href="http://catsmuseum.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=83&Itemid=271&lang=en" target="_blank">Here </a>is the museum's website.</div>
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<a href="https://www.google.com.tr/maps/place/Cats+Museum/@42.4249731,18.7703501,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x5012bdbe60273352?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjnh-jpl4rQAhXF2hoKHRUZBgAQ_BIIfzAP" target="_blank">Here</a> is its location on the map.</div>
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Enjoy!</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-10528689010330022832016-06-07T03:48:00.004-07:002022-11-01T23:21:26.887-07:00Three Days on the Lycian Trail<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfa_dbfXFAjCw7F-BuiszKva4tkYD_p5Qf7NloZb8CLaMgEVQ6jT9jUIcXKugqyWSivgpJySuBXwJYfTWzI6K7vLAd3l4Z6blWoLBEz4-sHhapflEhpBhdUfqCvkamRc2RXjATRXAl8f0/s1600/l00p03.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfa_dbfXFAjCw7F-BuiszKva4tkYD_p5Qf7NloZb8CLaMgEVQ6jT9jUIcXKugqyWSivgpJySuBXwJYfTWzI6K7vLAd3l4Z6blWoLBEz4-sHhapflEhpBhdUfqCvkamRc2RXjATRXAl8f0/s640/l00p03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n April 2016, I made plans to hike a section of the <a href="http://cultureroutesinturkey.com/the-lycian-way/" target="_blank">Lycian Trail</a> in south-western Turkey. This part of the country was getting popular among my friends recently, and I too decided to give it a shot.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qLmHHWM1CxYtstvxCqB9mScjHXcKmYZBA0nRYfL-BWNdqqrBxOy82J-Q7KreRoRfTfFacHOyN9kc2ejCbNBUyRefm0tPCx7Flx_Q0amlyudjUKUo-rDqJY7sX9wMCKb3hR3Qm9GAp9s/s1600/l00p01.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qLmHHWM1CxYtstvxCqB9mScjHXcKmYZBA0nRYfL-BWNdqqrBxOy82J-Q7KreRoRfTfFacHOyN9kc2ejCbNBUyRefm0tPCx7Flx_Q0amlyudjUKUo-rDqJY7sX9wMCKb3hR3Qm9GAp9s/s640/l00p01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Of course, I had no long-term hiking experience apart from jogging regularly, and the last time I had stayed in a tent was more than a decade ago. So I organised myself for a "light trekking" trip of four days, traveling without a tent and sleeping gear, walking from town to town and sleeping in motels rather than camping out in the open.<br />
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Thinking myself very smart, I printed out and stapled together these pages from Google Maps, one map-booklet for every day of hiking. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Relying on these maps resulted in a minor disaster, but read on.)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBnpXbYzXzVHulBmEEgnHIOmAFR4OTT3WZ06vLq6aSiZbVM7-6TlLxRQMwXD9I4HTkEZH8lBVbEmqYYRe7qj1UgwAibz9L0l2bVscdUXjxkUQaSfBmaX4eizD1VkTKCTvE6H4VLLFJeM/s1600/l00p04.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBnpXbYzXzVHulBmEEgnHIOmAFR4OTT3WZ06vLq6aSiZbVM7-6TlLxRQMwXD9I4HTkEZH8lBVbEmqYYRe7qj1UgwAibz9L0l2bVscdUXjxkUQaSfBmaX4eizD1VkTKCTvE6H4VLLFJeM/s640/l00p04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I borrowed a <a href="http://www.backcountry.com/the-north-face-terra-35-backpack-2150cu-in" target="_blank">North Face Terra 35 Backpack</a> from one of my friends and packed it with four days' worth of essential clothes, hygiene and medical supplies, blankets and so on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAiXtvkCGv7_3XUbIeE7o56ifnoV7luHEoYMZmnzUVSLp8cvH7JeQZwcSpvOf1Jz2W6qD6ABQafrfokrbXaaBYKH6_t99dgdymOiBPey-GSjrebC4_RDQxLJYuX0ceAayU8HoJ6X9ZY4A/s1600/l00p02.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAiXtvkCGv7_3XUbIeE7o56ifnoV7luHEoYMZmnzUVSLp8cvH7JeQZwcSpvOf1Jz2W6qD6ABQafrfokrbXaaBYKH6_t99dgdymOiBPey-GSjrebC4_RDQxLJYuX0ceAayU8HoJ6X9ZY4A/s640/l00p02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Most of my weight was taken up by food, which came in the form of honey & granola bars, tuna fish and packs of <b>Apikoğlu </b>smoked beef. Of course, I could always buy food & supplies on the go, but I was boyishly excited about this trip and relished its preparation phase: At long last I would be alone and self-sufficient on a journey of discovery and adventure!<br />
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<b>Day One: Göynük</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbTEUQ06wtiX7NBTxQ5HaTAc6DCwkysWhscA_85SiMCx-tXqIGJbBjgRvXzWhclKK55b5ZpZ9xBgT_lKKygLQT142tQOVkPmoiIEwUTm_iORtuyIDaljYIRHFkQtF6lFZFOhKmey-L5M/s1600/l01p01.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbTEUQ06wtiX7NBTxQ5HaTAc6DCwkysWhscA_85SiMCx-tXqIGJbBjgRvXzWhclKK55b5ZpZ9xBgT_lKKygLQT142tQOVkPmoiIEwUTm_iORtuyIDaljYIRHFkQtF6lFZFOhKmey-L5M/s640/l01p01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After carelessly forgetting my packs of Apikoğlu beef in the fridge, I boarded an early <a href="http://www.backcountry.com/the-north-face-terra-35-backpack-2150cu-in" target="_blank">Pegasus Airlines</a> flight to <b>Antalya</b>, that fateful city on Turkey's Mediterranean coast.<br />
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Normally a bustling tourist town, Antalya was now going through rough times after a <a href="http://www.dw.com/en/turkeys-tourist-industry-is-in-crisis/a-18903382" target="_blank">crisis with Russia</a> and <a href="https://skift.com/2016/05/28/turkey-tourism-capsized-by-tensions-as-arrivals-show-record-drop/" target="_blank">terrorist attacks</a> had rendered Turkey a no-go-zone for many international visitors.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpcaTDM2FwR4JUcsGC2rRDcFP2CRJMxz9S0jljq1l8fG_WKM39ysyn8P_W-wcqwXGx53BipIa1RQjVl2svoKpo0NtyHlWuzX6-ddQX2jn6Pj8hylFIwdSuGVcU-_0Ncw9-LBwpLMPSoQ/s1600/l01p02.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpcaTDM2FwR4JUcsGC2rRDcFP2CRJMxz9S0jljq1l8fG_WKM39ysyn8P_W-wcqwXGx53BipIa1RQjVl2svoKpo0NtyHlWuzX6-ddQX2jn6Pj8hylFIwdSuGVcU-_0Ncw9-LBwpLMPSoQ/s640/l01p02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From the airport, I went to the bus terminal and boarded one of these gaudy minibuses that plied the route between different towns along the seashore.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgehazgt5-C2wAIVPAnLe-BZCABNloYo5AJS5p4Ufc8empwg6veNKPN0HqGLbNbGlljm9fn-sCqEcCr9jNnzm8pT3KIuQJQxRx3JJniIt8abjByLNx8rxRLzNuAweFf7_w2ONuF_BizvuA/s1600/l01p03.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgehazgt5-C2wAIVPAnLe-BZCABNloYo5AJS5p4Ufc8empwg6veNKPN0HqGLbNbGlljm9fn-sCqEcCr9jNnzm8pT3KIuQJQxRx3JJniIt8abjByLNx8rxRLzNuAweFf7_w2ONuF_BizvuA/s640/l01p03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I went to <b>Göynük</b>, a dreary tourist town that used to host low-income Russian tourists, now turned drearier with the prospect of a summer without visitors. I stepped off the bus at a highway intersection where a rather grandiose monument exclaiming Göynük as the "<i>tourist capital of the world</i>" stood falling apart in perfect imitation of Turkey's touristic enterprise.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFGumOYDHD70-QlvbtcPbLtt98szXacjJTn2v-hyPtazg-4XCw3-PQK1l6us8_ZtMq9ybo7OH_y-Adqrc3aYeHbeoPEOESh40wX3bqfXxl-KwNYRTxPjcC1S5ySCe9JCeUL9Y4F48bqY/s1600/l01p04.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFGumOYDHD70-QlvbtcPbLtt98szXacjJTn2v-hyPtazg-4XCw3-PQK1l6us8_ZtMq9ybo7OH_y-Adqrc3aYeHbeoPEOESh40wX3bqfXxl-KwNYRTxPjcC1S5ySCe9JCeUL9Y4F48bqY/s640/l01p04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I walked away from the decrepit monument and into Göynük's hinterland, towards a small village and a national park inside a mountain valley. The weather was cool and pleasant, and my spirits were up. My plan was to walk up to the mountain valley, all the way to the highland town of <b><a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/Ovac%C4%B1k,+07980+Ovac%C4%B1k%2FKemer%2FAntalya,+Turkey/@36.6491637,30.2933595,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x14c3cf51e19ba833:0x49d13e28db7fbd06!8m2!3d36.649279!4d30.433444" target="_blank">Ovacık</a></b> and spend the night in a motel there.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLg8Xic_aZ9RgjnNpaT3BMREpzslHmiHs1ayqA5nTcEenl95M2Q3m7_K_xtzDpjY-Y-UaVhexq3fP_3Ci8EtxFKnOea9ou6eHGVYUsvWbiZ7dxF56jZwjAa4qQNrmwNy9_TslGaASeqzE/s1600/l01p05.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLg8Xic_aZ9RgjnNpaT3BMREpzslHmiHs1ayqA5nTcEenl95M2Q3m7_K_xtzDpjY-Y-UaVhexq3fP_3Ci8EtxFKnOea9ou6eHGVYUsvWbiZ7dxF56jZwjAa4qQNrmwNy9_TslGaASeqzE/s640/l01p05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was very happy to be finally <i>out there</i>, walking on my own on an uncertain and generative adventure. But half an hour into my walk, I began to realise the difficulties of trekking without prior practice. My backpack, although "packed light," was feeling too heavy on my shoulders, and my pants were getting stuffy with the rising temperature.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyx8zFtsbj375N3DRKyoTI3FNi6Ztd7DoDk0lD1uCSudzlVI0HHfcg9EGFKCx8NOOUbUlBWP51UVy_oUHvLvRDLQTvb-SNiRyEQc4KC5ByosHuiy-2HaLzPMy_kMy1oRCLHce28W5ddw/s1600/l01p06.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyx8zFtsbj375N3DRKyoTI3FNi6Ztd7DoDk0lD1uCSudzlVI0HHfcg9EGFKCx8NOOUbUlBWP51UVy_oUHvLvRDLQTvb-SNiRyEQc4KC5ByosHuiy-2HaLzPMy_kMy1oRCLHce28W5ddw/s640/l01p06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I came across this quaint garden-restaurant-motel-place named <b>Ali's Garden</b>. I sat down there to lighten my backpack. I put on a pair of shorts I'd brought along just in case, "donated" half of my clothes, one of my blankets and my cumbersome pants to Mr. Ali in exchange of some refreshing tea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0GTXyguo205U_7teUf_3EHULUanCilhNu8JRgh0bpFjTfRDwTSBTOC3-lhiJVZxsOAkno4Zez6zty98Dw-83ynp5x-JO_5B9-6PLgC4fTafGIENWVzpvSBib-096mNhfGAhQafRsGNuU/s1600/l01p07.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0GTXyguo205U_7teUf_3EHULUanCilhNu8JRgh0bpFjTfRDwTSBTOC3-lhiJVZxsOAkno4Zez6zty98Dw-83ynp5x-JO_5B9-6PLgC4fTafGIENWVzpvSBib-096mNhfGAhQafRsGNuU/s640/l01p07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The owner of this strange garden cafe, Mr. Ali, was a unique character in his own right. He had a fluent grasp of German and Russian after living in Germany for years. Mr. Ali used his linguistic skills to position himself as something of a "trail manager," offering refreshments and helpful tips to international visitors who passed through Göynük to walk the Lycian trail every year.<br />
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Mr. Ali was also something of an <b>outsider artist</b>. His garden was full of redundantly-labeled, hand-painted maps and signs in German and Russian, and hordes of grotesquely-sculpted, <b>semi-humanoid calabash gourds</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVxXYVz-fy7-tbW-pSj655YVyiLMkNj608Nltq6M3MyL7eeP2aI4SpyIt9xmoh5djlDTSycE43dyM6e_xMPfRUEp1YVV3EoSxI7Q7ZfeZQYxEBXUwKKC6fGxExD5eXpJU6YkLTpparNGo/s1600/l01p15.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVxXYVz-fy7-tbW-pSj655YVyiLMkNj608Nltq6M3MyL7eeP2aI4SpyIt9xmoh5djlDTSycE43dyM6e_xMPfRUEp1YVV3EoSxI7Q7ZfeZQYxEBXUwKKC6fGxExD5eXpJU6YkLTpparNGo/s640/l01p15.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A <b>nightmarish array of faces </b>were visible in Mr. Ali's gourds. I was vexed by how he had managed to modify the plants into such shapes. His method, it turned out, was as gritty as the sculptures themselves. Mr. Ali got hold of empty, transparent plastic bottles from the garbage and sculpted them into his desired forms by heating them on a fire. He introduced nascent gourds into the bottle-moulds, and the plants conformed to their shape as they grew. Mr. Ali then cut open the bottles, harvested the gourds and dried them in the sun to give them their final forms.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEy7ho7z7U_GmkRcx0VZG_oA_dOvgv_up2ARjgiSeQa_ONBy2WY-EGMQ6o1i0pYCdwjJH3cF9YQ_wIc01kqzoo7ra_vOAl_CCdiLSbUdcGiN-eDuNLS-z7P5A7WMUbQguHzrVMaSGvXU/s1600/l01p14.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEy7ho7z7U_GmkRcx0VZG_oA_dOvgv_up2ARjgiSeQa_ONBy2WY-EGMQ6o1i0pYCdwjJH3cF9YQ_wIc01kqzoo7ra_vOAl_CCdiLSbUdcGiN-eDuNLS-z7P5A7WMUbQguHzrVMaSGvXU/s640/l01p14.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The massed formation of gourd-faces, staring at viewers from every corner of the garden, made for a bizarre and more than a little off-putting <b>freak-show of vegetable portraits.</b> Some were likenesses of world leaders and other historical figures. "Putin" was visible here on the right.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-C4_ONWX8UisJKN6zb3y267uriObr2m86sYd-MAFnvB8cPHdybMkgxOJTSZnGC4H1Tbbl_WdfgZUzGBTTCswTADBMPhGeh_tQz6HTFegYj0jl-KNtJls-MBJcqB3jh852bAKe2ZaExjk/s1600/l01p13.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-C4_ONWX8UisJKN6zb3y267uriObr2m86sYd-MAFnvB8cPHdybMkgxOJTSZnGC4H1Tbbl_WdfgZUzGBTTCswTADBMPhGeh_tQz6HTFegYj0jl-KNtJls-MBJcqB3jh852bAKe2ZaExjk/s640/l01p13.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another portrait, perhaps of Turkey's president Tayyip Erdogan.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtFbIDohz4J37xJNX3T_p0GqbZ6nd1BaT7M42EH91cdq98NeIlbd4KmSZov-Ol_xpOPU7E-yBwVRK48eabLtQZ6F9yPm0ENpWfUKOHuvVXHmgNku6UXsc2hX5V4MZQTxQci5M4sIVKz4/s1600/l01p12.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtFbIDohz4J37xJNX3T_p0GqbZ6nd1BaT7M42EH91cdq98NeIlbd4KmSZov-Ol_xpOPU7E-yBwVRK48eabLtQZ6F9yPm0ENpWfUKOHuvVXHmgNku6UXsc2hX5V4MZQTxQci5M4sIVKz4/s640/l01p12.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A disturbingly embryonic form was a likeness of the "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mother_goddess" target="_blank">mother goddess</a>" figures known from prehistoric Anatolia.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfxXWC_LrnYgDDnm12UJjifEi7b_wn5z4NgRBZNRPwxD99eQCiirOLQEyHBBaU2in5g9wdylUqJZrUwrF-8sr8AscW82cFnDixfLmUdOSgRAAGorbEAIn98X3teQYxn5XEXAFfCGA_yZA/s1600/l01p11.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfxXWC_LrnYgDDnm12UJjifEi7b_wn5z4NgRBZNRPwxD99eQCiirOLQEyHBBaU2in5g9wdylUqJZrUwrF-8sr8AscW82cFnDixfLmUdOSgRAAGorbEAIn98X3teQYxn5XEXAFfCGA_yZA/s640/l01p11.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The vegetable portrait of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIETmVNdPQnlPYYFoU8NK35adkQmwS4R57KIL8fLdGNsKwaHk8W_sEhylwMd_R3GjVWJIkzHt9uJvn4SZfkcqq_1d87csYKEAlzTGef3WKaHimpdbluIEqZ3FahbnXNDdSNphM7ncxbI/s1600/l01p10.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIETmVNdPQnlPYYFoU8NK35adkQmwS4R57KIL8fLdGNsKwaHk8W_sEhylwMd_R3GjVWJIkzHt9uJvn4SZfkcqq_1d87csYKEAlzTGef3WKaHimpdbluIEqZ3FahbnXNDdSNphM7ncxbI/s640/l01p10.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The madness intensified as I dwelled deeper into Mr. Ali's garden. Large, multi-gourd assemblages (with a separate gourd for every limb), portrayed sexualised likenesses Hitler and Jesus, and a hydrocephalic Vladimir Putin. These sculptures may well have come from a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jake_and_Dinos_Chapman" target="_blank">Jake and Dinos Chapman</a> exhibit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZUpcfmjsElpij9T4CZCT08ljbyC4QKyyzuULMVQ5TuL4aOMIejUC6RU-S5nQP6i8tW4T6cY0l5NeW27HPWUBCj6cT4xJHl5HbaWZ_hQM6O1GD8wcvUKgRi9ZuRQPuzffy86tTDFeJJA/s1600/l01p18.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZUpcfmjsElpij9T4CZCT08ljbyC4QKyyzuULMVQ5TuL4aOMIejUC6RU-S5nQP6i8tW4T6cY0l5NeW27HPWUBCj6cT4xJHl5HbaWZ_hQM6O1GD8wcvUKgRi9ZuRQPuzffy86tTDFeJJA/s640/l01p18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A close-up of Mr. Ali's Hitler figure. The strange German comment scribbled on its chest; <i>"We love him NOT for art, but what he is made out of,"</i> had a weird undertone of admiration for the bygone tyrant.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdiBgLd9RegJwhnyqZlbLnyGX2dBcyfPHNcx7lXw8B5K-LBb-b9l3Mqz4GYM6bt8H2EXORW6TA4p6KXrq_zzrf-JamVXAX8dINEEES9AaP-6HN7opgj7Ldnpvh8unuO94sWBNBJCQ_n0/s1600/l01p09.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdiBgLd9RegJwhnyqZlbLnyGX2dBcyfPHNcx7lXw8B5K-LBb-b9l3Mqz4GYM6bt8H2EXORW6TA4p6KXrq_zzrf-JamVXAX8dINEEES9AaP-6HN7opgj7Ldnpvh8unuO94sWBNBJCQ_n0/s640/l01p09.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Another strangely feminine Jesus figure, made out of multiple gourds linked together by wood glue and iron wire. I felt like puking after finding out that Jesus' head, chest and pubic hair were made out of actual human hair Mr. Ali had collected from a hairdresser's, and glued onto the figure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2MaOEWZn1sQKu8GvAGYX2UmHCiHYCaDeLU8u_ieonYLZnzFBasgJ-1bS5oRt7NkFSGaS-ivgzJ_p1ixv4cHkk7_Q6GV98_QUqzRGTLm-faMjnBU6in4OTJo6X-Gl4MSvE0ukZP6sYos/s1600/l01p08.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2MaOEWZn1sQKu8GvAGYX2UmHCiHYCaDeLU8u_ieonYLZnzFBasgJ-1bS5oRt7NkFSGaS-ivgzJ_p1ixv4cHkk7_Q6GV98_QUqzRGTLm-faMjnBU6in4OTJo6X-Gl4MSvE0ukZP6sYos/s640/l01p08.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The ultimate expression of the feminine form in the garden were these blatantly sexualised "vegetable dolls" with strange, featureless faces and perfectly sculpted bottoms. One was clad in sexy underwear. Another had a dried crust of sweat-like liquid running down its back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6NPqx0XV0y35PqOEnOUL5gz6TjR7OxyQMTSNTk5uqAPjtl6RO5QdPT7cWIjGeLMRQfWPCQMvQ-G0swhne3DYEGer4Lz6r_XQdA8qHHzAHisiaAij3YipYSGFZ_Uz6mJJ8yLgMRi2Aomc/s1600/l01p17.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6NPqx0XV0y35PqOEnOUL5gz6TjR7OxyQMTSNTk5uqAPjtl6RO5QdPT7cWIjGeLMRQfWPCQMvQ-G0swhne3DYEGer4Lz6r_XQdA8qHHzAHisiaAij3YipYSGFZ_Uz6mJJ8yLgMRi2Aomc/s640/l01p17.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This particularly brutal "vegetable doll" was held together by dollops of white, semen-like silicone, and had wisps of real human hair attached to its head.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTZHK5gVvPsEJ8jkLlja02YhIi9XtGaOhmNzlk7xY0TSC8pjERSCje4f3PbfqClSlb-ZyphSour7jv43ebOhG-Zc8rxv5Xtz9mqHH58IOu1QmBZGXuSenF60uglySYkoSgbDtO3egfBCE/s1600/l01p16.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTZHK5gVvPsEJ8jkLlja02YhIi9XtGaOhmNzlk7xY0TSC8pjERSCje4f3PbfqClSlb-ZyphSour7jv43ebOhG-Zc8rxv5Xtz9mqHH58IOu1QmBZGXuSenF60uglySYkoSgbDtO3egfBCE/s640/l01p16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A half-formed butt-gourd looked as if it could start twerking any minute. I wondered if these vegetable dolls had ever been used for more... intimate purposes. I then quickly put the disgusting thought out of my head.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaJ76rc2ux8RFcRy6hGxrsc7ky0UaCpKv4tRrBNOsFa6JaH8QHOIEwF1McDOnmmXUP9sr-9v_lFURpylzpzZMMQvbJ4scxCE5qTkeqpib6p3sJR8fQtp84WZrhRusa9E45u6_4fvtn2mE/s1600/l01p19.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaJ76rc2ux8RFcRy6hGxrsc7ky0UaCpKv4tRrBNOsFa6JaH8QHOIEwF1McDOnmmXUP9sr-9v_lFURpylzpzZMMQvbJ4scxCE5qTkeqpib6p3sJR8fQtp84WZrhRusa9E45u6_4fvtn2mE/s640/l01p19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Less than an hour into my trek, I had already stumbled into a haven of weirdness. The sexual vegetables, the rank human-hair and glue on the gourds and a hinted admiration for Hitler added a taint of darkness to Mr. Ali's garden. For an extra thirty minutes I enjoyed the spectacular view from the porch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdsHHu2uo9uT3PCVVMFeDXA5duggyhAjX-nQIoAao6mLoxyeZltsJovuJinNXsMcfJmj5dXGvY2Vq8CIlJidMKRVbzn1HFwQunJfiPlCLGbEv56_SMMx1xxL68w-oooO4k5jxYZIZuUw/s1600/l01p20.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdsHHu2uo9uT3PCVVMFeDXA5duggyhAjX-nQIoAao6mLoxyeZltsJovuJinNXsMcfJmj5dXGvY2Vq8CIlJidMKRVbzn1HFwQunJfiPlCLGbEv56_SMMx1xxL68w-oooO4k5jxYZIZuUw/s640/l01p20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But now came the task of actually walking the road to Ovacık. This discarded boiler in front of a majestic mountain landscape reminded me faintly of <a href="http://simonstalenhag.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">Simon Stalenhag's</a> retro-futuristic paintings.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimMjKylnBDRNnKX2OcysatmQeU1AT_QiLgKfhaO3pCFbWM50G0o3D_MGfuCgr10XU9pdNP2Ptir-XkTp4erZqU0aWx-pzxamtfhSKm1Evrat5r4eNdqcRIV8hrYPax5JMm5KqMiPP1i6U/s1600/l01p21.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimMjKylnBDRNnKX2OcysatmQeU1AT_QiLgKfhaO3pCFbWM50G0o3D_MGfuCgr10XU9pdNP2Ptir-XkTp4erZqU0aWx-pzxamtfhSKm1Evrat5r4eNdqcRIV8hrYPax5JMm5KqMiPP1i6U/s640/l01p21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I passed through the village of Göynük, and entered the mountain valley that led to Ovacık through the <b>Bey Mountain Coastal National Park</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg0dAzEqjuzvRGSjmc7D2CUYb2sulqD9i3pHm56kpxI25Tlfzel1_osNVFpVwpI9kWSpLi2bQRQ92CXy4kQF6QBsNgytKgkV2oZXNuMb-27uKNXlonmsDCApBKia35JJLb7o-hB8tYBW8/s1600/l01p22.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg0dAzEqjuzvRGSjmc7D2CUYb2sulqD9i3pHm56kpxI25Tlfzel1_osNVFpVwpI9kWSpLi2bQRQ92CXy4kQF6QBsNgytKgkV2oZXNuMb-27uKNXlonmsDCApBKia35JJLb7o-hB8tYBW8/s640/l01p22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A crystal-clear river ran through the park. The lush beauty here contrasted strongly with the ugliness of Göynük less than a kilometre away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdH2e2_oyC9dtfW68yCe1i_iGGEJP5VA07WnnuvU7pXWZ5yoKnbsNLN-flcAhG3s43wsqMqJd_mABfAneIXLDw6voKgn7dPeSt2ikyC1IygTZ9dhbp84c3Tw_LW1W0Jjq5kyhr80KIZ0/s1600/l01p26.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdH2e2_oyC9dtfW68yCe1i_iGGEJP5VA07WnnuvU7pXWZ5yoKnbsNLN-flcAhG3s43wsqMqJd_mABfAneIXLDw6voKgn7dPeSt2ikyC1IygTZ9dhbp84c3Tw_LW1W0Jjq5kyhr80KIZ0/s640/l01p26.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I began climbing up the valley through a winding path that hugged one of the hillsides. I found myself alone in a beautiful, lush and silent mountain forest. I saw many kinds of interesting flowers, but being a wretched botanist, could only identify a few of them.<br />
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I am indebted to the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/IFLbotany/" target="_blank">IFL Botany group on Facebook</a> for sorting out the species in these pictures. This purple wonder was some kind of long-stalked <i>Muscari</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUeHn5ojpAwdSvkyW74M7TzbBsPfccIuQhtkcJXEI5VoImL5k9_PgCGeNYaCBoRN5_G0JKGxrqPqRuuGt2Z0Kl0eo-WjMeZOO3wjk-BEitVEIMk1ZeEQ-tsH1kd9t4qTXAvHIhyphenhyphenRVcWw4/s1600/l01p25.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUeHn5ojpAwdSvkyW74M7TzbBsPfccIuQhtkcJXEI5VoImL5k9_PgCGeNYaCBoRN5_G0JKGxrqPqRuuGt2Z0Kl0eo-WjMeZOO3wjk-BEitVEIMk1ZeEQ-tsH1kd9t4qTXAvHIhyphenhyphenRVcWw4/s640/l01p25.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A sage plant, <i>Salvia sp. </i>These plants were known for their <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21894557" target="_blank">medicinal value</a>. One kind, <i>Salvia divinorum</i>, was even a potent hallucinogen. This one did not belong to that species, however.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePFNENfc6qsb1TQMyjwIPDCM5EP-yqEZBS04JDsPzcgJ4oT_RzlYl357RgJO7qhiHXYoshUUOtqvujkzjZ6LuQPp1f__4lfVRe1Pp_2FNiJe_14aLPGl5Jsw0XLCLV2Bl2SHTb2JX3LU/s1600/l01p24.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePFNENfc6qsb1TQMyjwIPDCM5EP-yqEZBS04JDsPzcgJ4oT_RzlYl357RgJO7qhiHXYoshUUOtqvujkzjZ6LuQPp1f__4lfVRe1Pp_2FNiJe_14aLPGl5Jsw0XLCLV2Bl2SHTb2JX3LU/s640/l01p24.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A clump of yellow Jerusalem sage, <i>Pholmis fruticosa</i> with hungry pollen-eating beetles.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgly4rpnLLnmjpu1lRFWCP1EOdJHdhfihFlKG1s0jyhUh_5bC70JAslm8YPJ0YwhF1PRKsItOVchK1MLGOBEoRUa7hw75O2pg8OOhNLvm2xR5Tpc50y0x3vnMguleQZhZXc-mxFihlmFbU/s1600/l01p27.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgly4rpnLLnmjpu1lRFWCP1EOdJHdhfihFlKG1s0jyhUh_5bC70JAslm8YPJ0YwhF1PRKsItOVchK1MLGOBEoRUa7hw75O2pg8OOhNLvm2xR5Tpc50y0x3vnMguleQZhZXc-mxFihlmFbU/s640/l01p27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Soon after, I began to encounter animals. This <b>stone locust</b>, <i>Orchamus sp</i>. (possibly <i>O. yersini</i>), crept out of a rock crevice in an odd, lizard-like fashion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4kWaGXATdY8hgOx2fuBnIXKXMXVRseXCRqG2kB26veliI2_jLtpWXDQmOAb9sHqmAorXVXwNHoXQfn9lbxeD49qKMFJ7BmYnuw9s_aH2wXk87dQeYm8Ix6-k5DE0azLGwepFZjdouw50/s1600/l01p28.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4kWaGXATdY8hgOx2fuBnIXKXMXVRseXCRqG2kB26veliI2_jLtpWXDQmOAb9sHqmAorXVXwNHoXQfn9lbxeD49qKMFJ7BmYnuw9s_aH2wXk87dQeYm8Ix6-k5DE0azLGwepFZjdouw50/s640/l01p28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These flightless locusts were readily identifiable by their atrophied wings and lobed antennae. Their scientific name, <i>Orchamus</i>, also belonged to a mythical Greek king, who ordered his own daughter, Leucothoe, burnt alive after she was caught in a tryst with the sun-god Helios.<br />
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Nineteenth-century scientists named legions of organisms after figures from ancient myths. I loved tracing down allusions between the names of animals, plants and their mythological counterparts. I also noted in sadness that centuries later, <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/news/turkey-honor-killings/" target="_blank">paternal misogyny was as common in Turkey</a> as it was back in Orchamus' day.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymGEPqmH9PcRjBbE_7sWQ0CyS3BPmKhuBizoQSDTESF-SNe4feIYlL7c6NOxbm_sIiSoGfEf5YFVemYA3wl1hGBZCGbawEJj3eKGuTdm2iXfdO24nrt2f0mOSBzLC0aMAlvMsZDMO63A/s1600/l01p29.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymGEPqmH9PcRjBbE_7sWQ0CyS3BPmKhuBizoQSDTESF-SNe4feIYlL7c6NOxbm_sIiSoGfEf5YFVemYA3wl1hGBZCGbawEJj3eKGuTdm2iXfdO24nrt2f0mOSBzLC0aMAlvMsZDMO63A/s640/l01p29.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I rested frequently and drank lots of water to save my stamina. At one of those rest stops, I saw these Greek strawberry trees, <i>Arbuthus andrachne</i>, natives of the Mediterranean basin. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvxbdw1G0CmUozCX-zXbdZaCFVchDVtqXYhyKXJAqvry_MEnMpyMFka47MWPM0bu7iSAC6FAs-1DR-bX8KMIhZBeSR5dlz3lm0R94XWYCc3UEe5PxvcLwWnOFWUtAmWeGLw6ltmPdxkBo/s1600/l01p30.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvxbdw1G0CmUozCX-zXbdZaCFVchDVtqXYhyKXJAqvry_MEnMpyMFka47MWPM0bu7iSAC6FAs-1DR-bX8KMIhZBeSR5dlz3lm0R94XWYCc3UEe5PxvcLwWnOFWUtAmWeGLw6ltmPdxkBo/s640/l01p30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With red, waving branches, the ancient strawberry trees created an enchanting atmosphere.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBXvhfgULk4O3LExgqUHmWM-hIyVe-HO2jSeZa0ENaCntaIsmGkjMskVC5_vYsllEWimmIa0zP6CJYXcql1jVY5g85zFozAs6Gat-IZddA9MxXVHwMDlqb878LfSBTRfWs_vKLFITDYw/s1600/l01p31.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBXvhfgULk4O3LExgqUHmWM-hIyVe-HO2jSeZa0ENaCntaIsmGkjMskVC5_vYsllEWimmIa0zP6CJYXcql1jVY5g85zFozAs6Gat-IZddA9MxXVHwMDlqb878LfSBTRfWs_vKLFITDYw/s640/l01p31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Lycian trail was famous for the paucity of its trail markers. Usually these minute cairns, or tiny splashes of red and white paint, were all that indicated the continuation of a path.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-jvST8Af-1JhVZTN8EyPkoYOaP0BCKK93o_sGT5lQUV7TKpgJknS02xaA3GXhMpXqsVbl0_-Vbyjb7_DUvtRLABn1cMtQgEdcgrFXgqp50uGVR14ZAUH9jl43k48yEaB0gXPDrFMtlI/s1600/l01p33.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-jvST8Af-1JhVZTN8EyPkoYOaP0BCKK93o_sGT5lQUV7TKpgJknS02xaA3GXhMpXqsVbl0_-Vbyjb7_DUvtRLABn1cMtQgEdcgrFXgqp50uGVR14ZAUH9jl43k48yEaB0gXPDrFMtlI/s640/l01p33.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A view of the forest path. It was sometimes difficult to discern the trail in the undergrowth.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzK3OWIADVxxI53AXc723jqRhIzkm5hcFTkTAnLsROhP5u06IWF74x-kAO_80XLYvVeUQokXCajvRQu3yiH39gT3OjlssR2osxc2ZPqWVeLPU8vAFxNLkvPoj-oJaKygwf1zpdtPwyHQ/s1600/l01p50e.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzK3OWIADVxxI53AXc723jqRhIzkm5hcFTkTAnLsROhP5u06IWF74x-kAO_80XLYvVeUQokXCajvRQu3yiH39gT3OjlssR2osxc2ZPqWVeLPU8vAFxNLkvPoj-oJaKygwf1zpdtPwyHQ/s640/l01p50e.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I saw another, more yellowish-coloured <i>Orchamus </i>locust nearby. I really liked these animals, they rarely jumped and behaved completely unlike other, <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2013/09/giant-stripe-eyed-grasshoppers-of.html" target="_blank">more active locusts and grasshoppers</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgerO8Ge5Gm83ZpCbIPH2H7Za4RiTeCXbs5jYUCce69Azz-QcfpwGkiA7gOOWYMd4-HhpbQ3Cl4V3FQv1bQieI5MNwxb9fxqVPGVAeULc2m1bVJ3xgE6iXgiaiF47kL8iEOsno0hp9yAZM/s1600/l01p50c.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgerO8Ge5Gm83ZpCbIPH2H7Za4RiTeCXbs5jYUCce69Azz-QcfpwGkiA7gOOWYMd4-HhpbQ3Cl4V3FQv1bQieI5MNwxb9fxqVPGVAeULc2m1bVJ3xgE6iXgiaiF47kL8iEOsno0hp9yAZM/s640/l01p50c.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Some branches and twigs were covered in drops of what looked suspiciously like <b>human saliva</b>. I knew, however, that these were not what they looked like. The spit drops were actually <b>nests</b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMxFzdYi1TOUqfjXx5Uz9pkutSdjSMX3CTovT-a-dxb4_sz55fX_EBaSRTTbmmo7f4r4ONpCSp4uUJI53fX-y6gb6Cg5nGBC-RPHmciN5QdParwZkIjUfvC7BJv4M91jTyvPdadjz1nU/s1600/l01p50d.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMxFzdYi1TOUqfjXx5Uz9pkutSdjSMX3CTovT-a-dxb4_sz55fX_EBaSRTTbmmo7f4r4ONpCSp4uUJI53fX-y6gb6Cg5nGBC-RPHmciN5QdParwZkIjUfvC7BJv4M91jTyvPdadjz1nU/s640/l01p50d.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Huddled inside every wad of "spit" were the <b>gelatinous larvae</b> of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froghopper" target="_blank">froghoppers</a>, <i>Cercopidae </i>sp. These insects hid from predators inside their spit-like foam nests. When they matured, they metamorphosed into brightly-coloured, jumping plant-eaters. I introduced this bug back to its spit-nest soon after photographing it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYfl98w582MnT2tiz_B_osn2UPCRQJ1PVMXPcd1C1PpYT5-WGkDbDFBppLbO4Br_n_kuLuyswFqxxBAcCA1nzeIi9s4AAvnS1fUgNWbKNJ_3UiSDHJBtyZmgApkyfpFQJ1FgpPzaLW64g/s1600/l01p50g.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYfl98w582MnT2tiz_B_osn2UPCRQJ1PVMXPcd1C1PpYT5-WGkDbDFBppLbO4Br_n_kuLuyswFqxxBAcCA1nzeIi9s4AAvnS1fUgNWbKNJ_3UiSDHJBtyZmgApkyfpFQJ1FgpPzaLW64g/s640/l01p50g.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Another strange denizen of the undergrowth, a firefly larva, <i>Lampyris noctiluca</i>. The last segment on this prehistoric-looking insect's "tail" glowed in a cool, yellowish light.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDwd3aeQ__ea_KbBYOYK3XVqH3mCfYbsG_jArAFakHDW_hPKB5AoHzIAYmvfnBbJ9bWh6NsMOJFsLReiiuLXPb0nJO82kj6KdNvJjiDcu7TaJazhvI2JDtubXXx8yT_4TFAdI5OAKFIc/s1600/l01p50b.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDwd3aeQ__ea_KbBYOYK3XVqH3mCfYbsG_jArAFakHDW_hPKB5AoHzIAYmvfnBbJ9bWh6NsMOJFsLReiiuLXPb0nJO82kj6KdNvJjiDcu7TaJazhvI2JDtubXXx8yT_4TFAdI5OAKFIc/s640/l01p50b.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A busy nest of carpenter ants, <i>Camponotus sp.</i> possibly <i>Camponotus dalmaticus</i>. They were busily clearing the entrance of their nest from the pollen cones of nearby pine trees. Notice how the workers came in thin-headed, pale varieties and big, black-headed forms.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlxk6T16bt4A9RB0T4ARlNEXUtGBQun4bgbN6vlKFFQ2lZp26LeMvPIAYz4nseBTlOn0HzdfBqYP4kBWe5tFhwaPeKTVBYtVo-0qS7RphOrTxTLmcAfOjrhzENKtTPQqKsLBW2WQuDgWE/s1600/l01p34.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlxk6T16bt4A9RB0T4ARlNEXUtGBQun4bgbN6vlKFFQ2lZp26LeMvPIAYz4nseBTlOn0HzdfBqYP4kBWe5tFhwaPeKTVBYtVo-0qS7RphOrTxTLmcAfOjrhzENKtTPQqKsLBW2WQuDgWE/s640/l01p34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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At certain points, I felt as if I was being watched by tiny eyes on the forest floor. Soon enough, the sight of these small, fluffy jumping spiders confirmed my suspicion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyw2ZAVLZ50lNcudP0-h9_kaTqiyElrzkWjNbmD472iFJsstOU5mjerpP1RvnpEiHJz3yIXIuVfMJ3xJ02IQgjFM8EsewNHqPQI7ciKgPUC4f-EQOGGYUkQpDorh6pc6o-WCR-73njX0w/s1600/l01p35.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyw2ZAVLZ50lNcudP0-h9_kaTqiyElrzkWjNbmD472iFJsstOU5mjerpP1RvnpEiHJz3yIXIuVfMJ3xJ02IQgjFM8EsewNHqPQI7ciKgPUC4f-EQOGGYUkQpDorh6pc6o-WCR-73njX0w/s640/l01p35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These chunky critters were pretty big for jumping spiders, about 8-10 mm. long. They were also quite common, I kept seeing them every 5-10 meters. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtz_IZ89YIi5bNP4JdspZnRPeBHfAzPqx6E-dUix37n2KaZsWUBbJbFsFePyQEyV9_98qrZuijdR7IsGuBEPB2Sn1VAbgke7vGWy4d1EniuId6u4xA9UWlo_j0lxBvfEk0XP5_WgwaKk0/s1600/l01p37.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtz_IZ89YIi5bNP4JdspZnRPeBHfAzPqx6E-dUix37n2KaZsWUBbJbFsFePyQEyV9_98qrZuijdR7IsGuBEPB2Sn1VAbgke7vGWy4d1EniuId6u4xA9UWlo_j0lxBvfEk0XP5_WgwaKk0/s640/l01p37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Look at that cute face! They were also very docile. I think they saw their reflections on the lens of my camera and froze up examining what they thought was a stranger entering their territory.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcaLZNNXRKgDDj8qdhdCK9dIQnrOHnS2pj4IsnuDfNKgvmzmHK_3APADjmsK8wUQ-YDVPl0LkeaV93CXpwtqVGRf2YgD9hN9Y8-1-vnguCIF6Se51gcBx1qlXnOl3vr-bHnf-w5RC2jQ/s1600/l01p36.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcaLZNNXRKgDDj8qdhdCK9dIQnrOHnS2pj4IsnuDfNKgvmzmHK_3APADjmsK8wUQ-YDVPl0LkeaV93CXpwtqVGRf2YgD9hN9Y8-1-vnguCIF6Se51gcBx1qlXnOl3vr-bHnf-w5RC2jQ/s640/l01p36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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One even crawled onto my finger and sat there like a tiny cat. Identifying the species and genera of these cute arachnids was notoriously difficult. After an extensive online search, I concluded that they might be members of the genus <i>Philaeus</i>, or the wonderfully-named <i>Yllaeus</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5nBQrTxpnOaCDPh6rptaWUbiHdApvE3HBo5iKa_QZpUxSpg3q6HmMBW1N41_sNJlsmRtMutjNHLkBwuuZNNkWLJgMJPTpM4PfJ2pjy4lQr3NN3EvGFund-6oUDHwUIXS1Apr3iwHlt_o/s1600/l01p50f.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5nBQrTxpnOaCDPh6rptaWUbiHdApvE3HBo5iKa_QZpUxSpg3q6HmMBW1N41_sNJlsmRtMutjNHLkBwuuZNNkWLJgMJPTpM4PfJ2pjy4lQr3NN3EvGFund-6oUDHwUIXS1Apr3iwHlt_o/s640/l01p50f.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I saw this smaller and rufous-tinged kind of jumping spider alongside the fat grey teddy bears. Heaven only knew what species it was. Perhaps it was simply a sub-adult.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfU3Ce2-AEHN8J1x73l6Om0xKeTu4PM2FticorP7lLeOevNIT5FMXRS3XsaHvlsMjZFN-glMKQFAjiCQv7OzEYBP_JJfuBBEyU3t5jAltt3UNhPl9MuCXr0EvSWRZENt859NCpZwwvLP0/s1600/l01p39.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfU3Ce2-AEHN8J1x73l6Om0xKeTu4PM2FticorP7lLeOevNIT5FMXRS3XsaHvlsMjZFN-glMKQFAjiCQv7OzEYBP_JJfuBBEyU3t5jAltt3UNhPl9MuCXr0EvSWRZENt859NCpZwwvLP0/s640/l01p39.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A giant tree, its serpentine trunk stripped of bark, lay across the path, creating a picturesque resting spot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglg_2BldqmYZPtDPIa_SRy5LXimxgtwmqXUR71z-HPsQ0yqFJ3cIOZSA3d0PAt9pxSX8SbpIKXOQJCvXiuyRmDkD7bohKPUE_Kpp00YCTNAGNyWAgDrgRZoMdALjTtXAXt8ZcGep14_mw/s1600/l01p40.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglg_2BldqmYZPtDPIa_SRy5LXimxgtwmqXUR71z-HPsQ0yqFJ3cIOZSA3d0PAt9pxSX8SbpIKXOQJCvXiuyRmDkD7bohKPUE_Kpp00YCTNAGNyWAgDrgRZoMdALjTtXAXt8ZcGep14_mw/s640/l01p40.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Near the tree I saw my first snake of the trail. It was a mild-mannered, inoffensive <b>modest snake</b>, <i>Eirenis modestus</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hLxK9CU3JOpmAa_Q_OLlgBEqCXEri2kNaao48p0rKFjkdGGuGF-CMlHJwan4OGk2NWb9EuMTh0DI8GaKgnWWtRcJWTk0GJSfV_2PMnSkiXNjRj8l8n6CoqvFFy7u158YunnWT8Ng_r0/s1600/l01p41.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hLxK9CU3JOpmAa_Q_OLlgBEqCXEri2kNaao48p0rKFjkdGGuGF-CMlHJwan4OGk2NWb9EuMTh0DI8GaKgnWWtRcJWTk0GJSfV_2PMnSkiXNjRj8l8n6CoqvFFy7u158YunnWT8Ng_r0/s640/l01p41.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I considered this snake a good omen, caught, photographed it and released it back to the forest floor, where it glided out of sight.<br />
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I saw two other snakes in the mountain valley, but could not photograph them. One was possibly a <b>red whip snake</b>, <i>Platyceps collaris</i>, and the other was a large bodied <b>dice snake</b>, <i>Natrix tessellata</i>.<br />
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All snakes I saw on my trip belonged to harmless species, but the whip snakes, <i>Platyceps collaris</i>, had a reputation for aggressive behaviour. Guides on Turkish herpetology frequently stated that <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21894557" target="_blank">traditional Anatolian snake-charmers</a>, who handled docile but dangerous vipers with impunity, were scared to death of <i>Platyceps </i>snakes due to their quick movements and tendency to lash out in painful (but harmless) bites.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR6qKUL-XaSvqj13abUbDazmCDwNA3-VQxxEk6MOGLC7RAk__7VDNkzKFXIre3stTuFL2cKNVACPX1k5v3_URjnI6aa8GEodRjfzwswS7eSjf9PB7y7jQTgthegecMlzihnoWic1S2bjs/s1600/l01p42.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR6qKUL-XaSvqj13abUbDazmCDwNA3-VQxxEk6MOGLC7RAk__7VDNkzKFXIre3stTuFL2cKNVACPX1k5v3_URjnI6aa8GEodRjfzwswS7eSjf9PB7y7jQTgthegecMlzihnoWic1S2bjs/s640/l01p42.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Another herpetological highlight was this gaudy <b>Anatolian wall lizard</b>, <i>Anatololacerta oertzeni</i>. It was the height of spring, and like many other animals, this brightly-coloured male was out looking for mates. I guess all the snakes were out hunting lizards like these.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicZI-AMb5jNqr1EPIY-IaZEcsi7GvndqnVI-8A5vcOJfnhDpAte2A3U-x7V_aCVtfLN0rKEyiAGXZzXEKziCQSBrwybbsddXQtVTMxLszLx-6I0jXMFfQ1mC8uoz2ovCBITqTVBnTk21k/s1600/l01p44.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicZI-AMb5jNqr1EPIY-IaZEcsi7GvndqnVI-8A5vcOJfnhDpAte2A3U-x7V_aCVtfLN0rKEyiAGXZzXEKziCQSBrwybbsddXQtVTMxLszLx-6I0jXMFfQ1mC8uoz2ovCBITqTVBnTk21k/s640/l01p44.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A spectacular view of the mountains and the forest floor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJM9Snv6OaYLmOvPzkE73cUJnlocg8xZA4-KzR3E35O5lwixbHhLEjp6BfCTLskpthT06BRYwGCrAmgVPjeXrigCtVNuO03FveuShCVR40TDfVCucDEBdQoLg2avZ2sHDSA5OFXbzoa6c/s1600/l01p43.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJM9Snv6OaYLmOvPzkE73cUJnlocg8xZA4-KzR3E35O5lwixbHhLEjp6BfCTLskpthT06BRYwGCrAmgVPjeXrigCtVNuO03FveuShCVR40TDfVCucDEBdQoLg2avZ2sHDSA5OFXbzoa6c/s640/l01p43.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I sat down here and wolfed down a granola bar.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOl559HEXLCaMiiBetBfI7FZDO-pG2__SiM7Qb9qok2gHXEUL6-cmm0ihXIhoCWF1H15eZZ0x-b1hm82PEWByfDMUgd0MlT-bbbhosAtAO_L43Je9iGpAZe24bhm07vQklTE08Y9KkxDU/s1600/l01p49.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOl559HEXLCaMiiBetBfI7FZDO-pG2__SiM7Qb9qok2gHXEUL6-cmm0ihXIhoCWF1H15eZZ0x-b1hm82PEWByfDMUgd0MlT-bbbhosAtAO_L43Je9iGpAZe24bhm07vQklTE08Y9KkxDU/s640/l01p49.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
I then noticed something... <i>strange </i>on a nearby <i>Euphorbia </i>plant.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdI0q1QLsSmCnPVVXkOQwSk6BSaBR8oTE5o_A6-xOvhzazyKYbc6LTp-H_6F1Mf8Bm4ByIHzk5L0_qgI8yE2_FTZr9lhncPMU77z_QcxJZGsBGFJ4ewDVfFm0WeNUE5t6YGyoP9OMBy70/s1600/l01p45.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdI0q1QLsSmCnPVVXkOQwSk6BSaBR8oTE5o_A6-xOvhzazyKYbc6LTp-H_6F1Mf8Bm4ByIHzk5L0_qgI8yE2_FTZr9lhncPMU77z_QcxJZGsBGFJ4ewDVfFm0WeNUE5t6YGyoP9OMBy70/s640/l01p45.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
It was a gecko, its skin darkened in the daylight, trying to hide by pretending to be part of the plant stem.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXhI0aty93mZIEijtS2g1OMTH7wtX463NykFqmwBaQSddq-2F1BIL4MWb1XhBSx8N_mCT8n3QgoF561_pRhgUNSZJL__q3naxIJwDjpqspvGB_u0npPANwzLtkM5f_4SZNDMOSQ5PJWgw/s1600/l01p46.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXhI0aty93mZIEijtS2g1OMTH7wtX463NykFqmwBaQSddq-2F1BIL4MWb1XhBSx8N_mCT8n3QgoF561_pRhgUNSZJL__q3naxIJwDjpqspvGB_u0npPANwzLtkM5f_4SZNDMOSQ5PJWgw/s640/l01p46.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
I took a closer look...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTyeRcjTeRMgsWPx3iSINRh9b2AjvzAejHMjPAzyzF5EtG657Bj0278JbToewu6luROEMtEr-UPNu8uh3tpeWWgh3Ukvu9d5TEML5f0peRFsk186M37TOAP1t3-MRs-uLhCVRoVmeLtuw/s1600/l01p47.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTyeRcjTeRMgsWPx3iSINRh9b2AjvzAejHMjPAzyzF5EtG657Bj0278JbToewu6luROEMtEr-UPNu8uh3tpeWWgh3Ukvu9d5TEML5f0peRFsk186M37TOAP1t3-MRs-uLhCVRoVmeLtuw/s640/l01p47.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
...and closer still. It was a <b>Kotschyi's gecko</b>, <i>Cyrtopodion (=Mediodactylus) kotschyi, </i>but this behaviour made it resemble something from a tropical jungle. I had never seen this kind of camouflage among gecko species in Turkey before.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4S1sdX5vfMp2pwdls5RFy4jGwpMEPGvEBEMfwqILdDEZm0EFG5jmTS6oz9q3fUwYPFdeaZoxoSoILLVxqYe7mzBSBwMmWPwwFcvzQHDuFvYnx1kjHuS-Iw4T90hlWWMYCbUsHsB3CzTE/s1600/l01p48.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4S1sdX5vfMp2pwdls5RFy4jGwpMEPGvEBEMfwqILdDEZm0EFG5jmTS6oz9q3fUwYPFdeaZoxoSoILLVxqYe7mzBSBwMmWPwwFcvzQHDuFvYnx1kjHuS-Iw4T90hlWWMYCbUsHsB3CzTE/s640/l01p48.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I caught the fascinating little critter for a closeup.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP07kQX_vknggDjHLTUluZfZVkxTTystF79CV2HpB4YOcP_xHZiQhnILMM0isRgL-vdp3N3fEqoZjr4vrxTIFxlywYMxkKAiku9oVCibpEnuYdPLJrxRtu8wucXWuT9vYz_ZKq5jhei90/s1600/l01p50.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP07kQX_vknggDjHLTUluZfZVkxTTystF79CV2HpB4YOcP_xHZiQhnILMM0isRgL-vdp3N3fEqoZjr4vrxTIFxlywYMxkKAiku9oVCibpEnuYdPLJrxRtu8wucXWuT9vYz_ZKq5jhei90/s640/l01p50.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The gecko moved rather slowly, and stayed for a few minutes on my lap after I caught and photographed it. I gave it a few drops of water and let it go into the bush.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVbvTg0gLBwx5hmqhOI8laXcJyW-m5krWo9HFJUAUteCw2BZSvZ5Btxtl32mvr7gY35DwVPl8SURuuASQQ3LuxpAqb1WCp5VnQDNvbZ2fG-h0ah4K4uWZj6_QGTVwwZwnu_w1Wc_JuhnM/s1600/l01p51.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVbvTg0gLBwx5hmqhOI8laXcJyW-m5krWo9HFJUAUteCw2BZSvZ5Btxtl32mvr7gY35DwVPl8SURuuASQQ3LuxpAqb1WCp5VnQDNvbZ2fG-h0ah4K4uWZj6_QGTVwwZwnu_w1Wc_JuhnM/s640/l01p51.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I kept on walking. Somewhere along the way, I encountered Mr. Ali's crazy outsider art again, in the form of a baroque advertorial hand-painted on a rock face.<br />
<br />
ALI IS ALWAYS SEEKING SAFER AND CLEANER FOOTPATHS SO THAT YOU CAN EASILY REACH YOOR [sic] DESTINATION. IN CASE YOU ARE HUNGRY ALI'S GARDEN CAFE IS HERE FOR YOU.<br />
<br />
Apparently Mr. Ali walked this park regularly, maintaining the trail, re-painting the faint markers and leaving behind these unique call-signs. Was it art, advertisement... vandalism? Or a curious mixture of all three?<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0bmE9ywaFKs2miUp3zpeeSs5nhqIvaw18jongbeq4r-WGAYYEPrW3IUVZ-cSEE0KXA6mA_RaIq_ZxhMN5yKItrDIRUh_z83AAH4WpXKz2LsuyBbsUNbxvnf9aD4i7AWYScK4rh2TYog/s1600/l01p52.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0bmE9ywaFKs2miUp3zpeeSs5nhqIvaw18jongbeq4r-WGAYYEPrW3IUVZ-cSEE0KXA6mA_RaIq_ZxhMN5yKItrDIRUh_z83AAH4WpXKz2LsuyBbsUNbxvnf9aD4i7AWYScK4rh2TYog/s640/l01p52.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7vvdzGOZypNp89kIi5xlIF6oAdTEE7rUWQVW_tpo34kRYMfCcE2uBrYxEId1SQDnxcsyFmYlxPGQRuoolbZIh3-RhO5NTcwXz517z-W9KGy5z56vmPxxeqY8_e7S14y7mYe-MPeeyqo/s1600/l01p53.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7vvdzGOZypNp89kIi5xlIF6oAdTEE7rUWQVW_tpo34kRYMfCcE2uBrYxEId1SQDnxcsyFmYlxPGQRuoolbZIh3-RhO5NTcwXz517z-W9KGy5z56vmPxxeqY8_e7S14y7mYe-MPeeyqo/s640/l01p53.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I used my camera's self-timer function to take these self-portraits.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYzO1pOoFxEo64fAYmFfIT_0vGJf_N3F6PrRiPWtWmO1c4FDW4ZZ8-tcK2sqhdylOEEXmTFBSI4yigyZ_azEmOhezIe-outts9Zi0PLm8NFVZpkK18TUEtEpfsdgNMe9o4vZMJ3O5O2DA/s1600/l01p50a.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYzO1pOoFxEo64fAYmFfIT_0vGJf_N3F6PrRiPWtWmO1c4FDW4ZZ8-tcK2sqhdylOEEXmTFBSI4yigyZ_azEmOhezIe-outts9Zi0PLm8NFVZpkK18TUEtEpfsdgNMe9o4vZMJ3O5O2DA/s640/l01p50a.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A distance away, I encountered another Kotschyi's gecko, this time basking on a mossy rock. This specimen had an even more pronounced array of spiny scales on its tail and eyelashes.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgKdBkg48HXJofZhaDVXm8VuNP2wlRqs8r_Mddb93NhtsC0wpjFIGTqGAL5cdu7Pc9-s-DWfKOSeOKT2rmrCkNOOaZt-M-9YvNk092v5eGVgu586YtBjPSgeQnyw2RX9_-7LgnZB0T8Es/s1600/l01p50ab.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgKdBkg48HXJofZhaDVXm8VuNP2wlRqs8r_Mddb93NhtsC0wpjFIGTqGAL5cdu7Pc9-s-DWfKOSeOKT2rmrCkNOOaZt-M-9YvNk092v5eGVgu586YtBjPSgeQnyw2RX9_-7LgnZB0T8Es/s640/l01p50ab.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2016/01/three-species-of-Mediterranean-geckos.html?view=magazine" target="_blank">I was long familiar with these geckos</a> from Istanbul, Bodrum and other corners of the Anatolian mainland. The ones I saw near this particular mountain range in Antalya were markedly different with their flat heads, pronounced lower jaws, eyelash-like scales and in their overall appearance.<br />
<br />
These specimens and their unprecedented behaviour, increased my hunch that the "<i>kotschyi</i>" geckos from this region might be an unrecognised species, or in the very least, a different subspecies. Someone, someday, needs to do a DNA study of these lizards to be certain.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_m0jqTpZB_sr8s1pjwQm0rOp0SIaEqx9DFObEjiwR0oAwSbocqAN-7pNyqJzq01_99l6xgRkDUo25ZyP9yW4IkTVbUBVN4WifBqB7EdBpMamDeJ7sWPiBS3bdPWZWkbSoRlOYkqYwqp4/s1600/l01p54.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_m0jqTpZB_sr8s1pjwQm0rOp0SIaEqx9DFObEjiwR0oAwSbocqAN-7pNyqJzq01_99l6xgRkDUo25ZyP9yW4IkTVbUBVN4WifBqB7EdBpMamDeJ7sWPiBS3bdPWZWkbSoRlOYkqYwqp4/s640/l01p54.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
After some more climbing, I reached the edge of the valley and from there, looked on to the magnificent vista of... another valley, complete with Ali's graffiti.<br />
<br />
I realised then that my printed-out maps were hopelessly inadequate: they did not reflect the topography of the terrain. I was spending so much time looking at every insect, reptile, plant, etc. that it was now getting late. It looked like my trek from Göynük to Ovacık would take a longer than I assumed.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJk2mbmTQcGse7Ae3I9rhdP9AliuqrMfMHg-Rbod1uhh8z8dMRueKedfKIYSt5Wvx4ufCGQ7LgpLvgcP-TonRHMghatST77-U5e1SYhorETninqWaD4OgPOrV3W611sUz-VUdr1_CxOI/s1600/l01p55.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJk2mbmTQcGse7Ae3I9rhdP9AliuqrMfMHg-Rbod1uhh8z8dMRueKedfKIYSt5Wvx4ufCGQ7LgpLvgcP-TonRHMghatST77-U5e1SYhorETninqWaD4OgPOrV3W611sUz-VUdr1_CxOI/s640/l01p55.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I nevertheless decided to walk on. I made up my mind to concentrate purely on walking, but this determination was shattered a while later when I saw another, tiny <i>Mediodactylus kotschyi </i>gecko that I just had to stop and photograph.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2cugqu_oXONzo7RAbpaabhxvSwsLiFf6NDqLnaPKsNzJ84wEd4Zo7jk3nYV_W9x4I8yynSHqGgtFN7XP_WYzA5E9xCp5OUtaOHKrqP3MkLvNVl9GLzLdfiLBWdsT0kKQaTgvpJ50JOMU/s1600/l01p56.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2cugqu_oXONzo7RAbpaabhxvSwsLiFf6NDqLnaPKsNzJ84wEd4Zo7jk3nYV_W9x4I8yynSHqGgtFN7XP_WYzA5E9xCp5OUtaOHKrqP3MkLvNVl9GLzLdfiLBWdsT0kKQaTgvpJ50JOMU/s640/l01p56.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Another interesting sight was this ancient, ornately twisted tree root.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2iC5hNpmcdc4fbHs2vdCJSjoleHBuDXgTKeoxgP4QJyhS3whCpiRL-8BLPFfOkoofomU8xyVBVIUFZn4TWlt-LHArPkOLI3oe6_qU52vuBwX2tYLeo1U0P8gP8FC2WnX_ZiZQJLwEPbI/s1600/l01p57.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2iC5hNpmcdc4fbHs2vdCJSjoleHBuDXgTKeoxgP4QJyhS3whCpiRL-8BLPFfOkoofomU8xyVBVIUFZn4TWlt-LHArPkOLI3oe6_qU52vuBwX2tYLeo1U0P8gP8FC2WnX_ZiZQJLwEPbI/s640/l01p57.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The path descended smoothly into the second valley towards Ovacık.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiM175967e_fQY6eV1uF_OvIiOfNU0WjYCOnD1KQQTgCwBMFbAocpmWb1YxlG1AaefMFVoLydYTUFsumVltxghFDySkgqdrbyT4f4GDnDawUly8Bup0Jrm7DJIi78S5b5GFZTwV9z343Q/s1600/l01p58.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiM175967e_fQY6eV1uF_OvIiOfNU0WjYCOnD1KQQTgCwBMFbAocpmWb1YxlG1AaefMFVoLydYTUFsumVltxghFDySkgqdrbyT4f4GDnDawUly8Bup0Jrm7DJIi78S5b5GFZTwV9z343Q/s640/l01p58.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
In the valley path I met a friend <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2014/06/searching-for-giant-grasshoppers-on.html?view=mosaic" target="_blank">familiar from an older adventure</a>, a juvenile bush cricket, <i>Saga sp</i>. These tiny, green insects grew into massive, mouse-sized predators.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm4DheVSGf9Pgc7M-g4bOqNLCq_aFKFrFaZlj1VDL8mQxtK05Viyb7ZKvrQZVe2nefRg3aH4IHUikEfheClCzHeWHB7DshwIN291RTXLpFVRW30RipCjIknuN6-hB_Ni6TEQUKrQvTg2g/s1600/l01p59.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm4DheVSGf9Pgc7M-g4bOqNLCq_aFKFrFaZlj1VDL8mQxtK05Viyb7ZKvrQZVe2nefRg3aH4IHUikEfheClCzHeWHB7DshwIN291RTXLpFVRW30RipCjIknuN6-hB_Ni6TEQUKrQvTg2g/s640/l01p59.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
This second valley was shadier and more moist than the hillside I had just climbed up. Mats of cool green moss covered every surface, and it was absolutely silent. Not even birdsongs were to be heard.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUY3hNEn3Df63K4NUhN9RhLiBHJQCO64BUzgA8uKTk5I6pvf78zJOGEOqS0Ftpb37l0SpnAL-Txdreqt6LbYS12RlkXItU_MOdgr3qqgeHc7S7UOO0oWVCI3dn_KBVwEFt0YCZNOPxnU/s1600/l01p60.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUY3hNEn3Df63K4NUhN9RhLiBHJQCO64BUzgA8uKTk5I6pvf78zJOGEOqS0Ftpb37l0SpnAL-Txdreqt6LbYS12RlkXItU_MOdgr3qqgeHc7S7UOO0oWVCI3dn_KBVwEFt0YCZNOPxnU/s640/l01p60.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I was now undeniably getting tired. My backpack was still feeling too heavy, and I had no more supplies I could afford to discard. To complicate matters further, a piercing headache had just embedded itself to the left side of my skull.<br />
<br />
I sat down on the comfortable moss, cooked up a tablet of aspirin from my medicine bag, drank some water and rested. Maybe it was <i>not </i>such a good idea to press all the way to Ovacık, especially considering that I had no tent or sleeping equipment with me?<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJZEVzQFRqtl4qB62Fx6B-g2GJY7PM3srMoQMVxr5GPs5M2_tqsEzYH1V2K8j75eFmQkLLAAvVxScAWUfKsu5Ueauer6E8E7RuWb0PjX1KdeuEx-4DMhPZ3tN-IwLqcy0whiV8z27sjQ/s1600/l01p61.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJZEVzQFRqtl4qB62Fx6B-g2GJY7PM3srMoQMVxr5GPs5M2_tqsEzYH1V2K8j75eFmQkLLAAvVxScAWUfKsu5Ueauer6E8E7RuWb0PjX1KdeuEx-4DMhPZ3tN-IwLqcy0whiV8z27sjQ/s640/l01p61.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Fifteen minutes to half an hour later, these two middle-aged, friendly British backpackers came walking from the opposite direction and ran into me, lying exhausted on the moss. Unlike me, they had proper trekking equipment...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhE2pDLHDfoLT6JkvC9J3KX29zbHK_SMfTTcoA3q2eLWzpqBYF3ZJgbfs-QqxK8gQ6TPzoxXapI_cMIsOsJrTOEPHeq8u7bc_4ITXJAgUjgIwMGphDuiCd2dC4LTH3hf2e79b0vBNYHCE/s1600/l01p62.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhE2pDLHDfoLT6JkvC9J3KX29zbHK_SMfTTcoA3q2eLWzpqBYF3ZJgbfs-QqxK8gQ6TPzoxXapI_cMIsOsJrTOEPHeq8u7bc_4ITXJAgUjgIwMGphDuiCd2dC4LTH3hf2e79b0vBNYHCE/s640/l01p62.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
...and proper maps, which showed that my intended destination lay quite a way and an enormous climb away from my current location. The British trekkers (I forgot their names), had been walking since dawn, downhill, from <b>Göynük Yayla</b>, a place <i>halfway through</i> here and Ovacık, and were only now able to make it to the outskirts of Göynük's national park.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJgnT07aRzJ-zkQBrFFeUTpYp4xY4zis3s5uuuXnUSrxn6u6wiqn7wvfA9JP9G_fz74dI3Fl5HdhtzcwIcQ3QmagjMy0qmouAvRv5w_-G8rDZ6CCgoGutUZ8GUtqDQ4TS7qb21953uqM/s1600/l01p63.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJgnT07aRzJ-zkQBrFFeUTpYp4xY4zis3s5uuuXnUSrxn6u6wiqn7wvfA9JP9G_fz74dI3Fl5HdhtzcwIcQ3QmagjMy0qmouAvRv5w_-G8rDZ6CCgoGutUZ8GUtqDQ4TS7qb21953uqM/s640/l01p63.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The British couple's map convinced me to turn tail, and probably saved me from a world of trouble that night. Without encountering them, I would probably press on in my stubborn manner, and be forced to spend the night in the mountain valleys around Ovacık.<br />
<br />
This part of the world was notoriously easy to get lost in. Earlier, in 2015, three young <b><a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/11360356/British-student-survives-on-insects-for-eight-days-before-mountain-rescue.html" target="_blank">British trekkers had wandered off the hiking trail, and subsisted on insects and rainwater for eight days before rescuers found him</a></b>. Even earlier on, in the 19th century, there were travelers' accounts of people getting lost for days on roads only a few miles long. I decided to return to Göynük from the same path I came through.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Abny2tn_14k_CqcUSeqImtjgK2paHomGAFR02oVppE7YW8_CdjKYhjzOvPLKNwiaSXoTdZxhygX07hZHXj0iatrnnJgQw76HykSJcNVPz80k9LMTl6cMJY2t72U2LH4PrvgKYeOjQgw/s1600/l01p64.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Abny2tn_14k_CqcUSeqImtjgK2paHomGAFR02oVppE7YW8_CdjKYhjzOvPLKNwiaSXoTdZxhygX07hZHXj0iatrnnJgQw76HykSJcNVPz80k9LMTl6cMJY2t72U2LH4PrvgKYeOjQgw/s640/l01p64.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I saw one more masterpiece from Mr. Ali on my route back.<br />
<br />
"ALI IS ALWAYS SEEKING SAFER AND CLEANER FOOTPATHS SO THAT YOU CAN EASILY REACH YOUR DESTINATION IN CASE YOU ARE HUNGRY OR WISH TO STAY OVERNIGHT, ALI'S GARDEN CAFE IS HERE FOR YOU. PLEASE CROSS OVER THE RIVERBED AND FALLOW [sic] THE PATH ON THE OTHER SIDE IN THE DIRECTION OF THE BEACH FOR ABOUT 4 KM.<br />
<br />
It gave me a hint on where I could spend the night, but I did not look forward to sleeping in a garden of perverted gourd-sculptures.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_VvF80uBfawVGhkSLFD9J-jzNbNQUvpcBLAxs0moMtfCiA1j0XADWhJCpNfPb8lIdhvugveLihu6KmhRPguiFEkvWSIe9vwShi9HG9AKZfDwO0ocsWPX26lTNobN3FVPmoQSLHw8iMSI/s1600/l01p65.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_VvF80uBfawVGhkSLFD9J-jzNbNQUvpcBLAxs0moMtfCiA1j0XADWhJCpNfPb8lIdhvugveLihu6KmhRPguiFEkvWSIe9vwShi9HG9AKZfDwO0ocsWPX26lTNobN3FVPmoQSLHw8iMSI/s640/l01p65.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I crossed the riverbed again on my way out of the park.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KH3e776EF4vDORsnuhRAc9oUC6pU8n6Oi5xAw9_jMTjekw2kKSyYfAkhBuK6rhOgSnZb0p6OZRnREqxUggopcRax04Kw94Xx4atCnMXtwPls58baN_2e7cYqqVkxBUYVYD2IVS93V7A/s1600/l01p66.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KH3e776EF4vDORsnuhRAc9oUC6pU8n6Oi5xAw9_jMTjekw2kKSyYfAkhBuK6rhOgSnZb0p6OZRnREqxUggopcRax04Kw94Xx4atCnMXtwPls58baN_2e7cYqqVkxBUYVYD2IVS93V7A/s640/l01p66.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I sat down by the river and ate the first "full meal" of the day. This trek really opened my city-slicker eyes to the value of food - calories were literally fuel for the body.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YyoRpedzlJ4NYLFC3oHRz1CLJHlCF3VTY0C0Cv7nJyuu4NAxeVP6FIIWoltEQVwGvyvf8piXTSxr6MKflp6G-WRXWai03zrPJpQrswe4vDsxkgyPcLdkYxl-Q_hQNaHWZyUdv6pHbac/s1600/l01p67.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YyoRpedzlJ4NYLFC3oHRz1CLJHlCF3VTY0C0Cv7nJyuu4NAxeVP6FIIWoltEQVwGvyvf8piXTSxr6MKflp6G-WRXWai03zrPJpQrswe4vDsxkgyPcLdkYxl-Q_hQNaHWZyUdv6pHbac/s640/l01p67.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I felt refreshed and ready to walk more after gulping down the pack of tuna with some water and another granola bar. They all tasted delicious - hunger was truly the best sauce.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhRraNszVbVm8-S2QiEzG7sZolJ_M37y-dquM8Ypmj-DphgSPwQo2AC7CBWaDH8CPQqs9pvtBndV7W5derOojONOWpph1dCEXk8XSPm_wi-R27H_eppJCk4F9_wM6xm1XonSDVZF7mRIY/s1600/l01p68.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhRraNszVbVm8-S2QiEzG7sZolJ_M37y-dquM8Ypmj-DphgSPwQo2AC7CBWaDH8CPQqs9pvtBndV7W5derOojONOWpph1dCEXk8XSPm_wi-R27H_eppJCk4F9_wM6xm1XonSDVZF7mRIY/s640/l01p68.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
On the route back through Göynük village, I took notice of various man-made structures. Human artefacts were as bizarre and noteworthy as the animals and plants I'd encountered in the valley.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOBbjuABfryoj_pPPKkb8XQ0CADYm1imMvnjq4pTGq0PhgsYr7Z7v4Dw90rvoI3iUk3PL7l7toCWRfTo3dYvrr86PKyfadUE-fMkhnmkN1b9I4io4XkQ3_obA0SKqGiOoGRLw5jAbc8c4/s1600/l01p69.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOBbjuABfryoj_pPPKkb8XQ0CADYm1imMvnjq4pTGq0PhgsYr7Z7v4Dw90rvoI3iUk3PL7l7toCWRfTo3dYvrr86PKyfadUE-fMkhnmkN1b9I4io4XkQ3_obA0SKqGiOoGRLw5jAbc8c4/s640/l01p69.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Extremely ugly villas, so awful that they had attained a strange level of beauty, littered the outskirts of the village. No doubt this unpainted concrete masterpiece was somebody's idea of a fine countryside manor.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FzziFNBj2MLULgqjvZSD4TACG4v9NeuHiL8XQC6PJ0-4lpPwq7tSMcOCv-5XJcLOhxKC50vM9cA2jquP0yrkT__0ontjUq8vKYIjU8h5hMNBmY9ke_aISdeJwIj4iE7MmPVZCuVcc5M/s1600/l01p70.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FzziFNBj2MLULgqjvZSD4TACG4v9NeuHiL8XQC6PJ0-4lpPwq7tSMcOCv-5XJcLOhxKC50vM9cA2jquP0yrkT__0ontjUq8vKYIjU8h5hMNBmY9ke_aISdeJwIj4iE7MmPVZCuVcc5M/s640/l01p70.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A more tame-looking countryside house with walled-in gardens.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8sAtw6NaYqgPNUWwDiosEx8bT3CxKW3B2_0uWfz9rjXIrJN4U4pw6ezb6fyW-Kk8dvnnBvbWxo81KUxVYBDWKW6kzq3HuKmYWfI8aa3yKxZ3VnHn4Q98JRt3u-ik1xQzK_0kQTwcDtxA/s1600/l01p71.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8sAtw6NaYqgPNUWwDiosEx8bT3CxKW3B2_0uWfz9rjXIrJN4U4pw6ezb6fyW-Kk8dvnnBvbWxo81KUxVYBDWKW6kzq3HuKmYWfI8aa3yKxZ3VnHn4Q98JRt3u-ik1xQzK_0kQTwcDtxA/s640/l01p71.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The sun was finally setting behind the majestic mountains and the strange houses of Göynük village.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewhyphenhyphentQVzsmfFdJGw4bpH47a_XZr0WRq8yxIhw6eS0G0qwjiORnOvo_vD7AN8wdVIkr7_kF-wwZNVBZbp2PcvCGSINBDMeYr7rkpFNCJAlN4UmMm-A3RwOilAOKaMMLeCRC1JMkg3deY8/s1600/l01p72.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewhyphenhyphentQVzsmfFdJGw4bpH47a_XZr0WRq8yxIhw6eS0G0qwjiORnOvo_vD7AN8wdVIkr7_kF-wwZNVBZbp2PcvCGSINBDMeYr7rkpFNCJAlN4UmMm-A3RwOilAOKaMMLeCRC1JMkg3deY8/s640/l01p72.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Somewhere near the entrance of the village lay this abandoned house, possibly built by members of Antalya's departed Greek population in the first decades of the 20th century. Made before the advent of plastic window-frames, mass-produced bricks and concrete, it was perhaps the only proper-looking structure in the area.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHM7oA_GT1ISMniAXFObPSfZc0tN-NUiCcP9WSmew9eGvrW-XJJ-ZAbcryNIwc2qwl7x4uo4lHXzMCVnHzdXlVE8-6lfdfo3R4aRfC7wcRbNYT8H-EasXQL0Rk-75LY_D66DgBLKpBvM/s1600/l01p73.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHM7oA_GT1ISMniAXFObPSfZc0tN-NUiCcP9WSmew9eGvrW-XJJ-ZAbcryNIwc2qwl7x4uo4lHXzMCVnHzdXlVE8-6lfdfo3R4aRfC7wcRbNYT8H-EasXQL0Rk-75LY_D66DgBLKpBvM/s640/l01p73.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The garden of another house, with a strange spiral staircase and an interesting brick fireplace.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbUO9-jtwR4DAe8UCw4AcsOH8YibmAku3bJVQO-cZRmOU0zjFJWMpabCA1KBh3_KeQddHgcfv6bMKkgNfiLdF4r1mOFdVMU_7f8onLh_w0Kgk1AArBXXdKOSwKQcOd_k0pAKyZRuyOGE/s1600/l01p74.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbUO9-jtwR4DAe8UCw4AcsOH8YibmAku3bJVQO-cZRmOU0zjFJWMpabCA1KBh3_KeQddHgcfv6bMKkgNfiLdF4r1mOFdVMU_7f8onLh_w0Kgk1AArBXXdKOSwKQcOd_k0pAKyZRuyOGE/s640/l01p74.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A decrepit old car with a piebald pattern of rust patches was parked outside an "eco-lodge." Unfortunately, perhaps owing to the dearth of tourists in this season, the place wasn't open for business yet.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29cXgdFznz9NOLJZpN47hAvDK1lozjMyacIiU6X4k-QHdJLGpsC42jONkB5bgiISgomzJ4ve6CFzBZ2ry4P1_K9_xBkZRXRQLvuxW3ltGC0ebFvSCkvQ3nXfFFU1leTXnYjQvGN8J6SU/s1600/l01p78.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29cXgdFznz9NOLJZpN47hAvDK1lozjMyacIiU6X4k-QHdJLGpsC42jONkB5bgiISgomzJ4ve6CFzBZ2ry4P1_K9_xBkZRXRQLvuxW3ltGC0ebFvSCkvQ3nXfFFU1leTXnYjQvGN8J6SU/s640/l01p78.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I kept looking for places to stay near Göynük. No hope. Even Ali's place was closed by the time I returned from my botched trek in the valley. While looking for motels, I also passed by this beautiful little house with a walled-off garden, blossoming with magnolia and poinsettia trees.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_JD5aUUrzpdEUxQ_RgqZhCHn4rkGfU-QN9bAWyC2DvJuSYoUPmGqeGRsQ0SUHL3Sa9Dbh0UXt1-Xapo7pvKNVcc674mHmxSk0PFvD1duYufyhJq2BK_LowSwneUO56FcJDtt81qOFhLk/s1600/l01p77.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_JD5aUUrzpdEUxQ_RgqZhCHn4rkGfU-QN9bAWyC2DvJuSYoUPmGqeGRsQ0SUHL3Sa9Dbh0UXt1-Xapo7pvKNVcc674mHmxSk0PFvD1duYufyhJq2BK_LowSwneUO56FcJDtt81qOFhLk/s640/l01p77.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The ruins of Turkish tourism were visible everywhere around the town. This decaying van, branded by the logo of "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cybele" target="_blank">Kybele</a> Tourism," a dead company named after a long-dead Anatolian goddess, was an iconic picture of the present state of affairs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7bcPqx0kquxhB03G8qfpV4Kf5AV7LLXkgo8iB0RPmBsxQnp6gP_MzLoLYlIap7euh79WiK28zC9ZYkTdbx1FgUVP0DkbXyWm0GPylhp7zaNj-_5JNINlY5NY4PyukyQd5o8pJMDf070/s1600/l01p76.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7bcPqx0kquxhB03G8qfpV4Kf5AV7LLXkgo8iB0RPmBsxQnp6gP_MzLoLYlIap7euh79WiK28zC9ZYkTdbx1FgUVP0DkbXyWm0GPylhp7zaNj-_5JNINlY5NY4PyukyQd5o8pJMDf070/s640/l01p76.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A hundred or so meters away from the rusting Kybele van stood this decaying row of ATVs, sun-baked and rusting, uncared for due to a lack of visitors.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDxxaQ7EI05rNrwy3Ce9mh17c_bhfJNUgC43h02ayaJj9tLljFAZr1Dgaj89IHtrUZ4RevG2TCzaEfFbrSs6u1dv5EMIFaOQPcUtq2jJ_yTg8Es8dJJSO0tacXPUM9m36RXdEW80Movk/s1600/l01p75.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDxxaQ7EI05rNrwy3Ce9mh17c_bhfJNUgC43h02ayaJj9tLljFAZr1Dgaj89IHtrUZ4RevG2TCzaEfFbrSs6u1dv5EMIFaOQPcUtq2jJ_yTg8Es8dJJSO0tacXPUM9m36RXdEW80Movk/s640/l01p75.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I reached the end of Göynük's hinterland village without finding a place to stay.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJ9E1019xUqnsoNr0BnuwcGEBgICmXuUe1KgHlDDXCZOIu1Yu0nK3nKJjqRsBUCCwYU3HnfkzFvVCwREjHRYl6MU6mSGjxT30zUHYVGA5NOBeGDQkzSy5aOGTuio4cyocTpCB0xB7CCg/s1600/l01p81.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJ9E1019xUqnsoNr0BnuwcGEBgICmXuUe1KgHlDDXCZOIu1Yu0nK3nKJjqRsBUCCwYU3HnfkzFvVCwREjHRYl6MU6mSGjxT30zUHYVGA5NOBeGDQkzSy5aOGTuio4cyocTpCB0xB7CCg/s640/l01p81.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I saw a final hand-painted sign by Mr. Ali on my way out. It told of a historical castle an hour's walk away, but time was in short supply now. A sense of urgency crept in - I was getting cold, tired, and the straps of my backpack were digging into my shoulders. From here, I could press on to the seashore, where some hotels were definitely available, but now that I knew my maps were botched, where would I go from there? Somehow, coming back to Göynük valley did not appeal to me - I wanted to reach my final destination, <b>Çıralı</b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkmk582N2fQfV0jtR3BX9qbq6dfb47F5TAGL0YCbM1PeKHj4daBEslbKdgrX5TMpiNEujUvDF0z4muQ9RXIeaeF607uYibcvu308u-Mf2z5MxYEh0oHVCjPV0crLN0DG-fPtVHVkDuqAc/s1600/l01p83.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkmk582N2fQfV0jtR3BX9qbq6dfb47F5TAGL0YCbM1PeKHj4daBEslbKdgrX5TMpiNEujUvDF0z4muQ9RXIeaeF607uYibcvu308u-Mf2z5MxYEh0oHVCjPV0crLN0DG-fPtVHVkDuqAc/s640/l01p83.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I made a swift change of plans. I caught a passing minibus from Göynük to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tekirova" target="_blank">Tekirova</a>, where I could go on a daily trek to nearby Phaselis, and on the following day, walk all the way to Çıralı itself.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5BMHB3FE7O92Qe14FmAIv_ms9nXZAWTJZuhTNFGS5MquYvtr4x3tRkfzARumxYKoiwqZ42GNV0RQslvABZzbhn77SukPDnyCQkGk7O_CYwGGhUwjyEa0ojZbOYzj-6Jd8We0WYzYmMZs/s1600/l01p84.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5BMHB3FE7O92Qe14FmAIv_ms9nXZAWTJZuhTNFGS5MquYvtr4x3tRkfzARumxYKoiwqZ42GNV0RQslvABZzbhn77SukPDnyCQkGk7O_CYwGGhUwjyEa0ojZbOYzj-6Jd8We0WYzYmMZs/s640/l01p84.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I arrived at Tekirova close to midnight. On first sight, it seemed to be a touristic town like any other in the region.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUd2yXBb-brHp4Ta2Nhp_0V6ITvuIF6B2xE-lDhUGYmYk7crOsKPgghR68gOybRWAHbpNkXwvGGzVhn_kggTxg0RA3XjSiyXZh0_gsgCGKfPZtKgRcj56NGDdDIIsYO35GiU-cPuj7WzQ/s1600/l01p85.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUd2yXBb-brHp4Ta2Nhp_0V6ITvuIF6B2xE-lDhUGYmYk7crOsKPgghR68gOybRWAHbpNkXwvGGzVhn_kggTxg0RA3XjSiyXZh0_gsgCGKfPZtKgRcj56NGDdDIIsYO35GiU-cPuj7WzQ/s640/l01p85.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I ate a final meal, a slab of overcooked chicken schnitzel at a completely psychedelic local restaurant. The restaurant owners were a bit upset that I was photographing their empty pond. "<i>You should come back tomorrow,"</i> they said, "<i>and we'll fill the pond and turn on the light fountain!"</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFj9hPSmuvPPkp92f0SyzMEAnGk6yKWS8HfAg26MasRn0Hl84ObNkS2GFhJ1Yu1fgW9Vm7oiRFjZYWfZr_MLa8s18siaxqKsoLRh4GNdWuWM1Lztzx4HgoIYsB_Q8oau6peuNAvyEplA/s1600/l01p86.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFj9hPSmuvPPkp92f0SyzMEAnGk6yKWS8HfAg26MasRn0Hl84ObNkS2GFhJ1Yu1fgW9Vm7oiRFjZYWfZr_MLa8s18siaxqKsoLRh4GNdWuWM1Lztzx4HgoIYsB_Q8oau6peuNAvyEplA/s640/l01p86.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
After dinner, I checked in to a local 2-star motel named <a href="http://www.hotel-jasmine.com/" target="_blank">Jasmine Hotel</a>. The small but comfortable room (with a hot shower!) seemed like paradise after my tiring day.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9s05cKsl1dl2vQt32l0mpnRVhVV_pH3gSLHcRbkqXz77qxDhRge7_ic5bA4gwJMcKp6ik02GuScApE0vU4JvVMlc1jzWwA58bwZp_57I3OIjAVdqv4pmecckZ-pz-LCX_KxJKLASadYE/s1600/l01p87.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9s05cKsl1dl2vQt32l0mpnRVhVV_pH3gSLHcRbkqXz77qxDhRge7_ic5bA4gwJMcKp6ik02GuScApE0vU4JvVMlc1jzWwA58bwZp_57I3OIjAVdqv4pmecckZ-pz-LCX_KxJKLASadYE/s640/l01p87.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I drifted off to a dreamless sleep after watching soft-core Turkish porn dressed up as an advert for a performance-enchancing "health cream." It was a magical day, full of strange animals and human artefacts I'd never see if I hadn't dared to embark on this trek. Despite not being able to walk all the way to Ovacık, I was very satisfied and was filled with excitement for the walks I'd take in the following days.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdwr5GgfQPRxuYe1HkHsM8mahSYILD3uVcGSpd1RFTROvUUFKBIU1HUzj8XhHpVNWyC5UIyUUPel1l3FpcxrS7dJjvI4JF41w0xLOKyR4avhQ_2jGMygn1EocOsagmNTX9DuN1ttSBg4/s1600/l01pxx.jpg"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdwr5GgfQPRxuYe1HkHsM8mahSYILD3uVcGSpd1RFTROvUUFKBIU1HUzj8XhHpVNWyC5UIyUUPel1l3FpcxrS7dJjvI4JF41w0xLOKyR4avhQ_2jGMygn1EocOsagmNTX9DuN1ttSBg4/s640/l01pxx.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Thus ended my first day on the Lycian trail. Here is a map of my walk in Göynük that day.<br />
<br />
***<br />
<br />
<b>Day Two: Tekirova to Phaselis</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2zpeMleBKSDmMps9obHhoxPJeKpLfyR7aM0njsnBWh_2o0H5k_fTGNf9XwRa1f1_gtakTauQDw4S5-4uWcEGHcfjnLHjN-cDrkfC7sqHqktk_l-LlmB5esqtcyQcpI6aJZ3obAChrX4/s1600/l02p01.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2zpeMleBKSDmMps9obHhoxPJeKpLfyR7aM0njsnBWh_2o0H5k_fTGNf9XwRa1f1_gtakTauQDw4S5-4uWcEGHcfjnLHjN-cDrkfC7sqHqktk_l-LlmB5esqtcyQcpI6aJZ3obAChrX4/s640/l02p01.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I woke up early on my second day, and walked out of the purple-and-liliac lobby of Jasmine Hotel, and into a nearby breakfast joint.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVGNnNlSLdDVLivaWqfpS-tB9EbJkkIiE4DXlQajP_9IU1GDJLS2jVdDrXmVgRtD9KJQW6-BAhDrmEzqfm4n9J_YlyRtAJpv2NhtGRQugHY8dmcuJBmGtNS3U9tN3q0h-9rZJMeJEv60/s1600/l02p02.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVGNnNlSLdDVLivaWqfpS-tB9EbJkkIiE4DXlQajP_9IU1GDJLS2jVdDrXmVgRtD9KJQW6-BAhDrmEzqfm4n9J_YlyRtAJpv2NhtGRQugHY8dmcuJBmGtNS3U9tN3q0h-9rZJMeJEv60/s640/l02p02.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Exhausted from my first day, I ordered myself a massive breakfast: two eggs, a circular, honey-laden Turkish dessert, various pastries, breads and coffee. I decided to "take it light" that day. I'd leave the extra weight in my hotel room, walk to the nearby ruins of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phaselis" target="_blank">Phaselis</a> and return before sunset.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8GaPriTt0_8yghcJ4MPcmIMLSQ7z_KK1Gbe9lcu7fuCsyO7AAMF3dm89t8UU7VG8lyU9i_4tBQMPvNuDLmvMOK3D8nJGsbV9LggfyeKEBWNlgtwEHLXjF8dSlQTANXoG5Z1ivCx599Q/s1600/l02p03.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8GaPriTt0_8yghcJ4MPcmIMLSQ7z_KK1Gbe9lcu7fuCsyO7AAMF3dm89t8UU7VG8lyU9i_4tBQMPvNuDLmvMOK3D8nJGsbV9LggfyeKEBWNlgtwEHLXjF8dSlQTANXoG5Z1ivCx599Q/s640/l02p03.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Before taking off for Phaselis, however, I decided to explore Tekirova itself. I firmly believed that the weirdness and foibles of man-made environments, especially in chaotic places like Turkey, were as interesting as the beauty and diversity of nature itself. At any rate, the distinctions between the two realms were forced and artificial.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKYRfwAtGX3x8tS8Wygc_5OgJMSMZ4L0C_ZCRpVa8hXC8xs6XqD9WRqYNCRm81l2kiNjkdwdur6cVa87zS7PbqK7xRJxybM8v-36ySuQfucXv6t9UFdVzplDCbYfKUQiKlpLsup7TvdVU/s1600/l02p04.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKYRfwAtGX3x8tS8Wygc_5OgJMSMZ4L0C_ZCRpVa8hXC8xs6XqD9WRqYNCRm81l2kiNjkdwdur6cVa87zS7PbqK7xRJxybM8v-36ySuQfucXv6t9UFdVzplDCbYfKUQiKlpLsup7TvdVU/s640/l02p04.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The town had an older core of planned, Yugoslav-style holiday houses and stores dating to the 1980s, surrounded by a growth of "modern" hotels, cafes, restaurants, and leather shops aimed at low-budget Russian tourists who started coming here in the last decade. The older part was full of architectural quirks like this beige, brutalist square surrounded by concrete fencing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOfmvtmESLiS2LhsEgZNjjXn2NanJbgAzqLNy2l896dpBIb9_ff0oTGZiRnthhgJC2cofK3cs662XG4vHohZNwTkN5xjk17eZCQ2dUjJh1sqChah4i48NVpI0aaFSzVS6SVb_HTAXJhJY/s1600/l02p05.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOfmvtmESLiS2LhsEgZNjjXn2NanJbgAzqLNy2l896dpBIb9_ff0oTGZiRnthhgJC2cofK3cs662XG4vHohZNwTkN5xjk17eZCQ2dUjJh1sqChah4i48NVpI0aaFSzVS6SVb_HTAXJhJY/s640/l02p05.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Overcast skies, pattering rain and this old Mercedes O-305 intercity bus added to the nostalgic feeling of the town.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj68cvGu6wYP3ApXCCQzMX4ZP38gNc57u82qHe8YawP6uJlMMWwQPq8N0_Ss7LJc2wlFENPnH_yRUNkE3iLkPJUm_7tFmTJYqVsxePiOT4fzvQwp4IOnu8oYfGKeRjbUqsTy125ulxjvOo/s1600/l02p06.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj68cvGu6wYP3ApXCCQzMX4ZP38gNc57u82qHe8YawP6uJlMMWwQPq8N0_Ss7LJc2wlFENPnH_yRUNkE3iLkPJUm_7tFmTJYqVsxePiOT4fzvQwp4IOnu8oYfGKeRjbUqsTy125ulxjvOo/s640/l02p06.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
This angular, planned complex of holiday houses from the 1980s actually looked quite charming and liveable in its own right. The permanent residents of Tekirova lived in these houses year-round...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YjCIz2eiq4imdGVsJtsBCJgjs3xebJ5Tm9x4QYXMvnGliOh9x1TxtqLezN2MYUVF4n6ZHHOqgmj1JYGWVRUhW2dbBW-f4Ne2cw0f9JKvgR0P3VsgRyAXAK0MHzc_IcS57ew_ggSOx8Y/s1600/l02p07.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YjCIz2eiq4imdGVsJtsBCJgjs3xebJ5Tm9x4QYXMvnGliOh9x1TxtqLezN2MYUVF4n6ZHHOqgmj1JYGWVRUhW2dbBW-f4Ne2cw0f9JKvgR0P3VsgRyAXAK0MHzc_IcS57ew_ggSOx8Y/s640/l02p07.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
...while the shops lay abandoned due to the sudden cut-off of Russian tourists this year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSA125cow1P3JPdU08Ta9RNZG2z_kl1jNmsdvsF1KtWnxKvmeY0N6YVq0khKVJpbMdPY0u1U0R1aLnl45lcGU74HW5qXOazS_pAmxlGO0GTQ6ez17gTCv8J8hTMzYM9VJhSiU_1-Ngsmk/s1600/l02p08.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSA125cow1P3JPdU08Ta9RNZG2z_kl1jNmsdvsF1KtWnxKvmeY0N6YVq0khKVJpbMdPY0u1U0R1aLnl45lcGU74HW5qXOazS_pAmxlGO0GTQ6ez17gTCv8J8hTMzYM9VJhSiU_1-Ngsmk/s640/l02p08.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
More views of abandoned shops and their strange architecture. The town was going through really hard times this year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj491NT5QASYYglDJCzSWw1SGPmqtEJ1F6iO2qDwXRYs06y071zOy8DPNGIzQwgQysimDQFbwhhzpJJwUiBTbaxbRXi57jDgH4UM86IEGsJHxLAxGCr4xp4HU5BNGh4B8ah6cuDv5jRpUU/s1600/l02p12.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj491NT5QASYYglDJCzSWw1SGPmqtEJ1F6iO2qDwXRYs06y071zOy8DPNGIzQwgQysimDQFbwhhzpJJwUiBTbaxbRXi57jDgH4UM86IEGsJHxLAxGCr4xp4HU5BNGh4B8ah6cuDv5jRpUU/s640/l02p12.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCelfA7tupn6RGFihJxCc4wwekKKD7xipYNDuNMGBR54L-HgmQwzQd1H-t2MdmDmcS3zTju2IK24G3BT7I4E4jTO0zsBiDVxBIZxsfF_56JPMSGSsg-8vRuw57CM0jshpkqWqzJ729dKY/s1600/l02p13.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCelfA7tupn6RGFihJxCc4wwekKKD7xipYNDuNMGBR54L-HgmQwzQd1H-t2MdmDmcS3zTju2IK24G3BT7I4E4jTO0zsBiDVxBIZxsfF_56JPMSGSsg-8vRuw57CM0jshpkqWqzJ729dKY/s640/l02p13.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTRqN9sRGGNxhclXKAlEk4Q7oZBSPPzrd_ygoh9PLaOkhIh221_gD2uw1aIMnbrfEpuSPh19gBUBn8MJmrtRtBlyid4za86LwbOCckXsAhVCH-THnmqoRxlU56CBHgg73Tn7yXcGC6z2w/s1600/l02p09.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTRqN9sRGGNxhclXKAlEk4Q7oZBSPPzrd_ygoh9PLaOkhIh221_gD2uw1aIMnbrfEpuSPh19gBUBn8MJmrtRtBlyid4za86LwbOCckXsAhVCH-THnmqoRxlU56CBHgg73Tn7yXcGC6z2w/s640/l02p09.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A view from the town's little cemetery. A purposeless concrete fence was painted an inexplicably cheerful shade of tangerine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uRHBfkh0BCThXE4FTJ-1reJQ9nouJmQ4iYqotzhNXaqJseoWKs91OlVQqUKOTi3xHjhUsTaxxa-v2Km6Hy4E0RnSmzCB2psL1Yc28sjDQSniZwCVPq16rpwyAtt2qNfX8T_oGUyYUJI/s1600/l02p11.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uRHBfkh0BCThXE4FTJ-1reJQ9nouJmQ4iYqotzhNXaqJseoWKs91OlVQqUKOTi3xHjhUsTaxxa-v2Km6Hy4E0RnSmzCB2psL1Yc28sjDQSniZwCVPq16rpwyAtt2qNfX8T_oGUyYUJI/s640/l02p11.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
People really liked concrete in Turkey. Perhaps it was due to its cheap price. Or perhaps, the stone-like permanence of the material gave people a sense of security. Even the ablution fountain next to the cemetery mosque was made out of Play-Doh-like slabs of the material, and painted in brilliant tones of white, green and pink.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGij4x4rYAMOVoAhs8RiorR6yuVIwuv7oSBTfsS8-gDDYzQTCwmseQU71_LZdEkzhFimTJYDm36_AfxBGpBM3sKEkx2OCfQqMPKvUTGPrNZlGzqfuJcb5wuwRLOhCqsyJ5DNacKCQ1TVs/s1600/l02p10.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGij4x4rYAMOVoAhs8RiorR6yuVIwuv7oSBTfsS8-gDDYzQTCwmseQU71_LZdEkzhFimTJYDm36_AfxBGpBM3sKEkx2OCfQqMPKvUTGPrNZlGzqfuJcb5wuwRLOhCqsyJ5DNacKCQ1TVs/s640/l02p10.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
More brutalist holiday-house madness from the 1980s: I couldn't even begin to describe the ways I loved this cake-coloured motel building. That globe light set into a niche of its own, the tiny polygonal wooden windows, the tetrahedral smokestacks... This place was abandoned due to a lack of tourists. Behind its weird facade, a cacophony of frogs croaked every night in a half-empty swimming pool.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXWEI4_P5r-gZtchWXMCWH2Zo6CoF-7N3S2fRbjxbMt3BfQ2eKIQIMIex65euHx73MY5U2ThY5O_T9Mn3FQOFPtzp1ZP-X03TKy6FPEQLVDUKRydpNLOlNQ_71Fp2wkh8Ht1dXrhMn4_4/s1600/l02p14.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXWEI4_P5r-gZtchWXMCWH2Zo6CoF-7N3S2fRbjxbMt3BfQ2eKIQIMIex65euHx73MY5U2ThY5O_T9Mn3FQOFPtzp1ZP-X03TKy6FPEQLVDUKRydpNLOlNQ_71Fp2wkh8Ht1dXrhMn4_4/s640/l02p14.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The epitome of brutal architecture in any Turkish town was likely to be its government buildings. Tekirova was no exception in this manner. Its public school was a massive, salmon-coloured edifice, emblazoned with Ataturk's quote, "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peace_at_Home,_Peace_in_the_World" target="_blank"><i>Peace at home, peace in the world</i>.</a>"<br />
<br />
In the last decade, the school's new administration had added their own, less-meaningful and more hilarious motto: "<i>We are the best until someone better comes along.</i>" I was really puzzled by this slogan; it was a perfect admission of ineptitude if there ever was one. How could people, school administrators no less - be so stupid? Then again, <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2013/11/nationalism-zoology-and-monster-art.html" target="_blank">Turkish administrators generally seemed to have weird and oppressive ideas about what kind of places schools should be.</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoa1ZBYlilLzklPADRJ4BFzYSiMWtURvrPapAi-CySlCcNilN-Zgu9JxPbrqZkT7g-O2YfgWDe3a3Stvi9Ft0Maws80K-tZR4KHEw3bcFChJ91QYZ8GEl5mJN5MXt8qYCucbJ8kqIM2w/s1600/l02p26.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoa1ZBYlilLzklPADRJ4BFzYSiMWtURvrPapAi-CySlCcNilN-Zgu9JxPbrqZkT7g-O2YfgWDe3a3Stvi9Ft0Maws80K-tZR4KHEw3bcFChJ91QYZ8GEl5mJN5MXt8qYCucbJ8kqIM2w/s640/l02p26.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
More kitsch details abounded around the town. This power transformer was decked out with fake stone walls and geometric chimneys in imitation of an old-time Lycian house.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLD82uYA8IiDJ4W23VFt_7-zmNeOIe7Gs34nJfbaV9JCWgToQvTictjoIxYb5qxGk85nNSHRlYJpQpJIYBdT5RB8mlpjCMl4vmLz4NmKaTXmr4tF62qw2SBZK7LkKbt9VVNNVkDGNhWk/s1600/l02p16.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLD82uYA8IiDJ4W23VFt_7-zmNeOIe7Gs34nJfbaV9JCWgToQvTictjoIxYb5qxGk85nNSHRlYJpQpJIYBdT5RB8mlpjCMl4vmLz4NmKaTXmr4tF62qw2SBZK7LkKbt9VVNNVkDGNhWk/s640/l02p16.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
This <b>fake Ionic column</b>, wrapped in LED lights and standing pitifully alone in front of massive mountains, seemed to me like the embodiment of human impermanence in Tekirova.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWHF2MaR25bWFMcigg1Mb33LqroD4LxoccPUNrhUCorzT3x2V7k-GbLhBd1rqJiPA9aM9hfRCdj312iR1LYkdhV7zNIRZx15EvQEFoabcd4jniptEflKxGiSuWOeEmCFw86ZSVSJ0sJU/s1600/l02p25.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWHF2MaR25bWFMcigg1Mb33LqroD4LxoccPUNrhUCorzT3x2V7k-GbLhBd1rqJiPA9aM9hfRCdj312iR1LYkdhV7zNIRZx15EvQEFoabcd4jniptEflKxGiSuWOeEmCFw86ZSVSJ0sJU/s640/l02p25.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
This region, and much of Turkey, was extremely rich in untapped reserves of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outsider_art" target="_blank">outsider art</a>. I discovered an <b>extremely cheerful series of naive mosaics</b>, depicting various animals, on a wall that ran along a long, empty road. Here are some cute, fat birds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_fHmQk2ArLykef8CTS3Vn62-AqOaOzuWNcxyWAGyrr_ZtR2hLatHwBOwfofzRTWH2SNbThPA2F3P-bbx8RhzzQzF0D7X7rEZFkD8LCQnbw5-HKKDqTm8uy_K9kpYRsI_1kb086rNVtc/s1600/l02p24.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_fHmQk2ArLykef8CTS3Vn62-AqOaOzuWNcxyWAGyrr_ZtR2hLatHwBOwfofzRTWH2SNbThPA2F3P-bbx8RhzzQzF0D7X7rEZFkD8LCQnbw5-HKKDqTm8uy_K9kpYRsI_1kb086rNVtc/s640/l02p24.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A rabbit and a fox.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLyalPr2b9Ej50v9KZblhaVC30jpw_yNlsTWGol2kbzcAMqaxKWNrJJUYpdtnbrsHDTBaoJsiFw4kcB5U6smLbSjbIqw-Q8xYtoc2xCc_60x755okMnK06YmogZVHh90MCC0NXYeFU-A/s1600/l02p23.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLyalPr2b9Ej50v9KZblhaVC30jpw_yNlsTWGol2kbzcAMqaxKWNrJJUYpdtnbrsHDTBaoJsiFw4kcB5U6smLbSjbIqw-Q8xYtoc2xCc_60x755okMnK06YmogZVHh90MCC0NXYeFU-A/s640/l02p23.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Chickens? Or a turkey and a quail?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwcdwxQVaJxJ6-v6JHaH6dyJJKE4mqlK04L8ch9KpiXmGw-wHHOwuKRjHZ4vZXebZDzDbETAhB68cZ9cDglZZ3LuJ9m51WlAcDzK91jPBtwSU0IMYfy55bbj-53p58eubxP-5w_oTQb9g/s1600/l02p22.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwcdwxQVaJxJ6-v6JHaH6dyJJKE4mqlK04L8ch9KpiXmGw-wHHOwuKRjHZ4vZXebZDzDbETAhB68cZ9cDglZZ3LuJ9m51WlAcDzK91jPBtwSU0IMYfy55bbj-53p58eubxP-5w_oTQb9g/s640/l02p22.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A dangerous, lobster-like scorpion.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iWodTMmG4sBTOcdIB5CRl2uX5gXUTnsyICDza9fAbB9WFPwrlolyhbEOOUGFDshrP6Sntd8z4-Ai11yQN95aTEDDx4CSKrQtvWKLk_Of8OJuCi39YJSB3OTi1OfnzTNCErOg3opl7iI/s1600/l02p21.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iWodTMmG4sBTOcdIB5CRl2uX5gXUTnsyICDza9fAbB9WFPwrlolyhbEOOUGFDshrP6Sntd8z4-Ai11yQN95aTEDDx4CSKrQtvWKLk_Of8OJuCi39YJSB3OTi1OfnzTNCErOg3opl7iI/s640/l02p21.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A wonderfully-stylized deer. This artist had a serious talent in simplifying the forms of animals.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcsF5Ejx81JzKTMvm_TFnTEpUXDZTkVYRaq4LuIY8wkxIRGTppohPxrvYNGgurx5vFlM8J8s8Ga5c82D0KN9ONA7RxUFES1HjcwQ9f6bzxOwK-DouXXcUj92rLq_DpqY0-fwXw_HL2dzk/s1600/l02p20.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcsF5Ejx81JzKTMvm_TFnTEpUXDZTkVYRaq4LuIY8wkxIRGTppohPxrvYNGgurx5vFlM8J8s8Ga5c82D0KN9ONA7RxUFES1HjcwQ9f6bzxOwK-DouXXcUj92rLq_DpqY0-fwXw_HL2dzk/s640/l02p20.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A black ram, complete with testicles represented by two bits of dark stone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6RW1aEg7-dZRkY_Hyw4kcfMyW09puD3FTU9ygJKMP6BHGa_2Dn6fQ8Lu7pATJ1jXnT73DcnrSdEoro7ODtG0_iMd5s9Q5sjyHOesqMJzbaKz4Anihn3AGpjU4xDBLABKKvRX3wSBhlGo/s1600/l02p17.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6RW1aEg7-dZRkY_Hyw4kcfMyW09puD3FTU9ygJKMP6BHGa_2Dn6fQ8Lu7pATJ1jXnT73DcnrSdEoro7ODtG0_iMd5s9Q5sjyHOesqMJzbaKz4Anihn3AGpjU4xDBLABKKvRX3wSBhlGo/s640/l02p17.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A fat turtle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuyH5n7bclc3zJZVAZbKm8mmRYl4JMdb-8rIHSNKN3cDPclTAbQ9Z2bdXfwxTwKSpQ0c_E1FzVv_hyqRLCtpoJOb-IVnysZiroq-LXZRJVt_UfaMa729XG3X4U4SrzqoJXFMsEAZ1Q5dY/s1600/l02p19.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuyH5n7bclc3zJZVAZbKm8mmRYl4JMdb-8rIHSNKN3cDPclTAbQ9Z2bdXfwxTwKSpQ0c_E1FzVv_hyqRLCtpoJOb-IVnysZiroq-LXZRJVt_UfaMa729XG3X4U4SrzqoJXFMsEAZ1Q5dY/s640/l02p19.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A white dog with a brown head. This was the magnum opus of this nameless artist. His work reminded me of <a href="https://www.google.com.tr/search?q=bill%20traylor&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMI79Tgna2jyAIVBAksCh3-aAep&biw=1159&bih=633" target="_blank">Bill Traylor's</a> striking, primitive art.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaueFEi14YcijvQbWq3oyMHPM0UU95ouDn8CG6TimONBrO0XC6DkT9YUXA_4BjYj3CdPJbl_J4BDnqDW_1mhUFd0dHH2QOZ_H5CAdhKK9TrHh779A2WIc0lbmS0Mq6kRtPZkXZGRtMAcw/s1600/l02p27.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaueFEi14YcijvQbWq3oyMHPM0UU95ouDn8CG6TimONBrO0XC6DkT9YUXA_4BjYj3CdPJbl_J4BDnqDW_1mhUFd0dHH2QOZ_H5CAdhKK9TrHh779A2WIc0lbmS0Mq6kRtPZkXZGRtMAcw/s640/l02p27.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I kept walking to the outskirts of the town. I passed the local <b>Rixos </b>resort, a five-star establishment known for its links to the government. At the back of the hotel, a statue of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attalus_II_Philadelphus" target="_blank">Attalos</a>, the legendary Greek king who founded the city of Antalya, lay discarded among a heap of broken furniture. This particular hotel was known to be one of the preferred vacation spots for Turkey's President Erdogan. Perhaps the statue was too indecent, too non-Turkish, or both, for Turkey's capricious new president.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmY0nvELWhJ2qljdmtU9ISTTqhaJZ9eYeAWhuyHeFY-r_zqKna8eE5DGWCUUz5lw5yfYn7wA-6Y2TpNKCs6afWjM1MJJvCruHmb1wQQkZWYJgSbPK70gD4voTmxzSeRY6ri8kdfJ07xM/s1600/l02p28.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmY0nvELWhJ2qljdmtU9ISTTqhaJZ9eYeAWhuyHeFY-r_zqKna8eE5DGWCUUz5lw5yfYn7wA-6Y2TpNKCs6afWjM1MJJvCruHmb1wQQkZWYJgSbPK70gD4voTmxzSeRY6ri8kdfJ07xM/s640/l02p28.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
A security guard on the Rixos beachfront first stopped me for trespassing, then gave detailed directions to Phaselis upon learning I was not a bad guy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0AbLGaPNz-zYIgvMBQSrQ22lD-1RC-QP2H32mkLV6adVBkmYgy3hEcfgtJKcSVv828lAIpFVT3ixn8q49m26HVCgKmnX8MSn6qeV_EEkfTNiYMyAc1ojb2MMh6I_wzJfH9sndCL186DI/s1600/l02p29.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0AbLGaPNz-zYIgvMBQSrQ22lD-1RC-QP2H32mkLV6adVBkmYgy3hEcfgtJKcSVv828lAIpFVT3ixn8q49m26HVCgKmnX8MSn6qeV_EEkfTNiYMyAc1ojb2MMh6I_wzJfH9sndCL186DI/s640/l02p29.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The town's streets ended few hundred meters later, and I emerged into seemingly pristine hillside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0cPF-m6GN482d_FSiaO36IRpl7zGTwtuckQZqN3_mISBRQy1FIiftnbU_mJfp5xmackQDBruJJOMqjPEbfq2EhjplgsdIkTabxpSe8-byd2-CkdKdG4cxI_4wNMJQJjFMXHynEM3Qd1o/s1600/l02p29b.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0cPF-m6GN482d_FSiaO36IRpl7zGTwtuckQZqN3_mISBRQy1FIiftnbU_mJfp5xmackQDBruJJOMqjPEbfq2EhjplgsdIkTabxpSe8-byd2-CkdKdG4cxI_4wNMJQJjFMXHynEM3Qd1o/s640/l02p29b.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
It felt refreshing to be out of Tekirova, and I was also happy to be carrying a much-lighter backpack. I climbed the small hill and had my lunch on its summit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqyAu3IG3VKG3R8bL16_en7sB4gWhl4zg3F0-MXm1V_8JLe2FxXu1MHB3_oASb_WYLWtEQjZ8HiCrnBZ2r3gft0sow1IpAC6o38LKEoeGekBQPoEkfN2lED3ypSaJuW4C5LthFADih8g/s1600/l02p30.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqyAu3IG3VKG3R8bL16_en7sB4gWhl4zg3F0-MXm1V_8JLe2FxXu1MHB3_oASb_WYLWtEQjZ8HiCrnBZ2r3gft0sow1IpAC6o38LKEoeGekBQPoEkfN2lED3ypSaJuW4C5LthFADih8g/s640/l02p30.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The view from the hill. The Rixos Hotel's spires were visible on the far right. The cluster of four little islands off the shore was famous as a local diving site.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyxOa-FBbTgoy-9gcuTiBSvWbwskqJ1kDWjwaf_RpFe7WtwC_3aFRpyG616CJKEUcU6LvK0YbZJWnfPXjmSWkEbjsdA7eKtTQiDvcUF_K59OtAqBhh55t8M5HiSPpGEUMsmYXjqf9GybI/s1600/l02p47.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyxOa-FBbTgoy-9gcuTiBSvWbwskqJ1kDWjwaf_RpFe7WtwC_3aFRpyG616CJKEUcU6LvK0YbZJWnfPXjmSWkEbjsdA7eKtTQiDvcUF_K59OtAqBhh55t8M5HiSPpGEUMsmYXjqf9GybI/s640/l02p47.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I continued walking towards Phaselis. The descending face of the the hill was home to a dizzying variety of lichens, mosses and fungi.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZJnpcH7zFekmset8dG2FwNLGcQwtlBfCFsXMFE0E6q4HBX9NLCVcD6ACQIlIphkwGzYAa51ZlgpTFLoJWNyo_MogAN0Rtxq_Di56DbxUnWeb9MivQt-BAbKTmhZD0BnRmpLO6pruHRc/s1600/l02p31.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzpDvSZzXLWbge46byRQZFIxxcZZCLKdGDO9X_QGylQqzFlTWKEXJ3RmrdkqHC-teIaRfgMXvIGhHUyLiL6-v86TJKgWtVJJHnNUGA_ctl9T8UldgxCSNV1AZmqGTRavG6PdfqONnkDjM/s1600/l02p35.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzpDvSZzXLWbge46byRQZFIxxcZZCLKdGDO9X_QGylQqzFlTWKEXJ3RmrdkqHC-teIaRfgMXvIGhHUyLiL6-v86TJKgWtVJJHnNUGA_ctl9T8UldgxCSNV1AZmqGTRavG6PdfqONnkDjM/s640/l02p35.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I spent half an hour taking macro shots of various lichens and mosses.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZJnpcH7zFekmset8dG2FwNLGcQwtlBfCFsXMFE0E6q4HBX9NLCVcD6ACQIlIphkwGzYAa51ZlgpTFLoJWNyo_MogAN0Rtxq_Di56DbxUnWeb9MivQt-BAbKTmhZD0BnRmpLO6pruHRc/s1600/l02p31.jpg"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yRuiecxcgblUUhSepyJOiUUZEGdmDtD-_VhCiafW7DxXdwyJghT-yBFCK1DUs6p3lrB8I3ozqUlDSzvacBcBsqZKjczP0g8fQf8LL0I5AOP_Df-RQ_GNRHbO-kfNNW52t5AfLcWkNx4/s1600/l02p36.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yRuiecxcgblUUhSepyJOiUUZEGdmDtD-_VhCiafW7DxXdwyJghT-yBFCK1DUs6p3lrB8I3ozqUlDSzvacBcBsqZKjczP0g8fQf8LL0I5AOP_Df-RQ_GNRHbO-kfNNW52t5AfLcWkNx4/s640/l02p36.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The diversity of plants, even on a single boulder, was staggering.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1i83ljaZr0gx8hsXzvu7ODUy6hRM6UcsmFTvD7ZpqQYvMUHb0mlUbWtnWUqnjTC7_J40HhQ_FP4FfFBOA7vbnhaABiSwc-DcreWJw46GEhlGIU4OaC22ZQd3FVSWAIukezTK301_WAo/s1600/l02p37.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1i83ljaZr0gx8hsXzvu7ODUy6hRM6UcsmFTvD7ZpqQYvMUHb0mlUbWtnWUqnjTC7_J40HhQ_FP4FfFBOA7vbnhaABiSwc-DcreWJw46GEhlGIU4OaC22ZQd3FVSWAIukezTK301_WAo/s640/l02p37.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I wished I could shrink in size, so that I could tumble and play among them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqaYlyIZGOV8GP46SC3v5KZFiz8pXSYZWlY48xK0bqPD0Z8mGPwdEv7U6shZvox-qhhe7Oe9Y1GgybJoJNULeOLpD4rRRRVCPmS9w2V_-tn78Y4RGG5pO1KO-7vUsO1kt_GU8VazRxosA/s1600/l02p38.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqaYlyIZGOV8GP46SC3v5KZFiz8pXSYZWlY48xK0bqPD0Z8mGPwdEv7U6shZvox-qhhe7Oe9Y1GgybJoJNULeOLpD4rRRRVCPmS9w2V_-tn78Y4RGG5pO1KO-7vUsO1kt_GU8VazRxosA/s640/l02p38.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2oGZPTduLGxHV5Si19Pq1wJ8hXqR8ohYridat5ZuZGncMQbsBXGGsxWvQhbIRIdbUb329jjO7SrfjlwDoQfo_2NoBy0s0mn8K2VChJAatg17c8OXzVsXZ0vUHDGfxHpB8OofcScKfwYI/s1600/l02p39.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2oGZPTduLGxHV5Si19Pq1wJ8hXqR8ohYridat5ZuZGncMQbsBXGGsxWvQhbIRIdbUb329jjO7SrfjlwDoQfo_2NoBy0s0mn8K2VChJAatg17c8OXzVsXZ0vUHDGfxHpB8OofcScKfwYI/s640/l02p39.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTe4fCHghkrRbO0RONSy1g2rUaVNAOPcoOWvY65Pqv4V8_5XLWkUgSf6hBsF5u4qMZbXWj85UDJlqWlcO2wAD6Ai3pIE6qJVdSAUgGbXgnzdBPT_WO6T_sQc86d_MWM-uoBIhvGEeEFOo/s1600/l02p39b.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTe4fCHghkrRbO0RONSy1g2rUaVNAOPcoOWvY65Pqv4V8_5XLWkUgSf6hBsF5u4qMZbXWj85UDJlqWlcO2wAD6Ai3pIE6qJVdSAUgGbXgnzdBPT_WO6T_sQc86d_MWM-uoBIhvGEeEFOo/s640/l02p39b.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZJnpcH7zFekmset8dG2FwNLGcQwtlBfCFsXMFE0E6q4HBX9NLCVcD6ACQIlIphkwGzYAa51ZlgpTFLoJWNyo_MogAN0Rtxq_Di56DbxUnWeb9MivQt-BAbKTmhZD0BnRmpLO6pruHRc/s640/l02p31.jpg" width="640" /><br />
These unidentified silver-white plants lent a further unearthly aspect to the undergrowth. I chewed some of their leaves, they had a minty aroma.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bhyphenhyphenweHnMw5mMfIgIWhUbSCtE4naO_aooAJgu_NzIZ-jcSwwnxVlR0IL2JakqatmqEhQ2psAGCfJ4b8465ZwmXoiVXZM_eA2ZCfdsHPxyXIIWSEKucH6pdrR3vvTycnwXIly4bTtS4lU/s1600/l02p33.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bhyphenhyphenweHnMw5mMfIgIWhUbSCtE4naO_aooAJgu_NzIZ-jcSwwnxVlR0IL2JakqatmqEhQ2psAGCfJ4b8465ZwmXoiVXZM_eA2ZCfdsHPxyXIIWSEKucH6pdrR3vvTycnwXIly4bTtS4lU/s640/l02p33.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Dazzling purple-pink flowers (<i>Gladiolus sp.?</i>) punctuated the beautiful landscape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_d_q7Yv9dzGZI_p-l_MC-ZOKXjNMSx5vmgNRquw7_HjKzMHplbusb4-rfVUbapDZuD04IPI4dYtLE6kAhwWzZxqdPqdIX-lvIncrvbpQYk5CAtq4WGfOKDNRBt2sXiuDCZSlATz7-tS0/s1600/l02p32.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_d_q7Yv9dzGZI_p-l_MC-ZOKXjNMSx5vmgNRquw7_HjKzMHplbusb4-rfVUbapDZuD04IPI4dYtLE6kAhwWzZxqdPqdIX-lvIncrvbpQYk5CAtq4WGfOKDNRBt2sXiuDCZSlATz7-tS0/s640/l02p32.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I uncovered plenty of <b>scorpions </b>on the moist hillside. This big (4-5 cm. long) bruiser was a <i>Mesobuthus gibbosus</i>. One of the key points of identifying poisonous scorpions was looking at the thickness of their tails and pincers. Scorpions with thick pincers usually needed no further weapons and were not dangerous. Slim-pincered, thick-tailed varieties, like this one, however, could be dangerous.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2N_1PAaf_8LPCh6Nkc2-Tvrfp4e40aTE32BBh8Y53o7K4OACFBtCAeNAbS7hg1x-74WmJlXb8z9OQ5aHTwF8l2DuMPCti60jvq_v7bBT-NeJbM0c9k5xiy1xh0UoXf1PSjfEeRP7x-NM/s1600/l02p40.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2N_1PAaf_8LPCh6Nkc2-Tvrfp4e40aTE32BBh8Y53o7K4OACFBtCAeNAbS7hg1x-74WmJlXb8z9OQ5aHTwF8l2DuMPCti60jvq_v7bBT-NeJbM0c9k5xiy1xh0UoXf1PSjfEeRP7x-NM/s640/l02p40.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Another scorpion was this smaller, softer-bodied form with thick, reddish claws. I think it was something from the genus <i>Euscorpius</i>, perhaps the <a href="http://www.science.marshall.edu/fet/euscorpius/p2014_184.pdf" target="_blank">newly-described</a> <i>Euscorpius gocmeni</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QMbWZgN0hDbiwi9k80TiWtrA6UDXYPfPEHSfXuDPAkdyGUSS1xFxNQ1Bl2XfOjofiQPEyLQ3yQVqJexNAKiUCQJ6LRQPyXspqDLe2UB3Ove6TO05ZGtkAYQft7oM4gLV6fbsJlwGQs4/s1600/l02p41.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QMbWZgN0hDbiwi9k80TiWtrA6UDXYPfPEHSfXuDPAkdyGUSS1xFxNQ1Bl2XfOjofiQPEyLQ3yQVqJexNAKiUCQJ6LRQPyXspqDLe2UB3Ove6TO05ZGtkAYQft7oM4gLV6fbsJlwGQs4/s640/l02p41.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Spiders were there too. These <b>nursery web spiders</b>, <i>Pisaura sp</i>., were running all over the moss and lichens with their graceful, finger-like legs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMRQqFouNUPuifR05jx1e__xwPnwgiOjBTpAO-oqk0mIqTm-JOTFpFZhnT1fOiY7QDPzucMbgUYHYNQYXCubNC6j8eX-WrJcSzkFpvSZZyi2DCMKZl1g7-66aCAmi-MJwpAjHubMdwvnI/s1600/l02p42.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMRQqFouNUPuifR05jx1e__xwPnwgiOjBTpAO-oqk0mIqTm-JOTFpFZhnT1fOiY7QDPzucMbgUYHYNQYXCubNC6j8eX-WrJcSzkFpvSZZyi2DCMKZl1g7-66aCAmi-MJwpAjHubMdwvnI/s640/l02p42.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I saw three different kinds, or perhaps three different morphs of one kind of <i>Pisaura. </i>I really loved this cheetah-yellow variety, with its tangle of pipe-like legs and friendly, smiley "face" of six eyes.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">:)</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVmoa_wVz6yRZ-7jtabYbiEOByn760-H6OmWyGkfgyifeaAptXc9MIjfvc9BEDvj-FUmqfwk8p1NvKYHts8n-e5pcOg9MvT6qAuGZtrdN4c9GDfxsdhdERggAimkrdKOF-9V20cAC9YyM/s1600/l02p43.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVmoa_wVz6yRZ-7jtabYbiEOByn760-H6OmWyGkfgyifeaAptXc9MIjfvc9BEDvj-FUmqfwk8p1NvKYHts8n-e5pcOg9MvT6qAuGZtrdN4c9GDfxsdhdERggAimkrdKOF-9V20cAC9YyM/s640/l02p43.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
All these spiders had leg spans of about 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This smaller specimen with a characteristically angular abdomen may have been a male. They were all out looking for smaller insects or spiders to eat, and members of their own species to mate with. In some <i>Pisaura </i>species, males took their females out to "dinner dates," presenting them with a freshly-killed insect as a "gift" to facilitate mating.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpptmPAeYtP-6Uj0W14WsWc8rwbZxcIOCgWyD-Ebr1LpEwuxZU38g8D8EmAC0ez-dfmFMu0vDhlH7BLK-Nwal8awoMPO2eA_TPTwXEwJZFvf2xUy_ZmW66JfiiV_hkV5dkR30vDcwn77o/s1600/l02p44.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpptmPAeYtP-6Uj0W14WsWc8rwbZxcIOCgWyD-Ebr1LpEwuxZU38g8D8EmAC0ez-dfmFMu0vDhlH7BLK-Nwal8awoMPO2eA_TPTwXEwJZFvf2xUy_ZmW66JfiiV_hkV5dkR30vDcwn77o/s640/l02p44.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The gem of the mossy hillside, however, was this amazing <b>worm snake</b>, <i>Xerotyphlops vermicularis</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrYoQbLAumdUABDeJN-UPP6iQwxZsDxnnkOH1vKkcjXAPIlIOE8XGY6853DgUacZolJjxq-t_ip9sP5T8cUmFQGMJh3YKHW910Gk3Hw4YFzKUiOoBpsp2bUSjPXPTm2MKckp_Zmv7cE4/s1600/l02p45.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrYoQbLAumdUABDeJN-UPP6iQwxZsDxnnkOH1vKkcjXAPIlIOE8XGY6853DgUacZolJjxq-t_ip9sP5T8cUmFQGMJh3YKHW910Gk3Hw4YFzKUiOoBpsp2bUSjPXPTm2MKckp_Zmv7cE4/s640/l02p45.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
It looked like a rivulet of pink mercury, terminating in a tiny head with comically small eyes and a mask-like snout. I had <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2014/02/small-snakes.html" target="_blank">last seen these animals in nearby Olympos, more than eleven years ago.</a> It was such a pleasure to run into one again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIk3FGCsvsqx93kIjjOWJ1slNEeKrp4vL7ex3BSMmMnrUYRRSkk6DT7ztDk2OCohRXiBJyUxLSQm6BQcyot7XPlXVMGaCBeoEvLKPpdCTdu0Aqrc_ijttfpi4ZZLhQYdvdZz63izjc5g/s1600/l02p46.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIk3FGCsvsqx93kIjjOWJ1slNEeKrp4vL7ex3BSMmMnrUYRRSkk6DT7ztDk2OCohRXiBJyUxLSQm6BQcyot7XPlXVMGaCBeoEvLKPpdCTdu0Aqrc_ijttfpi4ZZLhQYdvdZz63izjc5g/s640/l02p46.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Another reptilian encounter was this <b>juniper skink</b>, <i>Ablepharus kitaibelii, </i>or the closely-related <i>A. chernovii</i>. It looked like a tiny snake, but if you looked closely, you can see that it had small, perfectly-formed arms and legs.<br />
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Seeing all these arachnids and reptiles in rapid succession brought me to a state of <b>almost mystical joy</b>. Encountering these tiny, silent denizens of the undergrowth was truly a privilege.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeIahZ8QEmOuTDp5rsxq5wpGj0V4MMfFYTCP3bSrW35FO2mt1nAscsXjScgLdKZjW64jjY5cOjIF_ctOj3vvF5lFfAVsYuq9hyphenhyphenpqE1tiEMxTtd6vpkIm8SwGmoYF69UpIbKhh6EBcg1uI/s1600/l02p48.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeIahZ8QEmOuTDp5rsxq5wpGj0V4MMfFYTCP3bSrW35FO2mt1nAscsXjScgLdKZjW64jjY5cOjIF_ctOj3vvF5lFfAVsYuq9hyphenhyphenpqE1tiEMxTtd6vpkIm8SwGmoYF69UpIbKhh6EBcg1uI/s640/l02p48.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I soon finished descending the mossy hill, and emerged into a grove full of massive <i>Eucalyptus </i>trees, (plus two inexplicable red velvet chairs). The <i>Eucalyptus </i>trees were by now essential fixtures of the Mediterranean landscape, but in reality they were an introduced species, all the way from Australia.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGMjE76iuNmTlwfkv0TuAE9QUOVcrxXcy2Bgayflqozf5ylXeSxKFh45XIEjinDbeDOEb_sbjye0Ja9O9_si5qIBKNgAqpiUvHq0NnthdekdQY-wYc2C2_DjOmKGtoHeDnjh_QnLb6QM/s1600/l02p49.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGMjE76iuNmTlwfkv0TuAE9QUOVcrxXcy2Bgayflqozf5ylXeSxKFh45XIEjinDbeDOEb_sbjye0Ja9O9_si5qIBKNgAqpiUvHq0NnthdekdQY-wYc2C2_DjOmKGtoHeDnjh_QnLb6QM/s640/l02p49.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I walked out of the "Australian grove" and continued towards another hill en route to Phaselis. My print-out maps were more useful in this day of trekking, there were no unsurpassable mountains on the way.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr5_tyRbUNvy65GOUIjB5RDuaSD6KOpOQKoBgpCNO844XiOgZf9PUp0lyxUvJ2ubx3zseTC5Xgkp6z4ySCBoU5DJGZntBTnt3NvGdQOxRTGub28CHwQ8W33UcpEjD8yv1UjAGvJTum1M/s1600/l02p50.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr5_tyRbUNvy65GOUIjB5RDuaSD6KOpOQKoBgpCNO844XiOgZf9PUp0lyxUvJ2ubx3zseTC5Xgkp6z4ySCBoU5DJGZntBTnt3NvGdQOxRTGub28CHwQ8W33UcpEjD8yv1UjAGvJTum1M/s640/l02p50.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A view of the second hill, with charming <i>Euphorbia </i>plants in the undergrowth.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDyQnt9kOMsvqO6JcT5qKYUO3waKJtRvdlsMplRmJBn7_S5bdA8hEvBGlqHqBrPeDjiIl5c8vjFdkx7LoHWAhGOruqO6ChHZNZ4AWtcDFFQGr4AgC_RgfnjXQ225z_oLntm7aqHzJK9M/s1600/l02p51.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDyQnt9kOMsvqO6JcT5qKYUO3waKJtRvdlsMplRmJBn7_S5bdA8hEvBGlqHqBrPeDjiIl5c8vjFdkx7LoHWAhGOruqO6ChHZNZ4AWtcDFFQGr4AgC_RgfnjXQ225z_oLntm7aqHzJK9M/s640/l02p51.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Once up on the hill, I followed an old stone wall that straddled a long, rising ridge towards the seashore. Beautiful clusters of silver-white <i>Verbascums </i>and those other, unidentifiable herbs were clustered all around the hillside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRxwQbYmDlhDXCOhL41MaAJZGuBEV1APgLojlLDdl0gTXoxEjWCCdtCCJOexkg6RhIabt57bikTYTYZoOAesOTS3N9iS0Z-rvglFRYAO5Ph26MF8srYALsKqlUPnbCVV_l2-bqCfFJUQc/s1600/l02p53.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRxwQbYmDlhDXCOhL41MaAJZGuBEV1APgLojlLDdl0gTXoxEjWCCdtCCJOexkg6RhIabt57bikTYTYZoOAesOTS3N9iS0Z-rvglFRYAO5Ph26MF8srYALsKqlUPnbCVV_l2-bqCfFJUQc/s640/l02p53.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A cute mantis nymph was walking among the sliver plants.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJQi7bqa8uKhuZ9u9VBSWDbG8scmgKuBKEhZxq2SheKQvo1dHcku7AlHWTTpqhX3nVHn2PGzIty1Mny7RPFjBRWKtL7sUMuLa03oKaPBGfQIeWbWh8RTgE6vY5y5XnkjN3ZB7pmceBcv8/s1600/l02p55.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJQi7bqa8uKhuZ9u9VBSWDbG8scmgKuBKEhZxq2SheKQvo1dHcku7AlHWTTpqhX3nVHn2PGzIty1Mny7RPFjBRWKtL7sUMuLa03oKaPBGfQIeWbWh8RTgE6vY5y5XnkjN3ZB7pmceBcv8/s640/l02p55.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Fat jumping spiders prowled among the boulders, very much like the "teddy bear" spiders I saw in Göynük the previous day. These guys, however, belonged to a different, spectacularly-coloured species, <i>Philaeus chrysops</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX6yHwzw7WFSlQZKpZx0UhyrsGLm55-Bp6KW52XMdzys74xbsX-m-0Rqs6O6-r-fkAkNaLzwmSthk7PwHDRb1WR2VjFV2RzONOR7EG-e40Ak-DRb5WSTEfJomWUCc6tjwJlOqlXBpZQV0/s1600/l02p54.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX6yHwzw7WFSlQZKpZx0UhyrsGLm55-Bp6KW52XMdzys74xbsX-m-0Rqs6O6-r-fkAkNaLzwmSthk7PwHDRb1WR2VjFV2RzONOR7EG-e40Ak-DRb5WSTEfJomWUCc6tjwJlOqlXBpZQV0/s640/l02p54.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Despite the spectacular colour difference, these spiders and the "teddy bears" of Göynük were actually closely-related species. It was interesting to see how different hills and mountains, only a few kilometres apart, were inhabited by different "tribes" of jumping spiders.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2is-E-_LHPKB5zYIHOFCiXMwf7PAaB1flDBy7XMC6e18vNp_H50TIMoCmeUVOTH9wD15cMfp-yHnIUou3brDJIzTOecjdJ-cTnTCLqv4K0dPsQUqphyphenhyphenl-bmJBi_9j530uNF86YojuIDU/s1600/l02p56.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2is-E-_LHPKB5zYIHOFCiXMwf7PAaB1flDBy7XMC6e18vNp_H50TIMoCmeUVOTH9wD15cMfp-yHnIUou3brDJIzTOecjdJ-cTnTCLqv4K0dPsQUqphyphenhyphenl-bmJBi_9j530uNF86YojuIDU/s640/l02p56.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I also saw this mystifying, tiny jumping spider with striking brown-and-white stripes. Its identity remains a complete mystery; maybe it was a juvenile <i>Philaeus chrysops</i>, or maybe something completely different.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_5BHOWg64Jd111627hrmw-Ox6hJHERBfY_MxBaK2XYgxnasf-fNTZX0u3P6TcoU4MT3N7SbPa53FUksTg6zzJ4QpAzfSN_H6ZH2Ijkpqxc87nONmn-0v3RIRooScP9G3l1O0LsoXjUhE/s1600/l02p57.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_5BHOWg64Jd111627hrmw-Ox6hJHERBfY_MxBaK2XYgxnasf-fNTZX0u3P6TcoU4MT3N7SbPa53FUksTg6zzJ4QpAzfSN_H6ZH2Ijkpqxc87nONmn-0v3RIRooScP9G3l1O0LsoXjUhE/s640/l02p57.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The jumping spiders' main prey seemed to be these tiny juvenile bush crickets, <i>Pholidoptera sp</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD-a4VdRRMKyK2e1t0ABwkQY7wuWc5Z3NwuryU3tvd9rLitLR2CLmyABB29PW-ZyKX5e4VXY9aeMQgf7JFPUGLe80I6ub_yD3OtbFrrm1Lbx4maweWMYDFezSmUtjkuHbUzhl59yFqtMk/s1600/l02p58.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD-a4VdRRMKyK2e1t0ABwkQY7wuWc5Z3NwuryU3tvd9rLitLR2CLmyABB29PW-ZyKX5e4VXY9aeMQgf7JFPUGLe80I6ub_yD3OtbFrrm1Lbx4maweWMYDFezSmUtjkuHbUzhl59yFqtMk/s640/l02p58.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
After climbing the final hill, I was rewarded with a spectacular view of the bay next to Tekirova. This cove was locally known as "Sundance Bay," after a bohemian holiday camp located there.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5pxKPp5DsjSQKNZhmVBPvu_CcHf3DXD7fyJwvl-moThnEUnZ0is1HDB8Cyebzq7K-1JtsrmH7YGCTx4Zhr7ztRqWGpsc30WqXo_bwFVCM-A3UjcwMFEbCNppN4HQzkvZArbJynixwLss/s1600/l02p59+panorama01.jpg"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5pxKPp5DsjSQKNZhmVBPvu_CcHf3DXD7fyJwvl-moThnEUnZ0is1HDB8Cyebzq7K-1JtsrmH7YGCTx4Zhr7ztRqWGpsc30WqXo_bwFVCM-A3UjcwMFEbCNppN4HQzkvZArbJynixwLss/s640/l02p59+panorama01.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I took these panoramic shots of the bay. You can click on them to see high-resolution views. The sea, the blossoming spring vegetation, the breezy trees... created a landscape of incredible beauty.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZvBkmGWhL2QYEioTfjnxkIfCsX_i2svraWgCTMZYwNZOUZyv7wHsvePTd6fKCoFjVLoYTR6J5cGSKmBgHmE2CxZSKutPlccDjkK9JNbHf4IKa3xrv2K-aKOOhkY9v74W9KEF6MXb0fyM/s1600/l02p59panorama03.jpg"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZvBkmGWhL2QYEioTfjnxkIfCsX_i2svraWgCTMZYwNZOUZyv7wHsvePTd6fKCoFjVLoYTR6J5cGSKmBgHmE2CxZSKutPlccDjkK9JNbHf4IKa3xrv2K-aKOOhkY9v74W9KEF6MXb0fyM/s640/l02p59panorama03.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A flock of grazing goats and geodesic-dome structures erected by the hippie camp were visible downhill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIi3VtVTCl6GMtDzn4trqJLH7avB_Yy2rh2HU9-MF4G-aMGIls7_Zd7XArcwBxxThWNa60zQVxc0fltmW-gdEA3pCugiLxTc1Bmsa_cTCNihh4IYfRA60I8U9r9uie29MW83oRDoFRC7Y/s1600/l02p59+0.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIi3VtVTCl6GMtDzn4trqJLH7avB_Yy2rh2HU9-MF4G-aMGIls7_Zd7XArcwBxxThWNa60zQVxc0fltmW-gdEA3pCugiLxTc1Bmsa_cTCNihh4IYfRA60I8U9r9uie29MW83oRDoFRC7Y/s640/l02p59+0.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The view facing Tekirova was almost as beautiful. A strangely bifurcated tree, a cairn of stones and associated strange bushes created a surreal composition. The undulating mountains in the extreme distance hugged the Çıralı coast, where I planned to walk in the following day.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31tS4W39Rj-_VGh7er6XbCP80PhlJ7yzyKXGpCov4WSUNj1FlVKjmc5XDd375UfRWOBh1oKrkD9SVgSTcnOOzyoyHPCnRspPmrKklw6B6QCtUzQOTcbcJFXKD3s6WYBDCBjZ11Mrw0E0/s1600/l02p60.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31tS4W39Rj-_VGh7er6XbCP80PhlJ7yzyKXGpCov4WSUNj1FlVKjmc5XDd375UfRWOBh1oKrkD9SVgSTcnOOzyoyHPCnRspPmrKklw6B6QCtUzQOTcbcJFXKD3s6WYBDCBjZ11Mrw0E0/s640/l02p60.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I walked down the hill and entered the <a href="http://www.sundancecamp.com/en" target="_blank">Sundance Camp</a> resort. The "namaste" types running the place kindly escorted me out of the premises, because I was "trespassing." They wouldn't let me have a drink on their cafe, even if I paid for it. I guessed this was as far as it went for their "open minded" hospitality.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPaIXh0jrL2hMiIDERaJfwWXtAE8KsJZ925O2hPM0gqSVE_V0D8cOD-KcHcRLymqX2-6m_hiBf1w1q910Jicn15T1eU9B4eCA9xhE9toIqbOOdj9-MROjWMJ-4ACDZthKGQPOdrLfnS2c/s1600/l02p61.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPaIXh0jrL2hMiIDERaJfwWXtAE8KsJZ925O2hPM0gqSVE_V0D8cOD-KcHcRLymqX2-6m_hiBf1w1q910Jicn15T1eU9B4eCA9xhE9toIqbOOdj9-MROjWMJ-4ACDZthKGQPOdrLfnS2c/s640/l02p61.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A shepherd was grazing her flock of goats on the riverbank opposite of Sundance Camp.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTSil-LG-ii90LTS47S7fo-x0k7DlR9Z3_9sq-gbbA5LWwOQ4YNpPnPyzYcOd-27IBxFAthmOe461JwounKYpCE3JV-fYYihLRIZYXGDjs0KArL7PxcCc2WCHfwNHm4EUFnKnNhrjAX8/s1600/l02p64.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTSil-LG-ii90LTS47S7fo-x0k7DlR9Z3_9sq-gbbA5LWwOQ4YNpPnPyzYcOd-27IBxFAthmOe461JwounKYpCE3JV-fYYihLRIZYXGDjs0KArL7PxcCc2WCHfwNHm4EUFnKnNhrjAX8/s640/l02p64.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A misty rain picked up for a few minutes. I took shelter beneath some oleander <i>(Nerium oleander)</i> trees and had a big snack with granola bars and leftover olive cakes from my breakfast.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh9_rcjobeubczVnle7jpPZuEuzlvLuOjsRcQBXU3Kz26VpXIb-feEej17bYuuzDEMuSLiB_eNGavhVALD4cNJ9VrV4fhih6PqqQr3hlXi6hpoaUNvrvOqRl7TAJp8XncPIU_kqcksPSo/s1600/l02p63.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh9_rcjobeubczVnle7jpPZuEuzlvLuOjsRcQBXU3Kz26VpXIb-feEej17bYuuzDEMuSLiB_eNGavhVALD4cNJ9VrV4fhih6PqqQr3hlXi6hpoaUNvrvOqRl7TAJp8XncPIU_kqcksPSo/s640/l02p63.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A mantis with striped eyes and a graceful, wingless body was also seeking cover beneath the same trees. Mantis classification is a tricky business, I got in touch with several mantis researchers to properly ID this guy and the several other mantids I saw on this trek.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87QxQFVPJz4o6ICsP_tt8osA3XdX1r9EO_RpikQnZn1rxEnjdS5A3QgMIxb0NB_pHr8Qdc6q_OBzgwZ45OqWLwBxDHFWw651FZUp4oGBkjd-mCeDWil7nF69i-K5WSu1L451h3uY2uPk/s1600/l02p66.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87QxQFVPJz4o6ICsP_tt8osA3XdX1r9EO_RpikQnZn1rxEnjdS5A3QgMIxb0NB_pHr8Qdc6q_OBzgwZ45OqWLwBxDHFWw651FZUp4oGBkjd-mCeDWil7nF69i-K5WSu1L451h3uY2uPk/s640/l02p66.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The rain subsided and I resumed my trek towards Phaselis. I really wanted to identify these colourful stone formations I saw en route, but I was a complete illiterate in geology.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0YkXKaSgVbs8MdDX68s2ACC0VXlDU3kt33HlaP61xvj3gsWR3vxOljRhfexFuKucsH48V_0ucwX5_MoV8BWThjTB81vt0WGibK1iBnCCRSK2NGhczhgiG8nvt9W2VVffyw8FBNjz-2I/s1600/l02p68.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0YkXKaSgVbs8MdDX68s2ACC0VXlDU3kt33HlaP61xvj3gsWR3vxOljRhfexFuKucsH48V_0ucwX5_MoV8BWThjTB81vt0WGibK1iBnCCRSK2NGhczhgiG8nvt9W2VVffyw8FBNjz-2I/s640/l02p68.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I was guided by the scanty painted-rock markers (one of them is visible on the left side of the picture), to another, smaller beach next to Sundance Bay.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8Z9L5s_w4ETQcBwMZPv-0XZ7BYVzDO129gfEw1FX8KHm0m9kMScW33lyvG8cdMoS74po7f94MUMOF42BrJILaQhSJq9KIRFvS6b7qkrOep3XuEUsIIdsPlBIi5nMkYrhTrs3YSwh-AE/s1600/l02p69.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8Z9L5s_w4ETQcBwMZPv-0XZ7BYVzDO129gfEw1FX8KHm0m9kMScW33lyvG8cdMoS74po7f94MUMOF42BrJILaQhSJq9KIRFvS6b7qkrOep3XuEUsIIdsPlBIi5nMkYrhTrs3YSwh-AE/s640/l02p69.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
I passed by two other trekkers on this second beach. We waved to each other from a distance and kept walking in the same direction.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1Jfbkd_WaNZbkaIhtzACkWx1a-1qK6zueqGyr1bYv3Y6UqIPi4y7o5hJ4tJPw1lKg9L5CzVryeC-oJUFTGAH177kCtP02ScGvtxXNaSJCw27VG8hNFto5aCBKPJiLSkaY4Apop5MzPg/s1600/l02p70panorama02.jpg"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1Jfbkd_WaNZbkaIhtzACkWx1a-1qK6zueqGyr1bYv3Y6UqIPi4y7o5hJ4tJPw1lKg9L5CzVryeC-oJUFTGAH177kCtP02ScGvtxXNaSJCw27VG8hNFto5aCBKPJiLSkaY4Apop5MzPg/s640/l02p70panorama02.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
The view of Sundance bay, from the beach next to it, was breathtaking. <span style="text-align: left;">Ancient pine trees were reaching serpentine branches down to the sand, and a rolling mist was drifting over the landscape.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81t-5MllN5TW1o3EQ7Wcha9QAlMto6RWkwOHk6s2k6glJI8n3bp8m301Z4-d0YE2ZXtMI8HSVmIbIg4ibMqsLGlZ3CmwXhb0qv76poLEnyiI2n-G6MymWPCHNoDy8SRMdypMv93Nnqak/s1600/l02p72.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81t-5MllN5TW1o3EQ7Wcha9QAlMto6RWkwOHk6s2k6glJI8n3bp8m301Z4-d0YE2ZXtMI8HSVmIbIg4ibMqsLGlZ3CmwXhb0qv76poLEnyiI2n-G6MymWPCHNoDy8SRMdypMv93Nnqak/s640/l02p72.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I walked on, into a grove of Mediterranean pines, and soon began seeing lamp posts, showers, and so on: signs of a touristic establishment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiADqGtW6IMUo2ZJrmHcuwoezNiTseQ2x_uslNzfSUrQKlfb3nQlnPJoAMggZlBfMkH9Fcex8JgntjZGGgXZYyEGpkYnCPKEC2zZmfp773U0SA39meV4Awu0Zc-4vWLZ3_XzaG4tAlMbu0/s1600/l02p71.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiADqGtW6IMUo2ZJrmHcuwoezNiTseQ2x_uslNzfSUrQKlfb3nQlnPJoAMggZlBfMkH9Fcex8JgntjZGGgXZYyEGpkYnCPKEC2zZmfp773U0SA39meV4Awu0Zc-4vWLZ3_XzaG4tAlMbu0/s640/l02p71.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ruins started cropping up as well. I had finally reached the outskirts of Phaselis.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8Ms80fNlxSrhecgnqVmeZfzITMUG3MF_IhVhv6YEHyH7s3LDIWDCPtUeU0zERUMXxagKU6GmUFAwSD0-bVKRxobG3EoNkifkoBCp2ulUhcx45cfSM2DDFQP0htLQGuE_g0DunKEiI8U/s1600/l02p74.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8Ms80fNlxSrhecgnqVmeZfzITMUG3MF_IhVhv6YEHyH7s3LDIWDCPtUeU0zERUMXxagKU6GmUFAwSD0-bVKRxobG3EoNkifkoBCp2ulUhcx45cfSM2DDFQP0htLQGuE_g0DunKEiI8U/s640/l02p74.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The internet was replete with tourist pictures from this famous site, so I kept photography from Phaselis to a minimum. The main attraction of the ruined city were these monumental aqueducts from the Roman era. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDvL6XY-Sv4cfrns989HBCJQRItbUU6IclKiKt-LbNkzwzZa2yiFA4QvXthHothqFC88ElzB_lVpL6EvofErvK653thAfutQX_fdUPN52tFddJfJHRfbjblyuNQHHkqeaN_UXfYTrAUk/s1600/l02p76.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDvL6XY-Sv4cfrns989HBCJQRItbUU6IclKiKt-LbNkzwzZa2yiFA4QvXthHothqFC88ElzB_lVpL6EvofErvK653thAfutQX_fdUPN52tFddJfJHRfbjblyuNQHHkqeaN_UXfYTrAUk/s640/l02p76.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The site also had a very picturesque harbour, where a solemn pine and a massive neighbours that looked like a tangle of pythons, grew in unusual proximity of the sea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIc8hj7O20B7kgsYS74foEFghOl-rAYaBW8WP_5GKeyC2XM3t55RQYzAptU_APs_NAHkMzD68OGvDMMfDGI6MnFqFjBzXAZdXtz1N02in5r4i0eEzehVKy-CWNnx8_1peglZFWiwjdo-4/s1600/l02p75.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIc8hj7O20B7kgsYS74foEFghOl-rAYaBW8WP_5GKeyC2XM3t55RQYzAptU_APs_NAHkMzD68OGvDMMfDGI6MnFqFjBzXAZdXtz1N02in5r4i0eEzehVKy-CWNnx8_1peglZFWiwjdo-4/s640/l02p75.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
A trio of Korean tourists were quick to notice the zen-like beauty of Phaselis harbour, and soon began photographing it with every picture-making device at their disposal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLuaxAk_KdaeWZlPClKaDI5yB5Q2wtVxyCi-JGkdkBYLhkiYx1NwexPN9CoauFnp2_d4EXfHMQCeHd9FdfvT92bwiUyNKS3_vSySoopgF95ZB-mVTCgupnhwI2atgmTYu93Hf7_642-4E/s1600/l02p77.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLuaxAk_KdaeWZlPClKaDI5yB5Q2wtVxyCi-JGkdkBYLhkiYx1NwexPN9CoauFnp2_d4EXfHMQCeHd9FdfvT92bwiUyNKS3_vSySoopgF95ZB-mVTCgupnhwI2atgmTYu93Hf7_642-4E/s640/l02p77.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I rested by the time-worn stone pillars of the harbour.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Zl2CjLKsdjafIc0SG0tPzMKuSdtZ8sIKZmC8tbUD0vlJiKTmP0ccjUQOkalrZJ-wRCQcW-S1jsDDNkYT1h4gLhc7ymsQA3FGKFALztAzyFdxQbYefmWhu8y-lAKTjWgeDhQGv-UJ1qc/s1600/l02p78.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Zl2CjLKsdjafIc0SG0tPzMKuSdtZ8sIKZmC8tbUD0vlJiKTmP0ccjUQOkalrZJ-wRCQcW-S1jsDDNkYT1h4gLhc7ymsQA3FGKFALztAzyFdxQbYefmWhu8y-lAKTjWgeDhQGv-UJ1qc/s640/l02p78.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
It was time for a bigger snack. I cut open another pack of tuna. Once again, the stale, salty meat felt delicious and extremely refreshing after my day-long trek.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBSWzxxOnqxrSAHhCgpdytWZM3pnma4lEcdh_njroMwR6maP38ijRqA70TmxoXm4_KV2SNpC0wkjWNnYOwtwpkMfP0byjpgveYBtEKJRYDOdYRAvj0Fb_0JLbfOya677PVT6Z7M9Ecw8/s1600/l02p79.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBSWzxxOnqxrSAHhCgpdytWZM3pnma4lEcdh_njroMwR6maP38ijRqA70TmxoXm4_KV2SNpC0wkjWNnYOwtwpkMfP0byjpgveYBtEKJRYDOdYRAvj0Fb_0JLbfOya677PVT6Z7M9Ecw8/s640/l02p79.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I now had to walk back to Tekirova, but a couple of guys luckily offered me a lift to the nearby highway, where I caught another minibus home. </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
A strange character on the minibus first asked me where I was from, (Istanbul) what I was doing with that big backpack, (trekking) and then playfully chided me; <i>"So you are taking a bus to Tekirova and back home you'll boast that you walked all the way, eh?" </i></div>
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I responded by saying that I had no such qualms, I was simply out here to look at animals, plants and ruins and showed him some of the photos I'd taken. Bossy guy was impressed: "<i>Take a load of this Istanbul kid, he's all laid-back and open-eyed!"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM5C3hEU-MEV2ChGDR1AlFlhWQ22hQhoopWV1f42BTMWpgf6TaUqFH109VU2H-47k80S4w11fZi_sA_oaRP2sPwvCBrdKaQkAOl80h4Gm7VN0K3MTwUqhed0SXLcciX5bQrArp5NeWAwQ/s1600/l02p80.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM5C3hEU-MEV2ChGDR1AlFlhWQ22hQhoopWV1f42BTMWpgf6TaUqFH109VU2H-47k80S4w11fZi_sA_oaRP2sPwvCBrdKaQkAOl80h4Gm7VN0K3MTwUqhed0SXLcciX5bQrArp5NeWAwQ/s640/l02p80.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I returned to Jasmine Hotel, took a shower and ventured back out to Tekirova in search of dinner. I also needed to use the internet in order to take care of some last-minute translation work.<br />
<br />
The hotel owner, a friendly <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zazas" target="_blank">Zaza</a> guy who had moved here a decade ago, gave me directions, and at my request took my portrait in the splendorously kitsch lobby. By now Jasmine Hotel had grown on me - I took a distinct liking for this Wes Anderson-esque establishment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjI8PTIEQByU864tj9uO_ceCLlS6Mg-hVLPlev9D9Azjpj0YlYO4MoWZ-iACd7KQQwV1RiW971jMwd9tGUezi1INhOst5372AnFHSlWf0rvcMHYc4EoHpqPfY5VaQa8Wc3oyRvwIeEEA/s1600/l02p81.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjI8PTIEQByU864tj9uO_ceCLlS6Mg-hVLPlev9D9Azjpj0YlYO4MoWZ-iACd7KQQwV1RiW971jMwd9tGUezi1INhOst5372AnFHSlWf0rvcMHYc4EoHpqPfY5VaQa8Wc3oyRvwIeEEA/s640/l02p81.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
There were two internet cafes in Tekirova. One was a horrible testosterone den packed with adolescent boys, playing games and endlessly swearing at each other. I skipped that, and visited the more charming, smaller one on one of the quiet back alleys of the town.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_m0cjRTkbm-oK5nqdJyOdWZ9k6YurluJ7yzWG7RnimSUVcu0BsD2jZkxvJ7ehZ2frAKSH1pxvnGN93Z0pYl8rFRElEkstyylKF64dB6IRB_0ALj9kVuORhy3wTae5owuQxfPI8-_ThiA/s1600/l02p82.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_m0cjRTkbm-oK5nqdJyOdWZ9k6YurluJ7yzWG7RnimSUVcu0BsD2jZkxvJ7ehZ2frAKSH1pxvnGN93Z0pYl8rFRElEkstyylKF64dB6IRB_0ALj9kVuORhy3wTae5owuQxfPI8-_ThiA/s640/l02p82.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The owners of this second internet cafe were an extremely kind and friendly family. They even offered me a free meal after I helped them sort out an issue with another foreign guest. I'd hit two birds with one stone.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYA0KKluhXypCkspNc781xEoNPjZYnS8YOCuzwyM27yG5AmUP8sPf54x2kBRcsHQNe_dRr_6k8ES3AT5iald35uQN8YFCAq3s_qXMHmRZcG6RgqTVU_Dj8encKpWOrwAS-z6NheIGhSE/s1600/l02p84.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYA0KKluhXypCkspNc781xEoNPjZYnS8YOCuzwyM27yG5AmUP8sPf54x2kBRcsHQNe_dRr_6k8ES3AT5iald35uQN8YFCAq3s_qXMHmRZcG6RgqTVU_Dj8encKpWOrwAS-z6NheIGhSE/s640/l02p84.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Tired, fed and satisfied, I crawled back to Jasmine Hotel and fell asleep under my room's garish red night-light. I had to gather a lot of strength for the following day, when I'd walk the long route from Tekirova to Çıralı.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-S-NvVuL4bbUWuLm6BxLgCsBRxyU20civYuP29r1MdngIDv3fKlFZ40LWH0H8uYldr7FTpe-kane0NdnuhDFTr_O4PJbkcuirmeyx2ldiPLKryT32IKyxBP_XN3tIjXgGxqP7TILX_0/s1600/l02pxx.jpg"><img border="0" height="578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-S-NvVuL4bbUWuLm6BxLgCsBRxyU20civYuP29r1MdngIDv3fKlFZ40LWH0H8uYldr7FTpe-kane0NdnuhDFTr_O4PJbkcuirmeyx2ldiPLKryT32IKyxBP_XN3tIjXgGxqP7TILX_0/s640/l02pxx.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This was the route I took on my second day.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Day Three: Tekirova to Çıralı</b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtqS9pY599o8OQA13QRCb0I0hueRXwLVeENyOiaMt4ZwKqdsfsNWmQZcO1yyklzoigN55Fh-u7EdXXAYTOdsXS6umvG9PA9yqHsFRj4junmlV8lhZ2HZJzlp1nzDzudlPsw9d6D4hLbw/s1600/l03p01.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtqS9pY599o8OQA13QRCb0I0hueRXwLVeENyOiaMt4ZwKqdsfsNWmQZcO1yyklzoigN55Fh-u7EdXXAYTOdsXS6umvG9PA9yqHsFRj4junmlV8lhZ2HZJzlp1nzDzudlPsw9d6D4hLbw/s640/l03p01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
My third day on the Lycian Trail began in high spirits. I packed all my belongings back into my trekking bag, checked out of Jasmine Hotel, walked to the breakfast joint and wolfed down my usual heavy breakfast. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmNNaeQfWwBe6TC8ZtmRSv3dtbRhsnCCdKIGJZiLeSeLDFg1DUbpA5xTpGAJwVFMF0U2j-AfQghZIeJExHe53YS15owCQHX4viXFP5mUO5oSUlb3QnKbjJhZd7YZ_M7A9Q2pKre4Mpgw/s1600/l03p02.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmNNaeQfWwBe6TC8ZtmRSv3dtbRhsnCCdKIGJZiLeSeLDFg1DUbpA5xTpGAJwVFMF0U2j-AfQghZIeJExHe53YS15owCQHX4viXFP5mUO5oSUlb3QnKbjJhZd7YZ_M7A9Q2pKre4Mpgw/s640/l03p02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then stopped at a nearby market to pick up supplies: water and extra granola bars. The proprietor of the store, Mrs. E-, noticed that I was out trekking and quipped in about also being an "admirer of nature." To prove her love of living things, she took out a dried snake that she was keeping near the check-out counter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCC28Qg9pPs9mDQkFrR3ulGXPZVeXuGAfM5S_Sl91m79UBiyduHA4chbAhr9Mqcy8Jqlq1nsprkQ2i9JFy0A3vWNYxWls7UnIdidTMVJJUvXrZUOJyYXDOjXUkeqRzkXueDi4aTI4I9E/s1600/l03p03.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCC28Qg9pPs9mDQkFrR3ulGXPZVeXuGAfM5S_Sl91m79UBiyduHA4chbAhr9Mqcy8Jqlq1nsprkQ2i9JFy0A3vWNYxWls7UnIdidTMVJJUvXrZUOJyYXDOjXUkeqRzkXueDi4aTI4I9E/s640/l03p03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was surprised to see Mrs. E-'s dried snake, possibly an <i>Eirenis</i> of the type I had seen in my first day in Göynük. She hadn't killed this serpent, but had found it dead on a roadside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCQFIwbPy8HGae9ZmTqX4VU6GLtGZUtKYZpTeWjA_cZ37OgTCmTKZnf9AsqsLA9JPJ5oBPpLqSVs9yy9hqYK-qiT1Ph4fIyMJjg7nqnUeqUvdD8OtHK_XeDhIrOWvkQkA4r9sPVJg3B0/s1600/l03p04.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCQFIwbPy8HGae9ZmTqX4VU6GLtGZUtKYZpTeWjA_cZ37OgTCmTKZnf9AsqsLA9JPJ5oBPpLqSVs9yy9hqYK-qiT1Ph4fIyMJjg7nqnUeqUvdD8OtHK_XeDhIrOWvkQkA4r9sPVJg3B0/s640/l03p04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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When I was thinking how my day was off to an interesting start, Mrs. E- decided to boost the shock factor by opening a drawer and bringing out a <i>living, </i>albeit wounded <b>green sphinx moth</b>, <i>Hyles livornica</i>. She had found this animal on her window earlier that day, and was now looking after it until it could fly again. I was happy to meet a fellow critter enthusiast, in the heart of the Lycian region.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sxiWXXeXY2I6yabXv1QhaqjKrvTusRlXsfb3TnBVzr6IUkJ5jaXU_YfQ7e9L3i3RphDEuVTPIVxCor7-7SK1kV4AsqCD6tIlooqPS5rg2zlL2XUESNkfoXid_haoB9nu6ZVpK99T0po/s1600/l03p05.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sxiWXXeXY2I6yabXv1QhaqjKrvTusRlXsfb3TnBVzr6IUkJ5jaXU_YfQ7e9L3i3RphDEuVTPIVxCor7-7SK1kV4AsqCD6tIlooqPS5rg2zlL2XUESNkfoXid_haoB9nu6ZVpK99T0po/s640/l03p05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I talked for a few moments with Mrs. E-, and then walked out of Tekirova, towards another national park that extended between the town and Çıralı, my ultimate destination that day. I knew it was going to be a long trek, so I walked at a slow, leisurely pace.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGR7WNMo0dMbKZZ5gORQJeeUHvvOP_YR68F4aTMQ4UqGChmEJ4prBOy2FS9nL70TZDi7p073ay0Z6CnxT2K7witj0AkrhQlcZUFlnpdB79qa-v8dLCwB5WbuwL5MKJynKwVEi-LRoInD8/s1600/l03p06.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGR7WNMo0dMbKZZ5gORQJeeUHvvOP_YR68F4aTMQ4UqGChmEJ4prBOy2FS9nL70TZDi7p073ay0Z6CnxT2K7witj0AkrhQlcZUFlnpdB79qa-v8dLCwB5WbuwL5MKJynKwVEi-LRoInD8/s640/l03p06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I ran into <b>Sarah and <a href="http://www.valentinmarquardt.de/" target="_blank">Valentin Marquardt</a></b>, a friendly couple from Tübingen, Germany. He was a photographer, she worked in I.T. They saved me from walking off on a wrong path and together we found the true entrance of the national park.<br />
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We struck up a nice company, talking about married life, politics, Merkel and Erdogan, the Mediterranean migrant crisis, jobs and the future. I was hungry for social life after two semi-feral days spent trekking alone. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFYxchXzdcwV__b7GrPbXMnECL-jnWha6qbctAjmOXe2SkzPJGBv1UTjtu-AkzrtkCu6cyV97NsMlpp6WMPCr8hP3PotLqJ9vfHkYCHA4lvzKXiiuWbq4m1dtetFpWJhfsuGywbsP5afA/s1600/l03p07.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFYxchXzdcwV__b7GrPbXMnECL-jnWha6qbctAjmOXe2SkzPJGBv1UTjtu-AkzrtkCu6cyV97NsMlpp6WMPCr8hP3PotLqJ9vfHkYCHA4lvzKXiiuWbq4m1dtetFpWJhfsuGywbsP5afA/s640/l03p07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We walked through a beautiful pine forest overlooking the sea, punctuated at one point by the spires and domes of a secluded luxury hotel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBRSe6e6-E39B6dukur8N1lM-dOPszeQd_7QwyC5iJKU_JCCjSSFZKIBnET9gWs-ummyFgKiMdkqOMygr3EkpJcS95w6P1D0WgkXXowRitFi5cF8iEWZHHUukM2Nqo7GDiaJ_JhnVVdeY/s1600/l03p08.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBRSe6e6-E39B6dukur8N1lM-dOPszeQd_7QwyC5iJKU_JCCjSSFZKIBnET9gWs-ummyFgKiMdkqOMygr3EkpJcS95w6P1D0WgkXXowRitFi5cF8iEWZHHUukM2Nqo7GDiaJ_JhnVVdeY/s640/l03p08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We stopped briefly at one of the several fountains on the way. Although unsightly, these fountains were lifesavers for trekkers passing through the park.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAasNeOPpKgxdabssqynr6NZYmC0bCxotR_F7-fWYD0OKEFP5J6LFH0-4CUk1mzlfczDirYi_vaS_5poEnz93A-E5QfXXjvEejGylY0KQkE5Ujes6ifuVBdF8_unedXUsASaR24CXD6cg/s1600/l03p09.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAasNeOPpKgxdabssqynr6NZYmC0bCxotR_F7-fWYD0OKEFP5J6LFH0-4CUk1mzlfczDirYi_vaS_5poEnz93A-E5QfXXjvEejGylY0KQkE5Ujes6ifuVBdF8_unedXUsASaR24CXD6cg/s640/l03p09.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Valentin and I found another subadult <i>Saga</i> cricket. Sarah was a great admirer of insects and other strange critters.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi70r2z72XjQQDt21OK3Z1IxOyQybytpSuefF_G-OS-eTD5Jd5frOFK_yupSdwq7eMPLFrlGvQ0A7AqWCJCQ7S4UK1qLT_0JR7bnbqq1-a-_QlZYux1RQ3wvhUWYpwUt-rXh_QLFYAYjWw/s1600/l03p10.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi70r2z72XjQQDt21OK3Z1IxOyQybytpSuefF_G-OS-eTD5Jd5frOFK_yupSdwq7eMPLFrlGvQ0A7AqWCJCQ7S4UK1qLT_0JR7bnbqq1-a-_QlZYux1RQ3wvhUWYpwUt-rXh_QLFYAYjWw/s640/l03p10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The road then began to descend...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_cAs8wMdtXT86mwoiyBuIxI-Q4gX_FYtc9CYY7fT85JKz2-aVBOF7cOw3Ga4Tk0HaLSuXaO2ouWEsnKEV1eH0Y9I1A0vd-1ZLlbRtF0_2YuoRM9PZH1tItIdIrT613wh21bw8K8LnZo/s1600/l03p11.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_cAs8wMdtXT86mwoiyBuIxI-Q4gX_FYtc9CYY7fT85JKz2-aVBOF7cOw3Ga4Tk0HaLSuXaO2ouWEsnKEV1eH0Y9I1A0vd-1ZLlbRtF0_2YuoRM9PZH1tItIdIrT613wh21bw8K8LnZo/s640/l03p11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...into an absolutely stunning beach with no one in sight.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji71XTZkgjM-KpFGWy7KCo8ebigJlwJM9edA3mEMzJlLgTCkDpV3sDFlWoHswhxkpLi8qxRlqlf-jhNGS0dhF24kTllMH5IiLX1ZbjzzsrRQ5Gei06aaEP41HVF7JhDPw4Ajy4EYzwXrg/s1600/l03p12.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji71XTZkgjM-KpFGWy7KCo8ebigJlwJM9edA3mEMzJlLgTCkDpV3sDFlWoHswhxkpLi8qxRlqlf-jhNGS0dhF24kTllMH5IiLX1ZbjzzsrRQ5Gei06aaEP41HVF7JhDPw4Ajy4EYzwXrg/s640/l03p12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A detail of the two "sentinel stones" by the big beach. One of them was wearing a "wig" of bushes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfH-s4pXROV7TNDX21OYg8Drip-8l1dP6laYdE43lnzbvxxgR75F6_xlmbkc4Trb5-5LRHof-r1Hlu3Saw06M7eqtp_GI02trnICYZLxPYWjiyO_TDoPkuQXnHZ1-GJXyymC9j_mLc2f8/s1600/l03p16.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfH-s4pXROV7TNDX21OYg8Drip-8l1dP6laYdE43lnzbvxxgR75F6_xlmbkc4Trb5-5LRHof-r1Hlu3Saw06M7eqtp_GI02trnICYZLxPYWjiyO_TDoPkuQXnHZ1-GJXyymC9j_mLc2f8/s640/l03p16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We had a great time at the beach; we swam and basked in the sun and relaxed. I then retired into the shade to eat a "lunch" of packed tuna, and also to give the Marquardts some romantic alone-time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTt7w0eTcNfBpbSE10EOAkGQM65_bdhC94aZs3fAlj71B-FJ05vwhd2IwxhQJ3i3JPX38wsQKc9EMl1npgP_J6TC8qn72HEVdxzgA3dapnVtudoLtLvNxMCVcX6Gdh-Itk-k8ptQJcI4/s1600/l03p17.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTt7w0eTcNfBpbSE10EOAkGQM65_bdhC94aZs3fAlj71B-FJ05vwhd2IwxhQJ3i3JPX38wsQKc9EMl1npgP_J6TC8qn72HEVdxzgA3dapnVtudoLtLvNxMCVcX6Gdh-Itk-k8ptQJcI4/s640/l03p17.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My German friends then had to leave. They did not have the supplies to walk all the way, and at any rate they had booked a hotel in Tekirova that night. Before parting ways, they mentioned that I was "<i>the most original person they had met on this trip,</i>" which made me feel pretty neat about myself. I gave them one of my <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2015/01/memento-print-artworks.html" target="_blank">memento prints</a> as a departure gift. The Marquardts also donated me an extra bottle of water, which turned out to be a lifesaver later that day.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp-RG_2_pJ3W0vwNqJ-h5OTgpqGvF8svW_E9Nlkybz84f6O7SzLGWjSvBSaQS_sBiMe_v7EJN559qtqOLiaR_sbW2x8qBVmYZSKRxOlOluMezD9N-kx6ZZ0PbY5yRLlg2Z7bU7xRFf2BU/s1600/l03p18.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp-RG_2_pJ3W0vwNqJ-h5OTgpqGvF8svW_E9Nlkybz84f6O7SzLGWjSvBSaQS_sBiMe_v7EJN559qtqOLiaR_sbW2x8qBVmYZSKRxOlOluMezD9N-kx6ZZ0PbY5yRLlg2Z7bU7xRFf2BU/s640/l03p18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Alone again, I continued walking through a slowly-ascending path, towards the general direction of Çıralı.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziEgaiTqJHHn2q8zFUC-10EPG5Bx3NM2B16_Twxdpkyi73p8hkMW9sNrSmt867hWLaNJ680MU8oua35hG8nLA5D2UTY_m4keJBgH8_3XwUFgYZp9ek3YpYAqkvJ9YGNaGWrDMXM3M1hg/s1600/l03p21.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziEgaiTqJHHn2q8zFUC-10EPG5Bx3NM2B16_Twxdpkyi73p8hkMW9sNrSmt867hWLaNJ680MU8oua35hG8nLA5D2UTY_m4keJBgH8_3XwUFgYZp9ek3YpYAqkvJ9YGNaGWrDMXM3M1hg/s640/l03p21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Beautiful plants abounded on the trail. This was a spiny spear thistle, <i>Cirsium vulgare.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWoKMgOqZAA2-sFtt11Py65SD7b44_BEFvClGDcf1WL5aP2DyNgpQzlBkDCi-LMQF6Mxc479i8RS1AnkxO9vgprTPL8Q0pc4V5bdK2cJnwsxM6rEFVCIZRnj_JMdMu9RFkscu28R3ngjA/s1600/l03p20.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWoKMgOqZAA2-sFtt11Py65SD7b44_BEFvClGDcf1WL5aP2DyNgpQzlBkDCi-LMQF6Mxc479i8RS1AnkxO9vgprTPL8Q0pc4V5bdK2cJnwsxM6rEFVCIZRnj_JMdMu9RFkscu28R3ngjA/s640/l03p20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I also saw these silvery <i>Verbascum</i> plants.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ibw8UiYifcrmXapBGsxXIy1ewgRDI_bHEgX4S0CmGfUjAqrNisH2yTFVGp9P2oY6CpcsRjNhd-k9KzMGfeFebhiEmjWDr5equmH1psFFS2hMAJ9EeFMhjnKp2jPTmsd_rB-E2rnxOY8/s1600/l03p19.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ibw8UiYifcrmXapBGsxXIy1ewgRDI_bHEgX4S0CmGfUjAqrNisH2yTFVGp9P2oY6CpcsRjNhd-k9KzMGfeFebhiEmjWDr5equmH1psFFS2hMAJ9EeFMhjnKp2jPTmsd_rB-E2rnxOY8/s640/l03p19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These plants, on the other hand, I could not identify.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibOMFTAcA9o0DDWjbR5JOJaSJSokTlSwx5K5BrjHAw3oTHGf9N75Cv02Ghn5E-iY-725dGT1yqKG_P8Sgs0HHa8qL4RuS0TWQD6HBO-ne0iaZfle2GvVvr3UsbiBis5HAFc4Xy_ru7QxU/s1600/l03p24.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibOMFTAcA9o0DDWjbR5JOJaSJSokTlSwx5K5BrjHAw3oTHGf9N75Cv02Ghn5E-iY-725dGT1yqKG_P8Sgs0HHa8qL4RuS0TWQD6HBO-ne0iaZfle2GvVvr3UsbiBis5HAFc4Xy_ru7QxU/s640/l03p24.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A Mediterranean stone pine, <i>Pinus pinea</i>, stood with insane dancing branches in front of a breathtaking seaside landscape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98sMZMDRnz5bGui4WeGNP_YUFR6Ithm7IlxJKJ7u6hF1qp83z2w4hNLpObfNL9gg___XS3vATpnh6kgg6yPTpBzmxW1xO_v_kkp1viiIpquy2Xh68wlngtWIBxj-tsJUHDbssXRNZHZE/s1600/l03p23.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98sMZMDRnz5bGui4WeGNP_YUFR6Ithm7IlxJKJ7u6hF1qp83z2w4hNLpObfNL9gg___XS3vATpnh6kgg6yPTpBzmxW1xO_v_kkp1viiIpquy2Xh68wlngtWIBxj-tsJUHDbssXRNZHZE/s640/l03p23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There was no shortage of amazing vistas on the seaside walk towards Çıralı. I took hundreds of pictures and stopped frequently just to enjoy the view.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhox4ulJzrHY_9llNn0ERWrD-QksvDPN2LhXdX8PIM32_UwaIcj6LTEom2LFCI9WANSSkvVfEtMXvMiNGjd0vzBZwRFKl58xWlKccKiTzL7JxCsp6AWxXmJzyJUfOzZQvuxY8FrchBQIks/s1600/l03p25.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhox4ulJzrHY_9llNn0ERWrD-QksvDPN2LhXdX8PIM32_UwaIcj6LTEom2LFCI9WANSSkvVfEtMXvMiNGjd0vzBZwRFKl58xWlKccKiTzL7JxCsp6AWxXmJzyJUfOzZQvuxY8FrchBQIks/s640/l03p25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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On the sides of the trail I noticed dozens of these small, conical pits. At first I took them to be natural artefacts, but they were too regularly shaped...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4VM4fCY9URJXpN0scOvhuBw4zMcVkoSZamrer0FRDQYoG4TfGVZ6HhYlJc9a_mbKj_ooPp4l2VS6OAKgSw-7PwXJvvzqFOPMwbA_kDbh180da7Ipvngb5KPA1izvFIm2ZjwqPNHdOhg/s1600/l03p26.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4VM4fCY9URJXpN0scOvhuBw4zMcVkoSZamrer0FRDQYoG4TfGVZ6HhYlJc9a_mbKj_ooPp4l2VS6OAKgSw-7PwXJvvzqFOPMwbA_kDbh180da7Ipvngb5KPA1izvFIm2ZjwqPNHdOhg/s640/l03p26.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A closer look inside the pits revealed an angry pair of vicious, tiny jaws at the centre of every depression. Occasionally they stirred and flicked bits of sand about.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-WdF9lI97F38DaZOuyG7Rs_ZiQ0-VqaAAK0BYTITb1a7L9qeG19J8hK_BXKCZaoNLOoN5oralv16QEaNi7mLZgp7Zelf-HiwB5wzbb94FMOGB5IuQSs-l8SPb0VzyoUkexnTpJqHExXg/s1600/l03p27.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-WdF9lI97F38DaZOuyG7Rs_ZiQ0-VqaAAK0BYTITb1a7L9qeG19J8hK_BXKCZaoNLOoN5oralv16QEaNi7mLZgp7Zelf-HiwB5wzbb94FMOGB5IuQSs-l8SPb0VzyoUkexnTpJqHExXg/s640/l03p27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These were the larvae of ant-lions, <i>Myrmeleon sp</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYfeuM9P9KjVnjpvpDh9xi53isdUE8anEANyyZ_Lda3wwTOf1_2-gQAabJ3-YAgIdFDu6b1sSwjTzUc3K4DDRDDN7h219z4IdfWRQmqyZ6bGviMDyJ0wv2qBwIAfRW9j8yWapRfKRMbKg/s1600/l03p28.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYfeuM9P9KjVnjpvpDh9xi53isdUE8anEANyyZ_Lda3wwTOf1_2-gQAabJ3-YAgIdFDu6b1sSwjTzUc3K4DDRDDN7h219z4IdfWRQmqyZ6bGviMDyJ0wv2qBwIAfRW9j8yWapRfKRMbKg/s640/l03p28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The nasty-looking but harmless animals spent their larval existence in these pits, waiting for interloping insects, usually ants, to fall in. All and any victims were quickly devoured.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-ge4AKZIGeAERT9zerG2gjjm8ZrrCirPYpnGRhTx-a3pAWefilfk-nT2jmz69An0bN5fAzaVHlHUUcXSt-G1icJByhNB3Xl95Ez31PTRy50idvX1as8gF-HcIX68HRDtu9xUXYwVfzg/s1600/IMG_1734.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-ge4AKZIGeAERT9zerG2gjjm8ZrrCirPYpnGRhTx-a3pAWefilfk-nT2jmz69An0bN5fAzaVHlHUUcXSt-G1icJByhNB3Xl95Ez31PTRy50idvX1as8gF-HcIX68HRDtu9xUXYwVfzg/s640/IMG_1734.JPG" /></a><br />
The mature form of the ant-lion was nothing like the larva. The turnip-like crawlers transformed into these pixie-eyed, lace-winged flyers after metamorphosis. This photograph was from another, <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2013/09/two-nocturnal-animals-from-bodrum.html" target="_blank">earlier adventure</a>. This was the first time I had seen ant-lion nests and larvae in Turkey.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhImC7QYvA5Z5DTWUfy2xJb7Wa1hoU5eGZ_yAxsi4FTt-D4PvFT8jvAo4bfDCfXWjw8vBpbvfBMobNBvX735GbDI5PraGceGlrS8fm-VHwRpFWwlp1B-zFOpvE2WQhksJ-AELG2TgMEQPQ/s1600/l03p29.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhImC7QYvA5Z5DTWUfy2xJb7Wa1hoU5eGZ_yAxsi4FTt-D4PvFT8jvAo4bfDCfXWjw8vBpbvfBMobNBvX735GbDI5PraGceGlrS8fm-VHwRpFWwlp1B-zFOpvE2WQhksJ-AELG2TgMEQPQ/s640/l03p29.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some of what I thought to be the world's best beaches appeared beneath the cliff-sides as I walked on. It was possible to walk down to a few coves, but the paths were extremely steep and I did not want to spend precious calories with the heavy load on my back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7AVq_qrA56NNLZ_8nidsmuWjJG4V59Y87aIqoiXr3Z5OgpS3IPs_Uhf0HK8S3_oKXmb-h3EPlRMzG6GeWtefI1XToOary_q5n4g_3dXsUxRuDQHplTANGzEEXtWg8IMNJjUtfOIqkdYY/s1600/l03p30.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7AVq_qrA56NNLZ_8nidsmuWjJG4V59Y87aIqoiXr3Z5OgpS3IPs_Uhf0HK8S3_oKXmb-h3EPlRMzG6GeWtefI1XToOary_q5n4g_3dXsUxRuDQHplTANGzEEXtWg8IMNJjUtfOIqkdYY/s640/l03p30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBPxH3r0fc0XywHIr0_DWAceFaoDfDsDN2auBikGipBfUQlq8lK9Y6XCr0JIU0agUIeiawgjPZ1yLuMfXHX62U8pBUKPC4RLwXP_8cWXIxy_TUhPGo7rpMOG9T4IAvZNNxeYBTTxAwcA8/s1600/l03p31.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBPxH3r0fc0XywHIr0_DWAceFaoDfDsDN2auBikGipBfUQlq8lK9Y6XCr0JIU0agUIeiawgjPZ1yLuMfXHX62U8pBUKPC4RLwXP_8cWXIxy_TUhPGo7rpMOG9T4IAvZNNxeYBTTxAwcA8/s640/l03p31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After nearly an hour of walking, I stopped at another "rest area" with a fountain.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJWxOQe4MBgMYDLL65pM3eK_7IN3qvJ5Rok6dh3oJSJF54GOtD_BBDI_sYqayWfZwvWtbPMT5hHXZNaMCKZ-ZCcQIDbcHC7Y3p5mbOpAE3BUE9iK13rf6g-afeEf2eFvfmLY90KEn7xw/s1600/l03p32.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJWxOQe4MBgMYDLL65pM3eK_7IN3qvJ5Rok6dh3oJSJF54GOtD_BBDI_sYqayWfZwvWtbPMT5hHXZNaMCKZ-ZCcQIDbcHC7Y3p5mbOpAE3BUE9iK13rf6g-afeEf2eFvfmLY90KEn7xw/s640/l03p32.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A pine forest with a dense undergrowth extrended around the fountain. I drank lots of water, ate some granola bars, took off my heavy backpack and explored the surrounding area.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnq51nmWdYbQtwsyE-S6T1Y-MWHe5UWBkAp_KATVzBbYgbZwaMri53wBKoZJQ2GpplvuuQ52BwDea7Yq33gqdWjjnl-EX_6mocWXO3qHHgEzGsdMhyphenhyphenRoHstgW28li4ge5Zy2oxXsrU7bI/s1600/l03p33.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnq51nmWdYbQtwsyE-S6T1Y-MWHe5UWBkAp_KATVzBbYgbZwaMri53wBKoZJQ2GpplvuuQ52BwDea7Yq33gqdWjjnl-EX_6mocWXO3qHHgEzGsdMhyphenhyphenRoHstgW28li4ge5Zy2oxXsrU7bI/s640/l03p33.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This tiny mud structure was plastered on the side of the fountain. It consisted of sealed-off, circular cells, one was still under under construction. The humble appearance of this nest concealed an extremely macabre way of life, for this was the larval stash of the <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sceliphron" target="_blank">mud-nest wasp</a></b>, <i>Sceliphron sp</i>.<br />
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Knowing these beasts, I knew that paralysed insects or spiders, each with an <b>embedded wasp egg</b>, lay entombed inside individual cells. The eggs would soon hatch and the larvae would devour their paralysed victims, fresh and alive, before breaking out of their containers. The life cycle of these wasps was a direct inspiration for <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_O%27Bannon" target="_blank">Dan O'Bannon</a> & friends <a href="http://gullcottageonline.com/WriteStuff_-_ALIENscript.html" target="_blank">as they wrote</a> the <a href="http://www.dailyscript.com/scripts/alien_shooting.html" target="_blank">script</a> for ALIEN, the 1979 sci-fi classic.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5yk8Xub6bOjcWkncRA1w1IANn8iB85KdyHg1If8nLa1sRQN5s353q-J2wIYyVavaPMJ000kkPMT7t1ojhmPdXR_zFlPXCf_C9RKEc67y_AxOD_aiSIMjnMTdXuAk2ERi87xBwhqVZkTE/s1600/l03p34.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5yk8Xub6bOjcWkncRA1w1IANn8iB85KdyHg1If8nLa1sRQN5s353q-J2wIYyVavaPMJ000kkPMT7t1ojhmPdXR_zFlPXCf_C9RKEc67y_AxOD_aiSIMjnMTdXuAk2ERi87xBwhqVZkTE/s640/l03p34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not far from the fountain, I found this enormous bush cricket, <i>Pholidoptera griseoaptera</i>. The small, black bush crickets I'd seen the previous day may have been the immature versions of this impressive insect. Notice the dark, <b>oval apertures</b> on its front legs. These strange organs were the <b>cricket's ears</b>, believe it or not.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTCQQ-gY2axmYp_za4-T-_maFdbx9d-Dm085xB4R5hNw1Zl57Fm4KoPTsBMTE1hsnBgxpIQ57YRWA47pNxDngEvozrcdfOVqn8Omvj84RrF0jr3UWjYpSYTDGe0d1z8bVmCFtFe2dp9M/s1600/l03p35.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTCQQ-gY2axmYp_za4-T-_maFdbx9d-Dm085xB4R5hNw1Zl57Fm4KoPTsBMTE1hsnBgxpIQ57YRWA47pNxDngEvozrcdfOVqn8Omvj84RrF0jr3UWjYpSYTDGe0d1z8bVmCFtFe2dp9M/s640/l03p35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I also started flipping stones, and was soon rewarded with this giant <i>Scolopendra</i> centipede, with dew-drops glistening on its cool, moist skin.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-HrJKvtlpr0l_8gDM8fy9G9JguQmWt6PHGipT2UD_aRAKeV97Rbh8N3t1gZ8bN9NMNcdQX_b1rdqiQQGyRFYLz3UmUQfeR-drXkmHiJKxrpOcQo-nFTxRia3CtZboPpd0_Bmsz-00aRA/s1600/l03p36.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-HrJKvtlpr0l_8gDM8fy9G9JguQmWt6PHGipT2UD_aRAKeV97Rbh8N3t1gZ8bN9NMNcdQX_b1rdqiQQGyRFYLz3UmUQfeR-drXkmHiJKxrpOcQo-nFTxRia3CtZboPpd0_Bmsz-00aRA/s640/l03p36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After a few more minutes of fruitless stone-flipping, I put my backpack back on and started walking again. This leg of the trek was quite difficult. I ascended a series of steep paths, pausing occasionally to catch my breath. The extra bottle of water given by the Marquardts really helped me during this part of my walk.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqZ7OEiq5Ope7dLdYlRJoppKx8OdosDGyMCRs_U3PUVBTWbU3kHBnr4QmZdQjDMMgksoU-I19_U59tBbhV8FvKb-YbE5YDstXqNxb3baWEtU5RaJdD3s1Nzao0WrwzeJaPNWrK6QUzqg/s1600/l03p37.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqZ7OEiq5Ope7dLdYlRJoppKx8OdosDGyMCRs_U3PUVBTWbU3kHBnr4QmZdQjDMMgksoU-I19_U59tBbhV8FvKb-YbE5YDstXqNxb3baWEtU5RaJdD3s1Nzao0WrwzeJaPNWrK6QUzqg/s640/l03p37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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An exhausted self-portrait.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQb-iFEzq7rY0wGVlA1i6hxFavba3sLFu4q6NC9z8Dku3xYBJ_EsRQTd2GX3qkFKL86H8mIAvpRMgklRD0HLT3m5lrrSFIAfFUqdKl08s_9l_I90yK5DwLgdDazIOa2aNc0V9Vgves13M/s1600/l03p38.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQb-iFEzq7rY0wGVlA1i6hxFavba3sLFu4q6NC9z8Dku3xYBJ_EsRQTd2GX3qkFKL86H8mIAvpRMgklRD0HLT3m5lrrSFIAfFUqdKl08s_9l_I90yK5DwLgdDazIOa2aNc0V9Vgves13M/s640/l03p38.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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More interesting rocks protruded from the sides of the ascending trail.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8Z04Yf1S1voNSevno9Pwq3u8ZvRHHGR46aKLEorEKBDuvjOBoSQ9Fr5HpJ4-Hc02IUZcXcsI8qihXiN6beYD8AWt7c3PYo5Oba0t3JzW-4tMXFuQpGykZGb2lQL5rKOimofGcyIvQZo/s1600/l03p39.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8Z04Yf1S1voNSevno9Pwq3u8ZvRHHGR46aKLEorEKBDuvjOBoSQ9Fr5HpJ4-Hc02IUZcXcsI8qihXiN6beYD8AWt7c3PYo5Oba0t3JzW-4tMXFuQpGykZGb2lQL5rKOimofGcyIvQZo/s640/l03p39.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The serpentine branches of this pine tree reminded me of the work of <a href="http://www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au/collection/works/?artist_id=glover-john" target="_blank">John Glower</a>, an 18th-century landscape artist from Australia. Come to think of it, there was a slight, but undeniable resemblance between the landscapes of the Lycian shore, and those of that far-off-continent. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoTufHdz4nJh-Q2XXzz7G0kbSPiEkBMlsYOJA5nbizl04PbT9orDZ2r_PqgKhy96lOhEaWbUQQ0u-tOm98yNeLE0tL1ZWdomNZLddH0of4TMH0NzF9aX_5Yawxl0E89PIqLYRe1UPqgug/s1600/l03p40.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoTufHdz4nJh-Q2XXzz7G0kbSPiEkBMlsYOJA5nbizl04PbT9orDZ2r_PqgKhy96lOhEaWbUQQ0u-tOm98yNeLE0tL1ZWdomNZLddH0of4TMH0NzF9aX_5Yawxl0E89PIqLYRe1UPqgug/s640/l03p40.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I soon cleared the steep hill.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj0BKFJe3Qgo8w0msO2IvAoohhxs7dZKcoOLa8jJyBhR3Xb5n6RLTtqlhG2Y85gGhVn2kFtg8f7PRgvdoBCt70GyEUIRmUvnpPQ7HZ50IJet-l6Ee18OW_QJ6MZL0cWQyMrM6kEgjLkVk/s1600/l03p41.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj0BKFJe3Qgo8w0msO2IvAoohhxs7dZKcoOLa8jJyBhR3Xb5n6RLTtqlhG2Y85gGhVn2kFtg8f7PRgvdoBCt70GyEUIRmUvnpPQ7HZ50IJet-l6Ee18OW_QJ6MZL0cWQyMrM6kEgjLkVk/s640/l03p41.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lo and behold - the blue haze of Çıralı Bay was visible on the horizon. I felt like shouting <i><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thalatta!_Thalatta!" target="_blank">"the sea! the sea!"</a></i> in the manner of the battle-worn Greeks in Xenophon's <i>Anabasis</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_OeRqNSiTTgSyUyJMBp6ku1J3OG2zYQ2jkiLIAq2nea3nGiY8r_Mg0RDNnOuN_lOj3gE8FcelnPihCBVl-6bw4TpTVj9GDlQpc_Z6piIXYtnoK8WX7ahaaAzTkzQH59EP-AiQONmYIC0/s1600/l03p42.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_OeRqNSiTTgSyUyJMBp6ku1J3OG2zYQ2jkiLIAq2nea3nGiY8r_Mg0RDNnOuN_lOj3gE8FcelnPihCBVl-6bw4TpTVj9GDlQpc_Z6piIXYtnoK8WX7ahaaAzTkzQH59EP-AiQONmYIC0/s640/l03p42.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...but something wasn't right. As I descended along what I took to be the path to Çıralı, <i>another </i>bay, in fact, <i>two more bays</i>, surrounded by pretty rough-looking hills, loomed into the view. This unexpected new cove was the "Maden" (Mine) Bay, the site of an old mine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJOd7SQBp30VNlVNL5SNr6Ja1kCzhQnLWU6riughX0Z_1OM7ZyzP_ryoW0rqw9uHC9_Wmy0J2KfjiMhUzuIPhI3twa7NT_tZRPB_k3bHkibYaZsJpwPMMMmLE3AsBYGNgRx3uMVCTjCY/s1600/l03p43.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJOd7SQBp30VNlVNL5SNr6Ja1kCzhQnLWU6riughX0Z_1OM7ZyzP_ryoW0rqw9uHC9_Wmy0J2KfjiMhUzuIPhI3twa7NT_tZRPB_k3bHkibYaZsJpwPMMMmLE3AsBYGNgRx3uMVCTjCY/s640/l03p43.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I descended towards Maden Bay. From there, I'd find some kind of route to Çıralı. I guessed. Or I could return to Tekirova when there was still sunlight, but my pride did not allow me to turn tail when within sight of my destination. This tiny grey mantis appeared on my path, as if to mock my growing sense of anxiety.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18XGp4Ybh4aGs3pvaR1k2gs7aQ9B5sEDMK1J_UBcKUrbdOpW0YAMc_K8FaIzFh2kr8XHdUKQPBh9v1AiiupwZmCo-NxABqd1uTrvtqtiOIbumR6qXQZ0SfE6lbsWsMaHR-Jg7FcJcqEM/s1600/l03p44.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18XGp4Ybh4aGs3pvaR1k2gs7aQ9B5sEDMK1J_UBcKUrbdOpW0YAMc_K8FaIzFh2kr8XHdUKQPBh9v1AiiupwZmCo-NxABqd1uTrvtqtiOIbumR6qXQZ0SfE6lbsWsMaHR-Jg7FcJcqEM/s640/l03p44.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I also saw a lot of bright red-and-black <b>soldier beetles,</b> <i>Trichodes apiarius, </i>on this path. I really liked the variable, mask-like patterns on their backs.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimjjSLecb90apIQe2NgIzwUdvzPWrCQfbzpDHYN50bkFChBA0M8rX2EanTYShFC4xNFtcQfXVVRPadCfd0OPHiVHW2ag9dhrE6MHOg1QNQh8q9LL9FHOiupOuSwFozm7GZW8SK3RGfIOo/s1600/l03p48.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimjjSLecb90apIQe2NgIzwUdvzPWrCQfbzpDHYN50bkFChBA0M8rX2EanTYShFC4xNFtcQfXVVRPadCfd0OPHiVHW2ag9dhrE6MHOg1QNQh8q9LL9FHOiupOuSwFozm7GZW8SK3RGfIOo/s640/l03p48.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This <b>Levant frog</b>, <i>Pelophylax bedrigae,</i> was sitting in a puddle that had formed in a skid-mark left behind by a large vehicle. The setting sun was reflecting ominously from its thoughtless, idiot-savant eyes.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh730fuPP9j5IcUuapE5n6hcBih5H75AfHVdNfwcXTtGD_X8XeNRYsHcrOXmnBORfLFYHT7bpfRiqleFrzK9P7CesEFQcsW83HD9QVSFxO8s8pd6r7jnjYGde2gtH1JAMgSLIJfEH_Mpg0/s1600/l03p45.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh730fuPP9j5IcUuapE5n6hcBih5H75AfHVdNfwcXTtGD_X8XeNRYsHcrOXmnBORfLFYHT7bpfRiqleFrzK9P7CesEFQcsW83HD9QVSFxO8s8pd6r7jnjYGde2gtH1JAMgSLIJfEH_Mpg0/s640/l03p45.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I began to walk faster, worried that the sun might set before I got to Çıralı. En route, the "magic hour" sun illuminated one of the most gorgeous vistas of my entire trip.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQNkYfoZr-S8rmpG6CLxQZ3LbS0Fd-xv_SDm77KGNcMFRCfj7Qid2uxoQHSnYwxhNkDv36yPyP_YeeXRjIIzgblPYczOfAXEOyVM4us09RDxIl5uRyHD2VPa_2pbnER0RAv4hZy7GRzQg/s1600/l03p46.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQNkYfoZr-S8rmpG6CLxQZ3LbS0Fd-xv_SDm77KGNcMFRCfj7Qid2uxoQHSnYwxhNkDv36yPyP_YeeXRjIIzgblPYczOfAXEOyVM4us09RDxIl5uRyHD2VPa_2pbnER0RAv4hZy7GRzQg/s640/l03p46.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Another view of the poignantly-setting sun...</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaDmW7PpBcFFvltB0g_8uanfJHNxgvzprnMas1H7dMxPkFb-_jyrTqSIajJmCLCjwSt0QhiTWeiv6WSTGV0_DBPNTVcRrqbJAWUsMMQ402Mr2V3rQ5NziBLb24_8YZMo6wSTunoCP2dRY/s1600/l03p47.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaDmW7PpBcFFvltB0g_8uanfJHNxgvzprnMas1H7dMxPkFb-_jyrTqSIajJmCLCjwSt0QhiTWeiv6WSTGV0_DBPNTVcRrqbJAWUsMMQ402Mr2V3rQ5NziBLb24_8YZMo6wSTunoCP2dRY/s640/l03p47.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
...and another...</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhepc0HytzDBmVMjyfOfv_9N-2yA6F8nikkr2JPm1-eBtjNtxrZg0p2dq4gZ1yABhCLZbiUvy-8pL7piVCCWRCYZeLiTw-VJUXGkD2x8O5rY0DyW_0wfBaOAS7hIAsZI_CfQ7lDxY3zPmY/s1600/l03p49.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhepc0HytzDBmVMjyfOfv_9N-2yA6F8nikkr2JPm1-eBtjNtxrZg0p2dq4gZ1yABhCLZbiUvy-8pL7piVCCWRCYZeLiTw-VJUXGkD2x8O5rY0DyW_0wfBaOAS7hIAsZI_CfQ7lDxY3zPmY/s640/l03p49.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
...and another, with old stone buildings left over from the mining establishment at Maden Bay.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQIruwVp1ra1fyxwJ-25gSzwAbGRtwFW4sZbS6VQ6eCQD8YObcW6gmblzQSJQ-GEPsvM28GE7br3Bf3ZwgE1ZRi7lgylR-S9CQJy7oS0rGr-t7w886m9ttMPS2VMVufNH5YQwD62iWIM/s1600/l03p50.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQIruwVp1ra1fyxwJ-25gSzwAbGRtwFW4sZbS6VQ6eCQD8YObcW6gmblzQSJQ-GEPsvM28GE7br3Bf3ZwgE1ZRi7lgylR-S9CQJy7oS0rGr-t7w886m9ttMPS2VMVufNH5YQwD62iWIM/s640/l03p50.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This area was the site of a chromium mine that ran intermittently from the late 1930s to the 1990s. Various buildings set on the outskirts of the beach dated to the earliest days of the mines. I was in a hurry to find a route to Çıralı, but one gaping doorway, with vibrant pink <i>Nerium </i>flowers inside, almost beckoned me to enter.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqL2Ed9JGQ-V4zlcnHTl1LnyWc53ZNNiLNodZKaqKu1qALDaWFQQxvspRrdu0hv1ht5aGnIeuV-oc3oeJVI5Z80Shk40nVwkmSMSxKHhdT0QyL7UU-YEuaPXiv6qvmkCi36EINt5o27f0/s1600/l03p51.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqL2Ed9JGQ-V4zlcnHTl1LnyWc53ZNNiLNodZKaqKu1qALDaWFQQxvspRrdu0hv1ht5aGnIeuV-oc3oeJVI5Z80Shk40nVwkmSMSxKHhdT0QyL7UU-YEuaPXiv6qvmkCi36EINt5o27f0/s640/l03p51.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I found more than just flowers inside. A <b>giant diesel engine</b>, no doubt used to power the mine in the past, sat in the building like a dead metal sphinx.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ5kwug13tjmWiKN2jVMDEdyelDV_C7rlNiAo6p7_rZzY0r2vn2vsuQ_C9nZXx1q9t96Xr2G8NzQsX-EifrvRSlzmzbnw3WFHicrrDmJubnRjYCvHLS9zpRztS8g7fyD4jI5TYVNpk0kM/s1600/l03p53.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ5kwug13tjmWiKN2jVMDEdyelDV_C7rlNiAo6p7_rZzY0r2vn2vsuQ_C9nZXx1q9t96Xr2G8NzQsX-EifrvRSlzmzbnw3WFHicrrDmJubnRjYCvHLS9zpRztS8g7fyD4jI5TYVNpk0kM/s640/l03p53.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I walked to the beach after taking a couple of hurried pictures. The cove was completely abandoned.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRxv062XwZoED_FaygDSnDpqUBVxcMA79olfI43jNZ4PZmKSE9xMzi95NY8KiA-Ikx52baIfEiopD-auZm4PQUGKbuTdK-yXLpdGFazJnbCA7RAt57wh66mnQ_l0aseNElca9v1GkMUSY/s1600/l03p54.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRxv062XwZoED_FaygDSnDpqUBVxcMA79olfI43jNZ4PZmKSE9xMzi95NY8KiA-Ikx52baIfEiopD-auZm4PQUGKbuTdK-yXLpdGFazJnbCA7RAt57wh66mnQ_l0aseNElca9v1GkMUSY/s640/l03p54.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I saw this empty trailer and a dead cargo van, perhaps the remnants of an unsuccessful attempt at hosting tourists. Someone had spray painted "HORNY IBO" on the gaily-striped trailer. I thought if the worst came to pass, I could spend the night inside the trailer. But what if "horny Ibo" came back?</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrxdKKuRwGIo1wVrrV6iAXPkXzXm67KepqOPMsntnyDuYe_mASKT6V8hE5ZvjBYwOxAgedhtdwPj5wb8qOyv_7zE4GBqRHC0tMvuisEtOFFO1Vh5oc0xkhyQJadlhmDlN2QVXIK1Dn51o/s1600/l03p55.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrxdKKuRwGIo1wVrrV6iAXPkXzXm67KepqOPMsntnyDuYe_mASKT6V8hE5ZvjBYwOxAgedhtdwPj5wb8qOyv_7zE4GBqRHC0tMvuisEtOFFO1Vh5oc0xkhyQJadlhmDlN2QVXIK1Dn51o/s640/l03p55.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
If I only had a smartphone, I could look up proper directions to Çıralı. But being a thorough opponent of the attention-span-destroying devices, all I had was an old-style brick phone. So I called a few friends and asked them to find a proper route from here to Çıralı. At their advice, I decided to press on deeper into Maden Bay. </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU64ZdL-ieuz2VluCgpoyzAofcX6pLyr71Ul-S4w7BJVtl-eQVhvlCEURcpAlssh254uuk53Bh83I7IW8W9AupG7inGVMF-jhWeyHB-EpiM0aaljPCHm9LosNA6jENpQCP4YmWIsh7UJ4/s1600/l03p56.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU64ZdL-ieuz2VluCgpoyzAofcX6pLyr71Ul-S4w7BJVtl-eQVhvlCEURcpAlssh254uuk53Bh83I7IW8W9AupG7inGVMF-jhWeyHB-EpiM0aaljPCHm9LosNA6jENpQCP4YmWIsh7UJ4/s640/l03p56.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
All around the beach, I saw these old remnants of fish farms, falling apart like crashed UFOs.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW0TstL9TNRtu5N9Hx5zBxwaUn0lRndZ44EaPv_Ui9Ms7JvTVq2EyqprOu5sQfNYjiDzGD2GkHgWbQDltXSW5OEiR5W9EXmoGwxVZamncdKU2Kdbsi7Bs_eMt56avDF_f6a-gzZxrTMc4/s1600/l03p57.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW0TstL9TNRtu5N9Hx5zBxwaUn0lRndZ44EaPv_Ui9Ms7JvTVq2EyqprOu5sQfNYjiDzGD2GkHgWbQDltXSW5OEiR5W9EXmoGwxVZamncdKU2Kdbsi7Bs_eMt56avDF_f6a-gzZxrTMc4/s640/l03p57.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Another strange view with clouds and the majestic summit of Mount Tahtalı, contrasted pleasantly with the bright spokes of a beached, plastic fish-farm pen.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8DEFOYcYIPHGip8isQ8xQXO3JK0ICYqkjhemtmlipTsDn0H_gCc-iuzwcyvdBFqdV1J5BtjwhiT9PrRbqZcaGRvFT7-_YdGrpsadzjXFdHWIp1SaNZwx5NoB-VJfGuvFsSVHcImzG9A/s1600/l03p58.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8DEFOYcYIPHGip8isQ8xQXO3JK0ICYqkjhemtmlipTsDn0H_gCc-iuzwcyvdBFqdV1J5BtjwhiT9PrRbqZcaGRvFT7-_YdGrpsadzjXFdHWIp1SaNZwx5NoB-VJfGuvFsSVHcImzG9A/s640/l03p58.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This modern excavator was also rusting on the beach alongside the fish farms. I took it to be a relic from the final days of the mine in the 1990s.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHufrz0iFgYsTudpyzaLnme4GANSXQ5IG4ur3dpTEwZVbF5JCH98CyFAXs_7TiRZUQU87jh-socXDJW2w_3nG7dJY0U5NAMIUU9nsdPoA5VMd47U_yJi9owqyBI3yimGuWYreU9MVS3v8/s1600/l03p59.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHufrz0iFgYsTudpyzaLnme4GANSXQ5IG4ur3dpTEwZVbF5JCH98CyFAXs_7TiRZUQU87jh-socXDJW2w_3nG7dJY0U5NAMIUU9nsdPoA5VMd47U_yJi9owqyBI3yimGuWYreU9MVS3v8/s640/l03p59.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
At the far end of the beach stood this kiln. I couldn't figure out its original purpose.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHu_sG5V65JOS50-0zRfeOBEKFBE-LkErjoOwW92k_E6RFN0S8rTf5ToknY9fyYlRKmmyJPMgXCrYWdg3aT23_ygZCKaS6Cz8wt22paKMdvNEOfsQb1zZbHWJWohG4DKvzsSmsm3MfLk/s1600/l03p60.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHu_sG5V65JOS50-0zRfeOBEKFBE-LkErjoOwW92k_E6RFN0S8rTf5ToknY9fyYlRKmmyJPMgXCrYWdg3aT23_ygZCKaS6Cz8wt22paKMdvNEOfsQb1zZbHWJWohG4DKvzsSmsm3MfLk/s640/l03p60.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I wandered around the hinterland of Maden Bay for a long time, trying to find the continuation of the path. The sun had already set when I finally determined which way to go.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpbIRwijLXCqmpgjoJtFrVqotDm4jLZdJiawxjGwQu-p9QR67UKgGC1waNwzuCIHFek2-aTzfD5pPawmyHrznE29LtyrbfkFkzfoSooNrSj2POpR7maHXJFVO4ncJG8doq4h1F6QlJ4fk/s1600/l03p61.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpbIRwijLXCqmpgjoJtFrVqotDm4jLZdJiawxjGwQu-p9QR67UKgGC1waNwzuCIHFek2-aTzfD5pPawmyHrznE29LtyrbfkFkzfoSooNrSj2POpR7maHXJFVO4ncJG8doq4h1F6QlJ4fk/s640/l03p61.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Thankfully, I had brought a wearable LED headlight just for such occasions.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoq3K9DjVUz68towrBzYQiEOGHDXyK98coidL6InDkLBI0ZSsgbY_zr5hUvAQLpLGWxztfK-IZc71ZnZvoUZCTzYRCDFH09ZlOQXQjx28qcbio94Y0weidrGN6rLjSO7Qwz7z7kWlOdpk/s1600/l03p62.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoq3K9DjVUz68towrBzYQiEOGHDXyK98coidL6InDkLBI0ZSsgbY_zr5hUvAQLpLGWxztfK-IZc71ZnZvoUZCTzYRCDFH09ZlOQXQjx28qcbio94Y0weidrGN6rLjSO7Qwz7z7kWlOdpk/s640/l03p62.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This was my view in the dark, with the faint illumination offered by the LED headlight. I collected my wits and made a plan. I had found the beginning of the route that led to Çıralı. I had plenty of food and water. All I had to do was walk. By now, staying on Maden Bay would just be a waste of time. If I spent the night here, I would have to trek to Çıralı at any rate, in the morning.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1gdwT6ScF1AthneErKASkIZiyezh646U1CCnNWwcvgA9QPjmlhiADFxFphXgyq4Vnqd7rjXN78W2_cwUmmFLublOocq4FORlhgMwctNj2yS1lAGyo69zVVqtOjIODsanZRS5aqfDbsAo/s1600/l03p63.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1gdwT6ScF1AthneErKASkIZiyezh646U1CCnNWwcvgA9QPjmlhiADFxFphXgyq4Vnqd7rjXN78W2_cwUmmFLublOocq4FORlhgMwctNj2yS1lAGyo69zVVqtOjIODsanZRS5aqfDbsAo/s640/l03p63.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I made way along the lunar-looking riverbed that extended behind Maden Bay. Lit by my faint headlight, the little trekkers' cairns and the guiding paint marks emerged from darkness. After orienting myself, it wasn't terribly difficult to stay on the path that led from Maden Bay to... what I hoped would be Çıralı.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlW_GViaqBIxKSbAY1YVH9tmzxZ4KyusjBJ6WmducLlAFxPclxF8UaJTqMFV-Xenw0-HOm_Vo9VIkhzfBnFqKk2mVgJSCTwYaXR4XL22ffymVmUkbdqbx78VkEMyObRPRMz5HnrC7CYRA/s1600/l03p64.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlW_GViaqBIxKSbAY1YVH9tmzxZ4KyusjBJ6WmducLlAFxPclxF8UaJTqMFV-Xenw0-HOm_Vo9VIkhzfBnFqKk2mVgJSCTwYaXR4XL22ffymVmUkbdqbx78VkEMyObRPRMz5HnrC7CYRA/s640/l03p64.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
At several points, my zig-zagging path crossed a small river.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAznQ0VLzDHHtErU99cGBjujRNDYJD5drCo0QupJlr_kz6eHbGQ0BawKfUiOZCpMzIkqb_mfEwJL1yMQR_LHTRHpC_R5k71hLdwTtA5yFpCk7MPQgfglx6bQ_mTqEYmzXIs46aGRPop0k/s1600/l03p65.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAznQ0VLzDHHtErU99cGBjujRNDYJD5drCo0QupJlr_kz6eHbGQ0BawKfUiOZCpMzIkqb_mfEwJL1yMQR_LHTRHpC_R5k71hLdwTtA5yFpCk7MPQgfglx6bQ_mTqEYmzXIs46aGRPop0k/s640/l03p65.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The zig-zags meant that I was climbing, and eventually the road got steeper. I crossed a section of the river littered with discarded sections of giant concrete piping.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgkjWs8l5nxLpJffFM96uCDXJRQzaSz1r2KMP69qyZMT0jd31keyN6dEkgxJPVMJn3BzfHNHxbmlxZOWF9-PGacXHxSFzZ3sw1VcWm_Z2VpVqmaUsExHEb0N1i6qL0GwGKL_7MQUR4YQ/s1600/l03p66.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgkjWs8l5nxLpJffFM96uCDXJRQzaSz1r2KMP69qyZMT0jd31keyN6dEkgxJPVMJn3BzfHNHxbmlxZOWF9-PGacXHxSFzZ3sw1VcWm_Z2VpVqmaUsExHEb0N1i6qL0GwGKL_7MQUR4YQ/s640/l03p66.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I kept climbing the increasingly steep road, in the dark, for about two hours after sunset. It was utterly exhausting, yet somehow, I kept at it. I took care not to wear myself out, and sat down frequently to rest. The dancing trees seemed to be mocking my progress as I walked on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UgpvyXjquC3OvW4TgAvGGWg8S8AyvbUegPHehEeb2NnF9CYOTH9MBCWbhlBzrFzzCE0d_PODqfisT-so8_WboVZrkFmv_QMDA3EB8ZinPo6Bmjgz2z4uCfkStHvbZ6TCOO7o2EYoO8o/s1600/l03p67.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UgpvyXjquC3OvW4TgAvGGWg8S8AyvbUegPHehEeb2NnF9CYOTH9MBCWbhlBzrFzzCE0d_PODqfisT-so8_WboVZrkFmv_QMDA3EB8ZinPo6Bmjgz2z4uCfkStHvbZ6TCOO7o2EYoO8o/s640/l03p67.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I saw this <b>giant wolf spider</b>, <i>Hogna sp</i>. during one of my frequent nocturnal rest stops. It was as big as a baby's hand. I first noticed it through the gleam of it beady eyes, reflecting the light of my LED lamp like those of a miniature cat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXyN-psHA7kKcD6Om2e9yxJa3Ty91ZAUmI8sDGtSDZUlCzsO2HwbftHqOv3GdcIMpxdqE-XfQ0qljQOLX_0PAe-3uGmGiBpQGFMaE8AZzjWeWQPJInriY2tk8RhqauIQYrrY9PRpM4QE/s1600/l03p68.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXyN-psHA7kKcD6Om2e9yxJa3Ty91ZAUmI8sDGtSDZUlCzsO2HwbftHqOv3GdcIMpxdqE-XfQ0qljQOLX_0PAe-3uGmGiBpQGFMaE8AZzjWeWQPJInriY2tk8RhqauIQYrrY9PRpM4QE/s640/l03p68.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sometimes I switched my headlight off just to look at the stars. These scrappy photos could do no justice to the <b>brilliant, nebular sky </b>visible that night. Many thoughts and visions crossed my mind; my family, the uncertain future, reverberating memories, ideas for new paintings and so on. Such celestial contemplation was worth every risk of getting lost, or having to spend the night alone on a lonely mountain. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNKfReSYZTj3LeyyOzRFiA2RmoRzQHvWiFGe1EVYtkO1baW_3qVtmBLlBSJc3nTok3c16aTKMH7MyUWRugyhlofOmCVdZRXyAr93u_iejOa4pHM5VkBt-GwCcM6v8ZbeJ73IA-Q4nHt8/s1600/l03p69.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNKfReSYZTj3LeyyOzRFiA2RmoRzQHvWiFGe1EVYtkO1baW_3qVtmBLlBSJc3nTok3c16aTKMH7MyUWRugyhlofOmCVdZRXyAr93u_iejOa4pHM5VkBt-GwCcM6v8ZbeJ73IA-Q4nHt8/s640/l03p69.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>The climb seemed to be never-ending, </b>and my fully-loaded backpack was digging into my shoulders.<b> </b>I scaled one steep hill, only to be confronted by one, two more. At every turn, I hoped to see the lights of Çıralı, yet nothing appeared. I comforted myself at least with the fact that I was following a path, and that path had to lead somewhere, eventually.<br />
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I decided to have dinner. I sat down at the bottom of a tree root and finished my last pack of tuna, together with my last granola bars, and a special "cocktail" of my last remaining water, dosed with vitamin C and Aspirin pills. I hoped this final meal would give me enough strength to reach Çıralı.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-ZEf6cml-nOjrMBJ6UOp1t9j6Jf8lNF0OLQNoL4JelqTRSZulKHIsTaAOu06JQxTwX5ApWVa0lYAUq03Hsc957-G6bPnR0Q51GaAV5kwe-TChyphenhypheni8fGMpiXgYcbFZfqsPA6mlbN84Efs/s1600/l03p70.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-ZEf6cml-nOjrMBJ6UOp1t9j6Jf8lNF0OLQNoL4JelqTRSZulKHIsTaAOu06JQxTwX5ApWVa0lYAUq03Hsc957-G6bPnR0Q51GaAV5kwe-TChyphenhypheni8fGMpiXgYcbFZfqsPA6mlbN84Efs/s640/l03p70.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I spent one more hour climbing and walking after "dinner." Eventually the road began to slope down. <b>Some lights appeared in the distance</b>. <i>Horray</i>! I was certain that <i>this time</i>, I'd be heading down to Çıralı. Except I wasn't. Instead of Çıralı beach, I found myself somewhere on the highway between Tekirova and Beycik. Somewhere along the way, I'd branched off the hiking trail and wandered into one of the forest roads that connected to the highway. The lights I'd seen were those of passing lorries, not those of twinkling beachside restaurants.<br />
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Even then, blundering into some vestige of civilisation was an enormous relief. I made a smart move and called the <a href="http://www.booking.com/hotel/tr/karakus-pansiyon.tr.html" target="_blank">hotel I intended to stay</a> in Çıralı (I had saved their number in advance), and asked them to pick me up from where I was. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNWI9erHtO8fo9g-GRpyLHSbesGtpzQ3rIh99lZu7rb6GEEai5Q1vpwOA5XMe5JXzcbMYxXswuw8vPYPabzsOzIQif95TcoFPh75FQJjZHb3uTsEnoxoqCmPWOwJnYCB95mw9QMzdY7M/s1600/l03p71.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNWI9erHtO8fo9g-GRpyLHSbesGtpzQ3rIh99lZu7rb6GEEai5Q1vpwOA5XMe5JXzcbMYxXswuw8vPYPabzsOzIQif95TcoFPh75FQJjZHb3uTsEnoxoqCmPWOwJnYCB95mw9QMzdY7M/s640/l03p71.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I little while later, I was saved. I immediately took a hot shower and hit the bed. It was around 2 AM when I finally fell asleep.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmEf-4pRGCl85lZttYSg2MeOVWkfXwHHXdK1QnqyCNAWxrbCPo5LnatykF1VYZcYAD40o1l2Cp_RJ9_eI-ag1Nvqx9O7gIFzWC9KgJyJQdPg5eU1LzLDgbsf-5w4LF-1YM4nACt1QhK0/s1600/l03pxx.jpg"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmEf-4pRGCl85lZttYSg2MeOVWkfXwHHXdK1QnqyCNAWxrbCPo5LnatykF1VYZcYAD40o1l2Cp_RJ9_eI-ag1Nvqx9O7gIFzWC9KgJyJQdPg5eU1LzLDgbsf-5w4LF-1YM4nACt1QhK0/s320/l03pxx.jpg" width="294" /></a></div>
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Here is the route I walked during that fateful day. Click on the image for a high-res version.</div>
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***</div>
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<b>Day Four: Rest in Çıralı</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtrhDAse9ItILfbjpQAK9gI-limEAVCzOJUvtO_6q0pcEo5ah4iZIKbRM6wkRqmrYu6SGnvuZ6qC16wDRT1YSDc2UPGViFQDxNFHhkh1SxR4sZKp6y0iz3mOj28tbfCEi5qiwaoQMXnG4/s1600/l03p72.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtrhDAse9ItILfbjpQAK9gI-limEAVCzOJUvtO_6q0pcEo5ah4iZIKbRM6wkRqmrYu6SGnvuZ6qC16wDRT1YSDc2UPGViFQDxNFHhkh1SxR4sZKp6y0iz3mOj28tbfCEi5qiwaoQMXnG4/s640/l03p72.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I woke up the next day with sense of comfort and relief I had seldom felt before. A refreshing, cool breeze was wafting in from the windows of my motel room. Every bone in my body ached, yet I also felt as light as rain.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCYjNS7-zgWVchQcTrOxLrEGeHzL2EMfzzDlBbI7ET9tixJvUWfkO7XqB7L6xS7sWxMLliOmc5oN-PCf-roCucvxGNkTW-uOHO_rGfBkVlShcljIG3TElm_-vgVXu-FwV4aljzaWbi1c/s1600/l03p73.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCYjNS7-zgWVchQcTrOxLrEGeHzL2EMfzzDlBbI7ET9tixJvUWfkO7XqB7L6xS7sWxMLliOmc5oN-PCf-roCucvxGNkTW-uOHO_rGfBkVlShcljIG3TElm_-vgVXu-FwV4aljzaWbi1c/s640/l03p73.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had a full breakfast, and went walking towards the beach of Olympos again, like I had done many times before in <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2014/06/a-walk-across-beach-of-olympos-at.html" target="_blank">other visits</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhux8mm0sIY0kefPrY24kuPF3YxN4zoDMp8ydVwInzVKAkQPRkft2wpuVwnBwF6lp8ogT6FiOi0cEPDpW0oWCzo6_CXCUok8B8gm_Le-mqGG8BuRYoJG_GxpQ7Uk_Hh8rVDc-92MmO7TVM/s1600/l03p74.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhux8mm0sIY0kefPrY24kuPF3YxN4zoDMp8ydVwInzVKAkQPRkft2wpuVwnBwF6lp8ogT6FiOi0cEPDpW0oWCzo6_CXCUok8B8gm_Le-mqGG8BuRYoJG_GxpQ7Uk_Hh8rVDc-92MmO7TVM/s640/l03p74.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I sat down on the beach, read issues of the <a href="http://www.economist.com/" target="_blank">Economist</a> and dozed off into a delicious nap for about an hour.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj70z3GciUQ4LPg-9pxUWgmL8WpqGsiXXZPz5FVVwGv6CGNqBscnQ05kwXeFryxoG_FcFp_8o9-rZSCg9aPUEaAuQeFIZi6Re4HGEnhsCBx6eTRgTelluJEY9EWj93ZZ93N3Xcu7hv0g8/s1600/l03p75.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj70z3GciUQ4LPg-9pxUWgmL8WpqGsiXXZPz5FVVwGv6CGNqBscnQ05kwXeFryxoG_FcFp_8o9-rZSCg9aPUEaAuQeFIZi6Re4HGEnhsCBx6eTRgTelluJEY9EWj93ZZ93N3Xcu7hv0g8/s640/l03p75.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This eerie, flat and sleek-looking <i>Gnaphosid </i>spider crawled out from beneath my blanket as I woke up. These spiders were very rare and their classification remained quite problematic. It left a very weird impression on me: for no particular reason, I felt as if encountering this animal was the ultimate purpose of my trek.<br />
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People got funny thoughts like that after going through difficult experiences. I guess I was still a bit jittery after getting lost the night before. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUIXqbdDJEigcDIslq2z0We0sQgoyCzf6jRdET9Uj1Wxcs4wzHCC6Az0t0Dy4XqHfrXZ8pp3ZZVhw4mfUomb_YSU-3JZ7KzQeDNu35_cIxOPYd9a4p18sLMjpD7f-c4hdfeiS-l8sIewE/s1600/l03p76.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUIXqbdDJEigcDIslq2z0We0sQgoyCzf6jRdET9Uj1Wxcs4wzHCC6Az0t0Dy4XqHfrXZ8pp3ZZVhw4mfUomb_YSU-3JZ7KzQeDNu35_cIxOPYd9a4p18sLMjpD7f-c4hdfeiS-l8sIewE/s640/l03p76.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I walked back to Çıralı town for lunch. A quiet and secluded place, it now seemed as busy and urban as Times Square after three days on my own.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipei4XzsiyA_Y-u0C6GRqsxfqfymIrEeprkWulUj0jjpkxAfkTWR3ed1nEj-09sS0AWSBpmosT3I7usucs21m5WKRKG3C16wSjNwVVF1jkjtYfCjadbExtNd2WbkFtY6R6LzKMYQN9iH4/s1600/l03p77.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipei4XzsiyA_Y-u0C6GRqsxfqfymIrEeprkWulUj0jjpkxAfkTWR3ed1nEj-09sS0AWSBpmosT3I7usucs21m5WKRKG3C16wSjNwVVF1jkjtYfCjadbExtNd2WbkFtY6R6LzKMYQN9iH4/s640/l03p77.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It was time that I rewarded myself. I sat down at <a href="http://www.karakusrestaurantcirali.com/en/index.html" target="_blank">Karakuş Restaurant</a>, that peerless establishment, ordered a dish of their best seafood and some beer, and started sketching.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLkbzVjGe8v1p0bqClYs2iwxOMzYvsJhXRvh12kWLopJIlqZgqOMxRFPGC2_n1tmK7om4hQyIwHmn6cgppAJMf1UuKRO98H5QcmKjOKOofgXOtDFQtIlkoT-FYMr0wnq2hA5_jeAiO1Ew/s1600/l03p78.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLkbzVjGe8v1p0bqClYs2iwxOMzYvsJhXRvh12kWLopJIlqZgqOMxRFPGC2_n1tmK7om4hQyIwHmn6cgppAJMf1UuKRO98H5QcmKjOKOofgXOtDFQtIlkoT-FYMr0wnq2hA5_jeAiO1Ew/s640/l03p78.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This pencil composition emerged after an hour or so of automatic drawing. I guess the influence of my three-day-trek was easy to see in the branching plants, the walking figure with needles of pain in his calves, the details reminiscent of spider eyes and fangs, and so on.<br />
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It was an unforgettable experience, filled with human weirdness, perverted outsider art, natural wonders of every sort, reptilian encounters, mystifying arachnids, new friends, poignant memories and unexpected risk. I thought of the final lines of <i><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea_at_the_Palaz_of_Hoon" target="_blank">Tea at the Palaz of Hoon</a></i>, a sublime poem by the recently-deceased Wallace Stevens, and felt glad have embarked on this adventure by myself.<br />
<br />
<i>I was the world in which I walked, and what I saw</i><br />
<i>Or heard, or felt came not but from myself;</i><br />
<i>And there I found myself more truly and more strange.</i><br />
<br />
The loneliness, of course, was only meaningful thanks to the contrast offered by the love of my friends and family. Everyone needed some alone time every now and then, and I was glad that mine was soon about to end.<br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
</div>
C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-25325954507869144852016-05-09T03:22:00.000-07:002019-05-30T01:08:14.511-07:00A Diorama of Human Evolution and Other Specimens at Ankara's MTA Natural History Museum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n May 2016, I received news that the diorama of human evolution at Ankara's <a href="http://www.mta.gov.tr/v2.0/eng/daire-baskanliklari/ttm/" target="_blank">MTA Natural History Museum</a> had been removed by conservative authorities. I had visited the museum numerous times, the last in 2011, when I had photographed its quirky human evolution diorama and associated exhibits.</div>
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<b>Below is a brief selection of photographs from my previous visits to the MTA Museum.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1h7u7154QSEVn_pEed-Mmlm6u9EEQkFc-7CAgX1sIvMoobbf-ARqHuVHOk4R2AEpg8REHitzVRBQ_fqMuSblCTIK1fzgDNP7vU1Urm6cZVDLUYtP5eclgij1q7kws9yOP6vhH6drp69s/s1600/mta00.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1h7u7154QSEVn_pEed-Mmlm6u9EEQkFc-7CAgX1sIvMoobbf-ARqHuVHOk4R2AEpg8REHitzVRBQ_fqMuSblCTIK1fzgDNP7vU1Urm6cZVDLUYtP5eclgij1q7kws9yOP6vhH6drp69s/s640/mta00.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB5OgCjrR7AVTH87z21KJZL3Z6IcE_avwpQe3WUYuo4gpEUPWvzjL1f9qkTg0_OL8uw7crp5tNcbedOI_UlpXxKihgDCyVjCEifyBf8FB2QREghBAyvnaETlX-ND-gXF_eNgjhSSsww4I/s1600/mta01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB5OgCjrR7AVTH87z21KJZL3Z6IcE_avwpQe3WUYuo4gpEUPWvzjL1f9qkTg0_OL8uw7crp5tNcbedOI_UlpXxKihgDCyVjCEifyBf8FB2QREghBAyvnaETlX-ND-gXF_eNgjhSSsww4I/s640/mta01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Neanderthal diorama seemed to have started out as a relief, and somehow turned into a half-sculpture as the work progressed.</div>
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One of the notable specimens in the evolution exhibit was this warped skull of an early hominin. Both this skull and the half-relief Neanderthal were photographed in 2011 - they were no longer on display at the time I wrote this post.</div>
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Aside from the evolution diorama, the museum also housed a sizeable collection of minerals, marine fossils, prehistoric mammals and (imported and outdated) dinosaur skeletons, as well as some awfully taxidermied animals from the present-day fauna of Turkey. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguIXAqa7oe1_4aqWSh_LBwkPKVFfXJ82qJtTqwnQsSgaDFn1hLySw-e-CQsN-OkCeEahnBVoypJ6iaI9iBA5FlKE2I0L4Jzwu01rSaiUThTZKWowfOr7BYeI-es6g4ACuRWpGaHg_k7aY/s1600/mta6.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguIXAqa7oe1_4aqWSh_LBwkPKVFfXJ82qJtTqwnQsSgaDFn1hLySw-e-CQsN-OkCeEahnBVoypJ6iaI9iBA5FlKE2I0L4Jzwu01rSaiUThTZKWowfOr7BYeI-es6g4ACuRWpGaHg_k7aY/s640/mta6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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An awful-looking Anatolian leopard, <i>Panthera pardus tulliana</i>.</div>
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A shrivelled assortment of Turkish snakes and lizards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg05Qkhue27lds8wu6fGOv-3lfMG0yyAnmdtn8F-J1atB6WDlGsPS0pNjQqQ9fM6KgjjnhJRf-53SEqU3TUuPceV6fDQe6oAc9O8YsZ1ggSFDkffPmls1m5nnUifn5t6gFeRH4mBXwHkos/s1600/mta4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg05Qkhue27lds8wu6fGOv-3lfMG0yyAnmdtn8F-J1atB6WDlGsPS0pNjQqQ9fM6KgjjnhJRf-53SEqU3TUuPceV6fDQe6oAc9O8YsZ1ggSFDkffPmls1m5nnUifn5t6gFeRH4mBXwHkos/s640/mta4.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A great eagle owl, <i>Bubo bubo</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPg8atakcNgro9aPcou5jVxNeunKFHkWebwcxtTr9hFN7TxLrKSWFj5-8uXNvY7LhQEw6cvJJtUcj60d3mTDBT_vup5ZsrzhhTdiLEFVpXUXMcQWhky2VlI3zLvs5D78F_26P8DwVDDHI/s1600/mta3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPg8atakcNgro9aPcou5jVxNeunKFHkWebwcxtTr9hFN7TxLrKSWFj5-8uXNvY7LhQEw6cvJJtUcj60d3mTDBT_vup5ZsrzhhTdiLEFVpXUXMcQWhky2VlI3zLvs5D78F_26P8DwVDDHI/s640/mta3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Two other, ruffled-looking owls which I could not identify.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRIszc_vinAbSh9WbzhV2pZIeBlrSa21c6RI73eFNkGcP0x_lRRq9zqQ6HxkitG-0Un2Wkk4wG8DWlHSdS-52dLFctRtmgUynnZotKzMcbeMjpSKtEcsoEL_FMfITWk5-TxqwUnCy4Rk/s1600/mta7.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRIszc_vinAbSh9WbzhV2pZIeBlrSa21c6RI73eFNkGcP0x_lRRq9zqQ6HxkitG-0Un2Wkk4wG8DWlHSdS-52dLFctRtmgUynnZotKzMcbeMjpSKtEcsoEL_FMfITWk5-TxqwUnCy4Rk/s640/mta7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Various dried fish.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZrTcN0Ktl5_89aDlvvRuiotqtbSBdYlqFygVWnMlocWyfdQPzkCiytFbfQ3_uHEh_vLystKexWwaPiWx6JYK7Yj9J94gE3lEZLmqUL2x94TI1yU9dwNok-CoEr2nnjLzUxS1ZkusdZ0/s1600/mta8.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZrTcN0Ktl5_89aDlvvRuiotqtbSBdYlqFygVWnMlocWyfdQPzkCiytFbfQ3_uHEh_vLystKexWwaPiWx6JYK7Yj9J94gE3lEZLmqUL2x94TI1yU9dwNok-CoEr2nnjLzUxS1ZkusdZ0/s640/mta8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A horrid-looking ground squirrel, <i>Spermophilus sp</i>. (right), and a completely unidentifiable animal (left), looking like caricatures of people under the influence of heavy drugs.</div>
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Something that used to be an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angora_rabbit" target="_blank">angora rabbit</a>; one of the three famous domestic animal breeds (the others are the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkish_Angora" target="_blank">angora cat</a> and the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angora_goat" target="_blank">angora goat</a>), originating from Ankara; the city that the MTA was located in.</div>
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A sea turtle, <i>Caretta caretta</i>, pretending to lay eggs among a diorama of sand, seashells and shattered, bone-dry crabs. The fake stock-image horizon and the ugly surroundings reminded me of a nuclear apocalypse. This was by far the most depressing animal diorama in the museum.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWPsebwFm_byB979aQU5VZkCmQDy9iziDLgtbm7UgDJ1obz96kX1Vd6PpaQWXreM92pNadoyUNTdBAo0G5EI04wzdGKubpLq6aIp3Ghc5IZKRvukDJ2mDOhbppor5DbLD2hdkiNeJIoE/s1600/mta11.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWPsebwFm_byB979aQU5VZkCmQDy9iziDLgtbm7UgDJ1obz96kX1Vd6PpaQWXreM92pNadoyUNTdBAo0G5EI04wzdGKubpLq6aIp3Ghc5IZKRvukDJ2mDOhbppor5DbLD2hdkiNeJIoE/s640/mta11.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Finally, flamingos, <i>Phoenicopterus roseus;</i> and other waterbirds.</div>
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This concluded my brief tour of the museum. I was saddened to see the evolution diorama go, but one can still visit the MTA museum to see the other specimens.</div>
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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<b>PS: </b>I also accessed an old documentary of the museum, you can view it below:<br /><br /> <iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8fbNs_RBKgQ" width="560"></iframe></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-59734425979458187522016-03-25T08:36:00.001-07:002018-03-08T05:22:29.574-08:00The Great Australian Critter Quest<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39EgLSStIe05eapYy8Wjh4IrxvAF4Zrs3D55tF9hGsqIYP5Z2RjW0KXyvsGANlg-T-8gPpkJ1mTFTvS2dhICnCbyYD19LIJP0l7v-4DybgNGeFsTNwhLVOE6lh_nR812tPnCNnjRyzqY/s1600/auc+s+ls+04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39EgLSStIe05eapYy8Wjh4IrxvAF4Zrs3D55tF9hGsqIYP5Z2RjW0KXyvsGANlg-T-8gPpkJ1mTFTvS2dhICnCbyYD19LIJP0l7v-4DybgNGeFsTNwhLVOE6lh_nR812tPnCNnjRyzqY/s640/auc+s+ls+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In February 2015, I visited <b>Australia </b>in order to give a talk on my book, <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Osman-Hasan-Tombstone-Photographs-D%C3%B6nmes/dp/605432697X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410860927&sr=8-2&keywords=kosemen" target="_blank">Osman Hasan and the Tombstone Photographs of the Dönmes</a>,</i> at the annual conference of the <a href="http://www.aajs.org.au/" target="_blank">Australian Association of Jewish Studies</a>. Hosted by generous family friends, I ended up staying for nearly a month in a beautiful and cathartic experience.</div>
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For me, one of the most intriguing aspects of Australia was the fauna. Not just the fancy kangaroos, koalas and the like, but also little things; <b>the random bugs, birds, lizards, spiders, etc</b>. that ordinary Australians would possibly find boring. While staying in Sydney, and later, on a mini-excursion to Queensland, I took pictures of every such "critter" I could find.</div>
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Almost immediately after arriving, I went to a park near my host family's home in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexandria,_New_South_Wales" target="_blank">Alexandria</a>, to walk around and shed the after-effects of the long flight from Istanbul. Named <a href="http://www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/explore/facilities/parks/major-parks/sydney-park" target="_blank">Sydney Park</a>, this reclaimed industrial zone and landfill area was now home to a profusion of local birds and other critters.</div>
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Invasive <b>feral pigeons</b>, <i>Columba livia</i>, on playground turf. Pigeons were arguably the most boring and urban of all animals. But it was interesting how they had subtle "races" among themselves. Pigeons from Sydney had a different complexion from those in Istanbul and other cities.</div>
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A flock of <b>galahs</b>, <i>Eolophus roseicapilla</i>, was grazing like tiny pink sheep on a slope.</div>
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A gang of <b>common mynas</b>, <i>Acridotheres tristis</i>, were on the prowl nearby, looking for little insects and other food items. Although beautiful and exotic to my eyes, these smart and adaptable birds were actually invasive pests in Australia. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzqytfKEf243YTBrmoDrdLQ6VbZXdT-nCBCUpopX1E9DONQHG5fBbFW08ZPi8R5iClOTVMwn2USvBTXU8kakgzHcYzywNu6EOYPP8X-wlBww_FfRerLTpXn-0v83JkmdWjWkGJYvMf_o/s1600/auc+s+axp+39.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzqytfKEf243YTBrmoDrdLQ6VbZXdT-nCBCUpopX1E9DONQHG5fBbFW08ZPi8R5iClOTVMwn2USvBTXU8kakgzHcYzywNu6EOYPP8X-wlBww_FfRerLTpXn-0v83JkmdWjWkGJYvMf_o/s640/auc+s+axp+39.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Young <b>white-faced herons</b>, <i>Egretta novaehollandiae</i>, were looking for things to eat in one of the artificial pools in the park.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgSBMULchiltaMcO4cqEO5F18qHQ_pDNspf-C-pBFh9FbVmUU9onn9zjWcWSBxF1U2xPzC7WldBJWUPnT3uafggLrZFNKvNE9wpdzT11rfpSnq3uudig6GkKyx6oD9qHsQGSYDjweyz4I/s1600/auc+s+axp+27.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgSBMULchiltaMcO4cqEO5F18qHQ_pDNspf-C-pBFh9FbVmUU9onn9zjWcWSBxF1U2xPzC7WldBJWUPnT3uafggLrZFNKvNE9wpdzT11rfpSnq3uudig6GkKyx6oD9qHsQGSYDjweyz4I/s640/auc+s+axp+27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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An even younger white-faced heron was looking quite kooky with some of its baby feathers still on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KwgZqUYFGk8_ptjMKSnvabbCn0io1i8qvNFsZ-RbTMToKLR_TXRa45KI9bzVGKhNHVKBoBDtGf04_bBeKaFqc29n-vd7IFwasekXf-iEOTQeTtdC_N6fp-OEnPcthyphenhyphendiElBUfM-eyWc/s1600/auc+s+axp+35.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KwgZqUYFGk8_ptjMKSnvabbCn0io1i8qvNFsZ-RbTMToKLR_TXRa45KI9bzVGKhNHVKBoBDtGf04_bBeKaFqc29n-vd7IFwasekXf-iEOTQeTtdC_N6fp-OEnPcthyphenhyphendiElBUfM-eyWc/s640/auc+s+axp+35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With their loud screams and mischievous attitudes, <b>sulphur-crested cockatoos</b>, <i>Cacatua galerita,</i> were one of the most noticeable birds in the city.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXJHzKS3Z9KmPjkOSVdJeiCZo6KRSV71YUDZz1GoRIZvhepe76dt7sfqOAh7lgOAdJ-wD8h3dws3ZPhSVKWOaeuon6RRd8JnA4hZ6iQK0DYTr3C_Ee9faAMQ6xoOSEa6LpiCG1pNQygBU/s1600/auc+s+axp+34.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXJHzKS3Z9KmPjkOSVdJeiCZo6KRSV71YUDZz1GoRIZvhepe76dt7sfqOAh7lgOAdJ-wD8h3dws3ZPhSVKWOaeuon6RRd8JnA4hZ6iQK0DYTr3C_Ee9faAMQ6xoOSEa6LpiCG1pNQygBU/s640/auc+s+axp+34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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More parrots: I saw this band of <b>little corellas</b>, <i>Cacatua sanguinea, </i>feasting on a fruit tree<i> </i>on a street corner a few hundred meters from the park.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigFibT4rKLCFzEmEB8I8MJWsOotl8P-YdvE9XnT04HAr9qo0mSheTkS_VYqXphBFnSrQ-Rudq2ZNaNjb0P2W1AFY8OscbGqTxMk1F95jFUULiMRTQRFkaQ0q6WxXEr72fnDy-riMiULDg/s1600/auc+s+axp+30.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigFibT4rKLCFzEmEB8I8MJWsOotl8P-YdvE9XnT04HAr9qo0mSheTkS_VYqXphBFnSrQ-Rudq2ZNaNjb0P2W1AFY8OscbGqTxMk1F95jFUULiMRTQRFkaQ0q6WxXEr72fnDy-riMiULDg/s640/auc+s+axp+30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another little corella, <i>Cacatua sanguinea.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0POOBU1Q2y5mz7GsqWDihLk_tGPW-36tfvnnmLDoXbxy1um26BL942cq7zCr94BdoKl6Zjp6FrQPmnxL1wqlUvIiMAA-YjyA41BsrPw1IV3yd1Km9V9N_sjT7ptMQ36JDe4JiovpqV9A/s1600/auc+s+axp+33.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0POOBU1Q2y5mz7GsqWDihLk_tGPW-36tfvnnmLDoXbxy1um26BL942cq7zCr94BdoKl6Zjp6FrQPmnxL1wqlUvIiMAA-YjyA41BsrPw1IV3yd1Km9V9N_sjT7ptMQ36JDe4JiovpqV9A/s640/auc+s+axp+33.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The cute birds were later joined by a group <b>white ibises</b>, <i>Threskiornis moluccus.</i> It was a fascinating gathering, I had never seen such birds outside documentaries. To Australians, however, both animals were as perfectly ordinary (and possibly boring), as <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2013/10/mystic-cat-device-and-istanbuls-diy-cat.html" target="_blank">cats were in Istanbul</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnteHl9eO7C7hMpD6VXPE5hdIrYWML1NdRWtOM3mmvm_gY4EeIktSsjcFk8H29qD4XbqkMYkEq_heqTfjERTLlOdWpQIV0llJZdfO39cTDqQgOci128Nmqwoaqs9nhHaAdbHeQiRkp4-w/s1600/auc+s+axp+32.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnteHl9eO7C7hMpD6VXPE5hdIrYWML1NdRWtOM3mmvm_gY4EeIktSsjcFk8H29qD4XbqkMYkEq_heqTfjERTLlOdWpQIV0llJZdfO39cTDqQgOci128Nmqwoaqs9nhHaAdbHeQiRkp4-w/s640/auc+s+axp+32.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A close-up of an ibis, <i>Threskiornis moluccus. </i>It looked like a little dinosaur. I loved the jewel-like scales on its legs and neck. These birds could be seen everywhere in the city, probing bushes, trash-cans, etc. with their beaks for things to eat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuKUnIcuw9puUPb21SttGtYGwTeZAQE0FZu7xPg9wYqZRaO0sJXDRdxiVen9dCospRTtse7ahpxpX3bfTaRcNAM6LRMYMFcOts4iZ4OBttYPQP7LqyfBpPYxMv4vqi845MmJ7TCMHsGxk/s1600/auc+s+axp+31.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuKUnIcuw9puUPb21SttGtYGwTeZAQE0FZu7xPg9wYqZRaO0sJXDRdxiVen9dCospRTtse7ahpxpX3bfTaRcNAM6LRMYMFcOts4iZ4OBttYPQP7LqyfBpPYxMv4vqi845MmJ7TCMHsGxk/s640/auc+s+axp+31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another bird that was strange to my eyes, but completely ordinary in Sydney: the <b>masked lapwing</b>, <i>Vanellus miles</i>. Their complete silence, big eyes and slow, purposeful gait gave them an extremely distinctive and slightly eerie character. Lapwings had <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6b/Spur-Winged-Plover444.jpg/800px-Spur-Winged-Plover444.jpg" target="_blank">knife-like spurs on their wings</a>, which were not visible here.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2_QdlA6VOuS-wu941LEStT9re9bU1oqvWTFVzoD85uZiYGt6C6VW37yRIADcoCYOyU1ng87ssLqyIO605f0OO9GoYsluPp3DgPD7P9J2dlAQHDGGB_CmI_zDSH-O_q2qRsLYowM40m0/s1600/auc+s+axp+29.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2_QdlA6VOuS-wu941LEStT9re9bU1oqvWTFVzoD85uZiYGt6C6VW37yRIADcoCYOyU1ng87ssLqyIO605f0OO9GoYsluPp3DgPD7P9J2dlAQHDGGB_CmI_zDSH-O_q2qRsLYowM40m0/s640/auc+s+axp+29.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I saw this group of <b>Pacific black ducks</b>, <i>Anas superciliosa</i>, by an artificial pond. Natives of the region, these ducks were threatened by <a href="http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/domestic-ducks-raping-australian-natives-putting-them-at-risk-of-extinction/story-e6freuyi-1225880790480" target="_blank">mass-rape-induced-crossbreeding</a> by introduced mallards, <i>Anas platyrhynchos</i>, which were known to be <a href="http://scienceblogs.com/tetrapodzoology/2010/03/23/duck-sex-to-interfere-or-not/" target="_blank">notorious rapists</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDgcFhybJwTR-NaMnMk6wrIfp07buj-st_5M90OT0LV5G2t2v5Qg3sEcH3u46W98oOJAfi3HvAgEXYai5YNgXHVvR63HawHr_JtuXFL5ELZ2KPWfCJTNiX7l2hvfi7lQuH-ZHZQvOFQjI/s1600/auc+s+axp+26.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDgcFhybJwTR-NaMnMk6wrIfp07buj-st_5M90OT0LV5G2t2v5Qg3sEcH3u46W98oOJAfi3HvAgEXYai5YNgXHVvR63HawHr_JtuXFL5ELZ2KPWfCJTNiX7l2hvfi7lQuH-ZHZQvOFQjI/s640/auc+s+axp+26.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The ducks were later joined by this <b>dusky moorhen</b>, <i>Gallinula tenebrosa</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpg1rGv5QcUFfCN4Fjie88oY4uW1PcbE9QGSmL633S8ttMitDLg0-cnZzkhQCbatC_CyMnbNYOoFB_21ds-EXgbM74h0678fXgJttSSLWZSJyyHbQmsGU5CrkUo66lwLWC_vn0lECpGy0/s1600/auc+s+axp+25.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpg1rGv5QcUFfCN4Fjie88oY4uW1PcbE9QGSmL633S8ttMitDLg0-cnZzkhQCbatC_CyMnbNYOoFB_21ds-EXgbM74h0678fXgJttSSLWZSJyyHbQmsGU5CrkUo66lwLWC_vn0lECpGy0/s640/auc+s+axp+25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I also saw this <b>crested pigeon</b>, <i>Ocyphaps (Geophaps) lophotes</i>, standing perfectly still among the pebbles near the pond. Check out that little spiky crest; what a bizarre, cute bird.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkWdxC-wLpE0k4Vn-6IYbxFZkdaC2TGuVw3KrgrOZCq5G6iCKYOzgtNZxT3JrEB7EyvDmemATNW1dLmlj9HhQElqEL02hZ8mBAqk8C7FVWr1cXeoHeutfY-e_ejP7FDn2tRg6liLUETU/s1600/auc+s+axp+07.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkWdxC-wLpE0k4Vn-6IYbxFZkdaC2TGuVw3KrgrOZCq5G6iCKYOzgtNZxT3JrEB7EyvDmemATNW1dLmlj9HhQElqEL02hZ8mBAqk8C7FVWr1cXeoHeutfY-e_ejP7FDn2tRg6liLUETU/s640/auc+s+axp+07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then moved into the "undergrowth," looking for more obscure critters. By then I was having something like an <b>amateur zoologist's epiphany</b>; I was just out of a very long, jet-lag-inducing flight, the weather, the atmosphere, light, and even the texture of the soil were all completely different, and I had seen more interesting animals in this one urban park than I had in Turkey in decades.</div>
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I sat under some trees, and soon, something like a tiny black dinosaur ran past me...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zX0KevZqPNDJaE4vHWjenZe4qr8jYzD-Af8cc6TvRmpamTmSO0o0sOVfefinKtY4qB_TNYh-FbAzIundgrALdEFnFReozlWM2yYnXuBQKoI3NpKUGiQeHc8fip44lO4zr9dcfoLWNBY/s1600/auc+s+axp+05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zX0KevZqPNDJaE4vHWjenZe4qr8jYzD-Af8cc6TvRmpamTmSO0o0sOVfefinKtY4qB_TNYh-FbAzIundgrALdEFnFReozlWM2yYnXuBQKoI3NpKUGiQeHc8fip44lO4zr9dcfoLWNBY/s640/auc+s+axp+05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...it was a <b>pied currawong</b>, <i>Strepera graculina</i>. These birds were extremely smart analogues of crows, magpies of relatives, native to the Australasian region. They looked like crows, but in fact belonged to a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cracticinae" target="_blank">completely different family</a>; perfect examples of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convergent_evolution" target="_blank">convergent evolution</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeYeuCwy-fXp9BBHaW-SLa2oa-qsokuw_VAYjDOZHvW47jIRBILuAmHd925HvNh1EPtF4Aw1Sfw0zjaPSM5Y87fcv4C5GcWirW9XrFqbLnvOq4N0yE7dyAVCixMUW_rjt7JjieKwWwaA/s1600/auc+s+axp+06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeYeuCwy-fXp9BBHaW-SLa2oa-qsokuw_VAYjDOZHvW47jIRBILuAmHd925HvNh1EPtF4Aw1Sfw0zjaPSM5Y87fcv4C5GcWirW9XrFqbLnvOq4N0yE7dyAVCixMUW_rjt7JjieKwWwaA/s640/auc+s+axp+06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I can't tell you how interesting this creature was. It looked like a crow from back home, but the subtle differences in its anatomy, the graceful angles of its neck and beak, plus the strange way it seemed to be animated by an intelligence of a higher order than most birds... all added up to a world of difference.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZViNxOVNweUp8SXxtPzrkVlRTb4h1VpqiP1thGeSNh3SwaQxop6ys7TuYQduKEuhJWHipPOQqJVvM2FKk17L3tqNWIlTSdUctPPbPS3IXHO2BLe02tlcPqueW4bf3mVFc7YoE_lnr_qs/s1600/auc+s+axp+03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZViNxOVNweUp8SXxtPzrkVlRTb4h1VpqiP1thGeSNh3SwaQxop6ys7TuYQduKEuhJWHipPOQqJVvM2FKk17L3tqNWIlTSdUctPPbPS3IXHO2BLe02tlcPqueW4bf3mVFc7YoE_lnr_qs/s640/auc+s+axp+03.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A short distance away, I encountered this magnificent relative of the currawong, an <b>Australian magpie</b>, <i>Cracticus tibicen. </i>It looked straight into my eyes and sang a bizarre song. It was a mesmerizing moment. The magpie reminded me of the <a href="http://povorot.deviantart.com/gallery/9348116/The-Dinosauroids" target="_blank">intelligent dinosaurs</a> me and my friend Simon Roy dreamt up a few years ago.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAMJOw-2938g_d66g0j4mfj_N2xNmPfXX_LK91XwWPdLkdFMFZZ5G4wgPlf3ugo6OlHPQ_1YVrlHPUxLtm_Yi3Vqr9ALZs6_tXXbgW6bAKQ3PiN0lnSbF1h2QWsKbSPbav8u0NiZYkF9A/s1600/auc+s+axp+01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAMJOw-2938g_d66g0j4mfj_N2xNmPfXX_LK91XwWPdLkdFMFZZ5G4wgPlf3ugo6OlHPQ_1YVrlHPUxLtm_Yi3Vqr9ALZs6_tXXbgW6bAKQ3PiN0lnSbF1h2QWsKbSPbav8u0NiZYkF9A/s640/auc+s+axp+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I followed the magpie-mimic into the undergrowth, where it dug around for small insects.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8ioA-jjUy9weOncxOjd1-Ax-O5CJHS1HQN0kZHEKjQs64dLQrBWtcpA8Sle2U-pAJM0UWdMaa9T7KPktpveXIH82Ar0MyJj7YskGgNr9vEVsURZIjzPQ-SAdDIcHqYA1jvdqW5dhZI0/s1600/auc+s+axp+07xx.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8ioA-jjUy9weOncxOjd1-Ax-O5CJHS1HQN0kZHEKjQs64dLQrBWtcpA8Sle2U-pAJM0UWdMaa9T7KPktpveXIH82Ar0MyJj7YskGgNr9vEVsURZIjzPQ-SAdDIcHqYA1jvdqW5dhZI0/s640/auc+s+axp+07xx.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These two birds left such an impression on me that I later used them for the basis of these <b>two paintings</b>. You can see more of my artwork <a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/art" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwlkWnDHl4xsGsue0C0DtZLQs13Lg2gPvqVfhtbHFNLHGNQusTLHo3yDdJ4wbzgOzArptv18vTK4GOkqkKamxPPxWMK19ly0CEO_DXogOwyfjYPC9bgz5fHzaFrQOsM1tfX4vovwep6lA/s1600/auc+s+axp+04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwlkWnDHl4xsGsue0C0DtZLQs13Lg2gPvqVfhtbHFNLHGNQusTLHo3yDdJ4wbzgOzArptv18vTK4GOkqkKamxPPxWMK19ly0CEO_DXogOwyfjYPC9bgz5fHzaFrQOsM1tfX4vovwep6lA/s640/auc+s+axp+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another smart-looking black-and-white bird was this <b>magpie-lark</b>, <i>Grallina cyanoleuca</i>. It, too, looked like something from the crow-magpie or the currawong lineage, but instead belonged to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monarch_flycatcher" target="_blank">yet another group</a> of perching birds. These birds were said to be <a href="http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-04-28/adelaide-swooping-birds-warning-sign/6426942" target="_blank">aggressively territorial</a>, but this one must have been a mild-mannered specimen.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1MYpAHxv2TbkUwC1zAg2HcQhbID6h98f8COiU2DI7J6C8yHSLV5-YGursfBtehZo2mWNHteXL5UzBIxgQ8Rb1shyphenhyphenKh7kWMpHZ42xr7TWYhI1r5NEFyfSChaJiD41pYykJrN9VY-Z5P8/s1600/auc+s+axp+08.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1MYpAHxv2TbkUwC1zAg2HcQhbID6h98f8COiU2DI7J6C8yHSLV5-YGursfBtehZo2mWNHteXL5UzBIxgQ8Rb1shyphenhyphenKh7kWMpHZ42xr7TWYhI1r5NEFyfSChaJiD41pYykJrN9VY-Z5P8/s640/auc+s+axp+08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Like the birds, I also rooted around in the undergrowth and among the bushes for glimpses of <b>smaller animals.</b> I started turning over rocks, logs and digging through the leaf-litter. One of my first spots was this reddish, tropical <b>ichneumon wasp</b>, <i>Ichneumonidae sp</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6uGjneaZkYdIM49X2kx2kCyG4VLNiLNx4SxxzNpoVQNaKyfMyzzMFNxHj2dLIT0SIg-eMzVJQEWT92xmmuOmEmu46yQel4v2Mjqa9mdIMcmb7HWD-q0RTUL7QytWC6NrkimFC2AUX9E/s1600/auc+s+axp+09.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6uGjneaZkYdIM49X2kx2kCyG4VLNiLNx4SxxzNpoVQNaKyfMyzzMFNxHj2dLIT0SIg-eMzVJQEWT92xmmuOmEmu46yQel4v2Mjqa9mdIMcmb7HWD-q0RTUL7QytWC6NrkimFC2AUX9E/s640/auc+s+axp+09.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Among the many invertebrates I found was this <b>creamy white millipede</b>. Determining the exact species of such animals is very difficult, so I could not give a species or even a genus name for this guy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi092BH93vPINLOXRa96Ytx91rnzdQ7ya6-gwSVTkWgT6j71HVSIatzuSR2DS8OTaUBZRDAByTxh0A-2J8nLB0JQt-_UtQml21RrHWdDNATxHjvZ2Dt0QHNgGk-SmxpCh1iY8TV0bTH8Y0/s1600/auc+s+axp+10.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi092BH93vPINLOXRa96Ytx91rnzdQ7ya6-gwSVTkWgT6j71HVSIatzuSR2DS8OTaUBZRDAByTxh0A-2J8nLB0JQt-_UtQml21RrHWdDNATxHjvZ2Dt0QHNgGk-SmxpCh1iY8TV0bTH8Y0/s640/auc+s+axp+10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I walked over to a gully at the side of the park, where someone had left mattresses and discarded bags in the undergrowth. Beneath an old backpack, I found this mother <b>brown huntsman spider</b>, <i>Heteropoda cervina</i>, guarding her batch of eggs. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYADFf8ry6x_umXfwLHeoRMXmyZ4AtlBaQ4tzmoHZ7wqlqfMq3-eYXbwF6D1QNseuLTB9_abVmXYHaGXm-idiKxrfIDpVd5QCRm-_Q503fJ1U3NOq5_woWolFXncdqmKsN_i9X53fYJuU/s1600/auc+s+axp+11.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYADFf8ry6x_umXfwLHeoRMXmyZ4AtlBaQ4tzmoHZ7wqlqfMq3-eYXbwF6D1QNseuLTB9_abVmXYHaGXm-idiKxrfIDpVd5QCRm-_Q503fJ1U3NOq5_woWolFXncdqmKsN_i9X53fYJuU/s640/auc+s+axp+11.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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She looked terrifying, and seemed to have fended off more than one attack to her brood - two legs on her right-hand side were missing. I carefully replaced the backpack and left the mother spider alone.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDVtsQqurrB8SF8-c4HtWftt1xiSBXwlos8cfwvzUkSLwBDBh4twwOD_nWEATrvZzKUmIUpuhIsc_hwm7hNGSCcZWAMZQ7APzZj8Dg8JxmmDRVUKBaldN8gLv868lnx4nW6-Dm7LpYEA/s1600/auc+s+axp+12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDVtsQqurrB8SF8-c4HtWftt1xiSBXwlos8cfwvzUkSLwBDBh4twwOD_nWEATrvZzKUmIUpuhIsc_hwm7hNGSCcZWAMZQ7APzZj8Dg8JxmmDRVUKBaldN8gLv868lnx4nW6-Dm7LpYEA/s640/auc+s+axp+12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Beneath another piece of garbage I saw a most interesting, worm-like creature whose skin had the consistency of a plastic sex toy. It was no ordinary worm, but a <b>terrestrial planarian</b>, (<i>Geoplanidae</i>). This one is a blue garden flatworm, <i>Caenoplana coerulea. </i></div>
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These creatures came from a distinct lineage, different from all other worms and other invertebrates. They were successful predators and fed on snails, slugs and other invertebrates using a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY-kU7gEBuw" target="_blank">bizarre gut-mouth system</a> that opened from the sides of their bodies.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMg9m8P5eMIPdHmfTOKbGOJTHKE05P7a78QzQexnEvAORDTWR_rdwSGue6-AfxoEHxTbg0dXTQDBgZXHKBpi34YlU7njg178TjT5P91KTd-mbH-RY6l6sx2qzamoUDL6xz1P7TFyzX8ps/s1600/auc+s+axp+18.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMg9m8P5eMIPdHmfTOKbGOJTHKE05P7a78QzQexnEvAORDTWR_rdwSGue6-AfxoEHxTbg0dXTQDBgZXHKBpi34YlU7njg178TjT5P91KTd-mbH-RY6l6sx2qzamoUDL6xz1P7TFyzX8ps/s640/auc+s+axp+18.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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More strangeness from the undergrowth: the unashamedly-named <b>stinkhorn fungus</b>, <i>Phallus rubicundus.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKILULLLnK8DXPXcuGbcT1_lLr1hI8xaT5vsaXh2OEOUPBv7kM3a3Qj3uQSA-FmoeNizUVAX7tFDmYXHH3t9Cm88W4zkTFA9Rg2ysS4rXAkxHueoFp3y-Fq69VsgpqdrwHLgN7etQG3s/s1600/auc+s+axp+42.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKILULLLnK8DXPXcuGbcT1_lLr1hI8xaT5vsaXh2OEOUPBv7kM3a3Qj3uQSA-FmoeNizUVAX7tFDmYXHH3t9Cm88W4zkTFA9Rg2ysS4rXAkxHueoFp3y-Fq69VsgpqdrwHLgN7etQG3s/s640/auc+s+axp+42.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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These red, <b>anemone fungi</b>, <i>Aseroe rubra</i>, were blossoming a short distance away. My naughty mind immediately saw them as vaginal counterparts to the phallic fungi I saw earlier. The chipped wood mulch of the parkland was a fertile breeding growth for these fungi, they were considered to be pests in local gardens.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOdb_qltuat9fIYUV4cb-Lqxszxt50xJmRhMufnQ3kACW5JGahREaiizHFfsssbj3U3rPQFmZbNO9TgSyo-m4KcJ-riS15RiNcipRCdjFZAhD3r3b63UMWCGMPtpeH_J23jx_3R6RXrg/s1600/auc+s+axp+16.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOdb_qltuat9fIYUV4cb-Lqxszxt50xJmRhMufnQ3kACW5JGahREaiizHFfsssbj3U3rPQFmZbNO9TgSyo-m4KcJ-riS15RiNcipRCdjFZAhD3r3b63UMWCGMPtpeH_J23jx_3R6RXrg/s640/auc+s+axp+16.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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In a nearby open area among the trees, I came across these <b>giant spiders</b>, suspended in mid-air on invisible threads. Up to a dozen of them were standing motionlessly in a tangle of communal webs. I knew these to be giant orb-weaving spiders, <i>Nephila plumipes</i>. I had read about them, seen their photos online, etc. for many years. Seeing these spiders in real life was another moment of amateur-zoology-enthusiast's catharsis.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDf_jASf1oM0Bsm9w-BXOoTaq_KtmmjU-ruQ2d8wfQ6haPVKcaOFkVcCJGadqfE_Wy8-Zr1hbxq_RJFur2elgBcBjLuoEJ7bjS5XsLcZqGfGcbQGxbdNa49Ng4eG2-Qqg7KWHpsfgrKWU/s1600/auc+s+axp+17.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDf_jASf1oM0Bsm9w-BXOoTaq_KtmmjU-ruQ2d8wfQ6haPVKcaOFkVcCJGadqfE_Wy8-Zr1hbxq_RJFur2elgBcBjLuoEJ7bjS5XsLcZqGfGcbQGxbdNa49Ng4eG2-Qqg7KWHpsfgrKWU/s640/auc+s+axp+17.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Here is how big they could get. <i>Nephila </i>spiders looked like an <b>arachnophobe's nightmare</b>, and there are pictures of them feeding on <a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/6e/0c/9a/6e0c9abf9d9bd37cae8ab9676393743a.jpg" target="_blank">snakes</a>, <a href="http://cbsnews2.cbsistatic.com/hub/i/r/2013/03/18/118fe12f-a738-11e2-a3f0-029118418759/thumbnail/620x350/cae57764906e8085eeba9a53cb757968/bat-eating-spider-620-DOOR.jpg" target="_blank">bats</a> and <a href="https://bugfreak.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/spider-eating-bird-01.jpg" target="_blank">small birds</a>. Despite this, they were harmless to people. In some parts of the world, these animals were plucked from their webs, roasted and eaten as a delicacy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWliY3NZnG9JYP8T0QIvNeEBy-q9GUDSor1BjS2-rjCn-QKnl_VgC5PUMBX6NN_EwJoiL3q2MhWetv8tBtKDNj0259NHkFziKwwJ9q5iQ0g-O5819g6qTnEc3K0oGI-GZ-SUdYI4YzIg/s1600/auc+s+axp+15.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWliY3NZnG9JYP8T0QIvNeEBy-q9GUDSor1BjS2-rjCn-QKnl_VgC5PUMBX6NN_EwJoiL3q2MhWetv8tBtKDNj0259NHkFziKwwJ9q5iQ0g-O5819g6qTnEc3K0oGI-GZ-SUdYI4YzIg/s640/auc+s+axp+15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I found these blind subterranean <b>termites</b>, <i>Coptotermes acinaciformis,</i> under a log. These insects were serious pests in Australia.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5ibGCNDVLZk1_7R6jZ8BIlPySz5b5dz9EnnV71cb0cnBY08EoDyUEi4gm24otV1xh6Iferjq9LWsMy9-bOqS1IlGuqpktxRghKZS1E0Qkj3hbfLKyRhequdFzKWhXu-KM9IWm-EkJ00/s1600/auc+s+axp+14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5ibGCNDVLZk1_7R6jZ8BIlPySz5b5dz9EnnV71cb0cnBY08EoDyUEi4gm24otV1xh6Iferjq9LWsMy9-bOqS1IlGuqpktxRghKZS1E0Qkj3hbfLKyRhequdFzKWhXu-KM9IWm-EkJ00/s640/auc+s+axp+14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another millipede, from a species I couldn't decipher.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIkqayzKdyy0teVcpZZuiVFtm2Yf8gPWQy-UP6G2vM9gdZMxF5memufHX0dtHt-Yb6Z0bPq3t8Rqd6zn7792nqJbAsahejvJFYSgPdmPpu-c9ZJVft0p78CoCc7m5uobgjDrNxyVhzZP4/s1600/auc+s+axp+13.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIkqayzKdyy0teVcpZZuiVFtm2Yf8gPWQy-UP6G2vM9gdZMxF5memufHX0dtHt-Yb6Z0bPq3t8Rqd6zn7792nqJbAsahejvJFYSgPdmPpu-c9ZJVft0p78CoCc7m5uobgjDrNxyVhzZP4/s640/auc+s+axp+13.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Trees all around the park were littered with the phantom-like husks of a recent cicada brood, <i>Cicadoidea </i>sp. Australia had over 200 species of <a href="http://sci-s03.bacs.uq.edu.au/ins-info/index.htm" target="_blank">cicadas</a> and dozens lived in the Sydney region.</div>
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Australians really liked cicadas, and many varieties had <a href="http://www.cicadamania.com/cicadas/australian-cicada-names/" target="_blank">colourful local names</a> such as the <b>Green Grocer</b>, <b>Yellow Monday, Blue Moon</b> and the <b>Masked Devil</b> - all of them <i>Cyclochila australasiae, </i>the <b>Whiskey Drinker</b> - <i>Macrotristria angularis</i>, the <b>Brown Bunyip</b> - <i>Tamasa tristigma, </i>the legendary <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psaltoda_plaga" target="_blank">Black Prince</a></b> - <i>Psaltoda plaga, </i>the <b>Typewriter </b>- <i>Pauropsalta extrema</i> and so on.</div>
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The names sounded more like cocktail drinks than things people would normally ascribe to insects, a nice reflection of the affection people had for animals in this strange continent.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHcIA5VpPxye-X49qGb3ddjgi2ZQdWlnnWcryqjQy3aIzNbIvYpJvMeU1VaacbSlCf9e5AQdSRuUE0DEjhyphenhyphenMSZr3sIDJiOl0jOuuHNeilo6YxiWeny7caSmWN6UNLjXGyJ4w-QqnCGEms/s1600/auc+s+axp+20.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHcIA5VpPxye-X49qGb3ddjgi2ZQdWlnnWcryqjQy3aIzNbIvYpJvMeU1VaacbSlCf9e5AQdSRuUE0DEjhyphenhyphenMSZr3sIDJiOl0jOuuHNeilo6YxiWeny7caSmWN6UNLjXGyJ4w-QqnCGEms/s640/auc+s+axp+20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The undergrowth in the park was rustling with these <b>rainbow skinks, </b><i>Lampropholis delicata</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2cOo7F6dod15tDRHIBpcXJwn25fq01aBMPPE9XWpJjOmmPlTVNy-IE9AtBlg6zghyphenhyphenl2IB3ekRrgnljxdzRgsPETZ8DNczObSBUsVVRZ5HCK7ONSQIXTUiFZqU2vjIG0cbpYrs_0dh6k/s1600/auc+s+axp+19.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2cOo7F6dod15tDRHIBpcXJwn25fq01aBMPPE9XWpJjOmmPlTVNy-IE9AtBlg6zghyphenhyphenl2IB3ekRrgnljxdzRgsPETZ8DNczObSBUsVVRZ5HCK7ONSQIXTUiFZqU2vjIG0cbpYrs_0dh6k/s640/auc+s+axp+19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I caught one, and my mind went back to Turkey, when I used to catch similar-looking <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKcLpfS3kj3n8gieJ9HI7BY0pccj2gdGXVvnogmw2xs_W3bajYbHkmF18zyzj2wvl2s_NeqcymP_brzlr_BtpdA1Slw-iyeWePvzNkLMBkbIvBZRwztqUQR1fUOY1WPh8rOwqmV9cNx0/s1600/ol+c+skink03.jpg" target="_blank">Ablepharus</a> </i>skinks in my school backyard as a child.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhsZc8r6eTTUr-rd2vkhEpPTvKGJV9CihhDN3N-loH5HJ77bYyiFCv-FXtvqA4tVY802vB2XJUJ82idNGj93FA0Yg2wyi6AhstR3npQTKgWyNzVnOuSzrO48iJWDWiuiiBlfbBJe4EDo/s1600/auc+s+axp+21.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhsZc8r6eTTUr-rd2vkhEpPTvKGJV9CihhDN3N-loH5HJ77bYyiFCv-FXtvqA4tVY802vB2XJUJ82idNGj93FA0Yg2wyi6AhstR3npQTKgWyNzVnOuSzrO48iJWDWiuiiBlfbBJe4EDo/s640/auc+s+axp+21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another denizen of the undergrowth, an embarrassed-looking <b>striped marsh frog</b>, <i>Limnodynastes peronii</i>. I found it under a piece of wood, close to one of the artificial lakes in the park.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDFvJ-Ln-3M3SsZ0RErxtWTL-cR_PgUfMxMz8hwgjGgAcB1PrBkWd4UnOiFguppd0hzQPUF7uuhyphenhyphenBkw7ILixJXCwSA5tMB1znllClM25vTZ53Z4ua-zCPA0sA12qjj-sfSwCg9eUipcM/s1600/auc+s+axp+23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDFvJ-Ln-3M3SsZ0RErxtWTL-cR_PgUfMxMz8hwgjGgAcB1PrBkWd4UnOiFguppd0hzQPUF7uuhyphenhyphenBkw7ILixJXCwSA5tMB1znllClM25vTZ53Z4ua-zCPA0sA12qjj-sfSwCg9eUipcM/s640/auc+s+axp+23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Outside Sydney park, I came across this neatly-coloured <b>snake-eyed-skink</b>, <i>Cryptoblepharus virgatus </i>by a garden wall. Like the Anatolian <i>Ablepharus </i>skinks I mentioned earlier, these lizards had no eyelids, possibly as an adaptation for living in the undergrowth. These animals were very common in suburban Sydney - one of my friends later showed me pictures of a cheeky specimen entering her house.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDr0s9TrBPnH7jvaFNSENxT3A7JOe3NYdhKG41NgwNPCugH2eONgjlRYeN5JExeHV_cQ0e51cUDzB4hO3Eb2AwxGYN-jD1NuOGjmDO6F43XGobopejuMiRh2VdVss9KDFZuaCswoH0GKs/s1600/auc+s+ls+02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDr0s9TrBPnH7jvaFNSENxT3A7JOe3NYdhKG41NgwNPCugH2eONgjlRYeN5JExeHV_cQ0e51cUDzB4hO3Eb2AwxGYN-jD1NuOGjmDO6F43XGobopejuMiRh2VdVss9KDFZuaCswoH0GKs/s640/auc+s+ls+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I kept an open eye for all sorts of critters during my time in Sydney. Needless to say, in such a city of parks, suburban expanse and tropical climate, one was never far away from new discoveries.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-DEnkUsAr3DdUZyFZo3od7R1RqK13iVhePu1-DcfuR4GfOiBSVGXcHfj0XS-63cC5Ku3ilANDQNgM79FSyLOekEbNDzQjscEbb5ExxmDmqAbL-ynfU5IOYmrJoaNdz6M-fti2w2Qx_k/s1600/auc+s+axp+54.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-DEnkUsAr3DdUZyFZo3od7R1RqK13iVhePu1-DcfuR4GfOiBSVGXcHfj0XS-63cC5Ku3ilANDQNgM79FSyLOekEbNDzQjscEbb5ExxmDmqAbL-ynfU5IOYmrJoaNdz6M-fti2w2Qx_k/s640/auc+s+axp+54.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I took this rather bad photograph of an <b>eastern water skink</b>, <i>Eulamprus quoyii</i>, near a leaking water pipe by the <a href="http://bonditocoogeewalk.com.au/tamarama-beach-information/" target="_blank">walkway around Tamarama Beach</a>. It was enjoying itself in the moist growth that had proliferated around the pipe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr8vp_8BY_snFVKBR2msajGRB3iHmA17dq8VdlKncEaKvrx3a-XgQyhUbnv7ZfibCNrriUpn-JVwEXsZKaBTbriwAY5z35NZFUask9-z_mb7IiY_ffyvOkXAsb4y-4MGciCdoVBxNk_do/s1600/auc+s+axp+28.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr8vp_8BY_snFVKBR2msajGRB3iHmA17dq8VdlKncEaKvrx3a-XgQyhUbnv7ZfibCNrriUpn-JVwEXsZKaBTbriwAY5z35NZFUask9-z_mb7IiY_ffyvOkXAsb4y-4MGciCdoVBxNk_do/s640/auc+s+axp+28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another big lizard, some sort of dragon, possibly <i>Diporiphora australis, </i>the <b>eastern two-lined dragon</b>, from the parklands near the La Perouse Cemetery. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-RizLJdNsC0T2v-GOCXxn-ErVx6FUxwHwWvECh5R52bua4yGcWNaU3Eqjqxd8UvttgCBu_KVYogqmp5LVRHLMtbavbvkB2XLS9f5mLTHEWbUXR-tVuAnn-MNyxzihVUZxroejxsBjLI/s1600/auc+s+axp+52.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-RizLJdNsC0T2v-GOCXxn-ErVx6FUxwHwWvECh5R52bua4yGcWNaU3Eqjqxd8UvttgCBu_KVYogqmp5LVRHLMtbavbvkB2XLS9f5mLTHEWbUXR-tVuAnn-MNyxzihVUZxroejxsBjLI/s640/auc+s+axp+52.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Hey buddy... buddy... let me in buddy..."</i> Invertebrates were common all over the city, at all times. This is another, smaller <b>brown huntsman spider</b>, <i>Heteropoda cervina, </i>from the doorstep of the home I stayed in. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbfWbK-_KyJEXFXpkCdg7oUFbkI3G4GPaAtFQRkLIRmhaUEyZjU-KAugu6Ba8liekWDPBmJZYHf_LsrgHLWT_Npxdjs0HWycNo4etcQ7qHpk29RTFuxsDJcI4YcqNxfAY6mx_ljxymWc/s1600/auc+s+axp+45.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbfWbK-_KyJEXFXpkCdg7oUFbkI3G4GPaAtFQRkLIRmhaUEyZjU-KAugu6Ba8liekWDPBmJZYHf_LsrgHLWT_Npxdjs0HWycNo4etcQ7qHpk29RTFuxsDJcI4YcqNxfAY6mx_ljxymWc/s640/auc+s+axp+45.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I saw these brown moths, <i>Leptocneria reducta,</i><b> </b>with orange-black eyespots all over the town.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuQ0USf5lfQrzqLNNikkiw7VGiQvDJmun6WRP_sHUPF-RKSMfB0iHOETgiY746NA4tr1eC-vgMTWw9nkJLlJhoOqzdkr75lEvuk77cqhscVYFWfCyaf2eSR1bZQiGzm6xrol5pNlkJYk/s1600/auc+s+axp+36.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuQ0USf5lfQrzqLNNikkiw7VGiQvDJmun6WRP_sHUPF-RKSMfB0iHOETgiY746NA4tr1eC-vgMTWw9nkJLlJhoOqzdkr75lEvuk77cqhscVYFWfCyaf2eSR1bZQiGzm6xrol5pNlkJYk/s640/auc+s+axp+36.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This moth was particularly touching, me and a friend saw it trying to tend to its eggs on a wall in the busiest part of the town.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1qmszlF-5nPFKrRsMlhDKfg6dSup6LUMury4mufeTNrpenqAxfOR_tqvzuFg7OQh24-HE30DAa0x76z4nc0O_wKmFEH8L30j1x-dWA9PScT5BrdcnQgvJdevDA3dB68LG2U_eXzvB2Y/s1600/auc+s+axp+40.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1qmszlF-5nPFKrRsMlhDKfg6dSup6LUMury4mufeTNrpenqAxfOR_tqvzuFg7OQh24-HE30DAa0x76z4nc0O_wKmFEH8L30j1x-dWA9PScT5BrdcnQgvJdevDA3dB68LG2U_eXzvB2Y/s640/auc+s+axp+40.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This spider, the <b>ogre-faced, web-throwing</b> <i>Deinopis subrufa</i>, had long been one of my favourites. Thinking them denizens of inaccessible jungles and caves, I had never expected to encounter one. It was a pleasant surprise then, to see one by the corner of a window in my friend <a href="http://nuranzorlu.com/" target="_blank">Nuran Zorlu'</a>s studio in downtown Sydney.</div>
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Check out the stringy, white web mass the spider is preparing between its forelegs. <i>Deinopis </i>spiders throw these webs onto passing prey to capture them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjOqLhyeD2A2BbsSF1YObM8zMj72jZtNQgCoxPEF2DToE5Xkwxe1QaAOzOIqeWkmp8PCEMzzxFE-mgBZh1q1rkAgkSVWa5E-BjhXW7Y_aJ05-o7IRdBpFrZXf1IHEpazvFG6gcVOA3ik/s1600/auc+s+axp+38.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjOqLhyeD2A2BbsSF1YObM8zMj72jZtNQgCoxPEF2DToE5Xkwxe1QaAOzOIqeWkmp8PCEMzzxFE-mgBZh1q1rkAgkSVWa5E-BjhXW7Y_aJ05-o7IRdBpFrZXf1IHEpazvFG6gcVOA3ik/s640/auc+s+axp+38.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I spotted this incredibly beautiful spider (<i>Tetragnathidae sp.</i>) on a fence while biking around Centennial Park. Its long legs looked as if they were crafted out of red-and-white glass.</div>
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Identifying these animals down to the species level is notoriously difficult, but <a href="http://www.arachne.org.au/default.asp" target="_blank">here</a> is a wonderful resource for Australian spiders nevertheless. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ueVEcutDHO70TIsYtv8hvFp8pRctigJ4OecwDJK-kPWS6eiwNYKyZP01QLAFieITzv-plrTCfLiLsyLa66FNhFsN-1B9TSqnrJCyCtRaFfmNFyYFEa-CW1p1XH6e83qW-ZnfQT9bEAM/s1600/auc+s+axp+37.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ueVEcutDHO70TIsYtv8hvFp8pRctigJ4OecwDJK-kPWS6eiwNYKyZP01QLAFieITzv-plrTCfLiLsyLa66FNhFsN-1B9TSqnrJCyCtRaFfmNFyYFEa-CW1p1XH6e83qW-ZnfQT9bEAM/s640/auc+s+axp+37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had a policy of not including any pets in this post, but I had to make an exception for this tiny, <b>scruffy-looking dog</b>, straight out a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ren_%26_Stimpy_Show" target="_blank">John Kricfalusi</a> cartoon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8log1_yRXV5-WtGJHFgbT8f0H7Yy_EvUG5XyaqLwvUpInOg692p9kmLV6HCELzyjJnTFKISceWU0ZUZeNpMzOAJ9XFYnCLdbTvs8BsgK8i6EQLy4D0XeselH-EpRskiDAdNmQoBRJyH8/s1600/auc+s+ls+05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8log1_yRXV5-WtGJHFgbT8f0H7Yy_EvUG5XyaqLwvUpInOg692p9kmLV6HCELzyjJnTFKISceWU0ZUZeNpMzOAJ9XFYnCLdbTvs8BsgK8i6EQLy4D0XeselH-EpRskiDAdNmQoBRJyH8/s640/auc+s+ls+05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I spent nearly three weeks in Sydney. Here is a glimpse of a street corner from a suburban area of the city. I saw many of the animals here on perfectly ordinary spots such as this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivheHfmfNbAAJjbBL1U417qulHCo4KW7MQ0xsublcxpeAkIvrDNJBpibHHohz5IKmpU7pCCENhLB7v9e4tnaqwetz1ZZI0YF5Ca48HYJjesnk-VjPQLjoKeegfI7C20U_NRwLAtYOY7fc/s1600/auc+s+axp+24.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivheHfmfNbAAJjbBL1U417qulHCo4KW7MQ0xsublcxpeAkIvrDNJBpibHHohz5IKmpU7pCCENhLB7v9e4tnaqwetz1ZZI0YF5Ca48HYJjesnk-VjPQLjoKeegfI7C20U_NRwLAtYOY7fc/s640/auc+s+axp+24.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The skull of an unfortunate bird, the victim of an unfortunate predator.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjKMxuhXnqjp_f_yZ10MwiuNi66DPfxgjNgfhmU2KauK4xF43JhizeSnencscS10M_iDCPb5dq_JjqU7VlE48mPdFKN2UmbUjZeGTZL4PH7PbXCUTlCq4nvk5fsXjja879-zl0xnCv3I/s1600/auc+s+axp+22.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjKMxuhXnqjp_f_yZ10MwiuNi66DPfxgjNgfhmU2KauK4xF43JhizeSnencscS10M_iDCPb5dq_JjqU7VlE48mPdFKN2UmbUjZeGTZL4PH7PbXCUTlCq4nvk5fsXjja879-zl0xnCv3I/s640/auc+s+axp+22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another predator's victim, the skull of a rodent, possibly the universal pest, <i>Mus musculus</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mKb57Z4W3MALYapdjwxEhPNZmTg6KixWHGCFm3v01aAUnD8he8pyyX4iuihCyt4HL4naCvfCGttL7zYHwFvkD7fpaXfaiBNkdpWLho4XOzIuL6rzYoipIFdI_M7SuV36v4q60jYilew/s1600/auc+s+axp+53.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mKb57Z4W3MALYapdjwxEhPNZmTg6KixWHGCFm3v01aAUnD8he8pyyX4iuihCyt4HL4naCvfCGttL7zYHwFvkD7fpaXfaiBNkdpWLho4XOzIuL6rzYoipIFdI_M7SuV36v4q60jYilew/s640/auc+s+axp+53.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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No visit to Sydney was complete without trips to the city's iconic beaches. I chanced upon this <b>little pied cormorant</b>, <i>Microcarbo melanoleucos</i>, sunning itself on concrete harbour blocks near Congwong Beach. Did you know that cormorants had no nostrils? Weird.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7OSAF09sLmSG5MvaMBL-IdKAgqcLZ1mqOs65TAJ9JA8zo2zIGEDMIh_fn35O5PYDn5kY0QpF9rWRl-POyRb6vZzbV_fH8UGlLWlx7Sp0-V8SJHZeFjCImUWSTSQ-ZPOODRI2w81Egbo/s1600/auc+s+axp+46.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7OSAF09sLmSG5MvaMBL-IdKAgqcLZ1mqOs65TAJ9JA8zo2zIGEDMIh_fn35O5PYDn5kY0QpF9rWRl-POyRb6vZzbV_fH8UGlLWlx7Sp0-V8SJHZeFjCImUWSTSQ-ZPOODRI2w81Egbo/s640/auc+s+axp+46.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A gang of <b>silver gulls</b>, <i>Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae</i>, on the famous Bondi Beach. While beautiful, I found Bondi to be the most crowded and over-rated beach in Sydney.</div>
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The sands on Bondi were littered with "stingers" of all sorts. Jellyfish stings were a big deal in Australia, and people occasionally wore ungainly plastic wetsuits to avoid exposure to their tentacles.</div>
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This was a <b>blue button jelly</b>, <i>Propita porpita. </i>Although irritating, the sting of this coin-sized creature was not considered to be a major hazard. Another interesting thing about these jellies that each creature is a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrozoa" target="_blank">colony</a>, made up of smaller animalcules that have come together in an organised entity.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDmTYGFyI_RYbXyHW-KIMcp9YrzEsAE25HQzDByO8apRkqEt1WOQktAhrWdy8IwfJBEACjkDJ2LnJy-JzRHqZcX7cOJ_Bz-BEr0f_9VR3wi5a1A8MAGkBmbDYMgrtxAESQE5h4CMNBcwo/s1600/auc+s+axp+47.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDmTYGFyI_RYbXyHW-KIMcp9YrzEsAE25HQzDByO8apRkqEt1WOQktAhrWdy8IwfJBEACjkDJ2LnJy-JzRHqZcX7cOJ_Bz-BEr0f_9VR3wi5a1A8MAGkBmbDYMgrtxAESQE5h4CMNBcwo/s640/auc+s+axp+47.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another colonial drifter, the dreaded <b>Portugese man o' war</b>, <i>Physalia physalis</i>. These things were dangerous - their tentacles caused severe rashes and an awful pain if touched. They were strewn all around the beach like used condoms.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwsme4veWOZtOkerrP0iFxCZX54SC2_-iKeaxRJmJt_dcis_23BKk4sM8ZfaxJvfq2n1NAEIiuT3s65FxeYP1Z2SyzrLr_87n_u1Ns2y6foxRNYzzPXi72lXvGzhhVv6Tvj2NInva1aCY/s1600/auc+s+axp+51.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwsme4veWOZtOkerrP0iFxCZX54SC2_-iKeaxRJmJt_dcis_23BKk4sM8ZfaxJvfq2n1NAEIiuT3s65FxeYP1Z2SyzrLr_87n_u1Ns2y6foxRNYzzPXi72lXvGzhhVv6Tvj2NInva1aCY/s640/auc+s+axp+51.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A <b>rose barnacle</b>, <i>Tesseropora rosea</i>, and <b>radiated limpets</b>, <i>Patella sp</i>. on the beachside rocks.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v6cMdjForvNWBz3GLlHJLBjdbLtUm1eFEO6QTKoGa0IFBYN0ic9IC7utX_Hai54ipeHN4nFtOzAVY8MDknUMIgYt2Ay_18UvtBMR-_gTqgydrs3sM_O5xQVq24fiZ5CTtVetZbO2jek/s1600/auc+s+axp+50.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v6cMdjForvNWBz3GLlHJLBjdbLtUm1eFEO6QTKoGa0IFBYN0ic9IC7utX_Hai54ipeHN4nFtOzAVY8MDknUMIgYt2Ay_18UvtBMR-_gTqgydrs3sM_O5xQVq24fiZ5CTtVetZbO2jek/s640/auc+s+axp+50.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Masses of <b>sea-squirts</b>, <i>Pyura praeputialis, </i>covered many seaside rocks. Although unsightly, these creatures were quite fun to play with. Each semi-polygonal "cell" here was a separate animal. Tickling them caused the animalcules to eject thin streams of water, like tiny mouths. The locals knew them as "cunjevoi".</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOjgCKtKJRuWmK-irMDmeRqb7wKnRPYXFSQTOV_FpKiXzSbxRlKBKNBZj12_ciDLOHKYOlKLqOGJalJHbevhvo2TkTsOjcSlnt4rIABehCzlbFhgHbawjHZjiCJa_mfjzA5h9lhE8losw/s1600/auc+q+ls+03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOjgCKtKJRuWmK-irMDmeRqb7wKnRPYXFSQTOV_FpKiXzSbxRlKBKNBZj12_ciDLOHKYOlKLqOGJalJHbevhvo2TkTsOjcSlnt4rIABehCzlbFhgHbawjHZjiCJa_mfjzA5h9lhE8losw/s640/auc+q+ls+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My wife joined me for the final 1.5 weeks of our trip, and we went on a vacation-within-a-vacation to Queensland. Complete tourists, we rented a car and toured around the towns of <b>Proserpine, Airlie and Cape Gloucester.</b> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3ZKg9ADI2G74Qw-1n0UeGEBQsRhKdIIp-ZFp2yW4Fo0hxqWo7mxhyphenhyphenSXO4eWDKFKx7mM0ot8Ju5e6h5J9uuXxJuDhp4WC0nORxzohhqOim6HWxWxChpPXTvdLSCC4ZTAexoCQY0Is_4M/s1600/auc+q+ls+02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3ZKg9ADI2G74Qw-1n0UeGEBQsRhKdIIp-ZFp2yW4Fo0hxqWo7mxhyphenhyphenSXO4eWDKFKx7mM0ot8Ju5e6h5J9uuXxJuDhp4WC0nORxzohhqOim6HWxWxChpPXTvdLSCC4ZTAexoCQY0Is_4M/s640/auc+q+ls+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This was one of the most touristically-saturated regions of Australia, but to us outsiders it seemed like some sort of wild, untamed paradise. It also helped that we had arrived during the onset of <a href="http://www.tourismwhitsundays.com.au/visitor-information/stinger-information/" target="_blank">stinger season</a>, the high-point of stinging jellyfish populations in the water. No one was around, and the spectacular beaches looked quite surreal without a single swimming person in sight.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgYaCu_S_ffJrDFpDyiBhx9AI00qGFKVGM24V-fjhyphenhyphenF9K4JSgfJF8HTWIjsi2QX8xmIu5gfPiJBX5lyk2NhEl0o4u9im6A9R__EGd2uo_f7NBF9U1XOag-8ueKX1GzH03GwNfMd30Ob4/s1600/auc+q+a+32.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgYaCu_S_ffJrDFpDyiBhx9AI00qGFKVGM24V-fjhyphenhyphenF9K4JSgfJF8HTWIjsi2QX8xmIu5gfPiJBX5lyk2NhEl0o4u9im6A9R__EGd2uo_f7NBF9U1XOag-8ueKX1GzH03GwNfMd30Ob4/s640/auc+q+a+32.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I saw this pied oystercatcher, <i>Haematopus longirostris</i>, looking for prey on low tide on an empty beach near <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dingo+Beach+QLD+4800,+Australia/@-20.0885898,148.4937229,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x6bd82ef0cedaae4b:0x0400eef17f208480" target="_blank">Dingo Bay</a>.</div>
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The low tide uncovered other things as well. A particular beach was full of these foot-long <b>giant black sea cucumbers</b>, <i>Holothuria leucospilota.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFKkYnCNATDhipCxlE5PGqgUPmPLhBahigXi615LXORK-KKisLnrEChuaevpPRQi5iwMdyS_v2ddU27Ki-OC4W9Jr-JMq1O402HAgzS7vN1ttUm69m4QJgix78XAvgTA_q-CWNPOixEY4/s1600/auc+q+a+30.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFKkYnCNATDhipCxlE5PGqgUPmPLhBahigXi615LXORK-KKisLnrEChuaevpPRQi5iwMdyS_v2ddU27Ki-OC4W9Jr-JMq1O402HAgzS7vN1ttUm69m4QJgix78XAvgTA_q-CWNPOixEY4/s640/auc+q+a+30.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I immediately grabbed and examined some of them.</div>
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The sea cucumbers' phallic appearance was further augmented by their ejection of sticky, white "strings", actually modified gut segments, for defence.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCx6v-_dftthU6F-A90Ji2auujJ_rFi4rq9ajaeRzaJD8cxbkpDkKF_7FUWegG3b-5W0GndM_sBjonN3qN8hEMx3dv5vfqjGKsNq21MW5QkMuQiI78rHIvEuS67alr7CgKis9iVtyYibw/s1600/auc+q+ls+04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCx6v-_dftthU6F-A90Ji2auujJ_rFi4rq9ajaeRzaJD8cxbkpDkKF_7FUWegG3b-5W0GndM_sBjonN3qN8hEMx3dv5vfqjGKsNq21MW5QkMuQiI78rHIvEuS67alr7CgKis9iVtyYibw/s640/auc+q+ls+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I ventured into some of the dense secondary forests near the sea in search of animals, but it was hard to see anything during the intense heat of the noon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExaPl7ZZJKBgWIzVkalrWL1TC95NdrgN97KTR_324dyAxeci1kd4skuIVH_HPFohq02IAReFFRMLJttv8xJm0cRbAxfxy7WvryA6p9Ih5F9f6GcAfzmYbcqpNwmkf65fv10RIcRjM-Gs/s1600/auc+q+a+25.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExaPl7ZZJKBgWIzVkalrWL1TC95NdrgN97KTR_324dyAxeci1kd4skuIVH_HPFohq02IAReFFRMLJttv8xJm0cRbAxfxy7WvryA6p9Ih5F9f6GcAfzmYbcqpNwmkf65fv10RIcRjM-Gs/s640/auc+q+a+25.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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One of the few things I could find was this big rhino beetle, <i>Xylotrupes ulysses</i>.</div>
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This insect was massive, by far the heaviest beetle I saw. I felt like a big-shot explorer to have found a gigantic, exotic insect, but in fact this was one of the most common beetles in Queensland.</div>
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I dug around on the forest floor, hoping to uncover more insects or reptiles. All I found were these grumpy-looking, invasive <b>marine toads</b>, <i>Rhinella marina</i> (<i>Bufo marinus</i>).</div>
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cane_toads_in_Australia" target="_blank">These frogs are serious pests in Australia</a>, and they endanger countless local insects, reptiles and amphibians. One of my friends later argued that for the sake of local wildlife I should have killed these toads wherever I saw them, but I disagreed. The toad infestation was acutely beyond control at this point and people wouldn't make a dent on toad populations even if they spent every waking hour hunting them. The damage has been done already. Why kill more innocent animals just to settle the score of an unachievable balance?</div>
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Near Cape Gloucester, I encountered a <b>zoological mystery</b> in the sand. I noticed a tiny spiralling structure right beside some sand dunes. It seemed to be built by some small animal, possibly some sort of wasp, but... what? Certain sand wasps built pit-like structures in beach dunes, but I had never seen something like this. It reminded me of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junji_Ito" target="_blank">Junji Ito's</a> famous manga, <a href="http://kissmanga.com/Manga/Uzumaki/Uzumaki-Chapter-1?id=56778" target="_blank">Uzumaki - Spiral Into Horror</a>.</div>
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Can any of my readers help? As of now, I am e-mailing Australian entomologists to solve this mystery. I was certain it was not a sandal print.</div>
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<b>UPDATE:</b> I also posted this sand spiral on various entomology groups on Facebook <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/arachnology/1024965024237180/?notif_t=like&notif_id=1459439718310222" target="_blank">[1]</a></b> <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheEntomologyGroup/10153715839888393/?notif_t=like&notif_id=1459438343812603" target="_blank">[2]</a></b> and Reddit. <b><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/whatsthisbug/comments/4cqlc7/strange_spiral_structures_on_a_queensland_beach/" target="_blank">[1]</a></b> <b><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Entomology/comments/4cqjdw/strange_spiral_structures_on_a_queensland_beach/" target="_blank">[2]</a></b> Looks like this mystery has been solved. The most likely answers are:</div>
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▲ The bottom of a trekking cane: There are some models with <a href="http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/w225/m/mpVd5MX3aJAy413qt1MtzMQ.jpg" target="_blank">rubber, circular bottoms</a>.</div>
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▲ The initial stage of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lYAWwMOCXE" target="_blank">an antlion nest</a>.</div>
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▲ A pattern etched onto the sand by the action of the wind as it blows debris and/or nearby branches in circles. Too bad, I'd have hoped it to be some sort of undiscovered sand critter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5i-VEij_m_Q5DAIP4qpyclyS8xAaX0o2Uxtt20tsaCnTazlVUCyMJccQ67bC4l7KlkGObcik8g7SrhqpDQ586tS05mld6-PIA44gv9cVWmkuJTfHDeVyshMeAHY2aEOLx4ir_5L9TRY/s1600/auc+q+ls+05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5i-VEij_m_Q5DAIP4qpyclyS8xAaX0o2Uxtt20tsaCnTazlVUCyMJccQ67bC4l7KlkGObcik8g7SrhqpDQ586tS05mld6-PIA44gv9cVWmkuJTfHDeVyshMeAHY2aEOLx4ir_5L9TRY/s640/auc+q+ls+05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Driving through forests and farmland in search of new, interesting locations was a joy. The Australian roadside was full of quirky little surprises, such as this "steampunk" mailbox by the entrance of a sugar-cane plantation.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0bL2LEHbCJZFtRc2qvhcUxnE2Xs8hQviEFfGh1rpT6b3Xfwj_vebqJ-xRQe7PZ9eLZ6YsiLfMuUGAkAtIeVM2dePpezdUr4C7ktH2lXujjfvfH0FDUDtYRUzp3CdoZMGi_8gRJyWRVoI/s1600/auc+q+ls+01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0bL2LEHbCJZFtRc2qvhcUxnE2Xs8hQviEFfGh1rpT6b3Xfwj_vebqJ-xRQe7PZ9eLZ6YsiLfMuUGAkAtIeVM2dePpezdUr4C7ktH2lXujjfvfH0FDUDtYRUzp3CdoZMGi_8gRJyWRVoI/s640/auc+q+ls+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another interesting detail was this sloping road, aptly named "<i>O My God Hill</i>," on the seaside trail. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/boobook48/3841745833" target="_blank">Other tourists</a> had noticed this local curiosity too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfUC05VA0o-XQnD3u7MgRjaWM0a0AUqqPmhDTuwAdM2GWh0Pn0dt6WayvvxJkZVR0XvIxwRu5JXm_DccdIZwVlJ2wbBE-lS-5OEtLBMTua7taNhKq3kLjvjbZywhTqnAka4wzesF921U/s1600/auc+q+a+23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfUC05VA0o-XQnD3u7MgRjaWM0a0AUqqPmhDTuwAdM2GWh0Pn0dt6WayvvxJkZVR0XvIxwRu5JXm_DccdIZwVlJ2wbBE-lS-5OEtLBMTua7taNhKq3kLjvjbZywhTqnAka4wzesF921U/s640/auc+q+a+23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Back to critters. I spotted this <b>giant longhorn beetle</b>, <i>Cerambycidae sp</i>. on the wall of our hotel in Airlie.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPerYJQwgQ7kqdg7q-lnOVjjze3Z7lsFCUFgU0npWz7fgiKWBEe3PJr0OXEYk1xeNTuTN5INKs0B19qLL0zzKR0qvToR0tukvrzm37rVNKcZQAwK-YuwALCGDXJGN7IKL1ZWI1H99Q-s/s1600/auc+q+a+11.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPerYJQwgQ7kqdg7q-lnOVjjze3Z7lsFCUFgU0npWz7fgiKWBEe3PJr0OXEYk1xeNTuTN5INKs0B19qLL0zzKR0qvToR0tukvrzm37rVNKcZQAwK-YuwALCGDXJGN7IKL1ZWI1H99Q-s/s640/auc+q+a+11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The nymph of a <b>hedge grasshopper</b>, <i>Valanga irregularis</i>, also from our hotel wall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDTmR4xytZ92K1YtVQbfDxhntjmvnZIlX9BBjzRr5727I0CpuBSxQxSyv8jLZuvhscYMfmreWtr7Qjw-4XLLHokVi6sBB9iSnu7ZFb4j15_YJTcXduUyCCngM6doYxNjCXQV2NlikP-w/s1600/auc+q+a+21.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDTmR4xytZ92K1YtVQbfDxhntjmvnZIlX9BBjzRr5727I0CpuBSxQxSyv8jLZuvhscYMfmreWtr7Qjw-4XLLHokVi6sBB9iSnu7ZFb4j15_YJTcXduUyCCngM6doYxNjCXQV2NlikP-w/s640/auc+q+a+21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I saw this beautiful <b>assassin bug</b>, possibly the "bee killer" <i>Pristhesancus plagipennis</i>, on the branches of an araucaria tree. These bugs fed by impaling their prey on nasty, knife-like mouth-parts, which they could use to "sting" people too. If you see them, you shouldn't touch these guys.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4nDyMytLKNCoVgEsn2j4S9BSDus9Kv3gbjDl27kXqbaIKcAHBN7AaUCiMsHXSPXRByjE-m9caN4xA_jNnBi5bU3lc8-3YQ-j4R_xDjBNqmopoSfIw2FQ8he0SJ8Ar36Ht2Dw24A9PceU/s1600/auc+q+a+12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4nDyMytLKNCoVgEsn2j4S9BSDus9Kv3gbjDl27kXqbaIKcAHBN7AaUCiMsHXSPXRByjE-m9caN4xA_jNnBi5bU3lc8-3YQ-j4R_xDjBNqmopoSfIw2FQ8he0SJ8Ar36Ht2Dw24A9PceU/s640/auc+q+a+12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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While we were reclining under a tree, this <b>sulphur-crested cockatoo</b>, <i>Cacatua galerita </i>went out of his way, and aligned himself carefully to poop on us. These animals were extremely smart, and like all the smartest animals, used their intelligence mostly for mischief.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtEjL3D_cBTN0yrCW95_2Cs2X26H83kld9xJCQLdBKbMpS_OYGtS1Am4x9Tb7f3y2Rm89MSKCutKH6v5X_33KZUoqnNFuOFLV3dEjDHmlOeuHF4EeJhgZVzgX9Pas2JfYaDus_FjUmG4g/s1600/auc+q+a+03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtEjL3D_cBTN0yrCW95_2Cs2X26H83kld9xJCQLdBKbMpS_OYGtS1Am4x9Tb7f3y2Rm89MSKCutKH6v5X_33KZUoqnNFuOFLV3dEjDHmlOeuHF4EeJhgZVzgX9Pas2JfYaDus_FjUmG4g/s640/auc+q+a+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Near Cape Gloucester I had a chance to see one of my all-time favourite spiders, the <b>giant green jumper</b>, <i>Mopsus mormon</i>. I was a fan of this species ever since seeing a feature about it in a 1993 issue of National Geographic. I spent nearly half an hour trying to get good pictures of this finicky critter, but it absolutely refused to face the camera. Perhaps it was afraid of its own reflection on the lens. Check out those two posterior eyes, scanning the animal's back like a second face.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bBLm54gw5BpP01jEgr32VORw5zcKtgqgrADe7x7CJ2a18kf-hIzLwWpnuKWYv27LpSAB377Ob4mQsmo2OkGs0R2ztTJhPqnbxHDfYdVhFzK7UTE9K1xPhP1DULYkryp_Xbiso4WmD9Q/s1600/auc+q+a+02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bBLm54gw5BpP01jEgr32VORw5zcKtgqgrADe7x7CJ2a18kf-hIzLwWpnuKWYv27LpSAB377Ob4mQsmo2OkGs0R2ztTJhPqnbxHDfYdVhFzK7UTE9K1xPhP1DULYkryp_Xbiso4WmD9Q/s640/auc+q+a+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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At last, I managed to get a nice shot of its face. Look at the cute, gorilla-like mug... Its dark face told that this spider was a male; females had faintly-coloured faces with white stripes.</div>
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Co-incidentally, the genus name of this spider, <i>Mopsus</i>, was also the name of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mopsus" target="_blank">mythical prophet</a> and city-founder from Anatolia. It was a nice coincidence to come from the land where the historic Mopsus lived, and meet the bizarre spider named after him thousands of years later. The scientist who gave this name to this spider, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferdinand_Karsch" target="_blank">Ferdinand Karsch</a>, was an erudite scholar who also studied <a href="http://outhistory.org/exhibits/show/native-americans-gay-americans/1900s/karsch-haack" target="_blank">sexuality</a> and ancient cultures, and was one of the first openly gay academicians in early 20th-century Berlin.</div>
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With omnivorous appetites, turn-of-the-century scientists like Karsch were a unique breed that could make new discoveries in wildly-disparate arenas of knowledge. I don't think many zoologists alive today are knowledgeable enough to include such historic references in the names of the species they describe.</div>
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Details like this are why I love comprehensive studies of nature, history, people and places. A simple arachnid, just by its name, can take one on massive journeys across time and space. Such cross-links of knowledge add meaning and an incomparable feeling of wholesomeness to my life.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE-XYXhQPLcPGVJ7iHasD4rEzKvruh6qefrzwSG7zzpY74jQR63OnlSfuEDPpbgKu1VOY6OGhpnd93xPASj4TsCG2rz1dsyc829Hi3PyQau4kOgEsCYCiOrpR2X-X1DwYz_mVH-YKp6O8/s1600/auc+q+a+10.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE-XYXhQPLcPGVJ7iHasD4rEzKvruh6qefrzwSG7zzpY74jQR63OnlSfuEDPpbgKu1VOY6OGhpnd93xPASj4TsCG2rz1dsyc829Hi3PyQau4kOgEsCYCiOrpR2X-X1DwYz_mVH-YKp6O8/s640/auc+q+a+10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The best time for critter-hunting in Queensland was the night. The tropical heat was relentless after sunset, and any light in the sweat-stained darkness attracted many large insects. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIvs-5SDR2XREkXHB1ZeYdW8KWT-TgLNT1Sz43Anr45Eq8tC8uDI1aPsgrV5CzJ-0Zd_43z7xqdtWFQ-oBxhztEt6dGcYWzocGrbPNYZAh1q7Abpz93WQuLjxXRuDfION8K88c8ITvD1A/s1600/auc+q+a+08.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIvs-5SDR2XREkXHB1ZeYdW8KWT-TgLNT1Sz43Anr45Eq8tC8uDI1aPsgrV5CzJ-0Zd_43z7xqdtWFQ-oBxhztEt6dGcYWzocGrbPNYZAh1q7Abpz93WQuLjxXRuDfION8K88c8ITvD1A/s640/auc+q+a+08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This giant <b>privet hawk moth</b>, <i>Psilogramma nebulosa (menephron), </i>was one of my first finds. Its ominous, triangular shape reminded me of one of the fabled <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avro_Vulcan" target="_blank">British Avro Vulcan Bomber</a>. I was very stupid to pose with this cute moth on my face, the dust-like scales in its wings caused a mild irritation in my left eye for a couple of days afterwards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJaA4rGdxQ3yUEXARQJPvPYqNL1DBqfEtIjArTEMI9f2rsV45ZLJwq3sWs33Lz8Ej4AayCDMjZ1_4mAIOhepTo0uOG3Hb8BkADXkB_OG3Np06mRX3FlEYUnH-huOCzKZ6osn7Jt6VcIc/s1600/auc+q+a+07.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJaA4rGdxQ3yUEXARQJPvPYqNL1DBqfEtIjArTEMI9f2rsV45ZLJwq3sWs33Lz8Ej4AayCDMjZ1_4mAIOhepTo0uOG3Hb8BkADXkB_OG3Np06mRX3FlEYUnH-huOCzKZ6osn7Jt6VcIc/s640/auc+q+a+07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As the humid night wore on, I came across this rather dark-eyed beauty; an enormous mantis, <i>Paramantis </i>sp. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElnO3-V82HjbsiCnV041jBfJBTFDGdwdegBCJAbiqVGC-zdXRVoMWp-0gTuB40GOihfN5UJV_YpIFQ6oFavWLtlRmgHjgDry2CwNpw53cwCbTR-vEWvqRvPG_F89Ug1jYmKkHdqOsBUU/s1600/auc+q+a+06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElnO3-V82HjbsiCnV041jBfJBTFDGdwdegBCJAbiqVGC-zdXRVoMWp-0gTuB40GOihfN5UJV_YpIFQ6oFavWLtlRmgHjgDry2CwNpw53cwCbTR-vEWvqRvPG_F89Ug1jYmKkHdqOsBUU/s640/auc+q+a+06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Immediately after, I found another large insect, this leaf-like <b>bush katydid</b>, <i>Caedicia sp, </i>possibly <i>Caedicia simplex</i>. I resisted a dark urge to feed the katydid to the mantis.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXsYcjjeb4atkpSwoaHTHPillMTKC9M6mBikGouXFPZT2rUdZnp3CSRmh4tXUh1Rhbb99WV83vsLVjyph0mgcbdReSztgJffqI44ptO71XbGnWRJksS0ruYIupj4WbhuYwLvetBvYW04/s1600/auc+q+a+16.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXsYcjjeb4atkpSwoaHTHPillMTKC9M6mBikGouXFPZT2rUdZnp3CSRmh4tXUh1Rhbb99WV83vsLVjyph0mgcbdReSztgJffqI44ptO71XbGnWRJksS0ruYIupj4WbhuYwLvetBvYW04/s640/auc+q+a+16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Boom - this spectacular <b>two-spot tiger moth</b>, <i>Asota plagiata</i>, landed on our table just like that. We were finding all of these wonderful insects on the back porch of a seaside <a href="http://capeg.com.au/" target="_blank">restaurant</a>. Who knew what the depths of the jungle held?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFgscx0BGuk6BjHkNgCxJFAHxG8NBVN9DfiMVebbnj3wrg_GMq3f8Gy0NulQzvNS5UhapdN8RpLmijFu2uCf4nDyVc4QRg-FVWGIwGn5w7ki3L7DtpjyhobaTAauNrtQr6Gj9GuUGM89g/s1600/auc+q+a+20.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFgscx0BGuk6BjHkNgCxJFAHxG8NBVN9DfiMVebbnj3wrg_GMq3f8Gy0NulQzvNS5UhapdN8RpLmijFu2uCf4nDyVc4QRg-FVWGIwGn5w7ki3L7DtpjyhobaTAauNrtQr6Gj9GuUGM89g/s640/auc+q+a+20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I also saw this phantom beauty, <i>Nagia linteola</i> with twin hourglass-shaped spots, black, star-speckled wings and outsized eyes. Identifying moth species was very difficult - I am indebted to <b>Eve Stafford and Buck Richardson's</b> amazing <a href="http://www.leapfrogoz.com.au/LeapFrogOz/Home.html" target="_blank">LeapFrogOz</a> / <a href="http://www.leapfrogoz.com.au/LeapFrogOz/Moth_Identification.html" target="_blank">Moth Identification Homepage</a> for identifying what lepidopterans I could for this article.</div>
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There were plenty of vertebrates around too. This chunky <b>green tree frog</b>, <i>Litoria caerulea</i>, a native of Australia, untangled itself from a nearby tree like a rubber monkey, and -<i>splat!- </i>fell on the ground as it leapt after a scuttling cockroach.</div>
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The <b>marine toads</b>, <i>Rhinella marina</i> (<i>Bufo marinus</i>), were awake after a long day's sleep and they were hungrily running after all the insects that were flying and crawling around. This particularly big specimen was the size of a small kitten. Like cats, too, they were cosying up to local diners for scraps from their tables. I tossed this toad a bit of crayfish from my dinner plate. It hopped up to it, and after a bit of philosophical contemplation, gobbled it up.</div>
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Another, less harmful introduced species we saw in Queensland was the <b>Pacific house gecko</b>, <i>Hemidactlyus frenatus</i>. These things were everywhere, and I mean <i>everywhere, </i>around human habitations after dark. On buildings, an area the size of a garage door usually held about 3-4 of them.</div>
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I'd almost thought the geckos too boring to photograph, when, on the ceiling of the mens' room, I beheld an epic struggle of sex and violence.</div>
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<b>Gecko A </b>(the one on the left), was happily mating with the female when <b>Gecko B</b> (the one currently seen copulating with her), came along, and brutally ripped out a piece of skin from his lower belly and then, the <b>four fingers of his right forelimb</b><i>.</i> (Ouch!) The final act caused Gecko A to relinquish the female, who went on to mate with Gecko B as if nothing had happened. Gecko A retaliated, futilely, by attacking Gecko B again and ripping chunks of skin from his tail and his back as B kept on mating with the female. The tragic finale came seconds after this photo was taken when Gecko A struck one final time, with such force that both Gecko B and the female fell to the ground and scuttled away. Gecko A alone was left on the ceiling light, bewildered, victorious but mateless.</div>
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My final herptile spot in Queensland was this aggressive, reddish-coloured snake. I couldn't determine its exact species, but it may have been a <b>keelback snake</b>, <i>Tropidonophis mairii; </i>a non-venomous snake that emulates other, dangerous snakes with an aggressive demeanour. With so many venomous snakes in Australia, however, I wasn't going to examine it closely to be certain.</div>
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Much has been made about Australia in popular culture as a "deadly place" with every snake, insect, spider, jellyfish, etc. loaded with poison to absolutely kill everybody and anybody. The truth is, it is not any more deadlier than many other corners of the globe - the continental US has dozens of rattlesnake species, for example. None of these animals want to be close to people, and one can go through an entire visit to Australia without seeing a single snake, etc. if they want to.</div>
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Funnily enough, the only animals that "attacked" me during this trip were these <b>green weaver ants</b>, <i>Oecophylla smardina. </i>I'd foolishly parked our car under the a tree, and by the time we'd arrived, they were crawling all over the hood. The ants stung me in my arms and legs as I tried to brush them off, leaving a very painful and itchy feeling.</div>
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I only saw a couple of "legacy" Australian animals in this trip. This scuttling <b>echidna</b>, <i>Tachyglossus aculeatus, </i>was one. I also saw a couple of wallabies, but I couldn't photograph them.</div>
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I was really moved by this trip, and I really want to visit Australia again. In terms of critters, I'm sure what I saw was the briefest, most ordinary glimpse of tremendous variety of life this continent had to offer. Even then it was a fascinating odyssey: full of spiders named after prophets, mystic sand spirals, sentient birds, violent reptilian threesomes, phallic fungi and ejaculating echinoderms, cicadas with a thousand names and more... I feel that a part of my heart will always remain in this strange place.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-10203729345096373762016-03-14T03:37:00.000-07:002018-03-21T04:07:37.320-07:00One Day Before the Bomb Attack in Ankara, March 2016<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I</span><span style="font-size: 14px;"> </span>was in Ankara 24 hours before <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/March_2016_Ankara_bombing" target="_blank">the awful bomb explosion on March 13</a>. </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I boarded a bus from the exact spot where the detonation occurred. While waiting, I took random snapshots of the street and people enjoying the beautiful spring weather.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b> </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 19px;">Turkey is going through a turbulent and unprecented period of violence. More than 160 people died in three major bombings in the Turkish capital in the last five months. I hope that this madness will cease as soon as possible.</span></div>
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 19px;"><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 19px;"> </span></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-11300886577611776252016-03-02T04:27:00.004-08:002018-06-16T14:22:04.202-07:00Fog in the Bosporus<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />On the 29th of February, 2016, Istanbul was enveloped by a dense fog that lasted most of the day. The Bosporus, normally crowded with boats, was closed to sea traffic and an otherworldly, tranquil atmosphere reigned in the city.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhHwlKEWonlvmsddiSWfQYnRjbrLPOQvmtQC22kFqb_s6LAYCeEBEfK88fNYa6pm5ODlSGjOJoyBfDTFDfN4TAjzG20jw3KJT7LmD80F7Il1SpQUGKv_t3e3oy9KMjaEI-gy-52-QoCM/s1600/f14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhHwlKEWonlvmsddiSWfQYnRjbrLPOQvmtQC22kFqb_s6LAYCeEBEfK88fNYa6pm5ODlSGjOJoyBfDTFDfN4TAjzG20jw3KJT7LmD80F7Il1SpQUGKv_t3e3oy9KMjaEI-gy-52-QoCM/s640/f14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />I was near the seaside district of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Be%C5%9Fikta%C5%9F" target="_blank">Beşiktaş</a> when the fog became acute. I quickly grabbed my camera and went to the seafront to take pictures. Many other people were also down by the sea, enjoying the strange atmosphere and the dreamy non-view. The extraordinary event put many people in a festive frame-of-mind. These two guys were having a beer binge on the waterside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4QwE8GuNaxWsgL1BiXspK7W-GiiGk_Wk-U5yI17xFUOJxH9z1FTd7pVz1RiEqi-rkaJB4nHUx3nTYSoT496CS0o1e-P5k1Ww0qIvAyyKZzpOjV7HiXJB16WhcUd4jbKh2cEx7MWyi0c/s1600/f13.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4QwE8GuNaxWsgL1BiXspK7W-GiiGk_Wk-U5yI17xFUOJxH9z1FTd7pVz1RiEqi-rkaJB4nHUx3nTYSoT496CS0o1e-P5k1Ww0qIvAyyKZzpOjV7HiXJB16WhcUd4jbKh2cEx7MWyi0c/s640/f13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />A view of the pier for city liner boats, showing the <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/dir//41.0408592,29.0066151/@41.0408238,29.0065581,73m/data=!3m1!1e3" target="_blank">tiny beach</a> that people sometimes use to swim during the summer. The beer buddies from the previous picture appear in this shot as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKG4MhDRgjiC25-zm-6oSZ9F1M8RYb6C8yotvBvZlOVtrIEt_bXNSi9Tq32FtOnsaf7gTcl3jAmONsZRXb1jNLeZ1IE_gZ5pLoNYQ_MRmz1-w9d78BdDjP9pCXSyAOeKqb4_eskkS0RAM/s1600/f08.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKG4MhDRgjiC25-zm-6oSZ9F1M8RYb6C8yotvBvZlOVtrIEt_bXNSi9Tq32FtOnsaf7gTcl3jAmONsZRXb1jNLeZ1IE_gZ5pLoNYQ_MRmz1-w9d78BdDjP9pCXSyAOeKqb4_eskkS0RAM/s640/f08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />The fog, much like snow, masked Istanbul's chaos and ugliness beneath a magical veil, if only momentarily.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5xbFWNnJRvyVBMH9YRRgvHcKc0RwGieorg5gWdnpe4nR9sCxX3WJnDsYdV6ifynl_FXA083sIoiJEbEia-urznfp7c46VCpHb_fzfSBtjRX6YBSmBzO70C8FB3EbCCkRfDGNcyvnYOw/s1600/f03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5xbFWNnJRvyVBMH9YRRgvHcKc0RwGieorg5gWdnpe4nR9sCxX3WJnDsYdV6ifynl_FXA083sIoiJEbEia-urznfp7c46VCpHb_fzfSBtjRX6YBSmBzO70C8FB3EbCCkRfDGNcyvnYOw/s640/f03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Two friends were having lunch on this ugly concrete "viewpoint" by the sea. Under the fog, however, the architectural abomination had become something beautiful; a balcony overlooking infinity in all directions.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuQd3wzsS505jSFLajJZ4MIPYNgSTvd9onwqxK2cqqFGrJoT8l10OyTkmPQR6ZPAkOVkKZ_QKv3XU1hhcI7vcKlGgS1oc33JKMGRJFeb7MY5qq8wa8ROYcIClZLkVIevNkPEnojiEkxo/s1600/f09.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuQd3wzsS505jSFLajJZ4MIPYNgSTvd9onwqxK2cqqFGrJoT8l10OyTkmPQR6ZPAkOVkKZ_QKv3XU1hhcI7vcKlGgS1oc33JKMGRJFeb7MY5qq8wa8ROYcIClZLkVIevNkPEnojiEkxo/s640/f09.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Young people by the sea.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5NyhYsfb27f91wLY3ijzTVEmUb3F5Cv_156VmJ2sb5c6XSb2Rd46NYqVY__i8xfPz-iJHUA4KFEGWABxhoKhIQ23TQ6lHS_dSyKFsNHm0aUZdubChKNQEUNO48nhtsErfDT2ht-loBtE/s1600/f17.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5NyhYsfb27f91wLY3ijzTVEmUb3F5Cv_156VmJ2sb5c6XSb2Rd46NYqVY__i8xfPz-iJHUA4KFEGWABxhoKhIQ23TQ6lHS_dSyKFsNHm0aUZdubChKNQEUNO48nhtsErfDT2ht-loBtE/s640/f17.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Needless to say, the atmosphere was extremely romantic. Shrouded by the colourless mist, many young couples were hugging, talking or making out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOjwrU6G2muduiAtsabSfRtpLz72AT_c_lndcc73xmrQDn_Sk3MfnwHVIGZBvbHpOQu2nNYLLw3Ib3TnpuBhGVGVu2TTaoxJ9Vx9RpFV4iGocJWUvSoHoiUQO77eFwteGDihO2noVJqo/s1600/f12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOjwrU6G2muduiAtsabSfRtpLz72AT_c_lndcc73xmrQDn_Sk3MfnwHVIGZBvbHpOQu2nNYLLw3Ib3TnpuBhGVGVu2TTaoxJ9Vx9RpFV4iGocJWUvSoHoiUQO77eFwteGDihO2noVJqo/s640/f12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Raucous hordes of seagulls added to the otherworldly atmosphere. These were black-headed gulls, <i>Chroicocephalus ridibundus; </i>and little seagulls, <i>Larus minutus</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkk1m_s_qA0iLoTEvUHzoWMOmIT0sk2p1ruLGNzxiwRN4l7AuLGeH6IyCzIcDlsRLPVnmEchPugpLax77LNT6WzXJg6c5ZAlgUap5mYCD89ifC1S32Rasm9Qk2la9tHUwRImMVHU16PEc/s1600/f+d.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkk1m_s_qA0iLoTEvUHzoWMOmIT0sk2p1ruLGNzxiwRN4l7AuLGeH6IyCzIcDlsRLPVnmEchPugpLax77LNT6WzXJg6c5ZAlgUap5mYCD89ifC1S32Rasm9Qk2la9tHUwRImMVHU16PEc/s640/f+d.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />More seabirds: little seagulls, <i>Larus minutus</i>; Eurasian coots, <i>Fulica atra</i>; and surprisingly, mallards, <i>Anas platyrhynchos</i>. The mallards were not natives of the Bosporus, they were kept by nearby fishermen and fed a "healthy diet" of bread and bird feed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggGS0R8ES_My8l59H_4LG39BI9HPE_irxvtDOlAZEc8xLeDNCGdM2tOWmJ7_S6AF_e9GaHYnKyupIt5kiUZKwfbbs7h2ItMzfnW9k7QOfDKtVTMvgLZp9nZEOkl37BDkXF61AzQLxB46E/s1600/f+j.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggGS0R8ES_My8l59H_4LG39BI9HPE_irxvtDOlAZEc8xLeDNCGdM2tOWmJ7_S6AF_e9GaHYnKyupIt5kiUZKwfbbs7h2ItMzfnW9k7QOfDKtVTMvgLZp9nZEOkl37BDkXF61AzQLxB46E/s640/f+j.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />The sea was thick with a bloom of jellyfish. Their population explosion had nothing to do with the fog, it was a result of overall sea pollution.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJv6w9IgtGVb7O0kKWz_jtRgVFsq90RceL6fkcP8OFRQUd4eKYzd1jd8lN-EYIb8N4q2nZ6nNlZ7Njw-c7I957n5EslfbzuhR67B481eeypH5ECy77oj0ziU1tcUw1kN3lc9uC7PhU_M/s1600/f11.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJv6w9IgtGVb7O0kKWz_jtRgVFsq90RceL6fkcP8OFRQUd4eKYzd1jd8lN-EYIb8N4q2nZ6nNlZ7Njw-c7I957n5EslfbzuhR67B481eeypH5ECy77oj0ziU1tcUw1kN3lc9uC7PhU_M/s640/f11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />More seagulls and moored boats by the "tiny beach." The air had a cool, moist, yet brisk flavour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxuGvSOoreNDupxn18uO53XGMIlw47_BbvYBEu1FbSmccxO37hEW7mDydos0z0wxxg6RVeAUiRd7NciYKWiiy8HJsePasrtqTCNaXKjxFXPi4RKXUngN5pd7CWCcE8DpOlZMehLkEWAFw/s1600/f+m01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxuGvSOoreNDupxn18uO53XGMIlw47_BbvYBEu1FbSmccxO37hEW7mDydos0z0wxxg6RVeAUiRd7NciYKWiiy8HJsePasrtqTCNaXKjxFXPi4RKXUngN5pd7CWCcE8DpOlZMehLkEWAFw/s640/f+m01.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />A view from a seaside square, with newly-pruned trees and the beetling hulks of Ottoman-era naval canon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBfNct4743XULtSSNm2ZQzyen7ICXf3qZNBgZ8ODx5-kSPnSUCARrdkx_keJ9T9pp8mDG_lIkWBZxxJic6QY5DNJq5mKuglAKtci-C76bTAdUaBkkfFIjnyZ-F89zPxIYka2eXNMr6Z0/s1600/f+c.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBfNct4743XULtSSNm2ZQzyen7ICXf3qZNBgZ8ODx5-kSPnSUCARrdkx_keJ9T9pp8mDG_lIkWBZxxJic6QY5DNJq5mKuglAKtci-C76bTAdUaBkkfFIjnyZ-F89zPxIYka2eXNMr6Z0/s640/f+c.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />A close-up of one of the large cast-iron naval artillery pieces, used by the Ottoman Empire in the 17th and the 18th centuries.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvek9UzlACxadTWCRUU6fq8HMOjHJqYGaxfkh6btszR8lr7nN4ROBbwbtb32Ytr855NSxpwMT_jOnhDjxGv5Y-_KZrJvSjHa4x9Qh0w8CKlPnyKrk6GMdM4MWArP7n0tquM04IZ3Oets4/s1600/f01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvek9UzlACxadTWCRUU6fq8HMOjHJqYGaxfkh6btszR8lr7nN4ROBbwbtb32Ytr855NSxpwMT_jOnhDjxGv5Y-_KZrJvSjHa4x9Qh0w8CKlPnyKrk6GMdM4MWArP7n0tquM04IZ3Oets4/s640/f01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Boat travel in the Bosporus was restricted, but anyone who has lived in Turkey knows that such rules are always broken. This small tour-boat, festively decorated with flags and colourful balloons, was coasting along the seashore.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0_TWKgU1DVdqJfRgjYhTXWQ6pH9UNvQv569hrw59p8lfIysDYVxNTbf-UqBeUHn1EFdZGAeb-yjDnPhkWjsVdoFYSILxyVqoqGdN1X9RfPNTaW1nhyphenhyphen4kFMIJ02O8TYhEKFhcXbnKEo8/s1600/f06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0_TWKgU1DVdqJfRgjYhTXWQ6pH9UNvQv569hrw59p8lfIysDYVxNTbf-UqBeUHn1EFdZGAeb-yjDnPhkWjsVdoFYSILxyVqoqGdN1X9RfPNTaW1nhyphenhyphen4kFMIJ02O8TYhEKFhcXbnKEo8/s640/f06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />I wasn't the only photographer around. Many people were out and about with SLR cameras, trying to capture the enchanting atmosphere of the fog.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdLE7dfcP1RYroRydux9YdWhbQMTTMVMdLnjlAXLkIKku80akKsxaZkso6cQ9YRqibgSg-sA1L5riRWXW4X9uWmghE8krdnvhEc6BeUEhnyKaKaZhEYlq85JB-DBzMuLbsi8rpD_rcNxg/s1600/f04.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdLE7dfcP1RYroRydux9YdWhbQMTTMVMdLnjlAXLkIKku80akKsxaZkso6cQ9YRqibgSg-sA1L5riRWXW4X9uWmghE8krdnvhEc6BeUEhnyKaKaZhEYlq85JB-DBzMuLbsi8rpD_rcNxg/s640/f04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Another photographer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmo0AuptJNdmYknpY5jSf4b31t76SQdJYDY1NXcZdYony-44FFUlRmdQdj55x18o3KychGSDaAJO95jRlMgvqh8aAUglaz6_1uNN_LR3M_jH4DNc0SAggusmxoUY4EF1HqtS7RCcBUqRA/s1600/f05.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmo0AuptJNdmYknpY5jSf4b31t76SQdJYDY1NXcZdYony-44FFUlRmdQdj55x18o3KychGSDaAJO95jRlMgvqh8aAUglaz6_1uNN_LR3M_jH4DNc0SAggusmxoUY4EF1HqtS7RCcBUqRA/s640/f05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Another, more professional guy was recording stock footage with an expensive high-end digital video camera.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLHX9CiR1hC-V-QcSsPfANv7ykfzEXGGjm6liiXWsXaUVLR87BGg2vxk0mMdOBnKq3A9N_Ay8GYPTFzLl7pvzH1WdhyphenhypheniDwTbfT-AHRwVq_v2v0Ssaq8lDO1qqHZMJunHt9HLsDFdKFBk/s1600/f16.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLHX9CiR1hC-V-QcSsPfANv7ykfzEXGGjm6liiXWsXaUVLR87BGg2vxk0mMdOBnKq3A9N_Ay8GYPTFzLl7pvzH1WdhyphenhypheniDwTbfT-AHRwVq_v2v0Ssaq8lDO1qqHZMJunHt9HLsDFdKFBk/s640/f16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />In all, it was a magical day, a nice break from the usual hustle of city life. I considered myself very lucky to be able to go out on a whim and take pictures on a weekday. Many people in Istanbul (and other cities of the world,) are trapped in lock-step existences where they dare not break their daily working routines.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfR_sM1X4EnjQEY8joUAnzv6JeKWBEYwQK5bYY_6vLkzGoBLVM20OTA7bu-GWsGbDPdTDa0dMNTqgzDmZ1-yTtppuMBoWE-fTpW_WDzdHzgSwdQo0lCzYc5rdVc142NlVSqrv41skIt3k/s1600/fx01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfR_sM1X4EnjQEY8joUAnzv6JeKWBEYwQK5bYY_6vLkzGoBLVM20OTA7bu-GWsGbDPdTDa0dMNTqgzDmZ1-yTtppuMBoWE-fTpW_WDzdHzgSwdQo0lCzYc5rdVc142NlVSqrv41skIt3k/s640/fx01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />This, by the way, wasn't the first time I had encountered extreme fog in the Bosporus. In 2010, a sudden fog had descended on the city when I was on one of the boats shuttling between the Asian and European sides of Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3av9jEuS_K_92VQGUb7XFrleNXA8sqMRln4FExzIpIafZMf41AVdtLzbr7rtKf-mw8wZCDbhn6dbRMBDufFCJFnyRLUBMXMpBZ44MlTFe4XMdIEyfJzg4KTvjZzTUhoa6BuNbOBNUE4/s1600/fx02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3av9jEuS_K_92VQGUb7XFrleNXA8sqMRln4FExzIpIafZMf41AVdtLzbr7rtKf-mw8wZCDbhn6dbRMBDufFCJFnyRLUBMXMpBZ44MlTFe4XMdIEyfJzg4KTvjZzTUhoa6BuNbOBNUE4/s640/fx02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Once more, it was a magical and slightly catastrophic experience. The horizon had disappeared, and the boat, without complex navigation instruments, had reached the European shore on the port of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kabata%C5%9F,_Istanbul" target="_blank">Kabataş</a>, some distance from its intended terminus at Beşiktaş.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-80394620252206192822016-01-29T15:37:00.000-08:002018-10-11T05:15:54.206-07:00Encounters with Mediterranean Geckos<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gecko" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">G</span>eckos</a> are among my favourite animals. Wherever I go, I seek them out and try to take their pictures. I want to use this post to showcase the different species of geckos I've encountered in the Mediterranean world.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPReRtztW1pZJ1r4t_mjVG1YcOFELPFASJc1JE3KoPfWDS6hz86Yql4tRsfukqdgM41LdszuYZFhqKJ8_VTItzP2peu77hEJJVieMvD7dNg9_bk7-CboUzKORbYpaf2fyMJTfZLPIFtjA/s1600/gecko+h+01.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPReRtztW1pZJ1r4t_mjVG1YcOFELPFASJc1JE3KoPfWDS6hz86Yql4tRsfukqdgM41LdszuYZFhqKJ8_VTItzP2peu77hEJJVieMvD7dNg9_bk7-CboUzKORbYpaf2fyMJTfZLPIFtjA/s640/gecko+h+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is one of the most common species in Turkey; <i>Hemidactylus turkicus</i>, the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mediterranean_house_gecko" target="_blank"><b>Mediterranean house gecko</b></a>. I'd written about these geckos <a href="http://cmkosemen.blogspot.com.tr/2013/09/two-nocturnal-animals-from-bodrum.html" target="_blank">before</a>. This one was photographed in Istanbul, but these geckos are much more common around Turkey's southern coasts. They are among the most widely-distributed geckos in Eurasia, and they have been introduced to numerous other places as a result of human activity. Note the tiny, reddish mite on the right toe of this guy.</div>
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A species more common in Istanbul is <i>Cyrtopodion </i>(= <i>Mediodactylus</i>) <i>kotschyi</i>, <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyrtopodion_kotschyi" target="_blank">Kotschy's gecko</a>. </b>These geckos are very easy to identify with their un-gecko-like feet, which lack the characteristic adhesive pads. Instead, they have long and kinky fingers that enable them to grip irregularities on walls.<br />
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I found this particular specimen under a log in Istanbul. It was very dark in colour, which meant it was resting. Kotschyi's geckos can <b>change colour</b> to a limited extent.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WFy0luBgZA19SBdUr2uF8LwdkYmlbdC-t_C2qmx7v6GZ_ORBnvsxriFI6k7I8hAcwdcyWmrMDTRS53yGv2g8u1XZcf8u3wEI_XLbjNZqAt_M2SnTjUI6eM1Uuk7zWM4YNoojDPyHAY4/s1600/gecko+k+02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WFy0luBgZA19SBdUr2uF8LwdkYmlbdC-t_C2qmx7v6GZ_ORBnvsxriFI6k7I8hAcwdcyWmrMDTRS53yGv2g8u1XZcf8u3wEI_XLbjNZqAt_M2SnTjUI6eM1Uuk7zWM4YNoojDPyHAY4/s640/gecko+k+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Cyrtopodion kotschyi </i>is widely distributed in Turkey. Specimens from different regions show a lot of variation and some of these are doubtlessly different species and/or sub-species awaiting proper recognition. (As if <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Species_problem" target="_blank">the meaning of the term "species" wasn't complicated enough</a>).<br />
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I found this particular kotschyi on the skirts of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tahtal%C4%B1_Da%C4%9F%C4%B1" target="_blank">Mount Tahtali</a> in Antalya. With larger eyes, prominent "eyelash" scales and a flatter head, it was markedly different from its conspecifics from Istanbul.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh06eMz3IlehgpDnu40MXEnpyyzhjzB36xFldxj-zVibPpxp5bTsgncjo0BMsiggBqzgWWKVqXsm6jJEiNx0lKi8mbztJnYdArkmJKWZSaPgSwdAkohDFPz_zCSI5MeJRx6WJi0M18NQ/s1600/gecko+k+03.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh06eMz3IlehgpDnu40MXEnpyyzhjzB36xFldxj-zVibPpxp5bTsgncjo0BMsiggBqzgWWKVqXsm6jJEiNx0lKi8mbztJnYdArkmJKWZSaPgSwdAkohDFPz_zCSI5MeJRx6WJi0M18NQ/s640/gecko+k+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another Kotschy's gecko, this time from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodrum" target="_blank">Bodrum</a>. This specimen had a brownish colour and more slender features.<br />
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I am very familiar with <i>Hemidactylus</i> and <i>Cyrtopodion</i> geckos in Turkey. Be it in Istanbul or Bodrum, one is never far from their presence during the warmer nights of the year. In Bodrum, I admired them as small, quirky "nocturnal companions" one could easily find when bored with the drudgery of people, the ritual of summer tourism and social life.</div>
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Despite my familiarity with these two kinds, one very famous species of Mediterranean gecko always eluded me - the tough and chunky <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarentola_mauritanica" target="_blank"><b>Moorish gecko</b></a>, <i>Tarentola mauritanica</i>. In September 2015 I had the chance of seeing them live in Sicily, Italy.<br />
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Compared to the timid and smallish <i>Hemidactylus</i> and <i>Cyrtopodion </i>species, the <i>Tarentola</i> of Sicily were big, brazen and fearless - they did not always flee when confronted with people, and they were absolutely everywhere - on walls, in rooms, in densely built-up areas and once even <i>inside</i> a cathedral. In the western part of the island I even saw them basking during the late afternoon - something nocturnally-adapded geckos almost never do.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uuAHKUIML38DNJlp15Q9lO2BuyTfx1yHgsmVILe7kPqQ3WYYe7ygi6nQqhLwNrUUZ85shgLjn6pcw3hZrcMXAXNiZxI1yRgpIYnoNKbZRPcRBQyrymmD43Xrlb4Wgk_PMSgRwv_ErZI/s1600/gecko+t+02.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uuAHKUIML38DNJlp15Q9lO2BuyTfx1yHgsmVILe7kPqQ3WYYe7ygi6nQqhLwNrUUZ85shgLjn6pcw3hZrcMXAXNiZxI1yRgpIYnoNKbZRPcRBQyrymmD43Xrlb4Wgk_PMSgRwv_ErZI/s640/gecko+t+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With the Moorish gecko in my checklist, I completed the "<b>big three</b>" of Mediterranean geckos.<br />
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However, there are still a few species I haven't seen: In Europe the cryptic <b>European leaf-tailed gecko; </b><i>Euleptes europaea;</i> plus a truckload of minor <i>Tarentola</i> species. Turkey I have yet to see the exotic eastern forms: <b>The rough tailed gecko</b>, <i>Cyrtopodion scabrum;</i> <b>the leopard gecko</b><i>, Eublepharis angramainyu;</i> <b>the <strike>Anatolian thin-toed gecko,</strike></b><strike> <i>Mediodactylus heterocercum;</i></strike> and the <b>big-headed thin-toed gecko</b>, <i>Stenodactylus grandiceps... </i>a world of discovery awaits.<br />
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<b>UPDATE</b> (2018):<br />On a trip to the Southeastern Turkish city of <b>Mardin</b> in September, 2018, I had the chance to observe <b>the Anatolian thin-toed geckos,</b> <i>Mediodactylus heterocercum </i>on the wall of a local cafe. Here are a few photographs of these adorable creatures. They strongly resembled the related <i>Cyrtopodion </i>(= <i>Mediodactylus</i>) <i>kotschyi </i>with their naked, pad-less toes; but these animals were larger, and had a more "rugged" look with saw-edged scales. Their fat, scaly "lips" also gave them funny expressions.<br /><br /> <br />
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If you like my gecko portraits, you can also visit <a href="http://www.turkherptil.org/GozlemFoto.asp?UyeId=1319&Durum=6" target="_blank">my gallery of Turkish herptile photos</a> at the <b>ADAMEROS Reptile and Amphibian Monitoring Society of Turkey</b>.<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-36794117603278938182016-01-15T02:47:00.003-08:002017-10-24T10:03:46.163-07:00A Dog with Two Noses<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n January 2016, I took this snapshot of a cute dog waiting by her homeless owner, who was sleeping on a public bench Istanbul's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kad%C4%B1k%C3%B6y" target="_blank">Kadıköy</a> neighbourhood. Just one of the thousand similar scenes you could see in a big city like Istanbul. Nothing unusual, right? Check again.</div>
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The dog, against all reason, seemed to have <b>two noses</b>.</div>
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I did a double take and returned to photograph the dog. Not only did she have two noses, but the <b>entire front half of her face was duplicated</b>. The left nose was slightly smaller than the right one. Each nose had two independent nostrils, but the nostrils facing the interior side were smaller.</div>
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The dog seemed not at all disturbed by this curious deformity. I secretly wondered if her homeless owner had a similarly bifurcated face as well. (He didn't).</div>
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The deformity was most likely caused by severe inbreeding, and was rare enough to make the news, <a href="http://abcnews.go.com/US/meet-nose-toby-dog-extra-snout/story?id=25722430" target="_blank">[1]</a> <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2555141/Sweet-smell-success-Snuffles-dog-two-noses-finally-finds-new-home-Scotland-offers-flood-world.html" target="_blank">[2]</a> where it was referred to as a “one in a several million” incident.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxcCOcYjIaiFCtCy1n9w1x_Q-ZbT_d6l8xqBs5NQr7OuA-VnZAxK5I694CTCuhykNv2paoyATSIPYg385uPNQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
I and a friend later played a frivolous "credit card machine" joke with this dog.</div>
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Alongside one-off sports like these, there are apparently <i>breeds </i>of dogs with a regular occurrence of twin noses. One of these was the spectacularly-named <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/6940289.stm" target="_blank"><i>double-nosed Andean tiger hound</i></a>.</div>
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A breed of double-nosed setter dog named <i><a href="https://www.cesarsway.com/about-dogs/breeds/catalburun" target="_blank">çatalburun</a></i>, (fork-nose,) was also bred in Turkey, near the district of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarsus,_Mersin" target="_blank">Tarsus</a>, where long ago, and completely unrelated to our story, Paul the Apostle was born. This dog was likely a <i>çatalburun </i>hybrid. </div>
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What a strange encounter... People needlessly complain about genetic engineering and GMOs, as if modification of organisms is some blasphemous practice that only started two decades ago. This doggy was a reminder that people have been doing strange things to organisms through <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_breeding" target="_blank">selective breeding</a>, for centuries.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-52678999190594066172016-01-07T12:29:00.002-08:002017-10-24T10:00:15.652-07:00BASKIN: Wall Paintings and Cameo Acting in a Fantastic Horror Film<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">J</span>ust last week, in January 2016, my friend <a href="http://www.canevrenol.com/" target="_blank">Can Evrenol's</a> feature-length film <a href="http://www.baskinthemovie.com/" target="_blank"><i>BASKIN</i></a> (the title translates as "The Raid,") started screening in Turkey, after a prestigious premiere at the Toronto International Film Festival. Back in December 2014, I worked at the film's production as a set painter and inadvertently, in a cameo role as a "cult member."<br />
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Now I can tell you my story on the set of this interesting film.</div>
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<i>Baskın </i>revolves around five Turkish cops answering a distress call from a "haunted house" and ending up in a protracted netherworld of fantastic body horror, gore and circular plot-lines. The film was shot partly at the abandoned docks near the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_of_Haydarpa%C5%9Fa" target="_blank">Port of Haydarpaşa</a>, on the Asian shore of Istanbul.<br />
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This was where I was called on to decorate part of the set. As you can see, the location already had a foreboding, dystopian feeling to it. Turn-of-the-century architecture, built by Germans trying to bolster the Ottoman Empire as an ally for the upcoming global conflict, were juxtaposed with depressingly utilitarian administrative buildings and grain silos built in the 20th century. To top it off, it was all abandoned as a result of a <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/default.aspx?pageid=438&n=killing-istanbul-softly-2009-12-25" target="_blank">cancelled plan</a> to re-zone the district as a commercial centre.</div>
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I was tasked with painting empty walls in this particular building with "demonic murals," for a scene foreshadowing the dark rituals taking place in the film.</div>
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A view of the room I worked in. </div>
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I had brought some printed <a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/sketches" target="_blank">sketches</a> to serve as inspiration and guidance. I spread them to the floor and got to work.</div>
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Can Evrenol wanted the wall-drawings to look extremely crude and primal, as if painted in cataleptic trance by half-human cultists possessed by demonic presences from the beyond. Accordingly, my supplies were also quite Spartan. Only three colours, red, black and white, with thick, damaged brushes to apply them with.</div>
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I was extremely happy to be able to go wild on all those empty walls, without care for spatial or contextual limitations. It was very refreshing to paint fast and dirty, improvised visions and demons growing from my brush as rapidly as I could swing it. I started painting with these <b>twin serpentine forms</b>.</div>
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In front of the <b>twin serpents</b>, which resembled escapees from an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Book_of_the_Dead" target="_blank">Egyptian papyrus of the dead</a>. </div>
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The final incarnation of the <b>twin serpents</b>. To get the atmosphere right, I photographed finished versions of my wall paintings in complete dark, illuminated only by a flashlight of the type the actors would later use in the film.</div>
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I then covered an adjacent wall with this rather over-the-top figure of a <b>bird-demon</b> taking up human sacrifice and splattering the blood of its hapless victim onto its sexually-perverted devotees. The figure was loosely based on the famous demon <b><a href="https://michelledelacey.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-exorcist-max-von-sydow-pazuzu-demon-statue.png" target="_blank">Pazuzu</a></b>, from <i>The Exorcist</i>.</div>
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The <b>bird-demon</b> was a ludicrously exaggerated painting, but it looked quite scary with the right lighting. City-liner boats were plying the Bosphorus in the background, connecting Istanbul's European and Asian halves.</div>
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I continued painting, adding a scene of <b>reptilian shapeshifter sex</b> next to the twin serpents.</div>
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Here is the finished version of the <b>reptilian shapeshifter love scene</b>. To disturb the crisp look of the wall paintings, I later splashed buckets of mud and paint on them. The director, Can, seemed to like this scene a lot - a shot in the film focuses intensely on the spot where the lizard man is penetrating the woman.</div>
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Can Evrenol had told me there would be "<i>something with frogs, transformation and stuff</i>" happening in the film, so I played a little game of world-building with the reptilian sex scene, with the poor girl getting pregnant with the lizard-man's fearful seed, <b>morphing into a frog</b> and giving birth to half human, half-herptile abominations. None of these details were (directly) in the film's plot, but these mental exercises made the wall paintings feel more real and internally consistent.</div>
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I continued the "reptilian mythos," with the frog-girl's progeny crawling around the corner to another wall and there joining, or turning into an "<b>ultimate demon</b>" with blood on its hands.</div>
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Here is the <b>ultimate demon</b> in its completed state. The film's arts department placed a lot of trash and furniture around the wall paintings, heightening the scary atmosphere of the room.</div>
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A view of the many "<b>little herps</b>" I added around the main reptilian sequence for extra depth.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCXz6itP_OJABfYkCg4dGZ2OXTwhZirlq_87COsDwDwET7A0iV-thkvquKYtbvG9Tb527HiosBkHpKy1ThyphenhyphenP6IQDonmAdUPSIStLlCPGXbdDIT_kRrDzWxh1ERXhflt1c5TkQUIxU5pkw/s1600/b17b.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCXz6itP_OJABfYkCg4dGZ2OXTwhZirlq_87COsDwDwET7A0iV-thkvquKYtbvG9Tb527HiosBkHpKy1ThyphenhyphenP6IQDonmAdUPSIStLlCPGXbdDIT_kRrDzWxh1ERXhflt1c5TkQUIxU5pkw/s640/b17b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is me painting a frog!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwR0jprdt6UrxB077E_Wj_lftCImp4qpPixMyBvWZzTJz1taY70hKOgXWHWs-4XYqWZqnarEUZtG7eBWJ2dcimC_KJYi_XHq0Y6u2OXcZmJDFNIiliscZj4r6zx9sq_40SPsaRlg_nJ0/s1600/b17c.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwR0jprdt6UrxB077E_Wj_lftCImp4qpPixMyBvWZzTJz1taY70hKOgXWHWs-4XYqWZqnarEUZtG7eBWJ2dcimC_KJYi_XHq0Y6u2OXcZmJDFNIiliscZj4r6zx9sq_40SPsaRlg_nJ0/s640/b17c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A glimpse from the finalised <b>reptilian sequence</b>, with the extra frog figure, splatters of mud, dust and debris. Imagine running into something like this in real life!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yqQpkVhmOrQKMXwGMSxLA_pveuzsuIEqCEBgm_5gS6cdL6CyAaAevuKN-sgbunIfi9MLnY_evt3y18c9ae8wSM5Z8Ph59ObMJWU3y7RHaoKOJ9vkjmUdsMCPZqI8b3gDtg98BmnxTyY/s1600/b18.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yqQpkVhmOrQKMXwGMSxLA_pveuzsuIEqCEBgm_5gS6cdL6CyAaAevuKN-sgbunIfi9MLnY_evt3y18c9ae8wSM5Z8Ph59ObMJWU3y7RHaoKOJ9vkjmUdsMCPZqI8b3gDtg98BmnxTyY/s640/b18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then painted a sort of <b>lovecraftian deity</b> on the left side of the reptilian sequence. The weather was quite cold at this time of the year and I had to work the night-round with a coat, scarf and cap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVW7d3iNdqy90uwHvpf9iKH9T9DkTuvFZ3ssP9YTmg-F2MXCODmYXF7w4_uSaLEO7cohw-fWHglWJTqQOsoqu47FA29uR4pHp3dyzopsVfc5muww8NvWiz-kqQWXjaOSBWFqhpuvbOdK8/s1600/b19.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVW7d3iNdqy90uwHvpf9iKH9T9DkTuvFZ3ssP9YTmg-F2MXCODmYXF7w4_uSaLEO7cohw-fWHglWJTqQOsoqu47FA29uR4pHp3dyzopsVfc5muww8NvWiz-kqQWXjaOSBWFqhpuvbOdK8/s640/b19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is the <b>lovecraftian deity</b>, with accessory figures and various little herps, in its finished state.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYWfn6JniGLWkiBwucFXKrMVkTTe0BbwWrMgkUfKq-sJEXVAPtvg-scNH2q64YMX12hflSJ2jTZBdpFSxnjZcGW-FrHbF62NfN7sljuWcbCGpkkk0HycBh5AlcoQ3Tcc5QCCvXcOaLbhk/s1600/b20.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYWfn6JniGLWkiBwucFXKrMVkTTe0BbwWrMgkUfKq-sJEXVAPtvg-scNH2q64YMX12hflSJ2jTZBdpFSxnjZcGW-FrHbF62NfN7sljuWcbCGpkkk0HycBh5AlcoQ3Tcc5QCCvXcOaLbhk/s640/b20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The film was also to have lots of people and dead bodies cocooned and suspended from the walls, <i>Aliens </i>style. I thus painted some <b>cocooned people</b>, and <b>toothed demons</b> feeding on them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA5dgSGxxX8IS9rGr0M4CnK1fzzWorsnqUs4ghlTwJIJ9rmOLhJfODMkzvCZmmy-BGLsKBMuE59JesrinS8nW1_Z9MsdEwdrVJ-KW9oRkP2dpOAd1wVBM_tvsgfkrq_e3mIeSH1darY8s/s1600/b21.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA5dgSGxxX8IS9rGr0M4CnK1fzzWorsnqUs4ghlTwJIJ9rmOLhJfODMkzvCZmmy-BGLsKBMuE59JesrinS8nW1_Z9MsdEwdrVJ-KW9oRkP2dpOAd1wVBM_tvsgfkrq_e3mIeSH1darY8s/s640/b21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is the final version of the <b>cocoon people</b> painting. Note the <b>bird-demon</b> figure in the background, on another wall of the room.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinODcCv7Eh89U84QykDf_2be4JMcQIW_dY_FIdBsOQrv7sTicz8-wlYETulqH4Vo-k0dMdF9j0ott0EqW7Nf1cAlEp_x9Uuo8r7T0DmHkS1w8p3c6JF5BkEOGoBym4wSOOnJUpx9gab4/s1600/b22.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinODcCv7Eh89U84QykDf_2be4JMcQIW_dY_FIdBsOQrv7sTicz8-wlYETulqH4Vo-k0dMdF9j0ott0EqW7Nf1cAlEp_x9Uuo8r7T0DmHkS1w8p3c6JF5BkEOGoBym4wSOOnJUpx9gab4/s640/b22.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
I liked the <b>toothed demons</b> a lot, so I painted a few more of them on a nearby concrete column.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxUTyv8fdIimEmE7U3cujycpvjgwRboxik4axhT4FOxZdWAN-011JMMLlEg2TMfODshf1PcpeK7mUMDv0o2bXDcVNUQ4UrWg_z5Frk2hyz0WiMpObJPwJpST478bopKnzqnOOGvTeMBs/s1600/b23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxUTyv8fdIimEmE7U3cujycpvjgwRboxik4axhT4FOxZdWAN-011JMMLlEg2TMfODshf1PcpeK7mUMDv0o2bXDcVNUQ4UrWg_z5Frk2hyz0WiMpObJPwJpST478bopKnzqnOOGvTeMBs/s640/b23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another <b>toothed demon</b>, it looks quite happy to see you!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW73ViQDLMPfL68NYJEagRTVPO4bGAzdlDXpIYLyk1oKDvIOeFmmCsKvszWQXTpCBu3MMLj8loN_gns57heljg77K4G5G9pjUzz2RgSDKWqGfmieX6t-42SSDffwOTU8AKCrHePv5k0wk/s1600/b24.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW73ViQDLMPfL68NYJEagRTVPO4bGAzdlDXpIYLyk1oKDvIOeFmmCsKvszWQXTpCBu3MMLj8loN_gns57heljg77K4G5G9pjUzz2RgSDKWqGfmieX6t-42SSDffwOTU8AKCrHePv5k0wk/s640/b24.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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More <b>toothed demons</b>...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjlmtiXociro4LwMBMHUo5EMYO5QVh740zObZrI1miLPyvAqTw4bxnQkcvcbcyrMxcDsbtinHxYKkcDq_STUS-iGWLgzm9QlUw9JPI6UE1Io-xeIkNiSX1eNg7I47KYxC6T_JBnORUNWc/s1600/b25.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjlmtiXociro4LwMBMHUo5EMYO5QVh740zObZrI1miLPyvAqTw4bxnQkcvcbcyrMxcDsbtinHxYKkcDq_STUS-iGWLgzm9QlUw9JPI6UE1Io-xeIkNiSX1eNg7I47KYxC6T_JBnORUNWc/s640/b25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These two <b>red kings</b>, based on the <a href="http://www.ancient-origins.net/ancient-places-americas/haunting-rock-art-sego-canyon-extra-terrestrials-or-spiritual-visions-001584" target="_blank">haunting rock art of Sego Canyon, USA</a>, were almost painted as an afterthought. I was surprised to see them getting a lot of screen time in the finished film.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BdeIm0QPN1JYxQsY8RIE-784FfgnibN62QuAm7YPRddCRwf8x99fb8IASCs_odREGOBOJLHDhQFmCNprOBMZHk0FUBknhX_62DtLlXVClScA-3G6J1CUTuHBI0NxEiXc1Cj_6BIQUcA/s1600/b26.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BdeIm0QPN1JYxQsY8RIE-784FfgnibN62QuAm7YPRddCRwf8x99fb8IASCs_odREGOBOJLHDhQFmCNprOBMZHk0FUBknhX_62DtLlXVClScA-3G6J1CUTuHBI0NxEiXc1Cj_6BIQUcA/s640/b26.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
This figure, which I named <b>Lilith of the Serpents</b>, was painted on another column near the <b>reptilian sequence</b>. It was the final piece I completed on the set.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOYb0vNwfhCdCxm_NdNAeHowVCsVP4VPnTWE21JwJGsAxYdOplT_eRoAWnZAlK3V-_8MsyRe6Q9nbXs9-wkEA8BC72KGpoYWWJhQ64IeWxTC7CDylIBIQJi74U5hCEXk8vmRBd1pr8go/s1600/b26x.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOYb0vNwfhCdCxm_NdNAeHowVCsVP4VPnTWE21JwJGsAxYdOplT_eRoAWnZAlK3V-_8MsyRe6Q9nbXs9-wkEA8BC72KGpoYWWJhQ64IeWxTC7CDylIBIQJi74U5hCEXk8vmRBd1pr8go/s640/b26x.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a collated, high-resolution version of the <b>reptilian sequence</b> in its final incarnation. I was extremely proud of these paintings, I wished I could make more. You can download this picture <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByV5-S712cg8TG93U1pzdDVwd2c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">here </a>for a full view.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFS5zgIPV7u5PGirTqW_bfc18Xb7HyagwwxleFVv4EHJLEfhnZmZIlqyVmQtXymxaFK34dXlzqc7-nTlylAHcMQfRS_5K6KvcpjY1hTToi534e6KojHuemKV8iAwaqVNUSlr3bkQjmLTU/s1600/b27.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFS5zgIPV7u5PGirTqW_bfc18Xb7HyagwwxleFVv4EHJLEfhnZmZIlqyVmQtXymxaFK34dXlzqc7-nTlylAHcMQfRS_5K6KvcpjY1hTToi534e6KojHuemKV8iAwaqVNUSlr3bkQjmLTU/s640/b27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The paintings were done, but my time on <i>Baskın </i>was not over yet. A few days later, Can Evrenol, remembering my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AUMgJByxGw" target="_blank">hyper-flexible joints</a>, called me to ask if I'd like to play a cameo role as a weird cultist in a big scene he was filming. Never one to miss an opportunity for fame, I agreed and visited him on the film's set on Istanbul's historic <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatih" target="_blank">Fatih</a> district.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQ262H5WRiewMUkB0fYJ3GRw8-XgZXBEJCdVp5toFkFvXr-HMXwY9EL0mRgbVYm61ZmpXVxjhDv6rPetTU3sHpU9jeTlmaDwVtw1oq-V_YMvOGoAJTjQJzvSQxXVVG-LMGBfPArkJBKQ/s1600/b28.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQ262H5WRiewMUkB0fYJ3GRw8-XgZXBEJCdVp5toFkFvXr-HMXwY9EL0mRgbVYm61ZmpXVxjhDv6rPetTU3sHpU9jeTlmaDwVtw1oq-V_YMvOGoAJTjQJzvSQxXVVG-LMGBfPArkJBKQ/s640/b28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Can & his crew were filming inside a centuries-old, domed structure, left over from the Byzantine era. This led to some bizarre juxtapositions like this crew kitchen set up next to this ancient Byzantine column capital.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkaiL2wmCwCSTcVvrmI4g4Bk1s7yQB0Jj3mjV6zy1MpNQbUMl8SUPQHBdU9P4Ylpm0_3JTGK-Nx5LxWQJBd2_eUYB06FDfx-Z_SCYtXfOD6-9B_2465SsLeprwYzJIC1HKRFwZMF8F5I/s1600/b29.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkaiL2wmCwCSTcVvrmI4g4Bk1s7yQB0Jj3mjV6zy1MpNQbUMl8SUPQHBdU9P4Ylpm0_3JTGK-Nx5LxWQJBd2_eUYB06FDfx-Z_SCYtXfOD6-9B_2465SsLeprwYzJIC1HKRFwZMF8F5I/s640/b29.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I played the role of a quivering, cataleptic cultist alongside a great crew of performers; Elif Dağ, Hayati Citaklar, Leman, Tuğba, Aslıhan, İhsan Öz and İhsan Ön, Sema, Kerem, Derin, and Burakhan. For our roles we were stripped nearly naked, doused with a cold, sticky concoction of fake blood and wore dark plastic masks.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVj-BPS4k5wYa1cajzitcaLnlARX-ZrK7wRfOjB7GoUmvgmH8RceLFppKXijoLrmLuM7RVnQUdH1z4fTfDY-CqTnovn1G_8-K02o7LaGnTTlNlGqOdAXU1Q_TtpDXCX66fkMtZRBg5P4/s1600/b30.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVj-BPS4k5wYa1cajzitcaLnlARX-ZrK7wRfOjB7GoUmvgmH8RceLFppKXijoLrmLuM7RVnQUdH1z4fTfDY-CqTnovn1G_8-K02o7LaGnTTlNlGqOdAXU1Q_TtpDXCX66fkMtZRBg5P4/s640/b30.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Despite being extremely fun, working at this unheated set in winter was a very cold and tiring experience. Long times spent waiting for the crew to re-arrange the stage really stretched our tolerance. At one point I grew extremely tired and guiltily left the set after a few hours of filming. I later learnt that the rest of the cultist crew kept on working from late afternoon to dawn, for two more days.<br />
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I was not an official member of the cast, but I felt bad about leaving these people behind. To make up for my weak early departure, I gave tiny personal sketches to each member of the cultist crew.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKERLpuPnlE2zaPtcntGt4A4FyN1YlVrGnw6nz5q57Qo-NuzRJo9Uk-qcEQ4MujVW3NU73F5jCJRVquQP4p_7mCpokNsrn44OxqMM17MkskVi9qf7QCXGrGXt-8qiEreAVgv_1nGapBHA/s1600/b31.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKERLpuPnlE2zaPtcntGt4A4FyN1YlVrGnw6nz5q57Qo-NuzRJo9Uk-qcEQ4MujVW3NU73F5jCJRVquQP4p_7mCpokNsrn44OxqMM17MkskVi9qf7QCXGrGXt-8qiEreAVgv_1nGapBHA/s640/b31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A nice perk of the exhausting filming experience was this 3 AM visit to a historical Turkish bath to scrub off the fake blood covering all parts of my body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuW6lKNv6-FlGrol7pv6IG8DLeawCmtoX8JqU_Spz_ILRnJ7Tkae9YKbfZ1o23TG5RvMeRzGjkQCi6w6hDdsbt3rRwOlHIWMdVVW0TrVyo9PYYLGn0ew_wGGlkDc5FFjbOEmD0xlwtQZs/s1600/b29b.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuW6lKNv6-FlGrol7pv6IG8DLeawCmtoX8JqU_Spz_ILRnJ7Tkae9YKbfZ1o23TG5RvMeRzGjkQCi6w6hDdsbt3rRwOlHIWMdVVW0TrVyo9PYYLGn0ew_wGGlkDc5FFjbOEmD0xlwtQZs/s640/b29b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the end, I was delighted to have my gnarly fingers (seen here on the left,) show up in a few key shots in the final cut and the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BN8MaQ38U4" target="_blank">trailer</a> of <i>Baskın</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhspB4_XZzeE7xaq8Mr7bfEyna3_MpoHq07JWOtlxJCHfuMCjwnzzFAp9i-X7fH85UUXk5DWuMiVME0Cv1-DjbqDAiWY1luCwwN6Goy-DAC1H0D51MZ0dzDbY6fOM2picOPjOFPoYwwTa4/s1600/b29c.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhspB4_XZzeE7xaq8Mr7bfEyna3_MpoHq07JWOtlxJCHfuMCjwnzzFAp9i-X7fH85UUXk5DWuMiVME0Cv1-DjbqDAiWY1luCwwN6Goy-DAC1H0D51MZ0dzDbY6fOM2picOPjOFPoYwwTa4/s640/b29c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My wall paintings also made generous appearances, adding to the suspense of the film's first half.</div>
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<i>Baskın </i>is now playing in theatres around Turkey. After March 25, 2016, it will be screened in 26 more countries, including the US, UK and Australia. I'm sure it will be available online in the future too.<br />
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<i>Baskın </i>is not only of the more technically-apt horror films to come out of Turkey, but also the first Turkish horror films with thematical links to the global milieu of cult underground horror films.<br />
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There are <a href="http://www.imdb.com/list/ls056488661/" target="_blank">dozens of horror films</a> in Turkey, based mostly on cheap sound-effects and over-used "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jinn" target="_blank">jinn</a>" themes. Against them, <i>Baskın </i>is, if you will, a "thinking man's horror film." I recommend everyone reading this blog to go watch it as soon as possible.<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-39407960096654200232015-08-12T08:15:00.000-07:002017-12-05T15:39:02.705-08:00Traces of Mediterranean Refugees<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n August 2015, I took a brief seashore walk around the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitez" target="_blank">Bitez</a> peninsula, near <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodrum" target="_blank">Bodrum</a>, a popular holiday destination in Turkey.</div>
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I noticed a pile of leftover clothes, blankets, backpacks and socks on the rocks - discarded items of refugees who had spent the previous night on the spot. Bodrum is very close to the Greek island of <b>Kos</b>, which is a <a href="http://www.globalresearch.ca/kos-bodrum-the-mediterraneans-desperate-refugees-and-a-dying-child/5466311" target="_blank">main destination</a> for Middle Eastern refugees seeking shelter in Europe. Every night, groups of refugees were boarding boats operated by human traffickers and heading to the Koan shores. This, apparently, was one of their pick-up points. I had been hearing about the <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/joseph-v-micallef/reflections-on-the-medite_b_7120708.html" target="_blank">Mediterranean refugee crisis</a> for a while now, but this was the first time I found actual evidence of it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjFc0n2WRBITTsA7uIn8tguYXa99x-zHJOv6OOemKi_iqrmpJtW7xhRMscpA8523tzV0gEgX-HcSaz1FaybwkhAYNue42MFYiGZwERWSQMzq7D4bBvHzr4BPwV9pKjUCSe6ugPGz4q5lE/s1600/ref+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjFc0n2WRBITTsA7uIn8tguYXa99x-zHJOv6OOemKi_iqrmpJtW7xhRMscpA8523tzV0gEgX-HcSaz1FaybwkhAYNue42MFYiGZwERWSQMzq7D4bBvHzr4BPwV9pKjUCSe6ugPGz4q5lE/s640/ref+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Seeing the refugees' leftovers made me uneasy with sadness and more than a little guilt. Only ten meters from this spot stood the beach club where affluent Turks (including myself), enjoyed carefree vacations.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFxLvoPAFePDjCYhWK6nrYiv9WHKbCd9RIzA383_6DgKCGstzh8n7QeaQnDkm3vz4jbR-vkW1lJmcubAmW_Gvuf-czD635hBYVlbrUIOjArJ03PjKwh9M3qCDnx4n3bI2Y_CzXisal0TY/s1600/ref+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFxLvoPAFePDjCYhWK6nrYiv9WHKbCd9RIzA383_6DgKCGstzh8n7QeaQnDkm3vz4jbR-vkW1lJmcubAmW_Gvuf-czD635hBYVlbrUIOjArJ03PjKwh9M3qCDnx4n3bI2Y_CzXisal0TY/s640/ref+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Encounters like this were very common this summer. Eager to make them part of someone else's problem, Turkish authorities were turning a blind eye to the invisible legions passing through their territory. A few days after I found these traces, a band of refugees came ashore, apparently from a failed crossing attempt, next to a seaside hotel where guests were having morning yoga practice. This collusion of worlds was photographed, and made it to the national news.<br />
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The Mediterranean is no stranger to mass migration. "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_Peoples" target="_blank">Sea people</a>" have plied its waters every few generations. I wonder how the current crisis will be resolved, and what kind of world it will result in.<br />
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<a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-12148491710561246292015-07-13T09:34:00.001-07:002015-07-13T09:34:14.235-07:00Abandoned Bunkers and Pillboxes in the Dodecanese<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">N</span>ations, like people, spend a lot of time and effort preparing for eventualities that do not always take place. In August 2014, I visited the Dodecanese islands of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kos" target="_blank">Kos</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodes" target="_blank">Rhodes</a> on a summer trip. During my visits to several beaches, I noticed many derelict pillboxes and bunkers facing the Turkish coast.<br />
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I guess these structures were built by the Greek army to ward off an amphibious invasion from Turkey. But they could date back to earlier decades - before 1947 the islands belonged to Italy, and they suffered years of German occupation during WWII. Either of those powers could have built them in anticipation of a mainland attack.</div>
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Seaside pillbox from Kos.</div>
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Sunken pillbox from Kos. This structure probably wasn't built in the water, but was later submerged after an earthquake. The coastline in the background is Asia Minor.</div>
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Another view of the submerged pillbox. This is a rather popular structure, it shows up on many tourist albums across the internet.</div>
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The defensive bunkers in Rhodes were built a few dozen meters inland, covering the beaches that faced the Turkish shore. Many of them were overgrown with vegetation.</div>
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Another bunker, used as a dumping ground for a nearby restaurant. I tried to get in, but they were rigidly shut down. A local told me that the bunkers are <i>"all locked up because the kids keep doing drugs in them."</i> I could only photograph few of these structures, but many more exist on the islands. They are fascinating glimpses of a world that has all but disappeared in the past few decades of the European union and the advent of mass tourism.<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7568721606834979257.post-67040556711731988792015-04-21T07:11:00.000-07:002018-01-05T03:45:39.563-08:00The Sculpture Garden of Cuma Altıntaş- An Outsider Artist from Bodrum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span>n June 2013, I was driving across the back-roads of Turkey's <b>Bodrum </b>peninsula. While passing a dusty path, I noticed a <b>surreal legion</b> of painted, stick-like sculptures posed on the roadside. There were hundreds of them...</div>
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hundreds...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwbemUuWmsj0eywhHCyLcvMddzagQ_A30YnlzM1RatPzE35Ix56k54LtyerlXtq1u3n9mFsbd0ntT3UONUiHfWbNUN3tHs99FgcjRFFZLAcDHB_zyEpQDsqxUchhV-cL10FC1YrVr9oE/s1600/bs03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwbemUuWmsj0eywhHCyLcvMddzagQ_A30YnlzM1RatPzE35Ix56k54LtyerlXtq1u3n9mFsbd0ntT3UONUiHfWbNUN3tHs99FgcjRFFZLAcDHB_zyEpQDsqxUchhV-cL10FC1YrVr9oE/s1600/bs03.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Weird forms: Dragons riding bicycles; women; <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurgan_stelae" target="_blank">balbal</a>-like humanoid figures, made out of wood or a strange mix of concrete and plaster; were lined up for yards on end. <b>It was a delightful forest of anomalies,</b> a spectacle more fitting to a crazy surrealist's estate from Spain or France rather than the artistic and intellectual desert that is Turkey. I was pleasantly surprised. I got out of my car and started exploring the forest of sculptures.</div>
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Soon, a small figure emerged from a hut at the far end of the field and walked towards me in greeting. Wizened, dark and cryptic, he looked like one of the statues come to life.</div>
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He was the sculptor who made this wonderful forest, and his name was <b>Cuma Altıntaş.</b> We sat down outside his hut and he told me his story. A Kurd from a village near <b>Sivas</b> in the far-eastern part of Turkey, he had escaped to Bodrum after a troubled youth involving <b>political persecution, inter-family strife and heartbreak.</b><br />
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When younger, he was castigated by village elders for making sculptures, which are forbidden in the Moslem religion. Cuma told me he was tormented by all sorts of nightmares caused by his childhood guilt about making statues.<br />
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In his new life in Bodrum, Cuma lived by selling his sculptures to well-off Turks wishing to decorate their holiday villas, and by working in local gardens and fields when ends didn't meet. He had gained limited fame as an eccentric local artist; he had appeared in several newspaper articles and was once on TV.<br />
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As a fellow artist, I was honoured to meet him. It is very rare in Turkey to meet a creator with a vision and style as distinct as Cuma's. As we walked through his garden I took hundreds of photos, and Cuma explained me some of their meanings.<br />
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Here is a small selection from Cuma's garden of unearthly delights:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUrIJKugt1uxocc4bBCQ1iSh-hdDk3hzEBITUbx2NQ1pmJwy50Yc8_rFwU0wLnV7kL4YiqKINTzdBnAr8aNsmM3MLJAtgmo1wURGHYB9TDoI6UANZJyrw8FP1Mdb5YZZYYB1q_ypiAY0/s1600/bx01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUrIJKugt1uxocc4bBCQ1iSh-hdDk3hzEBITUbx2NQ1pmJwy50Yc8_rFwU0wLnV7kL4YiqKINTzdBnAr8aNsmM3MLJAtgmo1wURGHYB9TDoI6UANZJyrw8FP1Mdb5YZZYYB1q_ypiAY0/s1600/bx01.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A horned lady, sculpted out of wood.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQY9dl1WTykjc7G4k5fxapHqVesI0vTJWMkm2nH5zK9xkRwbi-r5iemrg8xB0atKntYFTBx6ed0OVIXSJvA_FDhO4gKhgmYzLS7aulDVnoDIpQlu1TeRidgx3nlzV0vGPQGyzDWFoMHI/s1600/bx02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQY9dl1WTykjc7G4k5fxapHqVesI0vTJWMkm2nH5zK9xkRwbi-r5iemrg8xB0atKntYFTBx6ed0OVIXSJvA_FDhO4gKhgmYzLS7aulDVnoDIpQlu1TeRidgx3nlzV0vGPQGyzDWFoMHI/s1600/bx02.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pallid face with horns, a "demon" according to Cuma.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMY5VPmek4jtxMl_dcG1tmuTyS_qzn8juVGN5OGC4ua383nOOZ6KejUFzL27H7mIlx1SRC_EsibxmHt5TYA_KuP5nxt-mrUrJcC3MLXpOadRVrGMrGPt8bffx_e9ZQ95KozshOUvBPTng/s1600/bx03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMY5VPmek4jtxMl_dcG1tmuTyS_qzn8juVGN5OGC4ua383nOOZ6KejUFzL27H7mIlx1SRC_EsibxmHt5TYA_KuP5nxt-mrUrJcC3MLXpOadRVrGMrGPt8bffx_e9ZQ95KozshOUvBPTng/s1600/bx03.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An anthropomorphic log. <br />
Cuma was a master at turning natural flaws into parts of his sculptures' facial anatomies. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTZXo6RJmcSDKDw_gaQQUhLymYj7EsgLCZnW998ngJUCIOCXgqA3VJcLlxw9RkOSzv6phMC0R79I_yZ6y5HtF4Ie22xfaAAVaary9YpjgcRju3kzDugTfI4OLaJ1Jrbt0DOXhzMtVfRo/s1600/bx04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTZXo6RJmcSDKDw_gaQQUhLymYj7EsgLCZnW998ngJUCIOCXgqA3VJcLlxw9RkOSzv6phMC0R79I_yZ6y5HtF4Ie22xfaAAVaary9YpjgcRju3kzDugTfI4OLaJ1Jrbt0DOXhzMtVfRo/s1600/bx04.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Sleeping beauty." Cuma said that "one woman" kept reappearing in most of his sculptures.<br />
This phenomenon is common in many male artists - indeed, it might be the very purpose some of us venture on our artistic journeys.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPxvkcVytYVkR_lP9Ghdkhali1Cp_QzC3m2NPVxbfXBF73ZTlqIWfaAo46Doe2g5Ioqy1POv_PMHTMlncvGBydldvwXfPieaNt0u9PWZZbqx2Pk-O-1dWjZ1JJcvJPeXuy7zI6J01xY5g/s1600/bx05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPxvkcVytYVkR_lP9Ghdkhali1Cp_QzC3m2NPVxbfXBF73ZTlqIWfaAo46Doe2g5Ioqy1POv_PMHTMlncvGBydldvwXfPieaNt0u9PWZZbqx2Pk-O-1dWjZ1JJcvJPeXuy7zI6J01xY5g/s1600/bx05.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humanoid figure with snails for tears.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4mCal1xQmusF6xeVk5F9FN73kzGtOaHwGAqhzLAIhqx1atLXlsBZYzKZ6_NNQKEBxibVyxIULrGyji5RYPmR3SkPupc16PxzWauK0eMF60U39LQ9IHdVCWwre7X0mwSRM8p3wl-YF0-c/s1600/bx06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4mCal1xQmusF6xeVk5F9FN73kzGtOaHwGAqhzLAIhqx1atLXlsBZYzKZ6_NNQKEBxibVyxIULrGyji5RYPmR3SkPupc16PxzWauK0eMF60U39LQ9IHdVCWwre7X0mwSRM8p3wl-YF0-c/s1600/bx06.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A dark, human-faced log.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjhFdCN99Cgp57LEDmDBeg14-48KjEhA99fAap_Oao-U4vCifu-xP0k79-uwn_w-ELS2w7IJOvpx20oz9elmK6QylKZwzBh7o2YoIvPciKA3tb5UB0NVJanIgVY13JAfSACLpjZCBks0/s1600/bx07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjhFdCN99Cgp57LEDmDBeg14-48KjEhA99fAap_Oao-U4vCifu-xP0k79-uwn_w-ELS2w7IJOvpx20oz9elmK6QylKZwzBh7o2YoIvPciKA3tb5UB0NVJanIgVY13JAfSACLpjZCBks0/s1600/bx07.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humanoid sculpture made out of painted concrete. <br />
This statue resembled a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurgan_stelae" target="_blank">balbal </a>made by ancient Turkic people.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigihHVi_Xi-e84u57RZQqPbvSUdsjpIgFQgmpE3tCUEifgCCyadt9BO33rkkraAa9Y29zwhcpuramSMVZCCeR3c7CfU6Uwh3JdklxIExQL_ywCmohbLOoLUxhuW0S9UmUpZLW4z_z0TwU/s1600/bx08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigihHVi_Xi-e84u57RZQqPbvSUdsjpIgFQgmpE3tCUEifgCCyadt9BO33rkkraAa9Y29zwhcpuramSMVZCCeR3c7CfU6Uwh3JdklxIExQL_ywCmohbLOoLUxhuW0S9UmUpZLW4z_z0TwU/s1600/bx08.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feminine form with slitted eyes. One of my favourite pieces.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0otDU-eUuyz3aqpzE0EkoqFyP7Qh_LhzJ9ry68SFSPJ2FhMOlCe2cqSQ8ODyoJrw0tJf7jEGKO69PWW671uL_nMGZD13p8AArNmmR5wYvMZgBQ9rG3ON9-N1AOEjzv7NH1d85fn1MOpk/s1600/bx09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0otDU-eUuyz3aqpzE0EkoqFyP7Qh_LhzJ9ry68SFSPJ2FhMOlCe2cqSQ8ODyoJrw0tJf7jEGKO69PWW671uL_nMGZD13p8AArNmmR5wYvMZgBQ9rG3ON9-N1AOEjzv7NH1d85fn1MOpk/s1600/bx09.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A melancholic figure.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUclhl-TdOs0Ra2Uvx4xYwj1F6m3X8urRuI6l63ecDEoO0Com9t_kLUA0x_OU9LefMjeOAGQ1c4mLiHWA-QCkXlTe7Xh8crQPh9diBfm8HYzDFTxFS6X5xi0DwT9bnhCPdx5J-hZGPHY/s1600/bx10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUclhl-TdOs0Ra2Uvx4xYwj1F6m3X8urRuI6l63ecDEoO0Com9t_kLUA0x_OU9LefMjeOAGQ1c4mLiHWA-QCkXlTe7Xh8crQPh9diBfm8HYzDFTxFS6X5xi0DwT9bnhCPdx5J-hZGPHY/s1600/bx10.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sculpture made out of a cracked log - two faces or one?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJliErR8ChPlWsW0sZ_QgeF8SEc8TRfbb1FFgF8q5VtmTTp3KLRYPZduOh_WwY5u3BQE03M8QQ1IA7FgKdmAJWu7WDuNXp2QoNK28QcRkcN3r72z_ou-ysk-ab90M_UlVe1fRAByGwcqY/s1600/bx11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJliErR8ChPlWsW0sZ_QgeF8SEc8TRfbb1FFgF8q5VtmTTp3KLRYPZduOh_WwY5u3BQE03M8QQ1IA7FgKdmAJWu7WDuNXp2QoNK28QcRkcN3r72z_ou-ysk-ab90M_UlVe1fRAByGwcqY/s1600/bx11.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A resting snail added character to this sculpture.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorI6rss5VkVWd_WER73WWQsikqEi-eZk1taHjCjsP2AaKPIZScLHSImaNLjQ0l27gXX6mMM_VaEuH5yxIL7dfwq1uNUmmaeAFN077U3HWbx9juWiJAa84RPZ__9U4VahLR1Dqfl-0tc4/s1600/bx12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorI6rss5VkVWd_WER73WWQsikqEi-eZk1taHjCjsP2AaKPIZScLHSImaNLjQ0l27gXX6mMM_VaEuH5yxIL7dfwq1uNUmmaeAFN077U3HWbx9juWiJAa84RPZ__9U4VahLR1Dqfl-0tc4/s1600/bx12.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A general view from Cuma's sculpture garden.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5b6wjf2qL4nfa2SfMctO9wGd7IeSccX5CvkCB9G8O082xf86pP6ooEq9XM1OGImM7BdLuck808bddm55JBVQvOLafcCoggermyVM3Y_9CtG9zErH_Rejiv4CL2HMwgfaFl7Hxw-BiXY/s1600/bx13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5b6wjf2qL4nfa2SfMctO9wGd7IeSccX5CvkCB9G8O082xf86pP6ooEq9XM1OGImM7BdLuck808bddm55JBVQvOLafcCoggermyVM3Y_9CtG9zErH_Rejiv4CL2HMwgfaFl7Hxw-BiXY/s1600/bx13.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A concrete bust with a strange, talisman-like nose. <br />
This statue reminded me of one of <a href="http://www.eldritchdark.com/galleries/by-cas/all/a/1" target="_blank">Clark Ashton Smith's arcane sculptures</a>.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEthDffGU5s_TeW40wswNVI8tVaYE3wcbKOyMEHEyxTxgfLA7DUeR4vZudeSUsauUgK5qs27HlX7uWD2tI4WIAXU6vYeQghk1G_wxa2_1tKwd6d9lYPT05xJPCS8mWgi7NFPgdeVIayU0/s1600/bx14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEthDffGU5s_TeW40wswNVI8tVaYE3wcbKOyMEHEyxTxgfLA7DUeR4vZudeSUsauUgK5qs27HlX7uWD2tI4WIAXU6vYeQghk1G_wxa2_1tKwd6d9lYPT05xJPCS8mWgi7NFPgdeVIayU0/s1600/bx14.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red sphinx with splayed, lizard-like feet. <br />
The "one woman" is definitely making another appearance here.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4JG5P1hzV-AYS-Ywf0gmayOfRIdrqdwsJtj368Qo7mdcoBUG0xl_896cj9u6rF-kadoqGJBY12bkTzY0YMEZIfa_ATNpbn__yApIIoepgq58WFMt-9ZbiuXLgHeiaLdo2Wnax8PvspU/s1600/bx15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4JG5P1hzV-AYS-Ywf0gmayOfRIdrqdwsJtj368Qo7mdcoBUG0xl_896cj9u6rF-kadoqGJBY12bkTzY0YMEZIfa_ATNpbn__yApIIoepgq58WFMt-9ZbiuXLgHeiaLdo2Wnax8PvspU/s1600/bx15.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A more maternal woman's face, caved out of lightweight pumice.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbp6Tqwou1HtUEofdMQJvUdGIGc0zJPTJvxrCYWyMe0ksQE1NUoYgMv4PyOJmS5_ycO1ajQtZhLV8iJ2AxyFcQreiaSVQpq3LzJjnkLNKVIVSftSh1PpoSl0ftg_vw-SR7MpSLLPd09zU/s1600/bx16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbp6Tqwou1HtUEofdMQJvUdGIGc0zJPTJvxrCYWyMe0ksQE1NUoYgMv4PyOJmS5_ycO1ajQtZhLV8iJ2AxyFcQreiaSVQpq3LzJjnkLNKVIVSftSh1PpoSl0ftg_vw-SR7MpSLLPd09zU/s1600/bx16.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A dazzling red serpent-dog-man-<i>thing </i>rose out of the ground a few feet away like one of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Ernst" target="_blank">Max Ernst's</a> visions come alive.<br />
This was one of Cuma's most subliminal sculptures.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUl4mas7gDTmWC1XMn4t_brRBerMZrtBN1riqPEIN4IHCIb8JMiKna-zA4wAG8OX0TAF6SdIGicQU2AKlvcr0I6UJF2tUzUK0HoOpM1LkI0Cw9RvWdwUH5GFHbjR6fhIxqDWyg6-LwNxQ/s1600/bx17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUl4mas7gDTmWC1XMn4t_brRBerMZrtBN1riqPEIN4IHCIb8JMiKna-zA4wAG8OX0TAF6SdIGicQU2AKlvcr0I6UJF2tUzUK0HoOpM1LkI0Cw9RvWdwUH5GFHbjR6fhIxqDWyg6-LwNxQ/s1600/bx17.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two restful figures.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5yt9MUgE0DLU1ltWsSOZw0tezqObXhZmw9iy6umoLShgqGYlaBwRIy3V_sMe7w7iE-oxjhyphenhyphen6ChzqXS1OH_SFUcABF3fG07Ks_BFjgeTZ9rR5yatR5U9yk6y8JJ6NK6U6poqKtFgw1kw/s1600/bx18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5yt9MUgE0DLU1ltWsSOZw0tezqObXhZmw9iy6umoLShgqGYlaBwRIy3V_sMe7w7iE-oxjhyphenhyphen6ChzqXS1OH_SFUcABF3fG07Ks_BFjgeTZ9rR5yatR5U9yk6y8JJ6NK6U6poqKtFgw1kw/s1600/bx18.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Among the humanoid forms, this weird thing stood out in looking more like a bird or a fish.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4FoSmHiJ0nYk1NPTeCONqQnZI_X9dqzAPfrkI8s1g6ohd88l94F8368vEXn4TU13j7GaiWaTE2au5R07csjroDmv9el1dn96OB9wBub3-WvMBvtmW-Ns49XPOkUYrFVYj8PD2QgSwZTw/s1600/bx19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4FoSmHiJ0nYk1NPTeCONqQnZI_X9dqzAPfrkI8s1g6ohd88l94F8368vEXn4TU13j7GaiWaTE2au5R07csjroDmv9el1dn96OB9wBub3-WvMBvtmW-Ns49XPOkUYrFVYj8PD2QgSwZTw/s1600/bx19.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Black head," made out of painted concrete.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6x7zFYNhxZRvaYHkLfa1wtgFXSRKZD7shyphenhyphenOkjjX0DYgcgbx8Q13QAfFljj4uXoWuU8g2oDif2ooC__TZUCG-eWMkXjVBKpHjJYcRPRvDYDVEFcrlsmxnLaz5ldSOxbbatEcYLCsH0nVw/s1600/bx20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6x7zFYNhxZRvaYHkLfa1wtgFXSRKZD7shyphenhyphenOkjjX0DYgcgbx8Q13QAfFljj4uXoWuU8g2oDif2ooC__TZUCG-eWMkXjVBKpHjJYcRPRvDYDVEFcrlsmxnLaz5ldSOxbbatEcYLCsH0nVw/s1600/bx20.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another detail from Cuma's sculpture garden. The karstic hills of Bodrum peninsula loom in the background.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5Hp9_47OaFy4GSoIKzVCgd1ySP7FEZke_zezT33rKsRV5elYzkkl6ICzZ-OGWdhf99xtNqtt6moAwz-yuW5j9QbgmeJ0TFtwtNHAiwpt0Y6ORcqc3860uGmYsxFWrr348yBmX0IuQh4/s1600/bx21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5Hp9_47OaFy4GSoIKzVCgd1ySP7FEZke_zezT33rKsRV5elYzkkl6ICzZ-OGWdhf99xtNqtt6moAwz-yuW5j9QbgmeJ0TFtwtNHAiwpt0Y6ORcqc3860uGmYsxFWrr348yBmX0IuQh4/s1600/bx21.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two feminine companions.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZ2uvkmRmTxgpcIPYIISr9Bw7G-286c4GRfaeu_3hX8_3tUGLDDVHfW088Y81HLky6jQeKGGAOBK_JeQGW6-0AfVtFeF_erp4IaMVp6CcmxVve4bMHVnvrkxLEc_2DwfhnAt_xWeS_dE/s1600/bx22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZ2uvkmRmTxgpcIPYIISr9Bw7G-286c4GRfaeu_3hX8_3tUGLDDVHfW088Y81HLky6jQeKGGAOBK_JeQGW6-0AfVtFeF_erp4IaMVp6CcmxVve4bMHVnvrkxLEc_2DwfhnAt_xWeS_dE/s1600/bx22.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A goddess-like figure with "horns" fashioned from the branches of the tree it was carved from.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ktG69iDk4tePO5bQibGlpSGb3dIvYff4fQV6OUqWMT7qT3y14zJ-cfGQYbSbSSbpdC3xaevvU8ha1-v14cEkuH-5VO27UuN0l8y8m3V1Y7s60A18riMEsdFwAudW9FLfUkoa2yQq6sw/s1600/bx23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ktG69iDk4tePO5bQibGlpSGb3dIvYff4fQV6OUqWMT7qT3y14zJ-cfGQYbSbSSbpdC3xaevvU8ha1-v14cEkuH-5VO27UuN0l8y8m3V1Y7s60A18riMEsdFwAudW9FLfUkoa2yQq6sw/s1600/bx23.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goggle-eyed figure among hemlock plants.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h4ok706rQrZcl05bGHiXrEnuSnSIUT0xqWSwy2Wr0i-YnMYrgDdDyf98FyEOSau70IFOVivPF4-KmgvT7F9ORug2O4xy0zDx2C9dYyEpCjVT0M_1pUMb1dNfT6f12_oxCAOI0NT5Xak/s1600/bx24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h4ok706rQrZcl05bGHiXrEnuSnSIUT0xqWSwy2Wr0i-YnMYrgDdDyf98FyEOSau70IFOVivPF4-KmgvT7F9ORug2O4xy0zDx2C9dYyEpCjVT0M_1pUMb1dNfT6f12_oxCAOI0NT5Xak/s1600/bx24.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another red sphinx, with splayed, sucker-like feet. <br />
Once more, it is a haunting representation of Cuma's lost lover.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzB2bJ4YspsrLwlEnaVidFV1nFeMFFh-isMuQyyrC4c0MrCx3WBW9kGpWXn7yFXWDSEf4kDEtx0PDSoHG7qKqDi0rWCLjP_1VKYzZueAu-kp_UKRVkGw0A3xBnHxzrq9e_iTxYBsiPWI/s1600/bx25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzB2bJ4YspsrLwlEnaVidFV1nFeMFFh-isMuQyyrC4c0MrCx3WBW9kGpWXn7yFXWDSEf4kDEtx0PDSoHG7qKqDi0rWCLjP_1VKYzZueAu-kp_UKRVkGw0A3xBnHxzrq9e_iTxYBsiPWI/s1600/bx25.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This statue was distinct from all others in featuring a representation of the ancient Mesopotamian "winged sun" pattern, as well as unknown text set in cuneiform characters. In the present day, Kurdish nationalists sometimes claim direct descent from ancient Mesopotamian civilisations, using this purported origin as a rationale to refuse the religious and national hegemony of the states in the region. It would be all-too-understandable if Cuma, a Kurdish sculptor persecuted for religious and ethnic reasons in the past, harboured such sentiments as well.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyf27_ddDrRZQ-83g8PCiI86e5JVsd4KSu9wLVoNGFnyvGN_FzcVFK116M4CaS2RzFaMSe1r6RYjU-LcjfPghBgl7VIFVxQUeNmlq0IzjLzt5mdfzPL_iv0trT7WK46BellVyNwkk9O7s/s1600/bx26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyf27_ddDrRZQ-83g8PCiI86e5JVsd4KSu9wLVoNGFnyvGN_FzcVFK116M4CaS2RzFaMSe1r6RYjU-LcjfPghBgl7VIFVxQUeNmlq0IzjLzt5mdfzPL_iv0trT7WK46BellVyNwkk9O7s/s1600/bx26.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A magnificent dragon with three horns.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRfPksc8hUJnQC2TFsxYAZXzCLXlzbuV3IcKNEBbyvYWdG5e3E8RRc-axp3zmbYDaKlQVDRQR95krajd4I-mL7ogcrTOvnUIBKeTuEbXNxia2ByM7dzxsbnkwsgZWs8JZcl90Xzyt3Jg/s1600/bx27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRfPksc8hUJnQC2TFsxYAZXzCLXlzbuV3IcKNEBbyvYWdG5e3E8RRc-axp3zmbYDaKlQVDRQR95krajd4I-mL7ogcrTOvnUIBKeTuEbXNxia2ByM7dzxsbnkwsgZWs8JZcl90Xzyt3Jg/s1600/bx27.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A general view from Cuma's garden.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiloh_TcIRZfcwfRMfErErkADSX1RzGnpaIBHltCtPNEt-9X7l_KotILYTcZtWsZHC_FdXdQjjF1rwkq_uc9pZo7yVfuaCaZCF7ytE1xrCkVAwHgBYmreW3eSs_VNp_WlvIWvsIiASEnE/s1600/bx28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiloh_TcIRZfcwfRMfErErkADSX1RzGnpaIBHltCtPNEt-9X7l_KotILYTcZtWsZHC_FdXdQjjF1rwkq_uc9pZo7yVfuaCaZCF7ytE1xrCkVAwHgBYmreW3eSs_VNp_WlvIWvsIiASEnE/s1600/bx28.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A dinosaur-dragon thing with wings and tentacle-like fingers - one of Cuma's most distinctive visions.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbG-iImx_ybtLmfjEV1MuUw1ydgjrZ-pgfpfpnW1yUY-Uis-_FTnYqJHEAMVZGii2S7mLL1uJms5C8AgiyZJXVnVMkXvS6U4TTLIyHxprhOYqLPdyUcrs6BJoKNfJmFTo3L2ePhJ0GcVA/s1600/bx29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbG-iImx_ybtLmfjEV1MuUw1ydgjrZ-pgfpfpnW1yUY-Uis-_FTnYqJHEAMVZGii2S7mLL1uJms5C8AgiyZJXVnVMkXvS6U4TTLIyHxprhOYqLPdyUcrs6BJoKNfJmFTo3L2ePhJ0GcVA/s1600/bx29.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A gnarly dragon with knobby horns. It reminded me strangely of the prehistoric reptile-mammal known as <i><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/64/Estemmenosuchus_Tyrrell.jpg/1280px-Estemmenosuchus_Tyrrell.jpg" target="_blank">Estemmenosuchus</a></i>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigUH7TE4uAlGwt1XpgrIS3TnolgnSLsTZU3UUQfZzf3qcyD2_4mqKHech0mlXQw9ADeO3eGMho_awF8FyKf_kwvrGk3UQOiNQ1Vem0ukKtH-TtFVSuNK7UyZlhWp3YrW0Mu-qkg8dazyI/s1600/bx30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigUH7TE4uAlGwt1XpgrIS3TnolgnSLsTZU3UUQfZzf3qcyD2_4mqKHech0mlXQw9ADeO3eGMho_awF8FyKf_kwvrGk3UQOiNQ1Vem0ukKtH-TtFVSuNK7UyZlhWp3YrW0Mu-qkg8dazyI/s1600/bx30.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuma used the natural curve of this pine branch to make his sculpture appear as if it was dancing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCMs5nZrr-V_sDCNm2VQ5bl-XMCEaJ98k8QSy4nU-pD1AYzMR6LcXSdHatLx_tZP5YJXcyovEGl_aaMO_jdiiXsVxC53X4AWe_dyN41zevomdXRxZcMKyZiKvAf1RQP22NoXcDgncSEc4/s1600/bx31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCMs5nZrr-V_sDCNm2VQ5bl-XMCEaJ98k8QSy4nU-pD1AYzMR6LcXSdHatLx_tZP5YJXcyovEGl_aaMO_jdiiXsVxC53X4AWe_dyN41zevomdXRxZcMKyZiKvAf1RQP22NoXcDgncSEc4/s1600/bx31.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eerie-looking demon figure with horns emerging from its cloven head.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPCVusVeq3JjghS2TjPSsGhWH2LnzGHEoRTzsc-TVFhEQ8TNsCqB1QciRLFf9u3X1N86Pi8KW9m7X9tv2tjWTyzy1zRB8XgPC4rm7vgw1Se9ryZDuPWKRmWbyKpsK3jTCThNCYdy-n990/s1600/bx32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPCVusVeq3JjghS2TjPSsGhWH2LnzGHEoRTzsc-TVFhEQ8TNsCqB1QciRLFf9u3X1N86Pi8KW9m7X9tv2tjWTyzy1zRB8XgPC4rm7vgw1Se9ryZDuPWKRmWbyKpsK3jTCThNCYdy-n990/s1600/bx32.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of Cuma's feminine mystiques again.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hlTFj0sIjjQlPXEGzHqJblOa5sss6cDwYQDAJzjR75ID1JdV0L3msRERXMIoIfu011LKoKr9tHpKYbLKi49uFpsw2jxxyFszFuu18JXsu_OZB6UnY7d3DtsHlJ0XxTQ9HdtiOlDPZnI/s1600/bx33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hlTFj0sIjjQlPXEGzHqJblOa5sss6cDwYQDAJzjR75ID1JdV0L3msRERXMIoIfu011LKoKr9tHpKYbLKi49uFpsw2jxxyFszFuu18JXsu_OZB6UnY7d3DtsHlJ0XxTQ9HdtiOlDPZnI/s1600/bx33.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another woman, painted an intense red with a round, moon-like face.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRo8qiihoV_G69SrpC1yQixZnD0DCsqeQ70buP9m1oOMEfIewK-wGxV5AvMTRwhuLeYR54YFhFrGOXAjD5nFijNi55fCIkzAB42QI9-_1eBFqcUKMvqBMH9uYaw_CojdyXVcHtHsyXR3w/s1600/bx34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRo8qiihoV_G69SrpC1yQixZnD0DCsqeQ70buP9m1oOMEfIewK-wGxV5AvMTRwhuLeYR54YFhFrGOXAjD5nFijNi55fCIkzAB42QI9-_1eBFqcUKMvqBMH9uYaw_CojdyXVcHtHsyXR3w/s1600/bx34.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a particularly cute female form, sculpted out of a rectangular lump of concrete.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0-Ct9xI7Gn0lFocukDTn_x6fFWPsjBwMwjAWhwkc1t1VhG79Mz8s0yJ3ISPELCa8Z2KyW_f225oxipLIrbPvm3TJkgBbtSYvKCg2nDxwhiYc5VVSGbN0u8RNlrmXjeXyPgytsNQHSLM/s1600/bx35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0-Ct9xI7Gn0lFocukDTn_x6fFWPsjBwMwjAWhwkc1t1VhG79Mz8s0yJ3ISPELCa8Z2KyW_f225oxipLIrbPvm3TJkgBbtSYvKCg2nDxwhiYc5VVSGbN0u8RNlrmXjeXyPgytsNQHSLM/s1600/bx35.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The hand of god," sculpted out of a dead olive tree, sat by the roadside and beckoned travellers to Cuma's sculpture garden.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0iZpHNyx8cKpgIzfaPl3ZIOcuC_HnJFeoHV0WULT0XJ27uMmbI0VUavH_vWeE1xuTGWg-ihX0fVl7Vwqf4Zdg4Rx7waxmurPlVVn05P-ipj5VpV4m9DUTyTGKN95ynlaDrc-NQ9f2AUY/s1600/bx36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0iZpHNyx8cKpgIzfaPl3ZIOcuC_HnJFeoHV0WULT0XJ27uMmbI0VUavH_vWeE1xuTGWg-ihX0fVl7Vwqf4Zdg4Rx7waxmurPlVVn05P-ipj5VpV4m9DUTyTGKN95ynlaDrc-NQ9f2AUY/s1600/bx36.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olive-bark sculpture with cryptic scratches.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmIoRO02Esg-O1y7QJa4AF_FASxwlv2OBijYj65MhW-ZHia-wpyBAoQPK2tk6kjCo3tkqto62sUq-YpjPNQEJF2bBTwsyF6jB4wMbo7Xe2BC4E0KiT06oZkMe8s7-ZYb72JcKkeVOnV68/s1600/bx37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmIoRO02Esg-O1y7QJa4AF_FASxwlv2OBijYj65MhW-ZHia-wpyBAoQPK2tk6kjCo3tkqto62sUq-YpjPNQEJF2bBTwsyF6jB4wMbo7Xe2BC4E0KiT06oZkMe8s7-ZYb72JcKkeVOnV68/s1600/bx37.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pale, lanky dragon.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQOPGAfvenqthOC6ZcF4KnNiJU779Ep-A1c9jI3ilkRItGjIQ6nzaLna-JnLhapIFRnduB6nqAMMfIerrv23ZbSQlfqBXAWzRW-Oz5zNWGB_XFvfGU5pFeZnRvMk6hMBTXfGm3idjpvY/s1600/bx38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQOPGAfvenqthOC6ZcF4KnNiJU779Ep-A1c9jI3ilkRItGjIQ6nzaLna-JnLhapIFRnduB6nqAMMfIerrv23ZbSQlfqBXAWzRW-Oz5zNWGB_XFvfGU5pFeZnRvMk6hMBTXfGm3idjpvY/s1600/bx38.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A red queen sat imposingly among dozens of strange, elongated monsters.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVh565TmoVhvMA00K61ta-Qc4mccZm4rQwdEg-6V5rmh3UpcvdU9oC8imlxJskUtiatXDwvDvpURwr5QskGfn0dJDsrTkgExPX-BJObXEZZ_ILqO08z-iOpBWCmQsO3KQfSpw1jCIBKQ/s1600/bx39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVh565TmoVhvMA00K61ta-Qc4mccZm4rQwdEg-6V5rmh3UpcvdU9oC8imlxJskUtiatXDwvDvpURwr5QskGfn0dJDsrTkgExPX-BJObXEZZ_ILqO08z-iOpBWCmQsO3KQfSpw1jCIBKQ/s1600/bx39.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sweet woman with a red, lanky reptilian companion.<br />
The dragon was also female, as evident from its long, pendulous breasts.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0G1Zcw3I5Xswsmbu7Vmwl2QJvlrab420CCVSkDdLd7xjWjW6IzPySaz3d4mSLnygD9mdE0gjx0YKX8qJUbxnYbsjs4hWPV-BcTDqYLQ7qE1_OUZvcPJwCCTdiAqCasbF3_u261ndH-U/s1600/bx40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0G1Zcw3I5Xswsmbu7Vmwl2QJvlrab420CCVSkDdLd7xjWjW6IzPySaz3d4mSLnygD9mdE0gjx0YKX8qJUbxnYbsjs4hWPV-BcTDqYLQ7qE1_OUZvcPJwCCTdiAqCasbF3_u261ndH-U/s1600/bx40.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pale, elongated statue in the corner of Cuma's garden. A road sign on the background, announcing that <i>"the nation comes first,"</i> reminds that the shibboleth of nationalism is never too far off in Turkey.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmNnYni9p6eU038K-A5Nqlm1NP7lj2Rwq-VsMXz2DfOWhKA4KOqE96NTeEvaqSoqbdlNb8aTK8gMvje8jCL7GHLpb7-XK963loi5Q2JI7Zs7SNDlhTyQw_dgX_EgWdmKnCga3gyejD1w/s1600/bx41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmNnYni9p6eU038K-A5Nqlm1NP7lj2Rwq-VsMXz2DfOWhKA4KOqE96NTeEvaqSoqbdlNb8aTK8gMvje8jCL7GHLpb7-XK963loi5Q2JI7Zs7SNDlhTyQw_dgX_EgWdmKnCga3gyejD1w/s1600/bx41.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuma also made dozens of smaller sculptures. This was a weird trio of a pumice bust, a dog-cat-thing with multiple bodies, and something like a snake with two heads.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pzFQLilUVKr9o4Pln663GkXwjo_HT5t5fmNaDCW7QqgqdzHYCDG2TDKfC1xYHbAe3BnnLbK8TOQovrmn3ra9MSHS5XfvQEchT4PkKjvdZEWNwDmEb3iACS68tgpQeWbhG1-4IDvb5zg/s1600/bx42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pzFQLilUVKr9o4Pln663GkXwjo_HT5t5fmNaDCW7QqgqdzHYCDG2TDKfC1xYHbAe3BnnLbK8TOQovrmn3ra9MSHS5XfvQEchT4PkKjvdZEWNwDmEb3iACS68tgpQeWbhG1-4IDvb5zg/s1600/bx42.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another strange animal with six legs and a branching tail that resembles a plant.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OekOe6L3LYHdVfEf-j6CbCcWM7Yct5dcZFgpZ_muFjIp5ENaSgr5XGk1EfpTirtnW1fMrdaQYFIJCwfTSpGNHGwWUByteBG9kY3xxJmrOY-uZ4Vwg6cLFeGY9vS3zXKTH8BlQh5q9F8/s1600/bx43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OekOe6L3LYHdVfEf-j6CbCcWM7Yct5dcZFgpZ_muFjIp5ENaSgr5XGk1EfpTirtnW1fMrdaQYFIJCwfTSpGNHGwWUByteBG9kY3xxJmrOY-uZ4Vwg6cLFeGY9vS3zXKTH8BlQh5q9F8/s1600/bx43.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A "crawling man," one of the cutest forms in the garden.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqigV6Em9BmLV3BVd-f3aOzNfWkSVUq2Xhn-8ziHm1G3NJLMpwCT51rnMfABK9L7Qr24HFAHmfMjKOyz59z9ScF5spFSmMgyI92AEGQztDvF4HbYtygtXqpl1G0Niz2YRXSn8MJTi1gjw/s1600/bx44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqigV6Em9BmLV3BVd-f3aOzNfWkSVUq2Xhn-8ziHm1G3NJLMpwCT51rnMfABK9L7Qr24HFAHmfMjKOyz59z9ScF5spFSmMgyI92AEGQztDvF4HbYtygtXqpl1G0Niz2YRXSn8MJTi1gjw/s1600/bx44.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two more "crawling men," or "cats" as Cuma called them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ZOpYOIOdGqFWr8i1siO-N7D0uhGYY5nOzzx-HV44HktDJ2ISlOtMPET2iXUqomQszvud32yQsMRp7-7RRIS8S_DlBm4x5z3bmejaGT4x1u-qussWB1U1q3wPbBG9-HUrvpQPPyhT_0A/s1600/bx45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ZOpYOIOdGqFWr8i1siO-N7D0uhGYY5nOzzx-HV44HktDJ2ISlOtMPET2iXUqomQszvud32yQsMRp7-7RRIS8S_DlBm4x5z3bmejaGT4x1u-qussWB1U1q3wPbBG9-HUrvpQPPyhT_0A/s1600/bx45.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An arcane dragon figure with ribs? Even more proto-statues made by Cuma: cut-down trees embedded upside-down into the ground, loom in the background.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsOsWG6ySylj10WHF_Eln_cC9B0jqyLc0kqzqjjx1RnbA5JsP3JlDzOkpeqyLu92YhVfA461WYp5hlx0myqv3n47TMEvYWWdqnBJT9Tg1NW9_4YmU-5U0FSm2SGeAn37fojeZAjbV8CQ/s1600/bx46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsOsWG6ySylj10WHF_Eln_cC9B0jqyLc0kqzqjjx1RnbA5JsP3JlDzOkpeqyLu92YhVfA461WYp5hlx0myqv3n47TMEvYWWdqnBJT9Tg1NW9_4YmU-5U0FSm2SGeAn37fojeZAjbV8CQ/s1600/bx46.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Finally, this was the makeshift verandah that Cuma used to entertain his visitors. Coming from a city where "artists" use every excuse to pursue arrogant and "glamorous" lives, this was one of the nobler details about Cuma's outsider wonderland. <b>This was a guy who created simply for the joy and lust of creating. </b>He did care for fame, status, wealth or a "proper life."<br />
<br />
This austere lifestyle gave him even more free time to refine his art. Cuma was a better artist than most of the talentless, conceptual hacks and peevish emulators plying their trade in Istanbul and elsewhere in Turkey.<br />
<br />
I really admired Cuma's austere lifestyle and surreal creations. The phenomenon of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outsider_art" target="_blank">outsider art</a> remains woefully understudied in modern Turkey. Who knows what other geniuses and untold masterpieces are hiding in the mountain villages, the favelas, towns and other neglected corners of this bizarre country?<br />
<br />
<b>UPDATE - 2018:</b><br />
Both Bodrum and Cuma's life have changed considerably since I wrote this essay. Bodrum, already a burgeoning part of Turkey, has now become a veritable suburb of Istanbul. Cuma was evicted from the site I first met him in, and has moved to the artsy Gümüşlük bay on the seaside; joining a community of film stars, intellectuals and other artists. He now documents his life and sells his works through the<b> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Heykel-Tarlas%C4%B1-715419645196343/" target="_blank">"Heykel Tarlası" - Field of Sculptures page on Facebook</a>.</b><br />
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<b><a href="http://www.cmkosemen.com/">www.cmkosemen.com</a></b></div>
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C. M. Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10025522023760918012noreply@blogger.com1